CADs for 3 stone semi bezel

[Cerulean]

I did decide to reset my e-ring (again - heh - please do not try to discourage me or call me crazy for resetting so soon, but think what ye may!!!). Husband just wanted to get it over with, as I had decided to reset and just planned on waiting until the new year. I was going to just resize it, as recommended, but also found that with a 3 stone, I didn't like the flush sitting band (but I do with solitaires) and the thinness of the shank bothered me tremendously, beyond discomfort, just seeing how fragile it looked from the profile. It also just seemed to swallow my chunky wedding band (which i am never replacing) and it's delicacy was just lost against it, but it was beautiful alone. Gorgeous, gorgeous ring (and sides that are KEEPERS), but not my stone's forever home and I knew it right away.

This time, I am getting a wax made! The issues with my other setting I would have caught instantly had I gotten a wax...so lesson learned. DK has been awesome to work with and lightning fast so far!

This style was the other contender before I picked my other setting - I had it favorited for eons on Insta - I am also excited to have a setting that lets a bit more light in from the girdle and has a floral motif from the side view!

Anything glaring? It is inspired by the "Rule of 3" from Erstwhile, I just wanted:

• a thicker shank that matched my wedding band in height and style
• comfort fit
• high polished 950 platinum
• bezels to extend a bit further to protect the stones slightly more (the girdle on my center is medium to very thick so should be ok)

The other thing I was thinking of doing, was going up a quarter size, because my fingers swell so much in heat. Then I would add speed bumps and to prevent spinning. Is this a good idea? Would the speed bumps negate the 1/4 size difference?




Speed bump example....

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Those are excellent speed bumps but too close together - position them at Mercedes 1/3rd not 1/4 intervals. You will thank me for the comfort factor.

I would not raise the bezels higher than normal. There is no risk of chipping in that style.
This is not in my book a classic 3 stone ring (where the total weight of the sides = or is greater than the center diamond). But the fact they are set lower, they are seperated, and their axis points to the dead center of the ring - all is good.
If you plan to wear a wedding ring flush beside have the craftsperson remove a little of the base of the central bezel. Even in the dark you will be able to feel which side should sit flush against the wedding ring. That will not cause any weakness and it is better for all the wear from rubbing to be on one side of the ring than both.

 

[Cerulean]

Those are excellent speed bumps but too close together - position them at Mercedes 1/3rd not 1/4 intervals. You will thank me for the comfort factor.

I would not raise the bezels higher than normal. There is no risk of chipping in that style.
This is not in my book a classic 3 stone ring (where the total weight of the sides = or is greater than the center diamond). But the fact they are set lower, they are seperated, and their axis points to the dead center of the ring - all is good.
If you plan to wear a wedding ring flush beside have the craftsperson remove a little of the base of the central bezel. Even in the dark you will be able to feel which side should sit flush against the wedding ring. That will not cause any weakness and it is better for all the wear from rubbing to be on one side of the ring than both.

Thanks so much for these tips - really appreciate it. Interesting I wasn’t sure what classified as 3 stone versus center with sides.

never thought about that with a notch. I actually would prefer a gap, Will that create too much friction over time?

The bezels will be lower than the CAD shows- maybe I didn’t explain it well, but bezel in the inspiration design Didn’t cover as much of the girdle (stopped where my red marks are below) and just looked a bit more exposed which I didn’t like visually or practically, I didn’t mean adding vertical height to the bezel.



and just to make sure I am understanding correctly, you’re suggesting I shift the speed bumps to here

 

[Austina]

Both Bella & Marilyn are a quarter size bigger than my actual ring size. I really need that in the summer when my fingers swell in the heat. It’s not much of a problem in the winter as Marilyn’s band is quite thick so doesn’t spin, Bella’s shank is thin, but I wear my WB on top, so that keeps it in place.

 

[Cerulean]

Both Bella & Marilyn are a quarter size bigger than my actual ring size. I really need that in the summer when my fingers swell in the heat. It’s not much of a problem in the winter as Marilyn’s band is quite thick so doesn’t spin, Bella’s shank is thin, but I wear my WB on top, so that keeps it in place.

Thank so much for chiming in!

May I ask how thick your band is for Marilyn? My shank will be approx 2.5mm

 

[Austina]

Without measuring, I think about 5mm, and Bella is less than 2mm.

 

[Rfisher]

I’ve never had a plastic mould before.
Can anyone else attest getting one would or would not confirm accurately to @Cerulean with 1/4 size larger and with sizing beads and their location?
Just a thought!

 

[caf]

View attachment 785850

I’ve had several waxes in the past. They really helped me. Particularly with ring height.

 

[Cerulean]

I’ve never had a plastic mould before.
Can anyone else attest getting one would or would not confirm accurately to @Cerulean with 1/4 size larger and with sizing beads and their location?
Just a thought!

Thank you - DK actually just told me that because plastic molds shrink...they won't be a good indicator of size. :/ He puts in the sizing bumps after as well.

He mentioned I could do a euro shank, but not sure if i care for the look of those / am worried i might find it uncomfortable? i have never had one

 

[Cerulean]

Also - this was my "inspo" if it helps...I think DK did a great job - but if anyone with hawk eyes sees discrepancies beyond my mods...would appreciate feedback!

https://erstwhilejewelry.com/products/gold-rule-of-three

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Thanks so much for these tips - really appreciate it. Interesting I wasn’t sure what classified as 3 stone versus center with sides.

never thought about that with a notch. I actually would prefer a gap, Will that create too much friction over time?

