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Advice re: parti sapphires

chaplin

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
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40
Hello all!

I'm posting here to gather advice on which stone I should choose for my engagement ring (my fiancé is letting me design it :love:). I've been researching sapphires for the last 2 weeks straight, and I've learned a lot, mostly from this website! But I am still a complete beginner, and feeling a bit nervous to take the plunge on any particular gem o_O I know enough to know that my priorities are as follows:

1. Color - I love teal/blue/greens, "peacock" sapphires, and parti sapphires of all types, especially the tricolor ones. I do not like pink/orange. Inclusions don't bother me as long as they don't affect the durability/structural soundness of the gem (as I will be wearing it all day every day) and I even think some heavily included gems look really cool.
2. Cut - I prefer emerald cut, because it's less common than round/oval, and because I'd prefer a lower profile gem in relation to the surface area.
3. Natural-ness - Heated sapphires definitely aren't a dealbreaker, but if I can find an all-natural one that is the color I want without treatment, it would be a plus.
4. Size - I'd like something over 1 carat, just so it has the surface area to show off colors & patterns, but as a daily-wear e-ring I don't want it to be huge (no more than 2.5ish carats).
5. Price - This is the lowest priority because although I'm not rich, I also anticipate this being the only piece of fine jewelry I ever design, so I want it to be as perfect as possible. I'm willing to spend up to $4k on my dream gem.

I was hoping some folks with more experience than I have could take a look at a couple of the gems I'm considering, and give me their opinions on cut, color, price, etc. I'm taking the weekend to think it over and hopefully decide by Monday. I've posted them in the order of my own affinity for them. And if anyone has personal experience with these sellers, please let me know. I've vetted them all thoroughly, but have found mixed feedback (as with most things).

1. Parti from Brume Jeroh (this gem has been listed several times, I saved the other photos posted of it here) - $1,000
2. Parti from John Dyer - $3,892
3. Interesting included gem from Earth's Treasury - $1,500
4. Peacock sapphire from Earth's Treasury - $3,600
5. Dark blue gem with cool inclusion from Earth's Treasury - $900

I also contacted this seller about a couple of gems in this post, but he hasn't gotten back to me, and I have mixed feelings about Madagascar-origin gems anyway (due to the ethical/environmental challenges in the mining practices there).

Are these fair prices? Are these good quality? Please don't be shy, and give me your honest opinions! And thanks in advance for lending me your expertise =)2
 
Hello all!

I'm posting here to gather advice on which stone I should choose for my engagement ring (my fiancé is letting me design it :love:). I've been researching sapphires for the last 2 weeks straight, and I've learned a lot, mostly from this website! But I am still a complete beginner, and feeling a bit nervous to take the plunge on any particular gem o_O I know enough to know that my priorities are as follows:

1. Color - I love teal/blue/greens, "peacock" sapphires, and parti sapphires of all types, especially the tricolor ones. I do not like pink/orange. Inclusions don't bother me as long as they don't affect the durability/structural soundness of the gem (as I will be wearing it all day every day) and I even think some heavily included gems look really cool.
2. Cut - I prefer emerald cut, because it's less common than round/oval, and because I'd prefer a lower profile gem in relation to the surface area.
3. Natural-ness - Heated sapphires definitely aren't a dealbreaker, but if I can find an all-natural one that is the color I want without treatment, it would be a plus.
4. Size - I'd like something over 1 carat, just so it has the surface area to show off colors & patterns, but as a daily-wear e-ring I don't want it to be huge (no more than 2.5ish carats).
5. Price - This is the lowest priority because although I'm not rich, I also anticipate this being the only piece of fine jewelry I ever design, so I want it to be as perfect as possible. I'm willing to spend up to $4k on my dream gem.

I was hoping some folks with more experience than I have could take a look at a couple of the gems I'm considering, and give me their opinions on cut, color, price, etc. I'm taking the weekend to think it over and hopefully decide by Monday. I've posted them in the order of my own affinity for them. And if anyone has personal experience with these sellers, please let me know. I've vetted them all thoroughly, but have found mixed feedback (as with most things).

1. Parti from Brume Jeroh (this gem has been listed several times, I saved the other photos posted of it here) - $1,000
2. Parti from John Dyer - $3,892
3. Interesting included gem from Earth's Treasury - $1,500
4. Peacock sapphire from Earth's Treasury - $3,600
5. Dark blue gem with cool inclusion from Earth's Treasury - $900

I also contacted this seller about a couple of gems in this post, but he hasn't gotten back to me, and I have mixed feelings about Madagascar-origin gems anyway (due to the ethical/environmental challenges in the mining practices there).

