Assistance with Ring Purchase (Halo with Emerald)

[krish82]

You're awesome msop! Thanks for finding that out for me

Also, she wouldn't want to do anything physical with it on haha so that's not a problem, though, very good info to know about the thiness of the setting. I like both of the setting equally -- the Gab & Co and Adiamor. But wouldn't the price of Adiamor be more around $1500 - $1700 since it would be considered as a custom setting? Also, where would I go to set it? To a local jeweler? How much does that cost to get it set then?

haha I would love to view the .61 out and that's my plan as I want to view atleast 3 diamond in person though I am still looking for a third one around .61 or a little bit more with a more rectangle shaped.. hmm..

TheOneHC To be honest I think the width of the ring shouldn't be a problem. A lot of women love the dainty look including me, and you honestly won't have much of a problem with a dainty ring unless you do some physically crazy job lol, plus it is going to be 14k, so that should be a strong metals than an 18k.

Also, as I have mentioned above, the setting shouldn't be much more if it is only partially customize and in 14k. the $1,500 price is usually for a fully customize 18k setting

 

[krish82]

Ok, so these are some that I found... hopefully some of the EC chicks/experts will give their opinions.

http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.64-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-280570 $1730, 5.9 x 4.09

http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.56-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-213902 $1570, 5.49 x 4.16 -- this one looked really pretty to my eyes, and is (IMO) the perfect proportion for an EC @ 1.32. The only thing I'm concerned with is how the "darkness" would translate IRL... However, it does have EX polish/EX symmetry...

http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.57-carat-d-color-vs1-clarity-sku-254900 $1670, 6.30 x 4.23 -- this one is longer & thin... overall, it looks nice to my eyes.

Let me know what you think...

I think the second one has beautiful specs! like its color, clarity, depth, crown height etc. compared to the other two, however, I like the more rectangle shape emerald cut, but if you like this shape, then I'd say it's a very good stone! I like the shape of the other two, and one of them, the 0.57 actually looks big for it's size! but has a flat crown and might kill the fire of the stone a little, while the 0.64 seem a little deep. Of course with the prices, that will depend on TheOneHC if he is willing to pay more. But yeah I do like this one! http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.56-carat-e-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-213902..

For TheOneHC what is important is find the right shape, color, clarity etc. that you prefer and also look around and compare prices because some will sell it more than others, and you can always do research about the company that you are interested in. I suggest you learn more about emerald cut other than just the C's. If you want proportions that will give the emerald cut a nice shape and most importantly a great light performance, then learn more about its depth, crown height etc.

 

[krish82]

So when I look for diamonds I always do an advance search for depth, table, fluorescence etc. but when I looked at JA they didn't have any of the stones that I preferred, I think this was one of the main reasons I didn't go for JA since their fancy cuts are quite limited, and with Blue Nile which is also a great company sell their stones for a little bit more than Adiamor but they are quite famous and trustworthy. Blue Nile also do not provide actual photos, but you can always ask for one. Here's one that's not so bad http://www.bluenile.com/jp/en/emerald-cut-diamond-1-carat-or-less-very-good-cut-g-color-vvs1-clarity_LD04179583.. I just really like Adiamor because of their PRICE and customer service lol.

 

[Gypsy]

A lifetime wear setting costs as much as your whole budget.

You are pretty much going to have to choose between your center stone and the setting.

Either you get a nice setting and get a CZ for the center until you can afford a real center (not advised). Or you will need to get the stone now, and the setting later.

I don't think that a lifetime setting necessarily need to cost $3,000? I have rings that have lasted a very very long time, the same with my mom's rings, and they are still very nice and have had it for 29 years, and if they want this to be their forever ring (like what he said they wanted) it's not bad to pay half and half. I don't really see it as a waste of money if both will cost around the same amount, especially that his fiancé doesn't really care about the size of the stone, and with his $3,000 budget, he can definitely get a very nice ring. I also think wanting to upgrade or not is a very personal thing for the couple. I know I will never upgrade mine .

Are any of them a pave halo with pave on the shank? No? I didn't think so. There are plenty of rings that are under 1000, or under 350 even that are lifetime quality. None are pave halos though.

Cheap pave doesn't last through every day wear and tear.

