Commissioning a stone

[TheElms]

Can anyone who has had something custom cut talk about the process? Down the road I'd like to find a 8-10mm light to mid grey spinel cut as an asscher or emerald cut (preferably asscher). I'v seen some that are pretty close approximations to what I want but they tend to be around 6mm and that is a bit small I think. So how does it work? For something like a grey spinel do I need to find a candidate for recut / rough or would the cutter do that? How specific in your desires can you realistically be? Anyone you'd recommend to cut an asscher grey spinel? Jeff White comes to mind but I've never seen him do anything in grey.

 

[chrono]

The lapidary will find the rough for you. Unfortunately, spinels are naturally smaller stones due to being washed downstream. A 10 mm asscher is going to be at least 7 carats. The rough material will have to start at around 30 carats, which is incredibly difficult to source. In addition, gray isn't in demand, hence you do not see big name lapidaries get requests for them.

 

[TheElms]

The lapidary will find the rough for you. Unfortunately, spinels are naturally smaller stones due to being washed downstream. A 10 mm asscher is going to be at least 7 carats. The rough material will have to start at around 30 carats, which is incredibly difficult to source. In addition, gray isn't in demand, hence you do not see big name lapidaries get requests for them.

Does the fact that grey isn't in demand mean that someone won't agree to look for it, or just that I might have to be especially patient?

Would it be as hard to find something around 8mm as around 10mm? It definitely does not need to be 10mm, but I'd like to assess the realism of getting something at 8mm?

 

[chrono]

You have to be especially patient. 8 mm will be around 3 carats, a more realistic wish, but still very difficult to source. The original rough needs to be around 10 carats.

 

[TheElms]

Do you think I would have better or worse luck looking for a grey sapphire?

 

[SparkliesLuver]

I think you'd have worse luck looking for a gray sapphire, but that's just my opinion.

I'd contact Ryan Quantz (https://www.instagram.com/quantzstudios/ or https://www.etsy.com/shop/RyanQuantzStudios) and ask what the largest gray is that he's seen. I know he's had quite a few in the past and re-cut asschers with them. Be a bit patient if he doesn't reply right away - he just moved across the country. Elle (https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheGemstoneProject?ref=hp_rv) might also be someone to contact as she's helped source some larger grays for people.

 

[TheElms]

I think you'd have worse luck looking for a gray sapphire, but that's just my opinion.

I'd contact Ryan Quantz (https://www.instagram.com/quantzstudios/ or https://www.etsy.com/shop/RyanQuantzStudios) and ask what the largest gray is that he's seen. I know he's had quite a few in the past and re-cut asschers with them. Be a bit patient if he doesn't reply right away - he just moved across the country. Elle (https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheGemstoneProject?ref=hp_rv) might also be someone to contact as she's helped source some larger grays for people.

Thanks! The ones I've seen are in Elle's shop and cut by Ryan but just a bit small I think. I'm not in any rush, so I can give Ryan a few days to settle in!, since I don't have the funds right now.

I think the long range plan is to have it set like mochiko's zircon with baquettes or possibly something like CVB's Giselle which has trapezoid french cut side stones. Maybe it would even be fun to have the side stones be white zircons! or another pale colored stone. I wouldn't want to overshadow the grey spinel.

 

[SparkliesLuver]

Sure thing. Yes, those ones have all been smaller, but I know Ryan has had others in the past. Vendors always have more than they list online. I'd contact both and let them know what you're looking for, since, like Chrono said, it'll probably be awhile. That way their eyes are always open too.

Fun! That sounds lovely.

 

[PrecisionGem]

Here's a few things to consider. (Note: I don't don commission cutting)

1. Spinel rough is most often in awkward shapes, so yields are typically lower than for many other types of gems.
2. Asscher cuts require a deep blocky rough to start with.
3. Gray is not a popular color, so many cutters wouldn't buy gray rough. I have over 15,000 carats of rough gemstones, and not one single gray stone.

