Advice for custom princess setting?

[mark44]

Hi everyone,

I''m working with a local jeweller to design a custom engagement ring around a single 0.5 to 0.75 princess diamond. I want a "flat" style setting that won''t interfere with my girlfriend job and sports. Below is a setting similar to the one I''m considering (except mine will have a princess stone, not round). She wants a wider band, but I''m thinking that it shouldn''t be any wider than 4 or 5mm or it will be too bulky on her small hands. I don''t know what is considered narrow, average, wide, etc. Does anyone have any guidelines?

Also this style of setting means that the band has to be slightly wider than the stone to accommodate the channel. This is posing a problem because the stones in this size range are about 4.6mm to 4.9mm wide. Any suggestions on how to get a 4 or 5mm band that will work with this size princess??

Thanks alot everyone!

Mark

Here is the example setting ...

 

[sevens one]

Hey Mark,
This ring of QueenMum''s came to mind

It''s set with an asscher instead of a princess in rose gold.

here''s the link

 

[Ukieza]

The lowest setting you could get is a tension style setting. Suggestions for princess and keeping the size down. Taper the shank from top (where the stone is) to bottom. Leaving it 4.9mm wide near stone down to 2 or 3mm at the bottom which is under her finger (in her hand when she makes a fist). That would be the best. Some people don''t like too wide of a shank because it''s uncomfortable. Some like it and have no problem. That picture you gave looks just like what I''m talking about.. tapered bottom and tension set.. maybe semi-tension. As for width what is considered narrow, average, wide... it''s all in the eyes of the beholder. My narrow might be your wide.

Does she mind tension settings? Do you that what you get her, she''ll like or accept? Some girls really don''t like full tension settings. I found out that my fiance isn''t fond of too many styles and is actually quite picky when it comes to jeweler. Always fun to find out but hard to not give away the surprise. I rather get something she likes and ruin part of the surprise than give her something she''s going to hate.

 

[MissAva]

Is the 4-5mm including the wedding band...just a thought she will wear it as a set forever.

 

[michela002]

Date: 9/16/2005 2:02:26 PM
Author:mark44
I want a ''flat'' style setting that won''t interfere with my girlfriend job and sports.

Just a question - what does SHE want? As a girl, I think that''s far more important! Like Uzieka said, some girls don''t like tension settings (i.e. the one pictured) - personally I hate them! (But I promise that''s not swaying me here - I just make sure you''ve given it some thought.) I''m sure there are alternatives to a tension setting (that won''t interfere with job or sport) - e.g. perhaps a princess w/ a very thin bezel, set low (very low, or even into the band) and channel set princess cuts on the sides or something? Not wanting to be pushy at all, just couldn''t tell from your post how much of it was what you wanted and how much what she wants - she has to wear it. Like Ukieza said, better to spoil the surprise than have her not like it ... The good news is you have lots of options for something that won''t interfere with job/sports, so suss them out and figure out which she likes too. Good luck, I''m sure it''ll be beautiful!

 

[michela002]

E.g. something like this (@ whiteflash) but with princesses, is totally different but still works with your "not interfering with work/job" criteria. It is very low and flat.

Just wanted to let you know there are a ton of options.

And of course, if she loves tension settings then you''ve got it made

 

[valeria101]

Date: 9/16/2005 2:02:26 PM
Author:mark44


Also this style of setting means that the band has to be slightly wider than the stone to accommodate the channel.

It can be exactly as wide as the stone. IMO, up to 6-7 mm wide rings are still extremely wearable even on a small hand (like mine).

It could easily be a tension set ring (especially if you like Titanium) and Cartier's 'Tank' rings make a good example of such settings with sqyare stones. These rings appear heavy and simple in pictures, but I found them very flattering and extremely wearable in small sizes. The model is easy to make too.

Green Lake Jewelry has several version on display, including a wedding set. Take a look. Among their 'minimalist' rings I found these:

You may find related forms by Linda Penwarden... and basically, every designer who does bezel settings.

The picture below shows a Cartier ring with a 6mm stone (I think - it could have been a bit smaller, between 5.5 and 6mm).

 

[canuk-gal]

HI Mark:

In town, I''ve seen quite a few bezel and tension settings a J Vair Anderson, and I believe Hunter-Davidson in Bakers Hall (both shops are downtown) actually carries Neissing tension settings. You might want to check them out!! Good luck!

cheers--Sharon