Period.

That's why all the pave halo settings-- with pave on the shank the way the OP wanted-- are going to cost money and leave him with very little for a decent center stone.

That's what I was saying.

 

[Gypsy]

So when I look for diamonds I always do an advance search for depth, table, fluorescence etc. but when I looked at JA they didn't have any of the stones that I preferred, I think this was one of the main reasons I didn't go for JA since their fancy cuts are quite limited, and with Blue Nile which is also a great company sell their stones for a little bit more than Adiamor but they are quite famous and trustworthy. Blue Nile also do not provide actual photos, but you can always ask for one. Here's one that's not so bad http://www.bluenile.com/jp/en/emerald-cut-diamond-1-carat-or-less-very-good-cut-g-color-vvs1-clarity_LD04179583... I just really like Adiamor because of their PRICE and customer service lol.

You don't shop at BN for fancies... expect maybe their signature line. Which has nothing for the OP as Ihave already looked.

As for JA. That's frankly because you don't know how to shop for fancies. There are plenty of options on JA, and you don't need to restrict table and depth for emerald cuts. And FWIW you can do that on JA. You shop via pictures and light return. That requires images, and ASETs. Which JA provides. And Blue Nile doesn't.

 

[krish82]

So when I look for diamonds I always do an advance search for depth, table, fluorescence etc. but when I looked at JA they didn't have any of the stones that I preferred, I think this was one of the main reasons I didn't go for JA since their fancy cuts are quite limited, and with Blue Nile which is also a great company sell their stones for a little bit more than Adiamor but they are quite famous and trustworthy. Blue Nile also do not provide actual photos, but you can always ask for one. Here's one that's not so bad http://www.bluenile.com/jp/en/emerald-cut-diamond-1-carat-or-less-very-good-cut-g-color-vvs1-clarity_LD04179583..... I just really like Adiamor because of their PRICE and customer service lol.

You don't shop at BN for fancies... expect maybe their signature line. Which has nothing for the OP as Ihave already looked.

As for JA. That's frankly because you don't know how to shop for fancies. There are plenty of options on JA, and you don't need to restrict table and depth for emerald cuts. And FWIW you can do that on JA. You shop via pictures and light return. That requires images, and ASETs. Which JA provides. And Blue Nile doesn't.

Yes I know that, but as I have also mentioned, I was looking at the ones that I THINK is good, I have also mentioned earlier that everyone has their OWN preference when it comes to this, so the best thing to do it for TheOneHC to learn more about emerald cut himself and find out what would best fit him and his fiance, since obviously, everyone has their own opinion when it comes to fancies. So to me, table and depth is quite important, and I would also rather see it in person if I'm buying something that expensive.

 

[krish82]

A lifetime wear setting costs as much as your whole budget.

You are pretty much going to have to choose between your center stone and the setting.

Either you get a nice setting and get a CZ for the center until you can afford a real center (not advised). Or you will need to get the stone now, and the setting later.

I don't think that a lifetime setting necessarily need to cost $3,000? I have rings that have lasted a very very long time, the same with my mom's rings, and they are still very nice and have had it for 29 years, and if they want this to be their forever ring (like what he said they wanted) it's not bad to pay half and half. I don't really see it as a waste of money if both will cost around the same amount, especially that his fiancé doesn't really care about the size of the stone, and with his $3,000 budget, he can definitely get a very nice ring. I also think wanting to upgrade or not is a very personal thing for the couple. I know I will never upgrade mine .

Are any of them a pave halo with pave on the shank? No? I didn't think so. There are plenty of rings that are under 1000, or under 350 even that are lifetime quality. None are pave halos though.

Cheap pave doesn't last through every day wear and tear.

Period.

That's why all the pave halo settings-- with pave on the shank the way the OP wanted-- are going to cost money and leave him with very little for a decent center stone.

That's what I was saying.

I don't own one myself, but my grandmother does, and yes it has scratches and all,but it has been a while since I last saw it, but she will only wear it when she is not doing anything that could possibly ruin the ring, so all in all I think you just have to know how to take care of it and be careful if you want it to last a very long time.

