Durability of diamond(s) set in 22K gold

[AL12]

Trying to see if anyone here has experience setting their diamond(s) in 22k yellow gold and how it's held up. Purely choosing this because color wise, it's closest to the type of gold tone that I like. I'm seriously considering this over 18K YG or even 20K YG after receiving some photos and searching through this forum, but posts in this forum for 22K YG mainly show jewelry pieces (necklaces or bracelets) or a simple band.

I don't care about scratching since I welcome the patina it will bring, but I don't want to face having to "fix" the ring in the near future.

For reference I'm looking to create a five-stone (seems as most PS-ers have them in WG or platinum) with a band on the thinner side, probably 2mm (subject to change if ratio is totally off). Stones will be close to 0.5 pointers but probably a little under.

 

[Karl_K]

It is way to soft for a 5 stone it will not hold up to daily wear. Look into 18k dark alloy.
This will get you started others sites may have images.

18K-22K Yellow Gold Casting Master Alloys - United Precious Metal Refining, Inc.

www.unitedpmr.com

 

[AL12]

It is way to soft for a 5 stone it will not hold up to daily wear. Look into 18k dark alloy.
This will get you started others sites may have images.

18K-22K Yellow Gold Casting Master Alloys - United Precious Metal Refining, Inc.

www.unitedpmr.com

Thanks for your insight, unfortunately I’ve already chosen a vendor and can only select from his offerings (which are a lot!).

In your experience does 18k also patina and potentially become warmer gold over time with wear? I may be able to compromise if it does.

 

[oldcutclubmember]

I was considering something similar to a 5 stone in 22k with a vendor a few months ago and was told that it would be too soft. She suggested 20k instead. I ended up not pursuing the project in that direction so I don’t have any real hand experience with 20k.

 

[Karl_K]

5 stone ring is the total opposite of what to consider for anything over 18k.
Higher k gold needs mass to overcome its softness and lack of stiffness if used in a ring.
The common 18k alloys in the US are on the bright side and will not wear to look like higher k alloys.

 

[AL12]

I was considering something similar to a 5 stone in 22k with a vendor a few months ago and was told that it would be too soft. She suggested 20k instead. I ended up not pursuing the project in that direction so I don’t have any real hand experience with 20k.

Yeah I got a side by side photo comparing the 20K and 22K and obviously I loved the 22K more. I felt like the 20K was not that far off from 18K anyway so might as well just have the confidence of durability.

Thanks for sharing what your vendor said!

 

[AL12]

5 stone ring is the total opposite of what to consider for anything over 18k.
Higher k gold needs mass to overcome its softness and lack of stiffness if used in a ring.
The common 18k alloys in the US are on the bright side and will not wear to look like higher k alloys.

Bummer x2!

Thanks for confirming that 1) the 5 stone setting will be too delicate for 22k to sustain and 2) 18k won't really patina.

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

I wonder if it would be possible to get 18kt gold and then have them plate it in 22kt? As long as you’re willing to replate when needed it should work!

 

[AL12]

I wonder if it would be possible to get 18kt gold and then have them plate it in 22kt? As long as you’re willing to replate when needed it should work!

I was also wondering if this could be a “thing” that could be done! I wouldn’t mind replaying at all! Maybe if it’s an option I can get it in 18k first and then if I’m just really not into it, ask for it to be plated?

Thanks for sharing your option!

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Make the ring as you prefer in 22K (but never 2mm band!!!) and have the tips of the prongs in platinum.

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Antique 5 stone diamond ring

Antique 5 stone diamond ring

www.mcmanusjewellers.com

example - not the style - the application

 

[AL12]

Make the ring as you prefer in 22K (but never 2mm band!!!) and have the tips of the prongs in platinum.

Haha yes I know I told the vendor that if they felt 2mm was too fragile, to let me know. I want to go as “dainty” as possible and as “high gold karat” as possible without overly compromising safety.

So it seems as if you gave conflicting advice from above and feel as if 22k gold would be perfectly fine, except for perhaps the prong tips? Can I ask if this is from personal experience or other?

 

[Karl_K]

So it seems as if you gave conflicting advice from above and feel as if 22k gold would be perfectly fine, except for perhaps the prong tips? Can I ask if this is from personal experience or other?

Garry has a ton more experience making rings than I do.
However I dont see that we disagree.
We both are saying a modern 5 stone minimalist 2mm band is not going to survive in 22k. Even with plat. prongs.

 

[AL12]

Garry has a ton more experience making rings than I do.
However I dont see that we disagree.
We both are saying a modern 5 stone minimalist 2mm band is not going to survive in 22k. Even with plat. prongs.

Ah perhaps then I was misunderstanding from the beginning!

Could I clarify then, the agreement is that 22k *can* work (but perhaps prong tips need to be a harder alloy such as 18k or platinum)

Would also appreciate suggested minimum width of band I should go with if anyone has suggestions (can also ask my vendor for their opinion as well).

While I love a dainty band, the band will be mainly obscured for this type of setting so I don’t feel so strongly about width versus if it was visible from top down.

