Chronicle-working with a Custom Designer (M. Morrell)

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

I’m posting this thread at some of your requests to provide a chronology of my working with Mark Morrell to design a setting that will serve as the “dance partner” for a 3ct Princess, F/VS1 stone. The culmination is what I am referring to as “the perfect dance of a lifetime.” Mark has provided me with his permission to share my experience working with him. I anticipate this thread running well into March as the ring evolves.

Let’s get started by my first introducing you to the first dance partner – the stone! It was purchased from Jonathon, at Good Old Gold, and this picture is one that he took at my request. By the way, in respect for Jonathon’s business, I need to inform you that he copyrights his photos. My experience working with Jonathon has been absolutely steller! Need to check a reference with him – feel free to email me!! If you are interested in learning more about the stone, please see the thread : https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/3-ct-princess-candidate-review-help-pls-thx.12302/

more threads coming.....

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

Next, I started to reflect on my style, my girlfriend’s style and a review of the countless number of styles of settings that are available for review on the web. A terrific place to start is on this site at the following thread:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/the-forum-engagement-ring-folder-eye-candy.5429/ (My girlfriend is clueless that this is taking place or that I am planning to propose to her very soon. What I do know is that she likes princess cuts and like other diamonds complimenting the center stone.) Other ring vendors have online catalogs that afford one to scroll through countless pages of settings with and without stones. I now have generated some thoughts in my mind that I can convey when interviewing the designers.

A call to the designer candidates then took place. My objective was to see if our tastes, attitudes and interest in this creation aligned with each other. After a 30-minute conversation with Mark, my mind was already set on selecting him. Our personalities meshed and we knew that we could have fun designing a setting together that would be awesome! I shared with Mark some of the ideas that I had in mind and offered to email some mock-ups to him.

I then sent to Mark a picture of Lynann and I so that we could personalize this journey that we were about to embark on. Included were some traits of hers and some mock-ups hand drawn on a picture of a setting that I liked. Ironically, that setting was also one of Mark’s creations! Listed below are some email exchanges....

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

NEXT......>

To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 11:21 AM
Subject: Prospective Services
Greetings, Mark, and kudos for your awesome work that your site displays! I am 45, a professional that lives in Charlotte NC and I'm seeking a designer to work with to create a stunning platinum setting for a 3-3.33 ct Princess stone that I am now seeking. My timeframe is March, 2003 as I plan to give the ring on April 9. I hope to have found the "perfect" stone by mid-february. The designer that is chosen will most likely have the opportunity to later work with both of us to design our bands. The engagement ring will be a surprise.

I do not have a style "firmly" etched in my mind but, I plan to have some initial thoughts placed in both writing and pictures by early January for someone to begin appling their creativity to. Perhaps even to influence me differently!

My style is generally a blend of contemporary and elegance. Sometimes simply stated but unique. I definitely have an appreciation for fine craftsmanshipSo as not to waste anymore of your valuable time, might you be interested in this opportunity and, will the timeframe work with your schedule if you are indeed interested? I was referred to you by many off the Pricescope site.

I will be in Pittsburgh over the Holidays, returning the 31st, and will not be checking emails. Happy Holidays!

HIS RESPONSE:

Hi Frank,

Thanks for writing and thanks very much for your kind comments.

I hope that your Holidays were pleasant. I'd like to write here that I am just returning from a fabulous family gathering but the fact is that I am and have been fighting a particularly nasty bronchial infection. As a result, the shop has been shut down since before Christmas. I came by today to check my messages.

I'd be pleased to take a look at your ideas as they evolve. One strong suggestion that I can make now is that you be sure to select a princess cut stone with ample girdle width. I know that some folks don't wish to pay for weight that can't be seen. In a stone with points/corners, the mass at those points is critical for strength and durability over time. It's pretty common to see broken corners on princess cut stones after setting. I strongly suggest that you choose a top appraiser to evaluate your purchase before it is committed to a mounting. I also suggest that you insure the stone against breakage before having it set. Those of us in the industry cannot buy insurance against breakage in the setting process - so we can't offer it to our clients. Martin Haske at Adamas Gemological Laboratories has been instrumental in swaying some of my clients away from poor choices. Dave Atlas and Bill Liebrum(Rock Doc) are also top evaluators and consumer advocates. As a forum reader, I will assume that you are familiar with the afore mentioned appraisers. I'd be happy to put you in touch with any of them if necessary.

Again, thanks for the notes and best of luck in your hunt for the prefect stone.


Regards,

Mark Morrell

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

MORE......>

January 28,2004

Hello Mark!