 

[Gypsy]

You grandmother's ring, adjusted for inflation would likely be pricey now. And it is also probably platinum. You aren't talking apples to apples to a cheap setting off ebay from china that is mass produced. Hers was probably made with care by a craftsman or a jeweler who mentality was to make it last. Not from a jeweler whose mentality is to sells as many as possible, with no warranty, and to heck with what happens to it in a year.

My MIL has a D VVS/IF 1 carat stone her husband paid 600 dollars for. That doesn't mean that I am going to use that as an argument that you CAN get a lovely one carat D VVS stone TODAY for under a 1000 bucks. You logic is flawed.

 

[krish82]

You grandmother's ring, adjusted for inflation would likely be pricey now. And it is also probably platinum. You aren't talking apples to apples to a cheap setting off ebay from china that is mass produced. Hers was probably made with care by a craftsman or a jeweler who mentality was to make it last. Not from a jeweler whose mentality is to sells as many as possible, with no warranty, and to heck with what happens to it in a year.

My MIL has a D VVS/IF 1 carat stone her husband paid 600 dollars for. That doesn't mean that I am going to use that as an argument that you CAN get a lovely one carat D VVS stone TODAY for under a 1000 bucks. You logic is flawed.

But no one is suggesting that he get a setting from china with no warranty? lol, and when did you see my grandmother's ring? it is a 14k yellow gold, so why do you assume everything from "Are any of them a pave halo with pave on the shank? No? I didn't think so..." to "And it is also probably platinum" when you can't see it yourself? there are still going to be trustworthy jewelers out there that will give a fair price and care about their work. I am just here to give my opinion about the best possible ring that he can buy that's within his budget without sacrificing too since he did mention that they do want a halo setting even if the diamond has to be small, and the reason that I don't want to advice him with a bigger diamond because that's something personal since some people do want dainty jewelries.

 

[Gypsy]

You grandmother's ring, adjusted for inflation would likely be pricey now. And it is also probably platinum. You aren't talking apples to apples to a cheap setting off ebay from china that is mass produced. Hers was probably made with care by a craftsman or a jeweler who mentality was to make it last. Not from a jeweler whose mentality is to sells as many as possible, with no warranty, and to heck with what happens to it in a year.

My MIL has a D VVS/IF 1 carat stone her husband paid 600 dollars for. That doesn't mean that I am going to use that as an argument that you CAN get a lovely one carat D VVS stone TODAY for under a 1000 bucks. You logic is flawed.

But no one is suggesting that he get a setting from china with no warranty? lol, and when did you see my grandmother's ring? it is a 14k yellow gold, so why do you assume everything from "Are any of them a pave halo with pave on the shank? No? I didn't think so..." to "And it is also probably platinum" when you can't see it yourself? there are still going to be trustworthy jewelers out there that will give a fair price and care about their work. I am just here to give my opinion about the best possible ring that he can buy that's within his budget without sacrificing too since he did mention that they do want a halo setting even if the diamond has to be small, and the reason that I don't want to advice him with a bigger diamond because that's something personal since some people do want dainty jewelries.

Yes, someone recommended LOGR. That's exactly what they are. If you go back you will see. That's when the OP asked if they were Lifetime quality. My point was for "true" lifestime quality you have to pay for it. And 2000 is a very fair price for a lifetime quality setting in the pave halo style. But that doesn't leave much for the stone. Which is also what I said. The OPs budget is 2500. You can easily spend that on a quality setting.

And yes, there are trustworthy jewelers that can give him what he wants. But they don't do something for nothing and pave is labor intensive. There have been a number of affordable options posted. But those will cost at least 1k. And even then there will be some compromise.

David Klass is one recommendation. Gabriel is another. As for whether they are true "lifetime quality'... maybe, maybe not. Time will tell.

Your grandmother's ring is yellow gold? I'd like to see a picture of that. I don't know everything. But the fact that it is your grandmother's vintage ring (age and the jewelry trends of the time) and what you said about it being scratched up made it likely it was a patina on a platinum ring. Yellow gold vintage halos are rare, and are usually form the UK.