Are these fair prices? Are these good quality? Please don't be shy, and give me your honest opinions! And thanks in advance for lending me your expertise =)2

Welcome and congratulations on your upcoming engagement!

I too have a fondness for teal and peacock colors!

I’ll start with a few thoughts. Keep in mind color preferences are subjective and I am expressing my own, but also going to make some general recommendations

Admittedly I’m a bit confused by comment listed as item 2. “ I'd prefer a lower profile gem in relation to the surface area.” what do you mean by this? Many step cuts are even deeper than others in order to achieve the “steps” in the cut FYI. Many people (including me) select colored gems based on color first and foremost, and shape comes much further down the list.

I’d deter you from working with an overseas vendor such as Berume, and the reason being is they sapphires are shifty little buggers and it takes a lot of experience to pick out a good one and even then there’s margin for error. If you go this route, consider returns impossible. You should give yourself the flexibility to be able to return in case a gem doesn’t meet expectations. This is a normal experience and it takes firsthand viewing f to figure out preferences that photos just can’t represent

So, I’d scratch #1

A few other thoughts - teal sapphires if you aren’t careful can be muddy. I’ve seen multiple that are dark and lifeless. It’s hard to explain - but I’d highly recommend choosing a stone that is at least a full shade or two lighter than your ideal and more vivid, as it will darken when set. What kind of design are you thinking? For example, a dark stone can look very very dark in a bezel.

For this reason, I’d scratch #2 and 5 - they are very very dark

Finally…inclusions. I find some inclusions very intriguing, but many people consider them undesirable and depending on the type they can impact the structural integrity of the stone. My recommendation would be to steer clear of heavily included gems for this reason alone, and to me they impact the color and performance of the stone.

SO! After all that…you may not want to hear it, I’m not crazy about any of these stones. 4 is my favorite but I’m not wild about it for some reason. I’d ask for a video from them to see it in natural lighting. I also generally find earths treasury quite expensive
 
I will also add that I’d choose based on measurements, not carat weight. Sapphires frequently face up smaller than diamonds. You may find a 2 carat stone to have much less presence and look smaller than a diamond of the same weight, and 2 sapphires of the same weight could look to be an entirely different size

For example I have a deeply cut sapphire that is nearly 4 carats that “faces up” visually exactly the same as a 2.5 carat sapphire. It’s got “junk in the trunk” and has a deep belly :)
 
Last but not least do not rush this! Putting pressure on yourself to decide by Monday seems like a lot!

Many of us look and hunt for perfect stones for weeks, months and even years.

If this is going to be your “one and only” gem I’d try to be patient even though I’m sure it’s very exciting!
 
I like all of these much more personally

Montana’s can shift to grey a bit and have their own moody personality. I’m not sure if you are set on Australian sapphires so maybe they first two won’t work



 
I've been obsessing over these for a while
Not an emerald cut but still a step cut...so unique and beautiful


Also 'heated' vs 'unheated' is important. Heated sapphires are cheaper for a reason. Once I put one of my heated sapphire rings in a ultrasonic and it was destroyed and never sparkled again. You mentioned that durability is important so wanted to call that out..
 
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I've been obsessing over these for a while
https://www.earthstreasury.com/product/1-90-carat-aqua-yellow-particolored-montana-sapphire/
It's not an emerald cut but it's a step cut...so unique and beautiful


Also 'heated' vs 'unheated' is important. Heated sapphires are cheaper for a reason. Once you I put one of my heated sapphire rings in a ultrasonic and it was destroyed and never sparkled again. You mentioned that durability is important so wanted to call that out..

Hmm I think that you gem that was destroyed by ultrasonic had other things going on like maybe clarity enhancements or wasnt sapphire. Sorry that happened to you …very unfortunate!

Standard heat treatment should be stable. An ultrasonic should not damage a heated stone like this or any real sapphire

However, it is definitely considered less desirable as there is something special that a stone is natural. Heat treatment is used to permanently enhance color and clarity

Step cuts are a bit different than these although this is a unique cut! Some people really like hexagons. Step cuts have facets that resemble a staircase

For example here is a step cut hexagon
8CEF5429-D2C6-4D8E-8BFD-BE8F845F20D1.jpeg
 
Hmm I think that you gem that was destroyed by ultrasonic had other things going on like maybe clarity enhancements or wasnt sapphire. Sorry that happened to you …very unfortunate!

