Emerald Cut Diamond Upgrade

[cannuck]

Hi everyone, I just turned 50 and it’s my 25th wedding anniversary this year, so my DH has decided to get me an upgrade on my engagement ring. I’m looking for an natural ideal cut, emerald shape diamond in the 3-4 carat range. I live very close to NYC and I’m looking for the best gemologist/vendor that either cuts the best emerald diamonds or has an eye for the best cuts since it’s so hard to know if you are getting a beautifully cut stone.
I worked with Mark Turnowski at Brilliantly Engaged for my current 1.74 carat G SI1 3 Ex round and he was wonderful, but I’m not sure he’s the right person for and Emerald cut.
Please, any suggestions would be fantastic since I’m so nervous about getting a dud. Thanks In advance!

 

[EClove]

@Rhino cuts really beautiful lab emeralds so I imagine he has a good eye for emerald cuts. I’m not sure if he also cuts mined stones. Either way, he offers a concierge service for choosing diamonds with online retailers (with great return policies)

Diamond Concierge - Find Me A Diamond Form

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www.distinctivegem.com

 

[cannuck]

@Rhino cuts really beautiful lab emeralds so I imagine he has a good eye for emerald cuts. I’m not sure if he also cuts mined stones. Either way, he offers a concierge service for choosing diamonds with online retailers (with great return policies)

Diamond Concierge - Find Me A Diamond Form

Getting confused on what to search for? Have us find it for you! Enter the criteria below and we will respond back with options within 24 hours. Loading…

www.distinctivegem.com

Thanks so much, EClove! I have watched Rino’s tutorials over the years and really respect his expertise. I bought super ideal diamond studs from Whiteflash a couple of years ago, so it’s great to know he is associated with them. BTW, you rings are absolutely stunning! Do you mind me asking about the specs of your 3 stone ring?

 

[EClove]

Thanks so much, EClove! I have watched Rino’s tutorials over the years and really respect his expertise. I bought super ideal diamond studs from Whiteflash a couple of years ago, so it’s great to know he is associated with them. BTW, you rings are absolutely stunning! Do you mind me asking about the specs of your 3 stone ring?

Oh great! I don’t know that he’s associated with them so much as he can help you examine stones from online sources.

I don’t mind at all! It was a 10 year ering upgrade - lab grown diamonds. Center stone is 2.58 and side stones are .70 ctw (I think?) and my finger is about 5.5. Center stone is H VS1. The stones and setting are both from Frank Darling!

 

[lulu_ma]

Oh you’re lucky to be close to NYC! I think people have had good luck with ID Jewelry for emerald cuts.

 

[clcat120]

If you live near NYC, I recommend you see some vendors in person to get a feel of the EC cut you like. There is no triple-x by certificate for EC, and there are many flavors to the EC shapes and cuts. Shape wise, there are elongated or chubby ones that’s more close to a squares emerald. There are ones that have larger cut corner and may be certified as Cut Corner Rectangular. Cut wise, there are ones with more depth and smaller facets vs shallow cuts with bigger facets that has a more mirror look. In my recent e-ring search, I saw quite a few beautiful ones, but I had a hard time deciding. Also, EC comes at smaller look than it’s counterparts for the same carat weight - something to be aware.

I also saw some stones look very promising online but very leaky in person.

You can check out a bunch of videos I posted in my search at my YouTube channel (just use the following link to find me and you can scroll through a lot of diamond videos I posted for EC).

The most beautiful one is this bulgari 4.89ct H VVS I saw at J. Birnbach. The light dispersion is insane and it’s $135k (the bottom one in the video; the three stone EC has a 4.03ct center stone E VVS and the whole ring is $105k). But I wanted a higher color, so I went with my big face G color oval that I’m very happy with.

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Betteridge in Greenwich (I’ve been a long term customer and my e-ring is from then this time too)

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Kwiat is ok

 

[headlight]

I would ask Brian Gavin to source for you. His eye, expertise, standards, and connections will yield the best of the best.

 

[cannuck]

Oh great! I don’t know that he’s associated with them so much as he can help you examine stones from online sources.