 

[chrono]

Unfortunately, something has to give for your budget and requirements. If you want something that lasts a lifetime, unless you are willing to plunk down $2K to $3K for the setting alone, the diamonds are likely to fall out when the ring is worn 24/7. The LOGR settings are a great buy for the price. With upgraded diamonds, they are white, clean and sparkly enough. Not the best but not the worst. Workmanship is decent but don't expect top notch under scrutiny. They will hold up well with care (remove before shower, gym, housework, going to sleep, etc).

 

[Niel]

here is my suggestion. High color and eye clean,

http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.42-carat-e-color-si1-clarity-sku-299610

lets assume they take a bit off for a discount make it maybe 730?

with this

http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/halo/platinum-pave-halo-shoulders-engagement-ring-emerald-center-item-17508

heres an example with a half ct asscher and though the stone is small the halo is a nice proportion.


plat would put it at about 3505
14k white gold would put it at about 2730

 

[TheOneHC]

After much thought and consideration... I went with krish's advice on Adiamor's setting and diamond:
http://www.adiamor.com/Engagement-Rings/Halo/French-Cut-Cushion-Halo-Setting/1652
http://www.adiamor.com/certdetails.aspx?did=20631706&d=1

The setting will be custom made in 19K white gold to fit that diamond. I believe the specs for a 19K WG is perfect along with this diamond. Elizabeth that works there will make sure the diamond meets all my criteria.

I'll post pics when I receive it

Thanks a-lot everyone! It's been a great pleasure being assisted by this wonderful community

Edit: Krish, can you send me your email since you've referred to me and we can both save $100 on our order

 

[msop04]

After much thought and consideration... I went with krish's advice on Adiamor's setting and diamond:
http://www.adiamor.com/Engagement-Rings/Halo/French-Cut-Cushion-Halo-Setting/1652
http://www.adiamor.com/certdetails.aspx?did=20631706&d=1

The setting will be custom made in 19K white gold to fit that diamond. I believe the specs for a 19K WG is perfect along with this diamond. Elizabeth that works there will make sure the diamond meets all my criteria.

I'll post pics when I receive it

Thanks a-lot everyone! It's been a great pleasure being assisted by this wonderful community

Edit: Krish, can you send me your email since you've referred to me and we can both save $100 on our order

I hope both the stone and setting are to your liking... however, I would not have chosen 18K, much less 19K for WG. It will show a much dingier tint more quickly when it needs to be rhodium plated again. If you can change it, I strongly recommend you do so for 14K. It will look whiter for longer and be less expensive.

 

[msop04]

OP, did adiamor send you a photo or ASET or anything on that stone? If not, you're kinda buying blind. With all the information on this thread about not being able to buy step cuts based on the numbers, I'm a little surprised you went with this vendor... but I hope they have sent you at least one of the two.

 

[TheOneHC]

OP, did adiamor send you a photo or ASET or anything on that stone? If not, you're kinda buying blind. With all the information on this thread about not being able to buy step cuts based on the numbers, I'm a little surprised you went with this vendor... but I hope they have sent you at least one of the two.

I thought the 19K would tint and would be weaker as well! As anyone would assume knowing gold, but I did my research and this vendor said exactly what I researched. 19K is actually stronger from 14K or 18K as it's mixed with different metals, also it never turns yellow due to the mixing of other metals (in the platinum family). They do rhodium plate it but it will stay white forever, but obviously rhodium plating will wear off eventually and they will be happy to re rhodium plate it for free. Though it will never turn the tint of yellow. Or am I wrong here? That's what everyone is saying in terms of 19K WG from my research.

I know I took a risk buying blind :/ But they will not charge me until I give it a go. The diamond itself is overseas and that's why they could not send assets, but she will check it for me prior to sending it and I have grown to have trust on them. They are happy to take pictures as well as soon as they get a hold of it

 

[msop04]

OP, did adiamor send you a photo or ASET or anything on that stone? If not, you're kinda buying blind. With all the information on this thread about not being able to buy step cuts based on the numbers, I'm a little surprised you went with this vendor... but I hope they have sent you at least one of the two.

I thought the 19K would tint and would be weaker as well! As anyone would assume knowing gold, but I did my research and this vendor said exactly what I researched. 19K is actually stronger from 14K or 18K as it's mixed with different metals, also it never turns yellow due to the mixing of other metals (in the platinum family). They do rhodium plate it but it will stay white forever, but obviously rhodium plating will wear off eventually and they will be happy to re rhodium plate it for free. Though it will never turn the tint of yellow. Or am I wrong here? That's what everyone is saying in terms of 19K WG from my research.