I hope this note finds you feeling much better! First, Iýve included a picture
of Lynann and I to help you get to know us a little better. Secondly, Iýve
included some pictures to help you understand what currently has my interest.
Mark, Iým looking for a 3ct Princess stone that ýdancesý and Iým looking for
the perfect ýdance partnerý, which, I consider the setting, to make it the
dance of a lifetime. Lynann is clueless that this is coming!

A little about what style draws my attention.
ý Elegance
ý Simplicity, yet uniqueness
ý ýCleanýý.flowing
ý fairly symetrical
ý Stylish (not solely traditional and not overly contemporary)
ý Something that makes people say ýwowýýIýve never seen something that
beautiful (yet not ostentatious!)

Lynannýs general style.
ý Elegance
ý Expensive look
ý Symmetrical
ý ýeye catchingý

Lynann is 46 yrs old, a management consultant who interfaces daily with
corporate senior management. She drives a luxery automobile, is extroverted,
well liked, and extremely intelligent. She is drawn to quality. Did I add
anal and a bit overcompulsiveýlolý


Crude Ideas and thoughts

Iýve taken the liberty to draft some notes to help describe the pictures and
drawings that I am including with this email.

Picture #1

Iýve started with this ring as my baseline (the ring had a good designer, eh?)
since I love the elegance and smoothness of this setting. How the side flows
up to become two of the prongs grabs my attention.

Picture #2 (markings)

ý I would like to take the ring in Picture # 1 and make it into a European
shank at the bottom. However, I would want the transition to be smooth, almost
unnoticeable.

ý Next, Iýd like to fill the open space with channel stones diminishing in size
as it cascades down the shoulder. I am thinking 4-5 accent stones on each
side. (I am very open to your opinions and ideas on this). I do like the wide
shoulder at the top on this picture.

ý Continuing on, Iýd like to extend the channel line indentation from the last
stone on the bottom to the transition point of the added European shank. I
thought this may help make the ring flow from primarily being soft curves to
something now a bit angular.

ý Regarding the basket area to hold the stone, I have a few ideas and
thoughts. Could you keep the same design but convert the single prong side to
a double? This is where my creative thoughts can become dangerous..LOL. Iýve
had this thought of wanting to include a heart shape, subtle, mind you, that
would be incorporated into the sides of the basket setting. My thoughts are
that these would be incorporated into the sides and not the front/back side of
the basket. I wandered if something on the order of the heart in Picture #3
would be able to be incorporated, thus, possibly enabling you to branch that
single prong into two? I also thought the hearts may be a good transition from
the squareness of the princess center to the supporting round brilliants.

ý I am looking for the center stone to be square, around 8mm and the center of
attention that definitely draws one eyes. I will need your guidance on
diameters for the stones if we build a similar design.

ý Lastly, your expertise regarding ring height and thickness of ring between
the fingers will be of utmost importance.

I am so excited about making this come to fruition and I canýt wait to begin
working with you! I will plan to call you on Monday or Tuesday of next week.

Regards,

PICTURE # 1 BELOW

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

PICTURE # 2 below

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

PICTURE #3 BELOW

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

MARK'S RESPONSE

Hi Frank,

Thanks for your call this afternoon. I enjoyed our talk. Thanks for the
images. They do help me in sorting out a project.

I have been looking through your notes and images while working on a basic
form for your ring. I'm attaching a shot of the first realistic model. I
haven't tried to work in any hearts or channels or small stones at this
stage - just trying to make the leap from the 3 prong ring to a structure
that will carry a square stone at ~8mm X 5.81 dimensions.

Did we get a ring size established? I haven't looked back into out early
notes.

Please kick this rendering around over weekend. We can discuss it in the
coming week.

Enjoy the weekend.

Best

Mark

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

MARK'S SECOND RENDERING

Hi Frank,

The process that I have been utilizing is a new experience for most of my
folks. The whole idea of product development is new for most. When we're
conceptualizing a new form, we work incrementally toward the final
iteration.

I'm sending along some pictures of a wedding set that I did a while ago
that, I'm guessing, will look a lot like what you have in mind.

The situation with your stone is that first, it's square. Second, it's
deeper below the girdle than rounds tend to be. We have a different geometry
to accommodate in the mounting and we won't get it done with three prongs.
Therein lies most of the work in reinterpreting the style that you like to
carry the stone shape that you have chosen.