Standard heat treatment should be stable. An ultrasonic should not damage a heated stone like this or any real sapphire

However, it is definitely considered less desirable as there is something special that a stone is natural. Heat treatment is used to permanently enhance color and clarity

Step cuts are a bit different than these although this is a unique cut! Some people really like hexagons. Step cuts have facets that resemble a staircase

For example here is a step cut hexagon
8CEF5429-D2C6-4D8E-8BFD-BE8F845F20D1.jpeg
I guess it isn't a traditional step cut... but those are still pretty parti colored stones I thought


RE using an ultrasonic on a heated stone, I thought it was odd too, but then I found a bunch of articles about that, including the GIA site.
I wish I knew this sooner.... instead of learning this the hard way and destroying an expensive stone. It was definitely a sapphire, from a reputable vendor used on this site a lot. When I told them what happened they told me that I should have known not to put a heated sapphire into an ultrasonic

Screen Shot 2021-09-11 at 9.12.37 PM.png
 
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Welcome and congratulations on your upcoming engagement!

I too have a fondness for teal and peacock colors!

I’ll start with a few thoughts. Keep in mind color preferences are subjective and I am expressing my own, but also going to make some general recommendations

Admittedly I’m a bit confused by comment listed as item 2. “ I'd prefer a lower profile gem in relation to the surface area.” what do you mean by this? Many step cuts are even deeper than others in order to achieve the “steps” in the cut FYI. Many people (including me) select colored gems based on color first and foremost, and shape comes much further down the list.

I’d deter you from working with an overseas vendor such as Berume, and the reason being is they sapphires are shifty little buggers and it takes a lot of experience to pick out a good one and even then there’s margin for error. If you go this route, consider returns impossible. You should give yourself the flexibility to be able to return in case a gem doesn’t meet expectations. This is a normal experience and it takes firsthand viewing f to figure out preferences that photos just can’t represent

So, I’d scratch #1

A few other thoughts - teal sapphires if you aren’t careful can be muddy. I’ve seen multiple that are dark and lifeless. It’s hard to explain - but I’d highly recommend choosing a stone that is at least a full shade or two lighter than your ideal and more vivid, as it will darken when set. What kind of design are you thinking? For example, a dark stone can look very very dark in a bezel.

For this reason, I’d scratch #2 and 5 - they are very very dark

Finally…inclusions. I find some inclusions very intriguing, but many people consider them undesirable and depending on the type they can impact the structural integrity of the stone. My recommendation would be to steer clear of heavily included gems for this reason alone, and to me they impact the color and performance of the stone.

SO! After all that…you may not want to hear it, I’m not crazy about any of these stones. 4 is my favorite but I’m not wild about it for some reason. I’d ask for a video from them to see it in natural lighting. I also generally find earths treasury quite expensive

This is all so helpful, thank you! When I say "lower profile," I mean I don't want something bulky that sits very high on my finger. I have found the round cuts to always be deeper emerald cuts, and I don't want a tall prong-set gem. I am definitely measuring mm size rather than carat size, but I do find the surface area to be more or less consistent with emerald cuts of similar carat size. I've found that emerald cut sapphires of about 1.5-2.5 carats tend to be within my surface area comfort level (but I do take a look at total depth as well).

Re: #1 - The Nigerian seller does offer a 7-day return policy, so while it would be inconvenient, since the parti patterns are all so unique I might just end up taking the risk so I can see it, don't you think? If it's truly a tricolor, and not too dark, it's very rare and I'd be thrilled to have it.

Your point about inclusions is correct... I think I'm best off steering clear of big ones, especially for daily wear.

I agree, Earth's Treasury has some gorgeous gems, but 99% are heated and the price doesn't seem to reflect it. I'll scratch those off the list.
 
I will also add that I’d choose based on measurements, not carat weight. Sapphires frequently face up smaller than diamonds. You may find a 2 carat stone to have much less presence and look smaller than a diamond of the same weight, and 2 sapphires of the same weight could look to be an entirely different size

For example I have a deeply cut sapphire that is nearly 4 carats that “faces up” visually exactly the same as a 2.5 carat sapphire. It’s got “junk in the trunk” and has a deep belly :)

Yeah, this is a good point. I do try to check depth, but sometimes it's not listed and I get nervous bothering too many sellers with questions if I'm not going to buy :doh:

I like all of these much more personally

Montana’s can shift to grey a bit and have their own moody personality. I’m not sure if you are set on Australian sapphires so maybe they first two won’t work




These are beautiful, just not my style. The round cuts just aren't for me! I really appreciate you taking the time to post them for me, though.
Last but not least do not rush this! Putting pressure on yourself to decide by Monday seems like a lot!

Many of us look and hunt for perfect stones for weeks, months and even years.

