Assessment of existence of bow tie / Maltese cross effect on antique style cushion

[diamond_island]

Background
I'm interested in getting an antique cushion diamond and was excited to take a look at this I / *excellent* symmetry / *very good* polish stone.

However, when taking a look at it outside under a dark-colored awning noticed the stone go dark, showing something like the bow tie effect that can plague ovals, or the Maltese cross effect per this forum thread. See attached photos and video links below.

I'm not sure whether this is just par for the course, as it's just reflecting whatever is above it (in this case a dark awning), or a problem with the stone itself that wouldn't occur with a better cut.

Questions
Would greatly appreciate your perspective on a) whether this is indeed a problematic characteristic that impacts poorly cut antiques, b) a characteristic of all antique styles that can't be avoided.

And MOST importantly, whether this is as a result a subpar stone that should be avoided due to the darkness that can occur, or indeed a good one. I would have thought an excellent cut grade would count out any severe lighting issues.

Photos/Videos
Video of ring in poorer light: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WNTD0QUORmsRq9HfOJ8yE-rX0WkV_Nv1/view?usp=share_link

Video of ring in better light: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WMEdwiYeFXO3w4Vn0LtxcSQV8cDbrcHG/view?usp=sharing

 

[Wink]

One of the advantages of looking at a diamond in person is you will see what YOUR eyes will see, forever. If you do not like what you are seeing, then you have already made a decision in YOUR mind with YOUR eyes. This applies to any diamond of any shape.

Conversely, when you are looking at a diamond and it takes your breath away, then so long as you keep it clean, it will forever be a treasure to YOUR eyes and YOUR mind.

 

[Rockdiamond]

I second Wink's excellent answer- it's really up to your eyes.
To add more...
Photographing stones like this is a really difficult task.
You need to get the camera pretty close to the stone which will generally reflect darkness.
So it's really hard to tell from pics.
But there's another issue- it's a "mind clean" thing.
I started to read the thead you referenced to and had to stop.
Maltese Cross? That's perfect! Bow tie??? NO NONONONONO
Malarky.
But what I've found is that if someone is worried about a "bow tie" they're probably going to be able to see one on a stone like the one in the pics.
I've found that antique style stones cut like the one in the pics will have darker areas during rotation. In well cut stones, the darkness changes to flashing brightness with a tiny amount of motion.
But if a person is really paranoid about bow ties...they may not appreciate the flashing.

 

[Karl_K]

Do you see it with your eyes or just in photos?
Sometime taking pictures can show things you will not see with your eyes.
If you see it with your eyes alone and it bugs you then you have your answer.
Many old stones and even many cut in the old style are cut in such a way to react more strongly to obstruction than a modern RB.
They are fine in pendants and earrings but may be an issue in rings up close.

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Have you ever bought this cut before? Maybe find photos/videos online to compare, I think maybe Distinctive Gems has a number of these. They're different, and maybe comparison can help you decide.
I think they're enchanting but I'm no expert.

 

[diamond_island]

Thanks for the thoughtful responses! To clarify I did see this in person and took these photos.

Agree with everything shared - I am not a fan of this characteristic on the diamond.

The main question in my mind is whether this is standard for this large faceted antique shape (in which case I may move on to a different type of shape) or it’s only exhibited by a subset of stones.

It’s hard to find many of these stones to compare in person side by side.

 

[Rockdiamond]

Generally....rectangular diamonds may be more prone to having dark areas.
But more to the point....this is a hard to escape .... prejudice (?) I can't think of a better word.
Part of the appeal of fancy shaped diamonds is how they play with light.
The inequity of facet size is the main reason for what we're talking about here.
If it's a stone that is Cushion Brilliant ( as opposed to Cushion Modified Brilliant) the facets follow a straight line from the culet to the girdle.
In rectangular diamonds, the length of those facets is much shorter at 3:00 and 9 than they are at 12 and 6
You can really see this in a Pear Brilliant Cut where the tip ( long narrow pavilion facets) sparkles totally differently than the rounded end ( shorted, wider pavilion facets).

Anyway, my personal feeling is that I don't care if the stone sparkles evenly across the entire top.
There are badly cut stones that have static dark areas- bow ties. Let's eliminate those.
The best cut Cushion Brilliant ( for example) will have dark facets in the middle....for a moment- till you move the stone. And- the dark areas make the bright areas look even brighter.
You'll find most fancy colored fancy shapes are "Modified Brilliant" which adds additional facets on the bottom arranged in such a way that some, or all the facets emanating from the culet don't reach the girdle in a straight line.

I've found that the idea of bow ties puts some people off.
Like, if someone is looking for it, they'll see it in the type of stone the OP asked about.
I mean, round brilliant is far and away the most popular shape.

 

[lulu_ma]

Can you share the depth percentage of the stone?

 

[diamond_island]

65.1% depth, 61% table

 

[lulu_ma]

Here's an example of a stone where the faceting looks more balanced through out. Perhaps, because it has a smaller table?

Jewels by Whitney on Instagram: "You CAN have a big diamond if you open your mind to stones with a bit more color (beyond the D-K color scale) and consider stones with less-than-perfect clarity (beyond the flawless -VS2 clarity scale). This beauty

Jewels by Whitney shared a post on Instagram: "You CAN have a big diamond if you open your mind to stones with a bit more color (beyond the D-K color scale) and consider stones with less-than-perfect clarity (beyond the flawless -VS2 clarity scale). This beauty who has JUST returned from GIA...

www.instagram.com

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

The diamond above certainly has more restrained contrast, if that's a thing. The one you have (or don't) has big dramatic flashes. I like yours better but it's your purchase, not mine.

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Can the dark areas of contrast be "mitigated" with a professionally done video?

 

[diamond_island]

As a comp, here’s the professional video of the stone

WhatsApp Video 2022-11-23 at 2.28.54 PM.mp4

drive.google.com

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

The major variable will be you.
Your head size, skin color, hair size and color and most especially your usual viewing distance.
In those photos a black phone or large camer leans was used and is the source of blackness.

 

[OcnGypZ]

I'd head over to Youtube and search August Vintage cushion. There are a number of videos.

 

[lulu_ma]

The middle stone reminds me of your stone. I don’t know any of the particulars on these stones, but the faceting of the one of the left looks more balanced.

Joseph Hamra on Instagram: "4-5 carat elongated antique cushions are just right….which are you choosing?……. • • • #hamradiamonds #diamonds #privatejeweler #cushion #rosegold #cushions #cushioncutdiamond #cushioncut #twotone #rectanglecushion #cushion

hamradiamonds on December 11, 2022: "4-5 carat elongated antique cushions are just right….which are you choosing?……. • • • #hamradiamonds #diamonds #privatejeweler #cushion #rosegold #cushions #cushioncutdiamond #cushioncut #twotone #rectanglecushion #cushionsolitaire #diamond #platinum...

www.instagram.com