I'm also sending a shaded shot of a modified build that I did for you which
features a more conventional prong shape than the rendered image with
"boxed" corners from Saturday. In this shot, you'll see that the ring
actually flows or weaves very much like the original 3 prong setting with
the exception that we are securing the stone at 4 corners. I'm not certain
that we have enough prong coverage in this shaded image but the flow is more
apparent. We can probably enhance the woven look at the sides of the 4 prong
setting but we still need to consider the 4 corners of your stone.

As I mentioned earlier, I'm not considering the channels or the size of the
side stones a this time. The fundamental form of the ring needs to be
established first.

Please give some thought to the above. It may well be that we should
consider a fresh approach. Let's hammer on it more when you have a moment.

Best

Mark

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

SIMILAR TYPE SETTING MARK DESIGNED IN THE PAST

"LIKE THE SIDE STONES BUT I'M LOOKING FOR SOMETHING A LITTLE MORE BALANCED WHEN WORN WITHOUT THE BAND,,,,,WE'RE GETTING THERE!!

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

As you can see, CAD renderings are not all that enticing. My first reaction upon review was “ugh!” I was looking for that smooth flowing style verses the modular look that I was now viewing. A follow-up email and a brief phone conversation with Mark enlightened me to learn that this “journey” would be traveled one step at a time and that I would need to trust the designer. The cad drawings are crude in nature but enable the consumer to begin to see how the ring’s structure will be designed. Mark’s challenge with this setting design is to convert a 3-prong basket to a 4-prong basket that can handle a princess stone and the depth that comes with it. I’m told that Princess’ depths are deeper then rounds.

A new rendering was sent back to me and, this is where we currently are at in the journey! I’ve concluded that a good designer should not be rushed and that the buyer needs to be open-minded to suggestions. This ring will be Mark’s signature and we are committed to building a setting that is sexy and the great “dance partner” that my stone is seeking…..even if the timing should go beyond my target date of 3/30. I’ve alsolearned that good designers are also in great demand and a consumer is better off working with the designer’s time constraints – hence, my next updated post will not probably occur until after valentines day due to Mark’s time demands for other commitments. So far…..an enjoyable journey…..stay tuned!

 

[Hest88]

Wait, that's it?!? Now you have me soooo curious to see what the final ring will look like.

Thanks so much for documenting the process thus far. I'm sure I'm not the only one who is so fascinated.

 

[Patty]

This is fun to follow! I look forward to your next update...or should I say, "step in the dance?!"

 

[sumi]

What a fun thread! I loooove MM pieces. What a lucky woman! It will be very exciting to watch this ring evolve, see the final product, and hear your proposal story.

Thanks for letting us eavesdrop!

 

[hoorray]

I love MM pieces also, so this will be fun. A new MM piece is on my maybe someday list.....

 

[pqcollectibles]

This is Kewl, AOE, and very educational!! I can't wait for the updates to follow and to see your final ring!!

 

[fuffi]

I can't wait to see the final result ! I'm sure it will be fabulous. I'm glad you went with F color. Someone I recently met has a 2.5 ct GIA certed G princess and the color in her stone is very apparent.

I also want to mention (in case anyone reading this is looking into sidestone options for a princess cut) that she chose half moons as her sidestones and they look great. I had never seen them used with a princess before but they're definitely worth considering.

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

That sounds interesting - the half moons. Any chance of catching some pics to be able to post? I'm still in the "discovery" phase and open to suggestions.
Thx!

 

[fuffi]

I will certainly ask when I see her tomorrow and let you know.

 

[fuffi]

Here is the princess with half moons I was telling you about. Sorry if the pic is a bit dark- best I could do under the circumstances. I believe they are about a .50 each. She got them as an alternative to trillions which she'd been warned are very hard to clean and always look hazy. I've had trillions before and I would to agree with that.

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

Well, progress on my setting has been slow in coming. A week a go, I finally was able to get in touch with the designer after having left numerous vmail and email messages. We had agreed the week before Valentine’s Day that I would afford him time to get caught up with other projects. We would re-embark on this effort right after the 14th. It has been a test of ones nerves not having been able to get in touch with the designer given that the “big day” is less then 45 days a way and we are still in the concept stage. I trust him and will hold strong! That phone discussion was amicable and apologetic on Mark’s side for not having been a better communicator. Net-Net – he was swamped with work and a bout with bronchitis over the xmas holiday had put him in a hole that he was still trying to dig out from. I was asked to give him several days to revisit the work and Mark committed to getting back to me. (Note: in talking with a few others who have used other designers, it appears that there is a tendency for designers to over commit when taking on work). Considering they mostly do their own R&D for renderings, manufacture and do all the front and back office stuff such as sell, customer support, accounting, etc…….no wander!!