If this is going to be your “one and only” gem I’d try to be patient even though I’m sure it’s very exciting!

And I knowwww it's just so stressful. I see one I really like, and I get afraid it will be bought out from underneath me. The regular teals are always around, sure, but the parti patterns are all so different, when one is gone it's just gone!
 
I've been obsessing over these for a while
Not an emerald cut but still a step cut...so unique and beautiful


Also 'heated' vs 'unheated' is important. Heated sapphires are cheaper for a reason. Once I put one of my heated sapphire rings in a ultrasonic and it was destroyed and never sparkled again. You mentioned that durability is important so wanted to call that out..

Oh, this one is beautiful! I want a winter wedding, so the "snowflake cut" would be really cool to have, but round isn't really my style. Beautiful color for an unheated Montana, though! And yes, I know it's uncommon for heated stones to be damaged and almost all of them are, but your story is precisely why I have a strong preference for an unheated gem! Thank you!
 
What do you folks think of this one? It's not an emerald cut, but it is rectangular. Really cool color partitioning, unheated, decent size, not too dark. The seller says it's listed for $3,250AUD.
 
I guess it isn't a traditional step cut... but those are still pretty parti colored stones I thought


RE using an ultrasonic on a heated stone, I thought it was odd too, but then I found a bunch of articles about that, including the GIA site.
I wish I knew this sooner.... instead of learning this the hard way and destroying an expensive stone. It was definitely a sapphire, from a reputable vendor used on this site a lot. When I told them what happened they told me that I should have known not to put a heated sapphire into an ultrasonic

Screen Shot 2021-09-11 at 9.12.37 PM.png

Oh interesting. I wonder if others might weigh in! I thought heat treatments were totally stable…so sorry that happened to you
 
This is all so helpful, thank you! When I say "lower profile," I mean I don't want something bulky that sits very high on my finger. I have found the round cuts to always be deeper emerald cuts, and I don't want a tall prong-set gem. I am definitely measuring mm size rather than carat size, but I do find the surface area to be more or less consistent with emerald cuts of similar carat size. I've found that emerald cut sapphires of about 1.5-2.5 carats tend to be within my surface area comfort level (but I do take a look at total depth as well).

Re: #1 - The Nigerian seller does offer a 7-day return policy, so while it would be inconvenient, since the parti patterns are all so unique I might just end up taking the risk so I can see it, don't you think? If it's truly a tricolor, and not too dark, it's very rare and I'd be thrilled to have it.

Your point about inclusions is correct... I think I'm best off steering clear of big ones, especially for daily wear.

I agree, Earth's Treasury has some gorgeous gems, but 99% are heated and the price doesn't seem to reflect it. I'll scratch those off the list.

Happy to help.

Overseas vendors will often offer return policies, but you need to dig around to see what’s even reasonable regarding returns. Some countries have very restricted mandates around importing and exporting and I have no clue about Nigeria. you may have to jump through hoops to get that gem back to him and I’m not sure if anyone here has worked with him

Berume from what I recall takes wire transfer only, I could be wrong. If you go this route I implore you to use PayPal or a credit card for more protections.

I agree his gems are marvelous - he has some very special partis! It’s up to you if you want to take the risk, but I would consider this option risky and wanted to give fair warning.
 
Yeah, this is a good point. I do try to check depth, but sometimes it's not listed and I get nervous bothering too many sellers with questions if I'm not going to buy :doh:



These are beautiful, just not my style. The round cuts just aren't for me! I really appreciate you taking the time to post them for me, though.


And I knowwww it's just so stressful. I see one I really like, and I get afraid it will be bought out from underneath me. The regular teals are always around, sure, but the parti patterns are all so different, when one is gone it's just gone!

Don’t pull the trigger because you feel rushed. There will always be more stones!

And definitely you should inquire and don’t be shy. If vendors don’t post more details, the should expect inquiries IMO
 
What do you folks think of this one? It's not an emerald cut, but it is rectangular. Really cool color partitioning, unheated, decent size, not too dark. The seller says it's listed for $3,250AUD.

Which stone? Unfortunately this link just took me to a list of stones
 
@chaplin have you selected a designer you like? I’ve seen a few who might be able to source a beautiful parti sapphire if you are struggling and can shoulder the risk of sourcing from an overseas vendor

CVB designs has an eye for beautiful colored stones to me, so does Sholdt

I’ve also seen a bunch of partis at Anueva but I can’t speak to their quality of rings as I don’t know much about them

I’d also highly recommend you check out these guys for sapphires as they are based in the US and returns would be easy I like the coloring on the one below. When I’ve inquired before they had more gems that weren’t on their site


^ Sholdt sources from them, CVB I know has sourced from Caleb Quashen

 
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Just my opinion here of course but wondering if you've seen any parti sapphires in person? With a small stone like the ones you're considering, I think sometimes you can't really see the coloring differences very well like you could with, say, an ametrine that would be affordable in a large size. So the parti sapphires can just look muddy or messy or something at typical unaided viewing distance. I'd also consider a pleasing color that was the same throughout.
 
