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Custom setting: The Gemstone Project vs. David Klass

elliefire99

elliefire99

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 12, 2018
Messages
584
Hello!

I a looking to embark on my first custom setting adventure, and I wanted to clear up a question/confusion that I had. It seems as though The Gemstone Project works with David Klass in her designs (same bench?). So for those that I have worked with either, what is the difference between working through Elle vs. directly with DK? In terms of cost, process, design, service, rules and policies, etc....

Thanks!
 
It kind of comes down to who you want to design it?
 
If you like TGP's design esthetic, it's meshes with what you envision for your ring, you want (possibly) more one one one attention, you want (possibly) more personalized service and guidance - and since this is your first custom job - go with TGP. You'll pay for her services. You will have no interaction with DK at all. TGP is generous with her time and very talented.

Can you get design work from DK? Absolutely! But you need to know how to read CADs and interpret them to how you already know you want the end result to be. You need a strong idea of what it is you want and don't want, or you need to be extremely open to interpretation. Is there some here who get phenomenal one on one service and guidance from DK? Of course! Is there more who don't? Sure, because they are a bigger outfit, some are bound to fall thru the cracks and they physically can't give every customer huge amounts of their time. DK's team is very polite and talented and generous as well.
DK has different benches who specialize in different levels of finish and by default TGP does as well. If this is important to you - you need to specify.

I've done both and have very little regret, if any, with either.

If you want exact policies and charge schedules -call them and ask.

!!Hint!!hint!!
I love to see people's inspirations and design ideas and for what stones, especially when it calls for custom work. Especially if they ask for opinions.
!!hint!!hint!!

PS- if you haven't already,
Please look up the numerous custom follow along threads on here. Look up the 'what you wish you knew before going custom' thread, too..
 
Thanks @NKOTB and @Rfisher for the info! I know of course that it comes down to design preference, but since Elle speficially states on the TGP site that she works with DK, I was a little confused about the exact relationship. I have also found it a little bit harder to find examples of TGP's work. I assume because she is smaller and newer.

And great to know about the 'what you wish you knew before going custom' thread. I have been browsing through various people's custom project threads in the Rocky Talky forum (as I actually plan to set a diamond, with colored melee/sidestones. Though I know that anyone can do both), but I have had a hard time finding a more general "custom" thread.

From my thread lurking, it seems that DK kind of just throws a bunch of CADs at you until you feel satisfied. Maybe that's not the case, and it's not even necessarily a bad thing. Though I do personally like the idea of getting some play and feedback from the designer end. These are design professionals right? Why not use their expertise?

And once I get some more "real" work done today, I will for sure post about my ideas and inspirations ;-) ;-) ;-) No such thing as too much feedback!
 
I've learned from my own trial and error with DK it helps to be very clear on what you are hoping to see. Use inspiration photos with specific design changes or elements that you want noted. The clearer I am, the more specific I am, the better my cads have looked. But they are also very patient and will work with you until you are happy. Not every jeweler is like that.
 
Design inspo! (for those who care/are interested) --Photos and sketches

The main stone I am working with is a 1ct 5.95 x 5.90, N color AVC diamond. I want to work mainly in 14k yellow gold.

The main inspiration this old ring online. I really love the sort of cupped setting it has. I like how it falls visually between a bezel and prongs, but I am not sure if it is possible to create a similar visual effect without a full cup on the bottom, to let more light through to the stone.
Image.jpg

The general idea is to mix that setting with the clusters of melee as seen in this ring:
Image [4].jpg

I did some sketches of what that might look like. I set the cushion on point, because I liked the trefoil/clover look it created, but I'm not set on that.
20181021_224722.jpg

Some sketches of some ideas of how to let light into the bottom of the stone, but gallery design is honestly totally flexible. The top image is a tracing I took of another ring's gallery and then modified. Since I was looking to set the cushion on point, the head in the top picture would actually have to be rotated 45 degrees. The bottom two (uglier) sketches are an attempt to capture what that would look like. I am also unsure if the melee clusters would be better on a cathedral-type setting, or down below the diamond, more low-profile.
20181021_224733.jpg

And last, but not least. I have some 2.3mm kornerupine melee (I have 8 ) that I would love to incorporate. I know some designers have strict policies about using their own melee and side stones. I could easily change this for light colored sapphires or something if necessary.
Kornerupine Melee.jpg


And that's the bulk of it! Any thoughts, concerns, criticisms, or specific designer recommendations are welcome (though high-flyers like LM, VC, and single stone are likely out of my budget).
 
Last edited:
Darn, can't see any of your photos. ..

