Bezeled vs prong set mountings for colored stones

[Cind11]

On July 15-16, my DH and I went to the Ann Arbor art fair. There were something like 1200-1800 artists there. Different artists told me different numbers. There were MANY jewelers/artists. I can''t even hazard a guess how many. What struck me is that I saw one prong set ring the entire time I was there. In the two days we hit every artist there. All the rings, pendants etc. I saw were bezeled or flush mounted. I thought this was interesting because on PS it seems the majority of the jewery we see is prong set. The settings these artists had were really lovely. There were a lot of interesting color combinations. I saw a LOT of tourmalines. There was also aquamarine, opals, tanzanite, zircon, topaz, zircon, ametyst, citrine and peridot. I saw rhodolite garnet but very few spessartites and I think maybe one small tsavorite. I saw some sapphires too but not many. I''m guessing there weren''t many really expensive stones because the settings were expensive in and of themselves so adding a quite expensive stone would make the piece not cost effective to sell. I have to say I found the settings to be very fluid and elegant and much preferred them to prong set pieces. I say this even though I have some prong set rings and do like them. I just thought the bezel set and flush mounted rings were nicer and made for a more attractive piece. I do wonder why most of the rings we see are prong set. I think it is interesting how James Meyer talks on his website about prongs being a recent invention allowing jewelry to be mass produced.

So, tell me why you prefer one to the other and why. I guess I am curious.

 

[cellentani]

It''s easier to set a stone in prongs, and prongs can accommodate some slight differences in size - with a bezel, the stone size has to be spot-on. It''s also cheaper to get a stone set with prongs, and I guess those reasons are why I usually use them when setting my colored stones. I like bezels, but they only when they''re very thin, milgrained, and perfect (like the Tiffany legacy ring). It can be hard to find a jeweler who does a perfect bezel.

 

[mochi]

I love bezel set jewelry but limited in jewelers in my area that will do this and do it well. Therefore, I have to send my stones elsewhere for this, which equals to being a bit more expensive. Prong settings are alot cheaper and easier to have done in my area, especially with LOGR settings.

But if I lived near WF...I would definitely be keeping them busy!! (if $$ wasn''t a issue).

 

[Indylady]

Unless the colored stone is pretty light in color, I would probably prong set to let more light in.

I wonder why most of that art show had bezled pieces....

 

[Lady_Disdain]

I think that bezels integrate more into the design than prongs, so I prefer to use bezels as well.

Besides, unless you are casting, it is faster to fit and make a bezel (2 measurements, one solder, a few taps on the mandrel to size it up f necessary) than to make a prong setting (usually 8 soldering points or more), specially if the person has experience.

 

[Fly Girl]

When I see a design that I like, it is generally a bezel. Guess I just like those sorts of designs better. That said, I have a number of my colored stones prong set because the settings were less expensive.

 

[Stone Hunter]

Gosh that sounds like a wonderful way to spend hours and hours!

Lately I''ve been really drawn to bezels. Maybe they''re what''s in style now? They can be modern and sleek and vintage and milgrained. BUT most stones darken in a bezel so my color shift spinel can''t go in a bezel, and I can''t seem to find a prong setting I love. Have my mind set on bezels, but need a prong setting.

 

[chrono]

My decision for prong versus bezel depends on many considerations:
1. Hardness: as mentioned, aquamarines, opals, tanzanite, zircon, etc are not as tough and it would be something I will bezel set
2. Tone: Darker stones are best prong set and light toned stones are best bezeled
3. Design: This depends on the design. Some designs just scream for a bezel
4. Height of setting: Prong set are usually higher than something bezeled or gypsy set.

 

[ma re]

It might be also due to a shift in fashion trends why you see more of one or another (flush setting in particular looks very contemporary), but there are other reasons too. A decent bezel (jewellers say) is more difficult to make than a decent prong setting, especially with today''s mass production of half-finished items. So that''s probably why more skilled people (like those artists) prefer doing something not every around-the-corner-jeweller can to show off their level of skill (I''m just guessing here). And about the fact that you liked those items more than the standard stuff you see being sold daily, well that also might have something to do with the fact that it''s more expensive and made with more attention to detail. I personally don''t have a preference, anything works for me as long as it fits the design, materials and the overall look/feel of the piece.

 

[chrono]

I agree that whenever I attend an artist fair, all I see are bezeled jewellery. I suppose this style allows for a lot of details, something different and showcases the skill of the artist. You can tell that these pieces are not cast and take a lot of work and time to create, which also appeals to those who want something different and does not appear mass produced.

 

[Cind11]

Yes, I agree with those of you who said you think the artist likes to show off their skill and showcase the piece at the same time. My husband and I have been going to this art fair for over 20 yrs. If any of you live within driving distance of Ann Arbor, Michigan this art fair is well worth going to. There is fine art, pottery, glass, sculpture, jewelry and just about anything art related that you can think of. And the quality of the work is outstanding.

 

[litebrite]

I tend to prefer bezels to prong for the design aspects, though Mark Morell''s prongs always make me drool. And I know the prongs let more light through. Plus, how many people here own a LOGR? I don''t think LOGR has any bezels

 

[Harriet]

Cind11,
I''ve used Urban Jewellers before and was happy with their work. There''s another place on Main St (it''s on the block with the Subway and in the basement of a green-painted brick building) that''s promising too. Caveat: I haven''t been to Ann Arbor in a while, but I just checked and Urban is still around.

 

[D&T]

I love the look of bezels- clean and sleek. But I''m started to lean towards double prongs myself too.

 

[chrono]

Date: 7/29/2009 10:05:07 PM
Author: litebrite
I tend to prefer bezels to prong for the design aspects, though Mark Morell''s prongs always make me drool. And I know the prongs let more light through. Plus, how many people here own a LOGR? I don''t think LOGR has any bezels

I think I’ve seen a LOGR bezel here on PS. It has a diamond halo on the outside but the center stone is bezeled, not prong set.

 

[Cind11]

Date: 7/29/2009 10:18:10 PM
Author: Harriet
Cind11,
I''ve used Urban Jewellers before and was happy with their work. There''s another place on Main St (it''s on the block with the Subway and in the basement of a green-painted brick building) that''s promising too. Caveat: I haven''t been to Ann Arbor in a while, but I just checked and Urban is still around.

Harriet, thanks for the tip. Ann Arbor is about a two hr. drive but an easy one. I would love to find someone that does great settings so I wouldn''t have to send stones out of state which really makes me nervous. If we drove up there, we could always combine dinner with a visit to the jeweler. Can''t think of the name of the other jeweler?

 

[mochi]

Date: 7/30/2009 8:21:21 AM
Author: Chrono

Date: 7/29/2009 10:05:07 PM
Author: litebrite
I tend to prefer bezels to prong for the design aspects, though Mark Morell''s prongs always make me drool. And I know the prongs let more light through. Plus, how many people here own a LOGR? I don''t think LOGR has any bezels

I think I’ve seen a LOGR bezel here on PS. It has a diamond halo on the outside but the center stone is bezeled, not prong set.

Yes, I have two of them, round and a cushion LOGR.