I don’t mind at all! It was a 10 year ering upgrade - lab grown diamonds. Center stone is 2.58 and side stones are .70 ctw (I think?) and my finger is about 5.5. Center stone is H VS1. The stones and setting are both from Frank Darling!

Oh great! I don’t know that he’s associated with them so much as he can help you examine stones from online sources.

I don’t mind at all! It was a 10 year ering upgrade - lab grown diamonds. Center stone is 2.58 and side stones are .70 ctw (I think?) and my finger is about 5.5. Center stone is H VS1. The stones and setting are both from Frank Darling!

Thanks for the link to Rino’s concierge service. I spent some time last night watching the tutorials and definitely will put him on my list to contact.
The length to width ratio of your center stone along with the side stones is perfect for your finger—so beautiful! Do you know what L to W ratio your center stone is?

 

[cannuck]

Oh you’re lucky to be close to NYC! I think people have had good luck with ID Jewelry for emerald cuts.

Thanks, lulu_ma! I feel fortunate to be able to see diamonds in person, so I will check out ID jewelry.

 

[EClove]

Thanks for the link to Rino’s concierge service. I spent some time last night watching the tutorials and definitely will put him on my list to contact.
The length to width ratio of your center stone along with the side stones is perfect for your finger—so beautiful! Do you know what L to W ratio your center stone is?

Yes! It’s 1.44. I originally had the ring made with a different stone (that turned out to be dead in the middle) and it was closer to 1.35 I think and I realized I liked the slightly longer proportions. I just checked and the traps are .76 ctw to the 2.58 center stone

here’s a clearer photo so hopefully you can see the scale. Always surprised with how white it looks even though it’s an H!

 

[cannuck]

Yes! It’s 1.44. I originally had the ring made with a different stone (that turned out to be dead in the middle) and it was closer to 1.35 I think and I realized I liked the slightly longer proportions. I just checked and the traps are .76 ctw to the 2.58 center stone

here’s a clearer photo so hopefully you can see the scale. Always surprised with how white it looks even though it’s an H!

Thanks for the specs, EClove! It really gives me an idea of what the proportions look like on your hand (and it’s perfect!). I’m glad you’re happy with an H because I think that is my sweet spot and I’m not sure if I could go to an I without noticing color. What size is your ring finger? I’m a 61/2, so I’m just curious what it might look like.

 

[cannuck]

I would ask Brian Gavin to source for you. His eye, expertise, standards, and connections will yield the best of the best.

Thanks Headlight, I really trust that Brian Gavin has one of the best eyes in the industry. I really wish he was located in NYC, so I could see diamonds in person.

 

[vintageinjune]

I feel like David at Diamonds by Lauren would be a good choice in helping to select an emerald cut stone.

Jon at Distinctive Gems is always a good choice too.

 

[cannuck]

If you live near NYC, I recommend you see some vendors in person to get a feel of the EC cut you like. There is no triple-x by certificate for EC, and there are many flavors to the EC shapes and cuts. Shape wise, there are elongated or chubby ones that’s more close to a squares emerald. There are ones that have larger cut corner and may be certified as Cut Corner Rectangular. Cut wise, there are ones with more depth and smaller facets vs shallow cuts with bigger facets that has a more mirror look. In my recent e-ring search, I saw quite a few beautiful ones, but I had a hard time deciding. Also, EC comes at smaller look than it’s counterparts for the same carat weight - something to be aware.

I also saw some stones look very promising online but very leaky in person.

You can check out a bunch of videos I posted in my search at my YouTube channel (just use the following link to find me and you can scroll through a lot of diamond videos I posted for EC).

The most beautiful one is this bulgari 4.89ct H VVS I saw at J. Birnbach. The light dispersion is insane and it’s $135k (the bottom one in the video; the three stone EC has a 4.03ct center stone E VVS and the whole ring is $105k). But I wanted a higher color, so I went with my big face G color oval that I’m very happy with.

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Betteridge in Greenwich (I’ve been a long term customer and my e-ring is from then this time too)

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Kwiat is ok

I feel like David at Diamonds by Lauren would be a good choice in helping to select an emerald cut stone.

