Art Deco Grey Spinel ring - opinions on CAD/Model

[Chasiu]

Last fall, I purchased a 2.27ct emerald cut grey spinel from IG vendor Naturedecolours that I totally fell in love with. In direct sun, it's pure medium gray, and the purplish undertones come out slightly in indirect sun + even more in incandescent lighting. I wasn't sure what to do with it for a while, but I knew I wanted to emphasize those beautiful clean facets.

After simmering on it for a few months, I was browsing CRD's site and saw that she had some super cute baguette pink spinels on sale. I immediately thought, "This would make some gorgeous sidestones if I did an Art Deco style setting!" so I snapped up 8 and started mocking up layout ideas.



I finally reached out to David Klass a little while ago to get started on this new project, and he has sent through 2 CAD iterations and a model of the 2nd version.

Version 1 - In my initial vision, I wanted the center stone set with double claw prongs, with an ogee detail in the gallery. The baguette sidestones are all bezel set & will be milgrained.


Version 2 - Horizontal bezel is now Bullet shaped and angle tilted to face up more; the shank is knife edged where it meets the cathedral shoulders but flattens to a more dome shape as it goes down. Again, the bezels will all be milgrained.


When I received the 2nd CAD, I immediately though "Yessss finger coverage" but then also thought that (1) the triangle corners on the shoulders might start to bother me and (2) I don't like that proportion of the open area under the bullet bezel compared to the other baguettes. The ring is a little over 23mm wide from tip to tip! Obviously the E-W baguette will be wider than if it were set N-S, but it's making me rethink the bullet bezel. The gallery view makes them seem like wings lol.

Perhaps I should keep the angle tilt but switch it back to a straight edge bezel? I'm not sure about the ogee detail either, but wasn't sure what else I could put in the gallery to keep the clean lines but not as boring as an open boxy basket.

David was also kind enough to send me a plastic model of the ring so that I can try it on. The pointy bits don't bother me all that much, but those wings still do!

Model of v2 - love the horizontal finger coverage




Wings


Ring butt!


So I humbly ask your opinion, what do you think of the shoulders? Do you think they look better with the straight edge bezel or the bullet bezel? And any ideas for an interesting gallery design?

 

[lovedogs]

I love version 2. When I first saw V1 I thought "nice!", and then I saw V2 and immediately thought "YESSSSSS"

 

[Chasiu]

It just occurred to me, maybe i should add some ogees under the bullet bezels to make it break up the big open space and echo the center basket more?

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I like the 2nd one better too. It looks like maybe with a little more downward angle on the end stones you could get rid of that wing look in profile.

The grey and pink combo is dreamy!

 

[Chasiu]

I like the 2nd one better too. It looks like maybe with a little more downward angle on the end stones you could get rid of that wing look in profile.

The grey and pink combo is dreamy!

Thanks @CHRISTY-DANIELLE for making the mockups! I think that makes sense too, so that the tips don't jut out so much. Visually, it seems more pleasing to keep the edge of the triangles in line with the widest part of the shank in my opinion. Perhaps it was trying to incorporate the curve/cathedral shoulders that is too difficult.

 

[Mreader]

I love both and it’s going to look amazing whichever you pick. What is CRD?

 

[OreoRosies86]

Oh, second for sure. Proportionally it’s just cleaner.

 

[Chasiu]

I love both and it’s going to look amazing whichever you pick. What is CRD?

Cecile Raley Designs on Etsy. Yvonne (the owner) sells a lot of loose gems (especially Paraibas) & melee, as well as some bespoke jewelry designs. I probably browse her store way too much lol.

 

[Mreader]

Cecile Raley Designs on Etsy. Yvonne (the owner) sells a lot of loose gems (especially Paraibas) & melee, as well as some bespoke jewelry designs. I probably browse her store way too much lol.

Oh yes I definitely know who that is I just did not know the acronym. Ha! She has awesome stuff!

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

I'm usually all about the tapered look. But surprisingly, I prefer the look of #1. I just feel the shape of the bezels complement the side stones better. Maybe if #2 had tapered baguettes at the ends instead, I'd feel differently? But as it stands now, the wingtips on Version #2 just seem, superfluous... It almost looks like extra metal that I'd want to shave off...

 

[mjea]

To throw another potential option into the mix, maybe your first CAD, with a thinner tapered shank where it meets the last bezel baguette?
I think both options are lovely! If I had a preference though, I think it leans toward your first CAD.

 

[leslie1956]

I love the pale pink spinels with the grey! I'm not usually a fan of light pink but it works beautifully with the grey by bringing out those pinkish-purplish undertones.

 

[Chasiu]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I've gone back to DK with a couple of comments (reducing the width of the shoulders by either adjusting the angle or making the triangles smaller, adding ogees) and will see what he comes back with.

 

[Chasiu]

Received the updated CAD - I think this looks much more balanced now! Shoulders are a little slimmer (a smidge over 22mm) and the angle of the horizontal bezel is more parallel to the shank. With the ogees, it doesn't look like it cantilevers out as much either.