I know I took a risk buying blind :/ But they will not charge me until I give it a go. The diamond itself is overseas and that's why they could not send assets, but she will check it for me prior to sending it and I have grown to have trust on them. They are happy to take pictures as well as soon as they get a hold of it

The gold may be X1 White... it all depends on the alloy, but that's what it sounds like, so that's good. My local jeweler only uses X1 for white gold at his bench, and it doesn't ever turn or tint.

 

[MollyMalone]

For reasons that remain obscure to me, 19K white gold jewelry is much more common in Canada than in the USA (Ontario-based Imperial Smelting & Mining, for one, has offered a 19K WG alloy for years) -- altho' the pricer WG alloy Scott Kay here in the US uses is a 19K nickel-free one.

But SK rhodium-plates all their WG merchandise anyway, probably because so many people are expecting to see the usual, rhodium-plated finish.
http://www.scottkay.com/bridal/metals/
and no WG alloy ,including the so-called "super white"ones, is going to be the shinier white that rhodium plating confers; see the comparison table on page 3 of Stuller's pamphlet re their X1 alloys:
http://www.stuller.com/apps/images/kbpdfs/x1.pdf

Some of us don't consider that a drawback, even prefer it (e.g., I asked that my 18K WG pearl ring, with little pave cuffs on the shoulders, be left unplated). If Adiamor has the Stuller X1 alloys at hand, you might ask them if their bench would actually prefer to work with the 14K X1. Whatever their response or if you don't wish to revisit the question of 18/19K vs !4K vs. platinum, you could ask that the ring be sent to you polished -- but not plated -- so you & your fiancee can see if you like what that looks like. It's no big deal to have the rhodium applied if you don't care for the quieter sheen of the WG alloy in its natural state; the diamonds aren't removed from a ring before the rhodium "bath".

P.S. Since it's not an option given on their web site, would you mind sharing the cost Adiamor quoted you for that setting in the 19K? Inquiring minds would like to know the relative pricing

 

[TheOneHC]

OP, did adiamor send you a photo or ASET or anything on that stone? If not, you're kinda buying blind. With all the information on this thread about not being able to buy step cuts based on the numbers, I'm a little surprised you went with this vendor... but I hope they have sent you at least one of the two.

I thought the 19K would tint and would be weaker as well! As anyone would assume knowing gold, but I did my research and this vendor said exactly what I researched. 19K is actually stronger from 14K or 18K as it's mixed with different metals, also it never turns yellow due to the mixing of other metals (in the platinum family). They do rhodium plate it but it will stay white forever, but obviously rhodium plating will wear off eventually and they will be happy to re rhodium plate it for free. Though it will never turn the tint of yellow. Or am I wrong here? That's what everyone is saying in terms of 19K WG from my research.

I know I took a risk buying blind :/ But they will not charge me until I give it a go. The diamond itself is overseas and that's why they could not send assets, but she will check it for me prior to sending it and I have grown to have trust on them. They are happy to take pictures as well as soon as they get a hold of it

The gold may be X1 White... it all depends on the alloy, but that's what it sounds like, so that's good. My local jeweler only uses X1 for white gold at his bench, and it doesn't ever turn or tint.

Ah X1 white, interesting Now I gotta see if adiamor does x1 for all gold, and not only 19K

 

[TheOneHC]

For reasons that remain obscure to me, 19K white gold jewelry is much more common in Canada than in the USA (Ontario-based Imperial Smelting & Mining, for one, has offered a 19K WG alloy for years) -- altho' the pricer WG alloy Scott Kay here in the US uses is a 19K nickel-free one.

