Best diamond size for tension setting

[brentellis]

Hi Tension Setting Experts!

I am set on mounting the engagement diamond for my fiance-to-be in a tension setting. Her finger is very small and short, so I will need to select a relatively small ring width (otherwise the ring will look boyish on her). In fact, I suspect that I might need to select the size of the diamond AFTER I select the width of the ring as opposed to the other way around. Do any of you experts know if it is potentially hazardous to have a diamond diameter that is larger than the ring width for a tension setting? (i.e. if the diamond edges were to protrude beyond the edge of the ring head) I ask because I do NOT want the girdle of the diamond to chip from daily wear and tear.

I am considering a platinum tension setting from Gelin and Abaci... something along the lines of the TR-039 (see the picture that is attached to this post).

For the engagement diamond, I am considering:

Cut: ISee2 (AGS000, etc.)
Colour: E or better
Clarity: VS1 or better, with no inclusions along the edge of the girdle
Fluorescence: none (not that it should matter, as far as I know...)
Girdle thickness: "Medium" or "Slightly Thick" <-- I''m not too sure about this... I need some help to decide this parameter ...
Weight: ??? (0.40 ct. to 0.50 ct., maybe???... this is where I need your help!)

I am looking forward to your response(s)!

Much Thanks!
Brent Ellis

 

[sparklish]

I''m not sure how thick the band has to be, but in most of the ones I''ve seen like the kind you posted, the band is as wide as the diamond. Even with a small diamond, that''s fairly thick, so if you''re worried about bulk on your gal''s small fingers, maybe something like this below would work, as it would look quite dainty from above.

 

[brentellis]

Hi sparklish,

Thanks for the suggestion! I may need to take the route that you have indicated, but I am hoping that I will not need to do so because my girlfriend''s favourite band is of the type that is similar to the TR-039.

I recently wrote an e-mail to Gelin & Abaci. A representative replied and told me that as an example, the TR-004 is one of the narrowest models that they carry and that the ring is approx 3 mm at the top and 4.5 mm at the shank. The representative said that this ring will hold a 0.25 ct. to 0.75 ct. stone and stated that even with the smallest stone (i.e. 0.25 ct., which is 3.75 mm wide), some of the stone will not be covered by the head of the ring. And so, of course, with a 0.75 ct. stone, a whole lot more of the stone will not be covered by the head of the ring. This e-mail indicates that Gelin & Abaci has some ring models that were fundamentally designed to hold a stone that would not be completely covered by the head of the ring. This means that they are also willing to set a stone into such models. My question is as follows: I _can_ have the stone set in this way, I am _willing_ to have the stone set in this way (I think that it looks good when the stone protrudes a little bit), but _should_ I do so? (i.e. would it be a bad idea to do so?) I don''t want the exposed parts of the stone to be prone to chipping (assuming normal wear and tear).

Fundamentally, I suppose that I lack an understanding of how vulnerable a diamond''s girdle actually is to chipping. Can anyone out there shed some light onto this topic?

Thank you all for your insight!

Best Regards,
Brent Ellis

 

[valeria101]

Why a tension set ring on a smll hand ? Does she like the look or is it entirely your choice ?

Unless the diamond sits high above the hand (not the case with most tension settings and definitely not with these two), it would probably be more exposed than desirable. Otherwise... half a carat or so should be safe, IMO.

If the N-S edges are closed (as they are in the second ring), perhaps the ring is even safer.

About the confort factor... I have been trying to wear a 6mm wide ring (also havy - about 12 grams) on my size 3 finger. After a whole day the finger hurts. The ring is going to change hands soon enough

 

[brentellis]

Hi valeria101,

Why a tension setting on a small hand? Well, because she loves the look...

I might end up going with style shown in the second pic for the security of the stone, although the weight of the ring is something that concerns me now... her finger size is around 4&1/2 and she would like something 2-4 mm in terms of shank width, and in platinum as well. Maybe since her finger is a bit bigger than size 3 and if the ring shank width is at least a couple millimetres smaller than 6 mm, the ring might be comfortable for her to wear. If only I knew of a place in Ontario, Canada, that has GelinAbaci settings in stock to get a feel for the weight!

Somewhat unsure as to what to do, but thankful for your reply,
Brent Ellis