 

[woweezowee]

Just chiming in real quick. I am about to send back a gorgeous darker grey with blue undertone asscher cut M'gok spinel that I got through a fantastic vendor on eBay who has his own excellent cutter overseas. I have it all packaged up but will take it out before I send. It's 2.56 cts, measures 8.2x 6.38 x5.4 and has no visible inclusions. If you'd like to see my own photos, I will take it out of its packaging. I found it too dark for me but it's still gorgeous!

M'gok Spinel

• woweezowee
• Mar 28, 2017

2.56 cts, 8.2 x 6.38 x 5.4

M'Gok spinel

• woweezowee
• Mar 28, 2017

 

[woweezowee]

Sorry for the bad grammar! ^^

 

[TheElms]

Just chiming in real quick. I am about to send back a gorgeous darker grey with blue undertone asscher cut M'gok spinel that I got through a fantastic vendor on eBay who has his own excellent cutter overseas. I have it all packaged up but will take it out before I send. It's 2.56 cts, measures 8.2x 6.38 x5.4 and has no visible inclusions. If you'd like to see my own photos, I will take it out of its packaging. I found it too dark for me but it's still gorgeous!

M'gok Spinel

• woweezowee
• Mar 28, 2017

2.56 cts, 8.2 x 6.38 x 5.4

M'Gok spinel

• woweezowee
• Mar 28, 2017

Aww, thank you for the offer woweezowee, that is very kind. Unfortunately, I'm looking for something a fair bit lighter than your stone.

Here's a few things to consider. (Note: I don't don commission cutting)

1. Spinel rough is most often in awkward shapes, so yields are typically lower than for many other types of gems.
2. Asscher cuts require a deep blocky rough to start with.
3. Gray is not a popular color, so many cutters wouldn't buy gray rough. I have over 15,000 carats of rough gemstones, and not one single gray stone.

Gene -- thanks for weighing in with a cutter's perspective. It definitely looks like I have a real challenge ahead for myself. I guess I'll have to consider my priorities and see what I might be willing to budge on to make my ask a bit more realistic and possible.

 

[shinylizard]

Chiming in a little late, I just did exactly what you want to do. I worked with Green Lake Jewelry Works here in Seattle, and asked theim to keep an eye out for a nice rough spinel chunk in dark grey, as I wanted a big asscher for a ring. (If you're in the Seattle area, Brant at Green Lake is the Great Spinel Enabler and knows his stuff)

The chunk they found looked large enough to cut a very big stone and was about a medium to medium-darkish grey, so I thought the color would be perfect. Around 13 carats if I remember correctly? Their cutter does excellent work, so I was really looking forward to it. The amount we paid was based on the size of the rough chunk.

The final weigh-in for the asscher was 2.89 carats and it turned out to be VERY dark grey, black at first glance. To be honest, a lot darker than I was looking for. But I felt a little stuck because I'd bought the stone, so didn't think there wasn't any room to negotiate because the color didn't turn out like I'd hoped.

I don't have a pic right now, as I'm at work. To describe it, it has to be in bright light to see the true flashes, which are an absolute gorgeous plummy purple. But otherwise... you'd think it's black at first glance. I'm holding off final judgement while I search for a setting, as that'll determine how the color really looks for daily wear. Platinum would really set it off beautifully.

If I were to do it again, I'd say hold off and wait until you find a stone that's already cut, so you know what the final color is going to look like. My stone turned out much darker than I wanted, so I was initially very disappointed. However, my husband loves it, and it's really growing on me. I ended up going through another vendor for a lighter colored asscher, so I'll have options once they're both set. I don't blame Green Lake in any way, the quality and cut are incredible. You just take your chances a little more with getting one custom cut.

As an aside, it's truly annoying that decent grey stones are so hard to find. When those of us who love them get the grey bug, it bites HARD. I now have several grey spinels, have given up on grey sapphires and moved on to grey (salt & pepper) diamonds, which are now a LOT more expensive than they should be. My husband scoffed at my grey diamond ring until it arrived, he now admits its gorgeous in it's own right. Most diamond people would probably still consider it gravel though.

-Rhonda

 

[hobbitfancier55]

I'm guessing this asscher by Gary is darker than what you're looking for?

http://www.finewatergems.com/store/p233/4.46_ct_Purple/Gray_Spinel.html