Well, I received an email from Mark today that left me gasping for air given that I’m 34 days a way and still in the discussion stage. Mark was ready to cut the cord on this initiative given his challenge working with the 4 prong square basket setting and his current workload – AAAHHHHhhhh! Read the note below.

From: "Mark Morrell"
Date: 2004/03/02 Tue PM 03:25:37 EST
To: Subject: Re: Re: Re: Continuation of our discussion (2)]


Hi Frank,

I have been reviewing our discussions. When I study your initial notes and
I read: Lynann's general style.
Ø Elegance
Ø Expensive look
Ø Symmetrical
Ø "eye catching"

I have to figure that you and I are seeing different possibilities -
different interpretations of the above descriptors. My job is to: First - build a structure that will support your stone properly - and do so for a good, long time. Second, I need to consider your styling wishes. Third, I need to make it pretty.

I have been pushing and pulling on elements of the second iteration that I offered up for your consideration and I find that I'm just working against my instincts and not making any progress. My initial offerings were built with all of my primary considerations in mind. The net flow of the piece is the result of the engineering. I believe that I can "see" what you are seeing in the design that you envision but I don't think I can make it work. As I noted above, I have instinctualized a lot of what I do and I guess I don't like to admit defeat. It's pretty clear to me now that I gave you what I had to offer at the beginning of February and I've just cost us both a bunch of time since that time.

I feel that it's wise to face the fact that we have a clash of sensibilities happening. In the interest of letting you move on to finding a mounting that will more closely fit with your vision - and me to stop fighting my instincts, we should agree that we tried but we failed.

I appreciate your wanting to work with me but I think you'll agree that we just didn't connect.
Best
Mark

WELL – after thinking about reality shows such as “Fear Factor” and “Survivor”, I called Mark and talked with him for a little over an hour. (I was dumbfounded by his email that said that we didn’t “click” – how could I have been so blind?? Everything seemed to be so cool in our talks, our emails…??????) Mark's concerns centered around not having boxed corners, the stone would not be protected enough…...he thought I was dead set against boxed corners…..whew! – just a miscommunication!

Our joint creative juices started flowing again over the phone and the sun is shining again……..Lesson learned – Maintain frequent communication with a designer and reiterate your willingness to compromise when it makes sense. I recognize that this is his “signature” as much as it is my “twinkle in the eye” …….Stay tuned……next mock-ups due by the end of this week……..the race to the finish should be exciting!!

 

[pqcollectibles]

This goes to show that nothing can replace speaking in person.

Emails are great, quick communicators, but lots get lost. There isn't the banter back and forth, bouncing ideas, actually hearing each other, and coming to terms with each other. So glad you made that phone call and spoke in person. Sometimes, that's all it takes for people to get on track with each other.

 

[Colored Gemstone Nut]

Interesting work...

Mark is cutom making Regina's ring also..

Ill have to post pic's when he done..

 

[Mara]

Designers can be so tempermental. 20 days into the project and he just isn't feeling the connection so he wants to ditch you? HELLO! On a timeline here!

I love MM's work...I guess in the future I'd just have an alrady made setting re-done so that I don't get the dreaded 'no connection' email...hehe.

 

[anothernewbie]

Sounds like Mark is a busy man. He's making a custom setting for me too. Apparently I'm in line behind AOE.....so quit having hour long discussions and let Mark get back to work. Other people are waiting!!!

Just kidding of course

...I hope it turns out well

 

[valeria101]

I am sorry to hear this...

The first rendering (the boxed corners) is just great, in my view. Since your stone is rather large, the relative size of the "corners" would be smaller (while I completely agree with Mark that such protective mounting is what princess cuts need) and the setting would allow a perfectly 'flush' band to carry extra accents, if you want them. Is the band split in two ?

Well, anyway, that rendering remains high up on my list of great designs... and still hope it will happen. Below is an inexact (but fast) explanation of why I believe that the design is by no means "heavy" but a very dainty, elegant piece. The free surface on the sides and prongs would allow for hand engraving a setting of (colored?) accents, if desired - all in all, a great point to start and definitely an "exclusive looking" elegant deign.

What I can plainly see in the original renderings is that the respective software is not exactly a great communication tool. There are quite a few details the renderings leave out - such as the elements of the setting holding the diamond. The lack of detail in the rendering makes the pieces look "bulky" and it does take some getting used to seeing the "true" shape through the thickness of technical details in the CAD drawing

Could this be the root on misunderstanding ?