Jon at Distinctive Gems is always a good choice too.

Thanks Vintageinjune, I’m loving these suggestions!

 

[cannuck]

If you live near NYC, I recommend you see some vendors in person to get a feel of the EC cut you like. There is no triple-x by certificate for EC, and there are many flavors to the EC shapes and cuts. Shape wise, there are elongated or chubby ones that’s more close to a squares emerald. There are ones that have larger cut corner and may be certified as Cut Corner Rectangular. Cut wise, there are ones with more depth and smaller facets vs shallow cuts with bigger facets that has a more mirror look. In my recent e-ring search, I saw quite a few beautiful ones, but I had a hard time deciding. Also, EC comes at smaller look than it’s counterparts for the same carat weight - something to be aware.

I also saw some stones look very promising online but very leaky in person.

You can check out a bunch of videos I posted in my search at my YouTube channel (just use the following link to find me and you can scroll through a lot of diamond videos I posted for EC).

The most beautiful one is this bulgari 4.89ct H VVS I saw at J. Birnbach. The light dispersion is insane and it’s $135k (the bottom one in the video; the three stone EC has a 4.03ct center stone E VVS and the whole ring is $105k). But I wanted a higher color, so I went with my big face G color oval that I’m very happy with.

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Betteridge in Greenwich (I’ve been a long term customer and my e-ring is from then this time too)

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Kwiat is ok

Clcat120, I’m so thankful for all your input and posts for me to check out, it was really fun and helpful and has given me food for thought. I spent a couple of hours looking at your posts and the vendors on Instagram! Amazing!!
As for your new ring with the “to die for” oval center stone, absolutely stunning on you—drop dead gorgeous! I’m curious to know if you were set on a emerald cut diamond and were frustrated in your search for the look you wanted, so moved on to another shape. I fear that I’ve always had a soft spot for a beautiful emerald cut, but will miss the sparkle that I have in my round brilliant. Ugh…I guess I really need to just go out and look.

 

[EClove]

Thanks for the specs, EClove! It really gives me an idea of what the proportions look like on your hand (and it’s perfect!). I’m glad you’re happy with an H because I think that is my sweet spot and I’m not sure if I could go to an I without noticing color. What size is your ring finger? I’m a 61/2, so I’m just curious what it might look like.

yay! I think my ring is either 5.25 or 5.5, so not too far off. I did notice the color on the I had (attached here). They were both lab diamonds, both graded by IGI. I attached a some photos of the other diamond so you can see - it was also a little squattier which I realized I didn't prefer. (Shout out to Frank Darling who exchanged the diamond and remade the ring for free!)

 

[cannuck]

yay! I think my ring is either 5.25 or 5.5, so not too far off. I did notice the color on the I had (attached here). They were both lab diamonds, both graded by IGI. I attached a some photos of the other diamond so you can see - it was also a little squattier which I realized I didn't prefer. (Shout out to Frank Darling who exchanged the diamond and remade the ring for free!)

I might be a 5 1/2 or 6 on a cold winter day when my hands aren’t swollen!Thanks for the pictures. I can see a little bit of warmth in the stone, so an I might might not work for me. Thanks for all you replies and help!!

 

[cannuck]

I might be a 5 1/2 or 6 on a cold winter day when my hands aren’t swollen! Thanks for the pictures. I can see a little bit of warmth in the stone, so an I might might not work for me. Thanks for all you replies and help!!

 

[clcat120]

Clcat120, I’m so thankful for all your input and posts for me to check out, it was really fun and helpful and has given me food for thought. I spent a couple of hours looking at your posts and the vendors on Instagram! Amazing!!
As for your new ring with the “to die for” oval center stone, absolutely stunning on you—drop dead gorgeous! I’m curious to know if you were set on a emerald cut diamond and were frustrated in your search for the look you wanted, so moved on to another shape. I fear that I’ve always had a soft spot for a beautiful emerald cut, but will miss the sparkle that I have in my round brilliant. Ugh…I guess I really need to just go out and look.

