First Timer, oval engagement ring setting custom design- help please!

[Regenbogen]

Hi everyone,
I hope it is ok for me to post here, I have seen some posts suggesting lab diamonds which is what I am going for so please let me know if that;s not allowed.
I am currently designing a new setting for my engagement ring diamond since I changed my mind on what style I want and would like to add a halo and pave band. Mined center diamond is oval and 1ct.
I have had such trouble having the original jewler set my stone into a setting that left a awkward gab between the halo and the center stone because it wasn't custum and decided to go the cursom route made in China and have my diamond set into the custom made setting here in US (please also let me know if anyone has ever done that and if that's possible). I found this shop on Ebay that has tons of great reviews and seems to have great prices.
Here are pics of what I originally wanted and what I am considering to do:

https://imgur.com/a/RKs9AFG

My questions:

• I heard that a pave band should be no smaller than 1.8 mm thickness and 2 mm width to be relatively sturdy and not compromise diamonds falling out all the time. I would love to keep the band as slim looking as possibly but also want it to be sturdy and honestly would hate to run to the jeweler all the time to get diamonds replaced so please let me know if this sounds like a good option and which metal you recommend it to be set in. I was possibly considering rose gold as an option but also might just go with white gold or platinum.
• I love the look of a peg head but I have heard that it makes it quite vulnerable for the head to be fully pulled off. I am terrified of losing my center stone and or damaging it a lot, I had insurance coverage from the original jewelry store chain my husband bought the engagement ring from so he would lose it if the remake would end up causing the whole diamond to be lost and I would love it since it has not just a lot of momentary value but also won't ever be able to be replaced for the sentimental value. so long story short I am considering adding cathedral legs? or whatever that's called on the side to support the setting and diamond. Please let me know if you think that would make s big difference and or if I could get it pretty secure with just having the setting be on the lower side or as seen as in the other pictures.
• Lastly, I am considering adding a second row of pave to the side of the halo and am wondering if that would make the whole pave halo more vulnerable to losing diamonds or if it is basically just another row that could lose diamonds but doesn't make the top part of the halo more likely to lose any of the mini diamonds.
• ALso please let me know if there is any other concerns you can point out I would love to hear your feedback.

I will get a CAD from the shop before they make the ring but I just want to be giving them the correct info as much as I can (i.e. what I chose for safety vs just my design goals) so I don;t have to change them later on a lot.

Thanks in advance for all your help! This has been such a great place for me to learn from!

 

[tyty333]

I'll answer your question from the other thread here (and not mess up that thread).

True, if the custom cad designer does not have the stone in hand then they may not get the measurements quite right.
Some ovals have "shoulders" on them and some are very lean. Your cad designer most likely only has 2 measurements
to go by (Length X Width). There is a good chance they will get close and hopefully, it will be close enough but if you are
very sensitive and paranoid about how the setting "fits" the stone then you probably should have your stone sent to the
CAD designer.

Edit...I would think with a 1 carat stone that they would be able to get very close.

 

[Regenbogen]

I'll answer your question from the other thread here (and not mess up that thread).

True, if the custom cad designer does not have the stone in hand then they may not get the measurements quite right.
Some ovals have "shoulders" on them and some are very lean. Your cad designer most likely only has 2 measurements
to go by (Length X Width). There is a good chance they will get close and hopefully, it will be close enough but if you are
very sensitive and paranoid about how the setting "fits" the stone then you probably should have your stone sent to the
CAD designer.

Edit...I would think with a 1 carat stone that they would be able to get very close.

Thanks sooo much! I've been worrying about this since it would be a big price difference ($1000 extra for stone in hand bc it's with a different jeweler). It's good to know that it matters less with a smaller 1ct diamond.

 

[rockysalamander]

Given that you are unhappy with your current setting, I would not recommend buying a new setting in the way you described for a non-standard sized and symmetrical stone. I think you have a high chance of being unhappy with the outcome. A well-made and fit halo really needs to fit an individual stone. What I often see is people using inspiration from master makers or high-end makers and then expecting that quality from a different maker. Another issue is that you don't know the cut and quality of the melee -- which you will be looking at every day. I'd really think carefully about this approach. At least get quotes from some known PS vendors. FWW...my rule when buying from unknown overseas vendor is --am I willing to lose the money if I hate the thing? {does not fit, poorly made, does not match picture}. Because...getting a refund is near impossible.