When I was originally trying to think of what to do in the gallery, I was actually looking up photos of Art Deco architecture for inspiration. The little triangular details are giving me Chrysler Building vibes

 

[CSpan]

Obseswed with this gallery, although it may be too much for your sleek stones.



I am loving watching this project. I saw those baguettes and wanted them so much but already have 2 side stone setting ideas for grey spinels, of which I own 0 grey spinels.

 

[Chasiu]

Obseswed with this gallery, although it may be too much for your sleek stones.



I am loving watching this project. I saw those baguettes and wanted them so much but already have 2 side stone setting ideas for grey spinels, of which I own 0 grey spinels.

Ooh that's gorgeous! I really wanted to have a more ornate gallery too, but I thought it would be too busy/not enough space without a large halo above. I figured I would incorporate a fancy gallery in my other project, which is a lavender spinel/tsavorite halo ring (waiting for CADs from DanielM!).

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

Ooh that's gorgeous! I really wanted to have a more ornate gallery too, but I thought it would be too busy/not enough space without a large halo above. I figured I would incorporate a fancy gallery in my other project, which is a lavender spinel/tsavorite halo ring (waiting for CADs from DanielM!).

Oh my! I love lavender spinel and tsavs! Big fan of that color combo too! Can't wait to see that!

The new cad is exactly what I was thinking! Looks great! I really love that view in upper right corner--how you'll see it most....great lines.

Ok so now I'm anxious to see both of these beauties!

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

Received the updated CAD - I think this looks much more balanced now! Shoulders are a little slimmer (a smidge over 22mm) and the angle of the horizontal bezel is more parallel to the shank. With the ogees, it doesn't look like it cantilevers out as much either.



When I was originally trying to think of what to do in the gallery, I was actually looking up photos of Art Deco architecture for inspiration. The little triangular details are giving me Chrysler Building vibes

Ooo I love those little tweaks in CAD #2!

 

[Chasiu]

Finally, the finished ring is in my hands! I received the glamour shots from DK on Friday night and have been anxiously awaiting this new addition to my collection.

Here are a couple of the pics that from DK first. The lighting he is using in the photos must be super bright because the stones definitely weren't so saturated purple & pink in my photos lol.





And here is the finished product It's already mid-afternoon here in New York so the lighting isn't so great for photos, but the ring still looks amazing to me

The pink spinels definitely bring out the purple in the center grey spinel


Closer view... the milgraining is so delicate (as expected)


Love how the pink spinels can look a little more colorless at times but still so brilliant, almost like diamond baguettes


And can't forget a shot of the gallery that I agonized over! I love the overall proportions, and can you see that milgrain at the top of the basket for the grey spinel?! DK's team has such great attention to detail.


I really wanted to emphasize the emerald cut facets in the grey spinel, and I'm so happy with the way it turned out. At times, the colors look like purple + pink, and then silver + pinkish white. This ring is such a chameleon and It's just so fun to look at!

 

[lizzydm26]

Turned out beautifully! I love the deco inspiration, and it really makes your stones pop! I also love how the gallery turned out. Great details.

 

[CSpan]

What a fantastic finish! He did an amazing job and those spinels are so diamond like!
Love your center as well, it is so dreamy. Quick ? About the vendor, they told me they were to trade only, will they sell retail? And if so (assuming so) how did you pay them? Wire?

 

[Chasiu]

What a fantastic finish! He did an amazing job and those spinels are so diamond like!
Love your center as well, it is so dreamy. Quick ? About the vendor, they told me they were to trade only, will they sell retail? And if so (assuming so) how did you pay them? Wire?

@CSpan The first time I spoke to this vendor, I was inquiring about another grey spinel they had posted on a flash sale. I didn't end up buying that one but asked if they had any other greys within my parameters. A few days later, they showed me some other available stones that weren't included in the sale, which is how I found this one. They didn't specify they were selling to trade only when I first inquired (though perhaps things have changed?), and I paid via PayPal for each purchase (have acquired a few other things from them since this grey).

 

[LD]

Great job and the colours work so well together.

 

[LilAlex]

Nicely done! Looks like an antique already!

 

[CSpan]

@CSpan The first time I spoke to this vendor, I was inquiring about another grey spinel they had posted on a flash sale. I didn't end up buying that one but asked if they had any other greys within my parameters. A few days later, they showed me some other available stones that weren't included in the sale, which is how I found this one. They didn't specify they were selling to trade only when I first inquired (though perhaps things have changed?), and I paid via PayPal for each purchase (have acquired a few other things from them since this grey).

Brilliant!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I love how this turned out! And that gallery is perfection

 

[T L]

Beautiful deco ring!

 

[Slickk]

Love it!! So unique and beautiful!

 

[fussykiki]

Beautiful ring! Congratulations!

 

[femmemannequin]

its perfect!! also i do buy from the same vendor! they have gd cuts!