The bezels will be lower than the CAD shows- maybe I didn’t explain it well, but bezel in the inspiration design Didn’t cover as much of the girdle (stopped where my red marks are below) and just looked a bit more exposed which I didn’t like visually or practically, I didn’t mean adding vertical height to the bezel.



and just to make sure I am understanding correctly, you’re suggesting I shift the speed bumps to here

Thats right for the speed bumps.

 

[123ducklings]

This reminds me of the ring this vendor recently made for @champagnepear Hers turned out beautifully! Best wishes for a smooth process and happy result!

 

[Cerulean]

This reminds me of the ring this vendor recently made for @champagnepear Hers turned out beautifully! Best wishes for a smooth process and happy result!

omg totally! hers is lovely

 

[Cerulean]

Got the wax, making a few small changes. Adding a taper so it looks less like a band, and slimming the shank by a virtually indistinguishable 0.2mm hah!

also asking that he make the baskets (?) a hair chunkier - I like the glimpses of metal you get in the original from the top view on the north / south sides - I realize it is at an angle.



Changes..

Inspo reference for “chunkier” baskets

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Lovely

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Why make the band so thin - it exaggerates the flush wedding ring problem and it will start bending way earlier when it wears thin at the back!

 

[Cerulean]

Why make the band so thin - it exaggerates the flush wedding ring problem and it will start bending way earlier when it wears thin at the back!

Does this mean the taper too? Or just the thickest part at the bottom of the shank

I was going to shift from 2.4-2.2mm at the widest

**edit - i forgot that the waxes shrink...i am going to stick with 2.4mm, but add the taper, i quite like the appearance of a taper and don't mind the gap

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

It appears you made the band finer. You can see there is a gap with your wedding band. A thicker band at the back stops bending in 10 years time. Tapering thicker at the back es a bigger gap at the top.
A thicker band all over reduces the gaps at the top.
A white gold wedding ring will wear out a yellow gold ring.

 

[elizat]

A mold is always smaller. It's part of the shrinking process of the material as noted above.

Have you ever worn a ring with those types of speed bumps? I ask because I can't tolerate them. I find them extremely annoying. I have had them removed in every ring that has ever come with one that I bought second hand.

I would take a ring of yours that's pre-existing and add speed bumps to it, one that you don't really care about and wear it. See if you like it. To me it felt like pressure points on the back of my finger- it was sized correctly. I simply do not like speed bumps.

 

[Cerulean]

A mold is always smaller. It's part of the shrinking process of the material as noted above.

Have you ever worn a ring with those types of speed bumps? I ask because I can't tolerate them. I find them extremely annoying. I have had them removed in every ring that has ever come with one that I bought second hand.

I would take a ring of yours that's pre-existing and add speed bumps to it, one that you don't really care about and wear it. See if you like it. To me it felt like pressure points on the back of my finger- it was sized correctly. I simply do not like speed bumps.

I have never actually had a ring with speed bumps. I figured if I hate them, I will get them removed. I don't have much fine jewelry at the moment to experiment with...I guess I have some silver rings...

I have seen some speed bumps that look crazy uncomfortable. This shape seemed the least obstructive...I do dislike spinning, and my fingers swell a lot, so I was thinking I could go a 1/4 size up for swelling, and add bumps to prevent spinning.

 

[Cerulean]

This is the latest CAD... I think I am feeling pretty good about it!!! I think there is a tiny touch of too much "side boob"

of course I am the one who asked for a peek of more metal from the top view...I am worried now it is a little too chunky and have asked for an "in the middle" thickness of the metal on the N/S sides of the stones as compared to previous CADs

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

no speed bumps?

 

[Cerulean]

no speed bumps?

he is going to add them at the end!

also said he is going to shave the sides a bit during polishing

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

easier to add on CAD

 

[123ducklings]

If he’s going to add the bumps at the end it might be worth it to wear the ring for a few days without them and see what you think. 1/4 size is such a small difference especially if you’re dealing with swelling, and I wonder if the bumps will negate it.

 

[Cerulean]

If he’s going to add the bumps at the end it might be worth it to wear the ring for a few days without them and see what you think. 1/4 size is such a small difference especially if you’re dealing with swelling, and I wonder if the bumps will negate it.

i would absolutely do that if he was local, but id prefer not to ship back and forth if i can avoid it. i have seen some terrible speed bumps, and might just give them a try this way, and if i don't like them, can have a local bench fix it.

i have been wanting to try them for a while generally, as i find ring spinning annoying..

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

i would absolutely do that if he was local, but id prefer not to ship back and forth if i can avoid it. i have seen some terrible speed bumps, and might just give them a try this way, and if i don't like them, can have a local bench fix it.

i have been wanting to try them for a while generally, as i find ring spinning annoying..

The ring needs to be a bit bigger to accommodate the speed humps.

 

[Cerulean]

The ring needs to be a bit bigger to accommodate the speed humps.

Hmm, ok, thanks for the heads up - I usually wear 7.5, and got a 7.75 - that's not enough of a difference?

 

[Cerulean]

Now I am second guessing the speed humps. Maybe I should just try the ring without them..

 

[Cerulean]

Pics are here!!!! Almost in my hands! Sooooo excited. It's got the junk in the trunk that I wanted, I think he nailed it!