Asscher For Engagement Ring - Opinions?

[Joscuro]

Hi and thank you for taking the time to read my message.

I'm selecting an asscher diamond for an engagement ring (centerpiece for a three stone setting - art deco vibe). It's not an easy task, as I'm sure many of you have already heard from neophytes such as myself! The many factors that go into the creation of a beautiful diamond are, I admit, beyond what I originally expected - truly an art.

I'm hoping that those much more learned than I can shed clearer light on the quality of a stone that caught my eye. The general specs of this stone are: asscher cut diamond, 2.01ct, H, VVS2, Table 63%, Depth 66.4%, Girdle: Thick, Cullet: None, Ex/Ex. So far so good. Yet, an ASET image of the stone leads me to think that perhaps it suffers from some P3 angle issues. If so, how severe is the "damage?" I'll post images here and links to the item in question.

Thank you again for checking this out and for any advice that you could provide. Cheers!

J.

https://www.rarecarat.com/product/89196341?online=35,23,32,17,27,55,54,30,24,107,53,146,38,15,103,52,37,105,12&local=23,27,116,37&searchId=d226acc8-70bd-4841-8d17-6c82d7566574&postalCode=

Another video, different angle, available here: https://www.doamore.com/diamonds/5-528172881/

 

[Karl_K]

the pics pretty much show it, large dark zones in the p4 area(it has 4 rows instead of 3).
The rest of the stone looks pretty good.
So it comes down to if the dark areas bug you?
To me it makes it look off balance.

 

[tyty333]

I'm no expert like Karl but, to me, it doesnt look all that lively in the video. It looks like it would be a pretty bright stone but it seems
like it could use a little more contrast. Like its not a bad stone...it just could be better.

Or maybe its just a difference in video set up(brighter light on JA stone).
For example

2.02 Carat asscher diamond

This asscher cut 2.02 carat H color vvs2 clarity has a diamond grading report from GIA

www.jamesallen.com

Karl is an expert on asschers so I would follow his lead (over mine ).

 

[whitewave]

It’s so hard to find a good asscher. However, I lucked out and bought mine blind from blue Nile before they even had photos, video and they still don’t do aset. It’s part of the reason why I never traded it in (it’s a bit smallish for me 1.52 ctw) or sold it and started over. I don’t think I’m going to find another one just as good.

I think 2 carats is a good size for an asscher: they face up so small.

Have you seen this one in person? To me that is what you need to do and check it out in all light sources.

 

[monipod]

Asschers are tricky and after many months of searching, I compromised on colour and origin as I knew I needed a big pool to find 'the one'. I actually set mine in a three-stone art deco style ring but it's a right hand ring. My stone is 1.6 and my jeweller was surprised as it does face up small compared to a round. However, with a clever setting, it looks bigger As for your stone, I think it's a nice one. It's important to look at the video at the smallest setting. If you can still make out the steps at its true size, then it's a winner. You may just need to get it in hand and see for yourself.

 

[Joscuro]

Thank you, everyone, for your insight and wise counsel. You've jumped in to help with questions you've probably heard many times without a second thought - I very much appreciate it!

@Karl_K, I stand corrected. I see now how the issue is on the pavilion 4 angles (as you can imagine, I learned from your very informative article on the subject of asscher cuts). I appreciate your take on the rest of the stone, also.

@tyty333, I hear ya. The videos didn't make it as lively as its competitors. Could be lighting, I agree. Thanks for linking that other option (which I hadn't seen)!

@whitewave, I imagine it must be a bit nerve-wrecking to order something like this without at least some visual aid. Good to hear it worked out! Sounds to me like you're right, though, in that seeing it in person can make all the difference in the world (I've not had a chance to see it in person yet).

@monipod, yes, they do seem to face up significantly smaller than other cuts (maybe I'll dig in into what kind of setting can offset that, as you suggest!). Also appreciate your advice to zoom out until getting as close as possible to "real" size and then look at the steps.

I'm likely going to take a look at this stone in person. Meantime, I'll continue learning about all of this. One question pops to mind: are dark reflections near the center step cuts always a sign of light leakage or can they be a desirable contrast feature provided that they aren't completely caused by less-than-ideal angles on the p3/p4/p5 cuts?

