18k not good for prongs?

[mugatu300]

Hello, I am speaking a local jeweler friend about making a 6 prong solitaire setting for my diamond. Now, my girlfriend is of Asian descent and 18k white gold minimally is the standard in their culture. The jeweler did not recommend 18k for the prongs tho because he said it has no give and that 18k prongs could be susceptible to shearing off. Instead he recommended 14k or platinum for the prongs and then said I could go with 18k for the band/shank. Is this accurate advice?

Also, if I decide to go with platinum prongs, is that OK to mix a white gold shank and platinum head? Not sure how that would work in the future with rhodium re-plating and such...

 

[emmy12]

If you go white gold shank + platinum head you may run the risk of that being interpreted by gossipy family members as being "too cheap to make the whole thing in platinum".

 

[Karl_K]

Yes, no, maybe so, it depends.
The one time the standard 18k high nickel white gold was known for being brittle, which is the last thing you want for prongs.
However modern 18k white alloys are not as brittle so its less of an issue.
A plat head with an 18k shank is very common and in the days of high nickel 18k white gold badly needed.
These days it is still a good when the design supports its.
It is impossible in many designs and they are made all in 18k and have far less issues than in the past.
All that said the better plat alloys are the better prong material, just not by as wide a margin as it used to be.
If the design does not support it I would be fine with a modern 18k white gold alloy.

Re-plating mixed 18k white/plat rings is not a problem.

 

[mugatu300]

Yes, no, maybe so, it depends.
The one time the standard 18k high nickel white gold was known for being brittle, which is the last thing you want for prongs.
However modern 18k white alloys are not as brittle so its less of an issue.
A plat head with an 18k shank is very common and in the days of high nickel 18k white gold badly needed.
These days it is still a good when the design supports its.
It is impossible in many designs and they are made all in 18k and have far less issues than in the past.
All that said the better plat alloys are the better prong material, just not by as wide a margin as it used to be.
If the design does not support it I would be fine with a modern 18k white gold alloy.

Re-plating mixed 18k white/plat rings is not a problem.

Will that look weird if I mix 18k band with platinum head? Aren't they not the same tone? And what about when band has to be re-rhodium? Do you have to tape off the platinum head to make sure it isnt plated accidently?

 

[Karl_K]

Will that look weird if I mix 18k band with platinum head? Aren't they not the same tone? And what about when band has to be re-rhodium? Do you have to tape off the platinum head to make sure it isnt plated accidently?

Both the plat and wg are plated
once plated they look the same because you see the plating.
They are plated once they are together.

 

[mugatu300]

Both the plat and wg are plated
once plated they look the same because you see the plating.
They are plated once they are together.

Do you dont need to mask of the platinum for future re-rhodiums as part of the maintenance? It gets re-rhodiumed too?

 

[Karl_K]

Do you dont need to mask of the platinum for future re-rhodiums as part of the maintenance? It gets re-rhodiumed too?

The entire ring gets replated, no need to mask anything.

 

[ringo865]

Or get the whole thing in platinum then never plate it

 

[mugatu300]

Or get the whole thing in platinum then never plate it

I've heard that platinum scratches easily and can have a dull appearance tho. I think she prefers that shiny white look

 

[Wink]

The prongs are much smaller than the shank and small scratches are no where near as attention getting as a well cut diamond sparkling away. Larger scratches, as well as the small, are easily polished for the bright shiny look she will prefer. You should have your prongs checked at least once every six months and the ring can be polished, and if desired, rhodium plated at that time.