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Also there's this designer that cuts her stones herself in a very interesting way (fantasy cut).... they seem to be very low profile
She also makes lovely settings

 
Adamant has a really cool yellow and blue/green one right now for a very reasonable price. It's unheated, and they have the best customer service out of anyone I know.
 
Jamie at First Class Facets quite often has an assortment of fine Parti Sapphires. Might be worth looking him up!

He's had some gorgeous stuff, but looks like he's sold out at the moment! I'll keep checking back.
 
@chaplin have you selected a designer you like? I’ve seen a few who might be able to source a beautiful parti sapphire if you are struggling and can shoulder the risk of sourcing from an overseas vendor

CVB designs has an eye for beautiful colored stones to me, so does Sholdt

I’ve also seen a bunch of partis at Anueva but I can’t speak to their quality of rings as I don’t know much about them

I’d also highly recommend you check out these guys for sapphires as they are based in the US and returns would be easy I like the coloring on the one below. When I’ve inquired before they had more gems that weren’t on their site


^ Sholdt sources from them, CVB I know has sourced from Caleb Quashen


I'll take a look at Choice, I haven't seen them before. I messaged Caleb on Instagram and Facebook on Friday and yesterday, and haven't heard back yet so I'm not sure how responsive he is. If he gets back to me I will inquire more.
 
I think sometimes you can't really see the coloring differences very well like you could with, say, an ametrine that would be affordable in a large size.

Adamant has a really cool yellow and blue/green one right now for a very reasonable price. It's unheated, and they have the best customer service out of anyone I know.

+1 to both of these comments.

When the sapphire fills half your monitor, the color-zoning looks fascinating. But when it's a few mm across and a foot or two from your eyes, that's something different. Might be why these took off online after they had not really done so "in person" for centuries. Of course some of it may just be exposure to a wider and more free-thinking audience, too.
 
Just my opinion here of course but wondering if you've seen any parti sapphires in person? With a small stone like the ones you're considering, I think sometimes you can't really see the coloring differences very well like you could with, say, an ametrine that would be affordable in a large size. So the parti sapphires can just look muddy or messy or something at typical unaided viewing distance. I'd also consider a pleasing color that was the same throughout.

I have not, but I've seen enough videos online that seem to represent them fairly well. I don't mind a little muddy/messy. My intention is not to find a perfect gem, and I know the colors will mix from other angles but that's part of why I like them! I'll try to see if any jewelers near me have any, but it's really not likely. I'm near San Francisco, CA so there are lots of jewelers but parti sapphires are not commonly stocked around here.
 
Adamant has a really cool yellow and blue/green one right now for a very reasonable price. It's unheated, and they have the best customer service out of anyone I know.

I'll take a look, thanks!!
 
+1 to both of these comments.

When the sapphire fills half your monitor, the color-zoning looks fascinating. But when it's a few mm across and a foot or two from your eyes, that's something different. Might be why these took off online after they had not really done so "in person" for centuries. Of course some of it may just be exposure to a wider and more free-thinking audience, too.

Probably a mixture of both. Colored/flawed diamonds are really popular at the moment for the same reason(s). I have my heart set on a sapphire, I want to wear it every day, and I don't want to walk around like I have glass on my finger, and so I'm avoiding anything that will crack/chip/break easily.
 
Here's a different question... Brume has another gem I may be interested in as well (this one). Other than it being a pain in the ass, can anyone tell me if it's realistic to consider buying both and re-selling the one I don't use? Alternatively... Are there any jewelers here interested in a "group buy?" :lol:
 
^ You can pretty readily get a "group discount" from a faraway vendor for batch-sending stones if you intend to keep them all -- especially at your price point or below. There is a ton of fixed or almost-fixed transaction cost in the time and insurance and energy and (sometimes) customs. Less of an issue within the US.

Never buy with the intent to sell -- unless this is your profession or serious side-hustle (i.e., you can add value by recutting at wholesale or you can do the "geographic arbitrage" -- like if you live in Sri Lanka and your enterprising buddy lives in NYC). If you are like me and nearly everyone else here, you will be lucky to get 25%. You think you don't trust these commercial vendors? Why would a private party trust you?
 
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