I'm wondering because I find the occasional contrast aesthetically pleasing but it seems like there's a fine line between that and a potentially badly cut stone. The following videos illustrate this, from occasional dark reflections on the steps to more persistently shaded areas in the last example (does it mean it's a worse cut than the other two or "just how it turns out sometimes and it's up to personal preference)?

2.02 Carat asscher diamond

This asscher cut 2.02 carat H color vvs2 clarity has a diamond grading report from GIA

www.jamesallen.com

2.02 Carat asscher diamond

This asscher cut 2.02 carat H color if clarity has a diamond grading report from GIA

www.jamesallen.com

2.11 Carat asscher diamond

This asscher cut 2.11 carat H color fl clarity has a diamond grading report from GIA

www.jamesallen.com

Cheers!

J.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

As for the contrast it is definitely a matter of taste. There are stones out there that have contrast but are not as dark. But other people here are better experts on cut


One thing to think about is that an Asscher is going to show color. So some dark spots on top of the stone
being an H might exacerbate that. Here is my F in different lighting.



(2.03-ish F VS1 on size 6.5)

Just something to think about for how much you want to prioritize light. Good luck.

 

[tyty333]

I like the 2.11 (did you put that on hold) and the VVS2. The 2.11 has a great size compared to the VVS2.
Hopefully, Karl can/will comment between the three.

Size difference between the two (Just FYI). Size 6, 2mm shank

 

[diamondseeker2006]

The size difference is visible in that 2.11 over the original 2.01. But I didn't like any of the JA stones more than the original 2.01.

Will the side stones be asschers, also? If so, that's going to be even more difficult to find 2 matching sides.

 

[Joscuro]

@oncrutchesrightnow that's a beautiful ring and stone. Classy and understated but beautiful - thanks for sharing! That's a good point. I was shooting for eye-clean because imperfections will more easily show up on a step cut stone. Color should be a concern, too. Since it'll be placed in a partly rose-colored setting (perhaps just the band), a bit of hue shining through here and there may not be an issue

@tyty333 I like that website from where you took the photo - very useful! What's the name? I did put the 2.11 on hold, even though to my untrained eyes the other two could've had a better cut. I'll report on my findings after seeing it in person (should be here tomorrow).

On a related note, I've found a few cases where several companies will offer the same diamond for different premiums. JA was a bit trickier to figure out because they obscure/white-out the GIA # from their reports but that same 2.11 was also being offered at a much higher price in other stores (over 2.4k difference with the second "cheapest"). I now wonder just how often these premiums over the same stone get shuffled about between companies - "today I offer it cheaper and tomorrow you do" - as I'm sure that one of them can't always out-price the others.

@diamondseeker2006 I think that the original 2.01 is a nice stone. I was a bit concerned about the aset image and possible shortcomings so I started to look elsewhere - still, it wasn't a clear cut choice! The side stones will be more rectangular and even then, you're right, it's going to take some time to find the right ones. Is there a place where folks here recommend going for smaller size stones? I found some with pretty similar dimensions/weight in JA but maybe there's a better place for smallish loose diamonds

Again, thank you everyone for chiming in. You've all been very helpful and I'm happy with having found this great site

J.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

What do you mean the side stones will be more rectangular? Are you not using asschers?

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

@oncrutchesrightnow that's a beautiful ring and stone. Classy and understated but beautiful - thanks for sharing! That's a good point. I was shooting for eye-clean because imperfections will more easily show up on a step cut stone. Color should be a concern, too. Since it'll be placed in a partly rose-colored setting (perhaps just the band), a bit of hue shining through here and there may not be an issue

@tyty333 I like that website from where you took the photo - very useful! What's the name? I did put the 2.11 on hold, even though to my untrained eyes the other two could've had a better cut. I'll report on my findings after seeing it in person (should be here tomorrow).

On a related note, I've found a few cases where several companies will offer the same diamond for different premiums. JA was a bit trickier to figure out because they obscure/white-out the GIA # from their reports but that same 2.11 was also being offered at a much higher price in other stores (over 2.4k difference with the second "cheapest"). I now wonder just how often these premiums over the same stone get shuffled about between companies - "today I offer it cheaper and tomorrow you do" - as I'm sure that one of them can't always out-price the others.