But SK rhodium-plates all their WG merchandise anyway, probably because so many people are expecting to see the usual, rhodium-plated finish.
http://www.scottkay.com/bridal/metals/
and no WG alloy ,including the so-called "super white"ones, is going to be the shinier white that rhodium plating confers; see the comparison table on page 3 of Stuller's pamphlet re their X1 alloys:
http://www.stuller.com/apps/images/kbpdfs/x1.pdf

Some of us don't consider that a drawback, even prefer it (e.g., I asked that my 18K WG pearl ring, with little pave cuffs on the shoulders, be left unplated). If Adiamor has the Stuller X1 alloys at hand, you might ask them if their bench would actually prefer to work with the 14K X1. Whatever their response or if you don't wish to revisit the question of 18/19K vs !4K vs. platinum, you could ask that the ring be sent to you polished -- but not plated -- so you & your fiancee can see if you like what that looks like. It's no big deal to have the rhodium applied if you don't care for the quieter sheen of the WG alloy in its natural state; the diamonds aren't removed from a ring before the rhodium "bath".

P.S. Since it's not an option given on their web site, would you mind sharing the cost Adiamor quoted you for that setting in the 19K? Inquiring minds would like to know the relative pricing

Wow that's very interesting, thanks for this! Would that mean 14k X1 is better than 19K X1 in terms of being "whiter" longer?
What would you recommend?

And Adiamor quoted me $1,470.00 for 19K in that setting
While 14K is at $1,150. An increase of $320.

 

[TheOneHC]

This is my order btw:

 

[MollyMalone]

Wow that's very interesting, thanks for this! Would that mean 14k X1 is better than 19K X1 in terms of being "whiter" longer? * * *

So far as I'm aware, there is no "longer" to any of the X1 alloys when left unplated, i.e., they all are stable, don't tarnish or "turn". There was initial concern when Stuller released the X1's because of the nickel content & some people's sensitivity to nickel. But Stuller's representation that the X1's were formulated to be hypo-allergenic seems to holding true; I've not read of any nickel-sensitivity complaints & the Stuller X1 earrings I own (stock mountings from Stuller itself) do not bother my hyper-sensitive ears at all.

I don't know how the whiteness of Stuller's 19K X1 compares to the 14K X1. My comment was prompted by the fact that the metalsmith whom a good friend of mine retained to make a right hand ring told us, in our initial visit with him, that (a) the 14K XI is somewhat whiter than the 18K XI, and (b) he generally preferred working with the 14K X1 anyway (any of the Stuller X1's will require a learning curve, modification of fabricating techniques, for a bench not familiar with them)

Have you seen this PS thread with the comments-observations from MichaelE., KarlK and TheDoctor -- who are all in the trade & have hands-on experience with the "super" WG alloys (MichaelE & KarlK - Stuller's X1's; TheDoctor, who is in Canada - Argen's 19K)
https://www.pricescope.com/forum/rockytalky/best-white-gold-alloys-t163572-30.html

 

[TheOneHC]

Wow that's very interesting, thanks for this! Would that mean 14k X1 is better than 19K X1 in terms of being "whiter" longer? * * *

So far as I'm aware, there is no "longer" to any of the X1 alloys when left unplated, i.e., they all are stable, don't tarnish or "turn". There was initial concern when Stuller released the X1's because of the nickel content & some people's sensitivity to nickel. But Stuller's representation that the X1's were formulated to be hypo-allergenic seems to holding true; I've not read of any nickel-sensitivity complaints & the Stuller X1 earrings I own (stock mountings from Stuller itself) do not bother my hyper-sensitive ears at all.

I don't know how the whiteness of Stuller's 19K X1 compares to the 14K X1. My comment was prompted by the fact that the metalsmith whom a good friend of mine retained to make a right hand ring told us, in our initial visit with him, that (a) the 14K XI is somewhat whiter than the 18K XI, and (b) he generally preferred working with the 14K X1 anyway (any of the Stuller X1's will require a learning curve, modification of fabricating techniques, for a bench not familiar with them)

Have you seen this PS thread with the comments-observations from MichaelE., KarlK and TheDoctor -- who are all in the trade & have hands-on experience with the "super" WG alloys (MichaelE & KarlK - Stuller's X1's; TheDoctor, who is in Canada - Argen's 19K)
https://www.pricescope.com/forum/rockytalky/best-white-gold-alloys-t163572-30.html

Ah interesting! No, I have not looked into that thread until now and that is very useful information. Maybe I should ask for Stuller X1 14k from Adiamor. Thanks for this topic!

