Finding a gem to fit a setting

[Bling_of_Fire]

I recently reset my center stone from my e-ring and was wondering how to go about choosing a gem for the setting as it’s a specific size with a bezel and not prongs. It’s was built around and for my original center stone. I’ve read that some of you have actually had people cut stones for you etc. but do you give these cutters measurements and/or do they also set the stones? Or could I just give them measurements for finding one? Or just any advice for finding one in general? I’m attaching a pic of the empty setting. The miligrain was scraped off in the process of removing the stone - 3rd pic shows it w center before removal.

 

[dk168]

Sorry, I meant to respond to this thread when I read it on my phone, and forgot!

BTW, please allow PSers some time to respond, as many of us have a life outside PS. Bump the thread up if necessary, however, please be patient.

For CSs, the usual advice is to find the stone first, then the setting, and not the other way round.

Apart from width and length, one needs to consider the depth of the stone, as some CSs are cut quite deep to bring out the best of the CS.

Nowadays, I commission CSs from two lapidary artists, namely Jeff White of J L White Fine Gemstones as in whitesgems.com, and Gary Braun of Finewater Gems asin finewatergems.com.

I know Jeff can cut to size to fit an existing setting and at least one PSer has asked him to do that.

Gary is not keen to cut to size - I asked him about having a number of lab stones cut to a specific dimension for a ring or pendant with interchangeable stones, and he responded he does not like to cut calibrated stones.

In order to have a stone cut to fit an existing setting, one needs to provide very accurate measurements to the lapidary artist.

I believe this can be achieved by using a pair of calipers by someone with knowledge and experience how to take measurements. However, to be on the safe side, I would suggest to ask the bench (assuming you have found one that is happy to set stones purchased elsewhere) that you intend to use for setting the stone to measure the setting for you.

Some rework/repair would need to be made to a bezel setting after a stone has been taken out. Therefore, please make sure the bench is sufficiently skilled to do that to avoid disappointment.

All the above based on my own limited knowledge and experience.

Hope this helps.

DK

 

[chrono]

There might be some wiggle room if you modify the setting to prong set, unless you want to keep it as a bezel setting.

 

[Bling_of_Fire]

For some reason I didn't get alerts to these responses so thank you @dk168 for your detailed reply. I'm sorry if I seemed impatient . Newish to the forum but have been reading alot before joining; noticed that some threads get replies quickly and others not at all. Yes I understand that it would be ideal to pick gem first; just was in a situation where I reset the center stone of this ring and so now have the setting hence the reverse order. And @chrono yes you are probably correct that prongs would be easier. I do quite like the bezel and it's 22k gold as well; I would assume that gold would need to be scraped out of there (probably not using the right terminology). I was thinking a red or green stone like tsavorite or rhodolite (less pricey than emerald or ruby) or maybe even grayish blue spinel...thank you for the recommendations.

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

Sorry I don't have any advice, @jazzhands as I haven't gone through the commission route before. Closest I came was to ask for an idea of how much a stone cut to the specs I was looking would cost. The response I got was $500 was their minimum requirement for taking on a job, but most buyers are commissioning $1000+ pieces. That was a few years ago. And it was with just 1 vendor.

 

[dk168]

Jeff W has a minimum charge for custom work, and his T&Cs are very detailed and available from his website.

I do not believe Gary B or Doug Menadue of Bespoke Gems have a minimum charge.

DK

 

[chrono]

I have commissioned stones but never to a specific dimension. Shape and colour only. Prior to cutting, I was given an estimate of the final ct weight and mm size, which I approved before proceeding.

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

@jazzhands Have you asked your bench how much wiggle room you have with the bezel?

 

[Bling_of_Fire]

@jazzhands Have you asked your bench how much wiggle room you have with the bezel?

Not yet no. It won’t happen for awhile bc I just got a new setting for the center stone that was removed. So I’m more thinking of future options. It might be so costly that selling the setting would be the way to go but we will see.