@diamondseeker2006 I think that the original 2.01 is a nice stone. I was a bit concerned about the aset image and possible shortcomings so I started to look elsewhere - still, it wasn't a clear cut choice! The side stones will be more rectangular and even then, you're right, it's going to take some time to find the right ones. Is there a place where folks here recommend going for smaller size stones? I found some with pretty similar dimensions/weight in JA but maybe there's a better place for smallish loose diamonds

Again, thank you everyone for chiming in. You've all been very helpful and I'm happy with having found this great site

J.

Oh yes, rose gold plus H can be really pretty.

 

[tyty333]

@Joscuro diamdb.com for displaying different sizes of stones

These stones are virtual stones that can be for sale at different vendors. The vendor doesnt actually own most of the stones
they list. The stone(s) are brought in once you buy them.

Just make sure you check the different benefits of each vendor when you decide to buy. Sometimes the cheapest isnt always the best.
Depends on your needs and what you value. Make sure you have a 30-day return policy. Most vendors do price match so if you
prefer one vendor over another, maybe for a setting or for added benefits, you can review their policies (or ask) to see if they offer
price matching.

Several years ago when JA was sold they quit posting reports for their stones. I prefer other vendors for rounds but JA does have
a nice selection (and pretty decent videos) for fancy cut stones like asschers. Each time I have requested a report on a stone it
has shown up in my email within minutes.

 

[Joscuro]

@diamondseeker2006, asschers may be the way to go on the side stones (they are going to be smaller, so as to frame the center-piece stone) and I've considered rectangular emerald cuts or trapezoid shaped baguettes as well. Going for an art deco vibe, so keeping it to step cut stones seems to make the most sense (I've seen some nice photos of rings using this arrangement). Trying to avoid it looking too chunky - delicate and balanced is the goal. Something like on this photo, though with a square stone (and smaller, as that size would mean a very large diamond, I think!)



@oncrutchesrightnow, I think so too. Hoping that it won't take away from the sparkle of the stone too much. I've seen some mixes of rose gold with white gold, though it seems that 18k rose gold is harder to find for some reason (no idea why)

@tyty333, thank you very much for the scoop! I'll check that site out. I also appreciate the in-depth response regarding the live market and price differences between vendors. I hadn't checked for price matching but that makes a lot of sense.

I found it strange that JA would white-out the GIA #s on their reports. I agree with you, they sent me the reports almost immediately when I asked. Pretty good service, so far, also in regards to post-purchase support and shipping. Of all the vendors I've looked at, they seem to have one of the best video features.

The 2.11 arrived a couple of days after the purchase was completed. I've ordered an aset scope to take a look at it in more detail before making a final decision (I've found that brick and mortar stores don't tend to have these scopes on hand, which I find odd considering the value of the pieces with which they are dealing on an every day basis). Once I've got the scope, I'll try to take some photos to see how it pans out

J.

 

[lambskin]

I love athree stone square cut ring but it can look chunky when all three shapes are the same...especially Asschers And proportions are not right. I love a classic tapered baguette with this cut.

 

[molecule]

I love athree stone square cut ring but it can look chunky when all three shapes are the same...especially Asschers And proportions are not right. I love a classic tapered baguette with this cut.

Agreed. Or vertical baguettes! (kind of like below but with an asscher)



Or similar to the below. Bezeling the side stones does accentuate the geometrical shape.

 

[Joscuro]

@lambskin and @molecule I agree! The tapered baguette looks great. I saw this recently and it's about what I'm looking for (5 stone setup):

r6908

Glamorous five-stone engagement ring showcasing an Asscher cut diamond. The center stone is delicately flanked by trapezoid and bullet diamonds.

www.leonmege.com

I managed to get my hands on an ASET scope. I took some photos and a video of the 2.11. I thought I'd share here for the experts and to update whomever was following the thread

The video's uploaded here: https://filebin.net/907p0rdxqvxbde07

I'm including a few images, as well. Excuse their quality. I need some practice in taking shots with this thing (not enough hands!). Any tricks of the trade to take better aset photos for the DIY kind of person?



There's light leakage on the facets surrounding the center (for the looks of it, in the P3 facets), and in the occasional outer edge depending on orientation. A very pretty sparkle under bright light nevertheless. I'm a novice at this though so maybe it's just standard compared to typical asschers!