 

[msop04]

Wow that's very interesting, thanks for this! Would that mean 14k X1 is better than 19K X1 in terms of being "whiter" longer? * * *

So far as I'm aware, there is no "longer" to any of the X1 alloys when left unplated, i.e., they all are stable, don't tarnish or "turn". There was initial concern when Stuller released the X1's because of the nickel content & some people's sensitivity to nickel. But Stuller's representation that the X1's were formulated to be hypo-allergenic seems to holding true; I've not read of any nickel-sensitivity complaints & the Stuller X1 earrings I own (stock mountings from Stuller itself) do not bother my hyper-sensitive ears at all.

I don't know how the whiteness of Stuller's 19K X1 compares to the 14K X1. My comment was prompted by the fact that the metalsmith whom a good friend of mine retained to make a right hand ring told us, in our initial visit with him, that (a) the 14K XI is somewhat whiter than the 18K XI, and (b) he generally preferred working with the 14K X1 anyway (any of the Stuller X1's will require a learning curve, modification of fabricating techniques, for a bench not familiar with them)

Have you seen this PS thread with the comments-observations from MichaelE., KarlK and TheDoctor -- who are all in the trade & have hands-on experience with the "super" WG alloys (MichaelE & KarlK - Stuller's X1's; TheDoctor, who is in Canada - Argen's 19K)
https://www.pricescope.com/forum/rockytalky/best-white-gold-alloys-t163572-30.html

Ah interesting! No, I have not looked into that thread until now and that is very useful information. Maybe I should ask for Stuller X1 14k from Adiamor. Thanks for this topic!

Really good info from Molly... and yes, I'd asked to have it changed to 14K X1, because the extra cost doesn't really make sense with your budget. That's like 12% of your overall cost...

 

[TheOneHC]

@msop yeah, totally! It only makes sense

@molly So apparently the vendor doesn't deal with X1 as "X1 white gold was replaced 8 years ago with a more superior option giving us a cleaner casting, diminishing the possibility of porosity. 14k, 18k and 19k white is made with our Argen gold. This upgrade provides us with a metal that is easy and cleaner in casting, and provides us with a whiter metal." Let me know on what you think based on what they said.

 

[MollyMalone]

@molly So apparently the vendor doesn't deal with X1 as "X1 white gold was replaced 8 years ago with a more superior option giving us a cleaner casting, diminishing the possibility of porosity. 14k, 18k and 19k white is made with our Argen gold. This upgrade provides us with a metal that is easy and cleaner in casting, and provides us with a whiter metal." Let me know on what you think based on what they said.

I imagine that Stuller would take issue with the deprecation of casting with their X1's. But Argen is the alloy that TheDoctor spoke of in the thread I linked earlier -- and more importantly, for your purposes, Argen's Superior White alloys are what Adiamor is used to working with..

Here's the chart from Argen's web site that shows how their various Superior White gold alloys compare to rhodium plating in terms of whiteness (think you'd find it interesting to compare it with the same kind of one from Stuller I linked previously, but for greater accuracy in comparing, reduce the Argen one to the size of the Stuller chart or blow up the Stuller to correspond to the Argen one):
http://www.argenjewelry.com/index.php?doc_id=23

Here are Argen's spec sheets for their various alloys:
http://www.argenjewelry.com/index.php?doc_id=14
But unfortunately, I couldn't find photos that depict the tones of the various Argen alloys & I don't know which of Argen's 14K or 18K alloys Adiamor would use, were you to choose either of those options in lieu of the pricier 19K alloy. But I think that warrants further exploration; the Vanilla White 14K, the UltraWhite 18K, and the TradVan 18K alloys all have the same index rating for "white"-ness & rank just below the 19K (which kinda surprises me because, based on the name alone, I'd expect Vanilla White to be somewhat creamy/buttery in tone). So, just on the face of things, looks to me like you could save some money & be happy with an Argen WG alloy other than the 19K.

 

[TheOneHC]

@Krish That link doesn't work as it's not a direct link to your facebook.

@Molly Ah thanks for clearing it up for me and for the very useful information Apprently Adiamor doesn't hold 14k alloy that hold white without tinting or turning and only have the alloy in 19K WG. I don't mind it, I actually like the idea of 19K WG

 

[Ella]

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