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

If you have a 3mm wide band thicker than 2mm at thinnest part that would be OK.
The larger your finger the thicker you need.
And yes - 46 years with maybe 20-50 custom made rings a month. Plus stock production.

 

[yssie]

Don’t do it. 22k is seriously soft af. Doesn’t matter what you alloy it with, 22k prongs will loosen and you will lose stones within maybe a few months if you wear it regularly.

If you do contrasting prongs, I’d do them white metal, not a different shade of yellow - I think mixing two shades of yellow could wind up being a “it almost matches but not quite, what happened” situation rather than looking like a deliberate design choice…

 

[AL12]

Don’t do it. 22k is seriously soft af. Doesn’t matter what you alloy it with, 22k prongs will loosen and you will lose stones within maybe a few months if you wear it regularly.

If you do contrasting prongs, I’d do them white metal, not a different shade of yellow - I think mixing two shades of yellow could wind up being a “it almost matches but not quite, what happened” situation rather than looking like a deliberate design choice…

Thanks for your adamant response re: prongs in 22k

I think the agreement is that prongs def should not be 22k and band also needs to be wider if choosing 22k:

Good point about two different golds clashing more than a true two tone. Maybe I thought I could get away with it because I’m requesting the prongs to have as little visibility as possible (shared prongs close to the center of each diamond).

To be honest, I’ve never been a big fan of two tone for myself although I have considered it for this setting since five stones in wg/platinum seem to look better. If I decide I really don’t want a two-tone I will probably just play it safe with 18k. I’m sure it will also make matching my future pieces easier since I’m on a mission to convert my pieces to yellow gold one by one.

 

[yssie]

Thanks for your adamant response re: prongs in 22k

I think the agreement is that prongs def should not be 22k and band also needs to be wider if choosing 22k:

Good point about two different golds clashing more than a true two tone. Maybe I thought I could get away with it because I’m requesting the prongs to have as little visibility as possible (shared prongs close to the center of each diamond).

To be honest, I’ve never been a big fan of two tone for myself although I have considered it for this setting since five stones in wg/platinum seem to look better. If I decide I really don’t want a two-tone I will probably just play it safe with 18k. I’m sure it will also make matching my future pieces easier since I’m on a mission to convert my pieces to yellow gold one by one.

Does your jeweller have a 20k rose gold alloy of some sort? They might call it something different - red, peach, etc. An alloy that’s higher in copper and low in silver.

 

[AL12]

Does your jeweller have a 20k rose gold alloy of some sort? They might call it something different - red, peach, etc. An alloy that’s higher in copper and low in silver.

It’s DK since I have no need to be mysterious about who I am using.

He has peach gold I believe but peachy or coppery tones don’t flatter my skin color. Warm undertones like olive or brown are more flattering which is why the deeper colors of the higher karat golds are what I’m seeking

 

[Karl_K]

Ask DK about the 18k Dark alloy it's not that common but its not rare either. Some casting houses offer it.

 

[distracts]

It’s DK since I have no need to be mysterious about who I am using.

He has peach gold I believe but peachy or coppery tones don’t flatter my skin color. Warm undertones like olive or brown are more flattering which is why the deeper colors of the higher karat golds are what I’m seeking

20 or 22k with just copper in the alloy will look very close to yellow gold - I wouldn't dismiss it if it's a possibility and you haven't seen it.

 

[AL12]

Ask DK about the 18k Dark alloy it's not that common but its not rare either. Some casting houses offer it.

Okay thank you for the tip! I will!

20 or 22k with just copper in the alloy will look very close to yellow gold - I wouldn't dismiss it if it's a possibility and you haven't seen it.

Do you mean rose gold 20 or 22K with copper? And perhaps this is getting too detailed but would it look more like 22K/24K yellow gold? Which is the tone that prefer.

 

[distracts]

Okay thank you for the tip! I will!



Do you mean rose gold 20 or 22K with copper? And perhaps this is getting too detailed but would it look more like 22K/24K yellow gold? Which is the tone that prefer.

Yes - 20 or 22k rose gold. At that point there's so little alloy at least to me it looks basically all the same.

 

[yssie]

20 or 22k with just copper in the alloy will look very close to yellow gold - I wouldn't dismiss it if it's a possibility and you haven't seen it.

Ditto @distracts.

@AL12 The point here is to avoid silver in the alloy, which adds a hint of green. Which is what gives many western casting facilities' yellows that bright "freshness", and also what makes some unplated white golds err olive. Doesn't matter what your vendor calls it - peach, rose, yellow.

 

[AL12]

Ditto @distracts.

@AL12 The point here is to avoid silver in the alloy, which adds a hint of green. Which is what gives many western casting facilities' yellows that bright "freshness", and also what makes some unplated white golds err olive. Doesn't matter what your vendor calls it - peach, rose, yellow.

Ok got it! Let me try and phrase it that way. I’ll try my best to get as best of a warm gold as possible from DK but if not I think I’ve come to terms with 18k all around versus going two/tones.