cost of setting a sapphire

[singingbell]

I''m working with a jeweler to design a custom 14 kt. white gold four-prong ring mounting for my green sapphire. (For details about the sapphire, click here to see an earlier thread.)

The jeweler provided some cost estimates based on the initial design drawings. What surprised me a bit was an additional $200 fee to set the sapphire into the mounting. The jeweler explained that the setting fee is based on the size and type of stone, as well as the risk they take in setting the stone. I can understand the rationale behind the setting fee, but it''s quite a bit higher than I had anticipated. (It''s about half of the cost of the sapphire itself...

)

My question for the experts here is, does $200 sound reasonable for the setting fee? One option I''m considering is having the jeweler make the mounting, then set the stone locally here in Los Angeles -- assuming of course I can find someone here who can do a good job for less cost. If I bite the bullet and have the jeweler set the stone, I''d have to simplify the ring design to reduce the cost within my budget -- it would mean less bling factor, but the trade-off is not having to worry about whether the mounting would fit with the dimensions of the stone.

I''d appreciate any thoughts/advice on what to do...

 

[Pandora II]

If they are including the cost of insuring the stone whilst setting then it sounds okay to me

 

[neatfreak]

Seems like a lot to me. My local store set my sapphire for free since I bought the mounting from them.

 

[singingbell]

Date: 4/10/2008 4:52:11 PM
Author: Pandora II
If they are including the cost of insuring the stone whilst setting then it sounds okay to me

Thanks Pandora. The jeweler never mentioned the word "insurance" specifically, but I will check with them to make sure.

 

[singingbell]

Date: 4/10/2008 5:02:08 PM
Author: neatfreak
Seems like a lot to me. My local store set my sapphire for free since I bought the mounting from them.

Thank you for your reply, neatfreak! I remember reading on PS that some jewelers are unwilling to set a gemstone purchased elsewhere unless the customer signs an agreement to bear the cost of repairing/replacing the stone should it becomes damaged during the setting process. I'm curious what your experience was -- did you and your local store discuss what would happen in that potential scenario?

 

[chrono]

$200 sounds pretty high, even if the cost of insurance is added for a sapphire. I''ve had other gemstones set for anywhere between $50 to $75.

 

[anemone]

Lemme know if I should start anther thread, but setting an 8mm square cushion sapphire for under $500 is a goal I have as well.



I''m looking for a very simple ring in white gold, either with a single strip of pavé or plain. Split shank would be awesome, but none I''ve seen were under $500.

Unique Settings of New York seems like a good way to go because a jeweler has to order it and can mark in some profit and still mount the stone in an inexpensive setting. I didn''t see any settings, however, that were sized for a square cut rock. All the gemstone settings were asymmetrically dimensioned.



Neatfreak''s setting with the sidestones is ideal. Are those sidestones trapezoids?



Here''s a simple split shank from natural sapphire company that is nice and LOW PROFILE, something I am definitely going for. I can''t figure out how to make links hot.
http://tinyurl.com/4hhr2t

Then there is James Allen simple 18K solitaires for around $300. I am assuming my cushion can be set in these 4 prong settings because it has a many-faceted pavilion with I think 8 mains.

Adwar casting company has lots and lots of 8x8 cushion settings including some split prongs with pave, but price would depend on who does the work.
http://tinyurl.com/6rsnmm

I''m tempted to do some reconnaissance around 47st here in NY and see what people are saying my options are. Maybe if I buy a couple of trapezoidal side stones or some pave they will be more inclined to set the stone.

 

[neatfreak]

Anemone,

My setting is actually from Unique settings. My jeweler told me that they could modify any of the settings meant for a square diamond for my stone, so we actually ordered a setting that was meant for a princess diamond and made it work for my sapphire.

If your colored stone is shallow enough this can be done pretty easily. Hope that helps!

 

[marcy]

I''ve had quite a few stones changed out in jewelry and the most I''ve paid is $40 per stone. I think $200 seems very high.

 

[Gypsy]

Sounds very high to me, especially as you are buying the setting from them. I paid 40 bucks to have my rhodolite set into my old setting. NEITHER the garnet or the setting were puchased at the jeweler.

 

[singingbell]

Chrono, Marcy and Gypsy -- thank you so much for sharing your experiences! I think I should probably get some quotes from a few local places to compare, but I'm not too familiar with stores around here. There's a store in the LA Jewelry District mentioned in some old PS threads (Navalty?) that apparently offered stone setting services, so I'll probably start there. I'd love to hear any recommendations from you for other stores in the Los Angeles County or Northern Orange County area in Southern California.

Anemone -- good luck to you in your search for the ring setting! Can't wait to see pictures when it's done.

 

[ebmfck]

The jeweler I use here locally charges me a max of $35 to set a stone. On one occasion he refused to set an emerald with an obvious flaw, so I took it to another goldsmith I know and he charged me $100. $200 is way out of line, especially for something as easy to set as a sapphire. For stuff like topaz, my guy just does it while I''m standing there and says he''ll catch up to me on the next one.