Distinctive Gem or Canera

[Casper12]

Hi all! I been really wanting an antique cushion cut and have narrowed to either Victoria Canera or Distinctive Gem for their ideal cut cushion. Does anyone have any experience also using either for their ring setting as well? Or is it better for me to just purchase the diamond from them and find someone else to set it for me. TIA!

 

[Grymera]

From an optical perspective, both are exceptional. If there’s one you like better, go with that cut.

In terms of settings, Victor is probably as well known, if not far more well known, for his hand forged settings. If you ask for quotes, I think most range from $3k and up (10% off if you buy the stone from him, if memory serves), but there are simpler styles and he also offers a CAD line, Bliss, which is more affordable.

Jon at Distinctive Gem, is much more well known for his amazing array of custom cuts and diamond expertise. He offers sourcing help for stones he doesn’t cut and generally is just an overall powerhouse across many, many shapes and cuts of diamonds. To my knowledge he offers a variety of setting options, some from Stuller all the way up to more well known brands. So, for example, if you wanted something like a Sholdt setting, he could either do it or provide the stone (I can’t recall which he carries aside from Stuller off the top of my head).

It’s a bit chicken and egg, do you prefer to focus on the stone first or the setting? You also might find one has an in stock stone you could get a better deal on.

Worst case scenario would be to purchase a loose stone from either and then eventually find a designer that either doesn’t accept outside stones, or would’ve given a significant discount had you gone with their custom cut that’s to your liking. So I’d probably think about this as a whole project and move forward accordingly.

You really can’t go wrong with either. (Also, I am super biased towards Victor’s settings but hope to one day own an exceptional Distinctive Gem piece).

 

[Dreamer_D]

Have you excluded real antiques?

If you are set on new cuts I’d likely choose based on whether I wanted a Canera setting or not and what my overall budget was including the setting.

 

[newtojewels]

100% agree with @Grymera! If I were buying a complete ring and had the budget for it, I would go with Canera for a hand-forged setting. If you're interested in well-cut true antiques, people like @Dreamer_D can help you vet one. Some people here like to put all of the money into the stone but I think the setting is just as important as the stone, personally. Here's a review on VC but you'll find a ton more if you just search on the forum: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/wonderful-experience-at-vc-for-my-h-a-pave-ring.250696/

There is some kind of partnership between Distinctive Gem and CvB, so that would be a choice if you like her aesthetic: https://www.instagram.com/cvb.inspired.design/ Another person a lot of PSers like to use for settings is David Klass: https://www.instagram.com/davidklassjewelry/

 

[Casper12]

From an optical perspective, both are exceptional. If there’s one you like better, go with that cut.

In terms of settings, Victor is probably as well known, if not far more well known, for his hand forged settings. If you ask for quotes, I think most range from $3k and up (10% off if you buy the stone from him, if memory serves), but there are simpler styles and he also offers a CAD line, Bliss, which is more affordable.

Jon at Distinctive Gem, is much more well known for his amazing array of custom cuts and diamond expertise. He offers sourcing help for stones he doesn’t cut and generally is just an overall powerhouse across many, many shapes and cuts of diamonds. To my knowledge he offers a variety of setting options, some from Stuller all the way up to more well known brands. So, for example, if you wanted something like a Sholdt setting, he could either do it or provide the stone (I can’t recall which he carries aside from Stuller off the top of my head).

It’s a bit chicken and egg, do you prefer to focus on the stone first or the setting? You also might find one has an in stock stone you could get a better deal on.

Worst case scenario would be to purchase a loose stone from either and then eventually find a designer that either doesn’t accept outside stones, or would’ve given a significant discount had you gone with their custom cut that’s to your liking. So I’d probably think about this as a whole project and move forward accordingly.

You really can’t go wrong with either. (Also, I am super biased towards Victor’s settings but hope to one day own an exceptional Distinctive Gem piece).

Thank you so much for your insight! What does hand forged setting mean?

 

[newtojewels]

Thank you so much for your insight! What does hand forged setting mean?

So jewelry can be made in two main ways (and a few other less common ones): the first and most common method is casting, where a mold is made out of wax or similar and then hot gold or platinum is poured into that mold and then cools into shape. The second is hand-forging, there the metal is shaped while cold and then soldered together to form the finished piece. Here's a video from Victor Canera of them hand-forging a setting:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EngagementRings/comments/uoyrhu/the_hand_fabricated_jewelry_manufacturing_process

Proponents of hand-forging say the metal is denser because it is formed cold so it doesn't have micropockets of air that can happen in casting. A high quality casting shouldn't have big pockets (porosity) either, but it sometimes happens with a bad casting. Hand-forging proponents also say that because the metal is denser you can have more delicate looking (thinner) settings with the same strength as a cast piece that is a little thicker so less metal shows overall.

Personally I just like the idea of an artisan being involved in the jewelry and it not being mass manufactured. I have some hand-forged pieces and some cast pieces and I will admit that the hand-forged or the cast where the wax was carved by hand rather than with a CAD just feel more special to me. But that's just me!

 

[LightBright]

The two companies both do optically excellent cuts.

I would look at their diamonds and see which cut you prefer, if you can see a difference.

Both vendors can do excellent settings.

It sounds to me like you don’t really know what you want yet, in terms of a setting. IMO, the diamond you love and that’s within your budget should be your first priority.

Both vendors can likely execute what you want and have great benches and in the case of Distinctive Gem have other different vendor options.

Please also search Pricescope for examples of how they have set their customer’s diamonds. There are MANY examples of Victor Canera and Distinctive Gem’s work (as well as CVB ID jewelry who DG apparently can work with).

Do you want a modern setting, a pave setting or an antique style setting? There are stylistic options you can and should explore.

You might want to pick your vendor based on the style of setting you want.

IMO, hand forged settings are great if you can afford them but for some setting styles it’s over engineering to go with hand forged, and a cast piece is fine. But I agree with NewToJewels, a hand forged setting is an heirloom and “feels” like it.

Good luck.

 

[vintage diamond]

If you buy a diamond from Victor Canera I recommend letting him do the setting. His craftsmanship is impeccable. He made my first ering that eventually went missing, and I just haven't had a piece of jewelry since with the same level of perfection. His work is really something special.