DK will use your melee, fyi
 
omg @elliefire99 you are so talented!!!!! Those drawings are lovely!
 
Overall headed to this kind of feeling. But with yellow gold and less exaggerated "wings".
upload_2018-10-22_17-46-52.png
 
Fabulous! I wish I could draw like that! I'm partial to the cathedral myself. The sidestones are gorgeous!!!! This design is so beautiful!
Just letting you know, I have every confidence DK could do this for you, they'll do the CADS for free. .. no upfront fees. And price quote for you, I think you'll be surprised how reasonable they are.
 
I think you would really enjoy working with Elle at the gemstone project. If you google The Gemstone Project without etsy her design atelier will pop up. She has photos of her designs posted. She will spend a great deal of time and provide feedback before she proceeds with your ring.
I love your drawings! You should consider including them in your thread when you show us the finished ring.
 
I second everyone else who commented about your drawings, they are amazing and so are your ideas, I'm sure this will be an amazing piece.
 
The inspirations are are right up TGP's alley.
Your drawings are awesome and you can still get something pretty awesome going direct to DK.
I think it boils down to how you feel spearheading alone ( posting here notwithstanding of course!) on your first custom project.
Also - the more certain you are on the design elements you want to incorporate, and how you want them to flow together-the less you need TGP.
If you find specific aspects of your ring concept in DK's Instagram history done differently than what you wish and/or similar to what you wish - it can be an effective form of communication that avoids assumptions and discrepancies in terminology.

I'll be lurking, and waiting, for this one to pop up! Beautiful!
 
Hey everyone! Booting this back up for a moment for quick question.

I have heard back from both, and Elle is actually quoting me a bit lower than DK (though I realize these things can change with changes in design). Both have been great so far, though DK more succinct --- busy man.

Can anyone speak to comparison in terms of quality and finish of the work? All the DK work I have seen has been pretty top notch (esp. for the price point), but I am again suffering from the dearth of photos of TGP's work. I'm sure they would both do great, but I thought I would check in!
 
I'd ask for gram estimates on the gold in each ring from both TGP and DK as that might explain the lower price of one over the other? Also, your design illustrations show you have the skills to share what you are aiming for--- which some people need help with.................
 
Quality and finish will be the same. DK’s prices having been on the rise, and Elle’s are about to follow suit, according to her recent blog post.
 
I have a couple DK pieces and 2 more in production now, so I'm a fan. But If you need a little guidance or design work done, I think Elle really has an aesthetic like yours. She might be able to take your ideas and improve upon them, solve any issues in a creative way. She did a gray spinel engagement ring that I keep thinking of when I see what you've done.
I think you'll be happy with quality either way, but for this she might be able to bring it all together better. With DK you make a lot of your own design decisions.
DK doesn't charge anything up front though, and most designers want half just to get started.
This is that spinel ring by TGP:
20181027_202738.jpg
 
elliefire99 said:
Can anyone speak to comparison in terms of quality and finish of the work? All the DK work I have seen has been pretty top notch (esp. for the price point), but I am again suffering from the dearth of photos of TGP's work. I'm sure they would both do great, but I thought I would check in!
Click to expand...

In terms of quality and finish of the work - between DKJ and TGP there should be no real difference. At all.
The only difference would be which bench of DKJ performs the work. And that variance is available equally ( I assume) thru both.
As far as the pricing difference - I cannot answer, but maybe different benches were quoted?
I understand wanting to know just what you are paying TGP for, but I think if there are any misunderstandings of what you are trying to accomplish by having them both quote the same project, I think it could quickly turn uncomfortable.
Other than scrolling thru TGP's blog and Instagram, I don't think it'd be easy to quickly query thru these threads to find more of her work. Some I think we're just assisted with certain design aspects, not fully done thru TGP I think.
Maybe start a thread of 'show me your TGP designs' and others can chime in?
 
Thanks for the help and feedback everyone! Much appreciated as always!

I mostly just assumed that Elle would come out more for the referenced extra help and expertise, etc., so was pleasantly surprised at the result is all. Definitely no sinister motive behind asking both for a quote; I was just deciding if the extra design help would be worth it or not.

(And I may just start a TGP thread :) )
 
DK used to do her bench work, but according to her Etsy she is using another bench now apparently. So it may not be that you are getting quoted by the same bench via 2 avenues. ..
 
CHRISTY-DANIELLE said:
DK used to do her bench work, but according to her Etsy she is using another bench now apparently. So it may not be that you are getting quoted by the same bench via 2 avenues. ..
Click to expand...

Things change.
And that's ok.
Thank you for putting this here.
Asking the vendors direct is always best, rather than relying on past experiences of others.
 
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