PS: there are plenty of details & precision missing below: the red areas I believed to be “hollow” but not sure about this, blue is the outline of the stone… the background color has been used to show hollow space I was almost sure where to place.

 

[valeria101]

 

[Colored Gemstone Nut]

What dreaded no e-mail connection are you talking about Mara??

 

[Mara]

Josh..this snippet is from Mark via Appreciative's email (scroll up to Appreciative's post):




"I feel that it's wise to face the fact that we have a clash of sensibilities happening. In the interest of letting you move on to finding a mounting that will more closely fit with your vision - and me to stop fighting my instincts, we should agree that we tried but we failed.

I appreciate your wanting to work with me but I think you'll agree that we just didn't connect."

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

Well....my next step is to decide upon using a vendor for the side stones to join my center stone. Reference my earlier post
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/secondary-stones-in-setting-quality-options.12143/
seeking advise from the forum.

After heeding the advise coming from that post and consultation with GOG who found me an incredible center stone, I elected to approach Whiteflash with this part of the challenge. I've decided to go with round stones that all match in color and of a quality comparable to the 3.01 f/VS1 center princess. My preference is to go with Hearts and Arrows quality given the investment that I am already making.

After some preliminary discussion with Leslie Harris from white flash, it was back to the designer, Mark M., for confirmation and preparation for the next steps.

Our communication:
To: "Mark Morrell"
Subject: smaller stones & melee (whiteflash)

Hey Mark,

I've taken the liberty to search for some stone providers that will provide me
with the class of stone that I'm seeking for the rounds. So far, I'm feeling
pretty good while talking with Leslie Harris regarding their H&A stones. She
said that she has worked with you in the past. Has your past experience
working with her been good? Either email me or you can share your thoughts
when we next talk. Can't wait to see your next rendering!
Regards,
Frank

-------------------------------------------
....and Mark's response followed by mine.....

From: "Mark Morrell"
> Date: 2004/03/05 Fri PM 07:57:02 EST
> > Subject: Re: smaller stones & melee (whiteflash)
>
> Hi Frank,
>
> Leslie has been great to work with in the past - very helpful.
>
> What class of stones are you looking for in the rounds?
>
> Best
>
> Mark
------------------------------------

To: "Mark Morrell"
Subject: Re: Re: smaller stones & melee (whiteflash)


Hi Mark!

Hope you had dinner prior to sending your note!!! I emphasize with your
schedule!

Regarding the stones, Hearts & Arrows class, E-F VVS1 - VS2. The number of
points will be driven by your design and the physical dimensions of the
stones. Whiteflash supposedly offers the same quality with their melee. At
first, they were only interested in selling the pair of stones in the 23-27
point range. After discussion, they agreed to also sell their melee that they
prefer to stock and use on their private pieces. I feel very strongly about
having all the stones to be of similar quality and color.

Leslie remarked that she is looking forward to seeing the end result given the
remarkable center stone that I chose, the quality of the other stones that I am
seeking and the fact that your designing the setting. I think this may end up
being one that you will be proud to showcase!!

Hope to talk soon,
Frank

Stay tuned......

 

[Appreciative-of-expertise]

Hi all! Well!!! - I'm into the final lap of the race and it is sure becoming an exciting one! I've received new renderings from Mark today and I am so so excited! (Still alot of work to do yet but - we'll be ready for when we make that final turn into the stretch on this last lap. I will be attaching in 4 seperate replys the visuals/renderings that I received. I welcome any and all comments regarding looks, style, comfort considerations, etc! I still have time to have Mark "tweak" the design if needed.

MArk's note to me:

From: "Mark Morrell"
Date: 2004/03/09 Tue PM 03:03:08 EST
Subject: Re: Re: smaller stones & melee (whiteflash)

Hi Frank,

I've rebuilt your ring with an emphasis on finding some "swing" in the center setting. I think I found it.
The channels are now also defined and the stone sizes established.

We'll need an accurate ring size before moving to manufacture.

I've also factored out the cost of this mounting to the best of my ability. I don't have a true estimate of the platinum weight at this time but I think were safe with the following figures.

Total est. cost (I deleted the number at this time :>))$______ plus shipping and insurance.

Side stones measure:

2@ 4.0 mm.
2@ 3.5 mm.
2@ 3.0 mm

Please take a look at the attached images and let me know how we're doing. If we're in good shape with this build, I can work in the heart details on the side panels.

Best
Mark


Frank's thoughts: I like the flow, the symetry of the ring! My earlier concerns regarding the basket looking to squarish or modular have left me. Starting to think---OMG, this sucker is going to light up a room!!!u]b>

Image #1