Hi there -- I am glad that my videos helped. I made a lot of them during my recent e-ring search. I LOVE a gorgeous EC cut. I LOVE the step-cut. So yes, I set out to find a EC that’s better than my own 3.62ct J VS1 asscher/sq emerald that’s I’ve been wearing for a few years. We had a handsome budget, but I could not find an EC that looks meaningfully bigger than my 3.62 as it has a 62.5% depth and close to 9x9mm face. After looking at a bunch of ECs, I concluded that the EC I like, with a grace and regal I am hoping for, will have to be at least 7-8ct. Obviously, thats above our budget now for a higher color EC. Once the stone gets a bit bigger, you can get fatter facets and not sacrifice on the depth. I really dislike the conventional skinny faceting pattern in EC/Sq EC/asscher.

Most ECs I saw in the $120K range are pretty generic except for that Bulgari H color stone that I really thought was way out of my budget (so didnt even ask for the price). That H color sq EC at Betteridge was also beautifulllll, but it's too close to the size/look of my current asscher and more expensive to that oval.

That oval, has a bit wonky cut as it has a middle section with larger facets. It has a bit antique cushion feel to it and set well with the trap side stones, which are step cuts. I do NOT like the crushed ice look of most oval and cushion. This oval is cut shallow too, which is why it has a face as big as a 5-6ct oval (14.4x9.3). Betteridge also gave me a bit friends & family price including the remodel, so it same down to a no brainer (the whole ring was unders $100K and we shipped it to a friend in a state with no tax). It is a very clean VS2, and I could not see anything really under a 10x loupe at all.

So a few things I learned for your food for thought:

1. I always advocate seeing the stone in person -- at least twice in different lighting. Compare it with other shape and color at the same time for evaluation. To me this time, it was always about "better than my current assher" as the base-line standard.

2. I seem to favor shallow stones for a bigger look. One thing I like relatively shallow stone is that it does not create a bulge on my finger. I like to put my hands in my pocket and wear my ring to bed, so a bulge will not be convenient. But you really need to see this type of stones in person.

3. Love a second hand stone because you can potentially get a good deal if the store acquired it cheap somehow. You need to see the ring actually (not just the stone), and you need to love it. Evaluating a stone without setting, it’s a bit hard and unfair, to be honest.

I highly recommend you see some 3-4ct EC to decide if it is something you want for your well-deserved upgrade! If it looks not big enough, I'd recommend considering oval (6 main vs 8 main) and a bit elongated cushion (with larger faceting). Bear in mind that oval shows color more than EC, so you may have to go higher in color if you are sensitive in general.

Happy to rant more if you have any further thought.

 

[clcat120]

Clcat120, I’m so thankful for all your input and posts for me to check out, it was really fun and helpful and has given me food for thought. I spent a couple of hours looking at your posts and the vendors on Instagram! Amazing!!
As for your new ring with the “to die for” oval center stone, absolutely stunning on you—drop dead gorgeous! I’m curious to know if you were set on a emerald cut diamond and were frustrated in your search for the look you wanted, so moved on to another shape. I fear that I’ve always had a soft spot for a beautiful emerald cut, but will miss the sparkle that I have in my round brilliant. Ugh…I guess I really need to just go out and look.

Just uploaded another one from my viewing of some stone from James Allen. I found three stones in high 4-5ct range that I could see in person. This one is E and a bit over 5ct… but let me know if you can see meaningful improvement/upgrade to my J color ring. Also, this one was cut so poorly that the stone is a bit leaky (you can see my hand underneath the table that’s not through the windows of the diamond). This one had a lot of potential when viewed online.

Online: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/5.01-carat-e-color-vs2-clarity-sku-12360734

Real life: https://youtube.com/shorts/uk9-feQJDIY?feature=share

When I see stone, I bring a magnifier, my ASET scope, that little ring tweezer so you can clamp the stone and sorta try on.

 

[clcat120]

One more comparison of the two cuts… the smaller sparkles presented in the oval is more prominent in person vs on a video. The EC will produce more intense light dispersion when angel is right… the oval is overall more sparkly. The G vs J is quite visible.