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Emerald+'Cognac' Diamond Moi + Toi

fel

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 4, 2011
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498
By popular request in another thread, I thought I would post my 10th anniversary ring story, which actually wasn't completed until we were married about 15 years, and now we are working on anniversary 28!

For our original engagement, we had a cute freeform bezeled diamond ring, that promptly didn't fit me as soon as I got pregnant (intentionally!) 5 months into marriage. After the baby and nursing, and the 2nd baby and nursing was finished, I realized that ring only fit me for a few months of the year -- in summer it was too tight, and in winter too loose. My husband, noticing I was not wearing any rings, arranged a surprise --to have a new wedding and engagement ring made for our 10th anniversary, by the same artist. When he announced this, I said I would love to have a new ring, but nothing is going to fit me year round the way my hands change size, so let's get a right-hand ring by a different artist, just to have something different.

About a year later I bought an untreated emerald from Africa gems -- my very first purchase of a colored gem! Yes that was my gateway stone! I was so nervous about it I immediately had it appraised on Jeweler's row. It was as I recall described as medium green, medium saturated and very lustrous. I loved the glowiness so I kept it. Actually, it looked rather light when unset, but set it just might be my very best colored gemstone to this day.

Then we searched for a setting for about 3 years... not really finding anything that was very exciting. Then one year we were in Bar Harbor on vacation and we went in the studio of an artist named Sam Shaw. He used this hand hammered technique that left metals very lustrous. So, we talked to him about possibly setting my emerald. I also noticed that he had a bunch of "cognac diamond" pieces that were quite beautiful. I had never seen brown diamonds before -- this was before you saw LeVian in every mall. So, I went home and designed a moi & toi for him to make, using my square emerald and his cognac diamond. In order to select a diamond, first he sent me pictures of them all, and we determined that for the design to work as I had imagined the diamond would need to be equal sized to the emerald. Then he kindly sent me all the brown diamonds 2 carats and above that he had in stock, and let me select which one I wanted. I chose the one that was the most orange, darkish one. I'd be curious if you all think I chose correctly...

IMG_9909.jpg The small ones were rejected as not being the right size.

That left these ones....
IMG_9886.jpgIMG_9887.jpg


To be continued....
 
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I couldn't decide among the 5 brown diamond finalists, so he sent them ALL to me and let me select. In the end I chose the one that was the least gold and the most orange. Not only do I love the color orange, but I thought it would give me the best contrast with the green of the emerald and the bright yellow of the 18k gold. IMG_9904.jpg



Now that we had the stones selected, I asked Sam to set the emerald in a kite shape so it would contrast with the circle. I also sent him this tourmaline ring (one he had on his website) as a model of how to bezel it and make a shank:sam-shaw-model.png
 
Well, when he sent the ring, it was perfect -- except, he decided to thin out the shank making it half way as thick, saying he was using "artistic license".

Original thinner shank:
emerald-diamond-sam-shaw6.jpg
anniversary ring.jpg


I promptly sent it back to him asking for the original shank we agreed on. He did it, a bit begrudgingly... but for some reason he never signed the new shank! Anyway, I love the ring with a thicker shank.


Final Shank

emerald-diamond-sam-shaw5.jpg
 
So, it took 5 years to make the ring, but we got it in a bit shy of our 15th anniversary. Now, 13 years later, I still love the ring and it truly looks like new. I can wear it doing any activity and it never gets damaged. Of course, it only fits me a few months a year...

(on wrong finger with these pictures as I cannot hold my phone with my left hand and snap a shot.)
emerald-diamond-hand.jpg
emerald-diamond-hand2.jpg
 
Absolutely stunning. 5 years....but totally worth the wait! (You have the patience of a saint!) :clap: You made the right call insisting on the thicker shank because it's much more balanced with the organic, artisanal feel of the hammered metal.

The yellow gold really complements the richness and saturation of both stones. Orange has been my favorite color since childhood and I recently fell in love with emeralds and got my first stone, though it has moderate treatment and isn't nearly as nice as yours!

Also, you were years ahead of the curve with the toi et moi styling, which has its roots in history but hasn't been seen as often in recent generations. It's very trendy now among the younger generation...you've been rocking it for 13 years! 8) Thank you for sharing this beauty with us! The folks in the Colored Gems forum will go gaga over this!
 
I love the organic feel. Beautiful!
 
Thank you @KristyDarling for your support and for encouraging me to do this post. As I mentioned in the other thread, I have actually posted this ring in a few other threads -- show your bezels and show your emeralds, a very long time ago. Back then everyone liked halos only, and brown-toned diamonds (even if with orange fire) were not considered very desirable. So it was not a pricescope type ring then but it didn't change my view of it.

I will say that the Sam Shaw website still has cognac diamond rings on it, with the price very reasonable given how values on these have changed. https://www.shawjewelry.com/jewelry/rings/Cognac-diamond-twig-ring

I think I represented both the positives and negatives of working with him. In the end, I got impeccable workmanship and exactly what I wanted at a very reasonable price.
 
Wow, such a unique and beautiful ring! Thanks for sharing this with us!
 
What an awesome ring !!!!
 
The colors are beautiful, and beautiful together and beautiful in the yellow gold! Very nice!
 
I loved it in the other thread and i love it here
Also about the thicker shank
i love the yellow goldness of the gold

green is ny favourite colour with orange a close runner up (was a kiddie in the 70s)
And if that's what a cognac diamond looks like im dying of thirst over here
 
So COOL!!
 
Update: I stopped by the store where I got this ring, and they now have lots in this style. I think it set a precedent.

Ahh you are the OG! Often designers are inspired by what their customers create, and this one is lovely!

Out of curiosity, how has the hammered finished stood the test of time? Is this a ring you wear daily?
 
@Pomelo I wear it daily when it fits, but my ring size shifts dramatically winter to summer. So I would say it is worn 3-4 months a year. The hammered finish has definitely smoothed out at the edges. (Glad I didn't opt for even higher carat gold, which was an option when I had it made.) I will try to take a picture to capture this.
 
So here it is -- after 15 years. I believe the first 5 years or so I wore it all the time, and then for the last 10 I wore it only 3-4 months a year. emerald-ring.jpg
 
Very unique, thanks for sharing!

DK :kiss2:
 
So here it is -- after 15 years. I believe the first 5 years or so I wore it all the time, and then for the last 10 I wore it only 3-4 months a year. emerald-ring.jpg

Ooh the texture is lovely, and it captures all the memories of when you wore it :kiss2:
 
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