I heard that a pave band should be no smaller than 1.8 mm thickness and 2 mm width to be relatively sturdy and not compromise diamonds falling out all the time...
This is the typical size recommended for pave and cast rings. I would not go smaller, in fact, I'd suggest you have the bottom wider and then it can taper at the top. As an analogy...you drive your car a lot...rain and shine, rough roads and snow. Do you want your car to be delicate? Stylish...sure...but not delicate. A ring you will wear every day is like a car. You need it to withstand your lifestyle and wear for a LONG time.

I love the look of a peg head but I have heard that it makes it quite vulnerable for the head to be fully pulled off. I am terrified of losing my center stone and or damaging it a lot, I had insurance coverage from the original jewelry store chain my husband bought the engagement ring from so he would lose it if the remake...
First, check the insurance coverage from the company your bought the stone from. I'd be surprised (shocked actually) if they would cover any damage or loss from a setting they did not make/source, set the stone into, and maintain (annual checks). Those policies also typically require you go to "their" diamond or setting source and not one of your choosing. So, you may not even have the coverage you think you do. That may be important for you to consider.

Relative to peg heads. Yes, a peg head is absolutely more risky than a non-peghead. That is not to say that all rings that lack a cathedral shoulder are risky. Hand-formed rings are stronger. You can also have the prongs attach to the shank from four/six individual points that provides more support. The less you want your band to fit flush, the more options you have to deal with structure and still get that look of a stone over a band. But, for a cast ring from an unknown overseas vendor, I'd have serious concerns of relying on a peghead.

This ring from Laruen B shows the wide-base foe the pegs I mentioned.

RS-63 Engagement Ring from Lauren B: a Crowd Favorite

Lauren B specializes in custom engagement ring design, loose diamonds, fine jewelry, moissanites and more. Browse online or in our New York store

www.laurenbjewelry.com

Lastly, I am considering adding a second row of pave to the side of the halo and am wondering if that would make the whole pave halo more vulnerable to losing diamonds or if it is basically just another row that could lose diamonds but doesn't make the top part of the halo more likely to lose any of the mini diamonds.
The fact that you have stones on the sides does make them more vulnerable to hits from that direction. Any ring, but especially pave, really stands or falls on the quality of the maker. Setting pave used to be a master skill which now many are doing on their own. Sometimes to wonderful outcome and sometimes its a total disaster.

Other
If you have wedding band, take that into considering on the height of the head. I generally want my rings as low as possible, but that is personal. Just make sure your wedding band will work with the CAD you end up going with.

Ebay reviews. Honestly, I find they mostly unreliable and fake for many overseas jewelry vendors -- who are often all the same company under many different names. It does not mean they are not good, but that you have to really do your homework. Check the specific vendor with folks here or on any of the many other boards that focus on rings.

I think this ring matches what you are describing.

14K White Gold Falling Edge Pavé Diamond Engagement Ring

SKU 49492 - The pavé falls over the edge of this smashing diamond halo ring, creating an impressive display of fireworks and light play. Set with the center diamond or gemstone of your choice, it is sure to be a sensation. *Please allow additional time for fancy shape diamonds and gemstones.*

www.jamesallen.com

 

[Regenbogen]

Given that you are unhappy with your current setting, I would not recommend buying a new setting in the way you described for a non-standard sized and symmetrical stone. I think you have a high chance of being unhappy with the outcome. A well-made and fit halo really needs to fit an individual stone. What I often see is people using inspiration from master makers or high-end makers and then expecting that quality from a different maker. Another issue is that you don't know the cut and quality of the melee -- which you will be looking at every day. I'd really think carefully about this approach. At least get quotes from some known PS vendors. FWW...my rule when buying from unknown overseas vendor is --am I willing to lose the money if I hate the thing? {does not fit, poorly made, does not match picture}. Because...getting a refund is near impossible.

I heard that a pave band should be no smaller than 1.8 mm thickness and 2 mm width to be relatively sturdy and not compromise diamonds falling out all the time...
This is the typical size recommended for pave and cast rings. I would not go smaller, in fact, I'd suggest you have the bottom wider and then it can taper at the top. As an analogy...you drive your car a lot...rain and shine, rough roads and snow. Do you want your car to be delicate? Stylish...sure...but not delicate. A ring you will wear every day is like a car. You need it to withstand your lifestyle and wear for a LONG time.

I love the look of a peg head but I have heard that it makes it quite vulnerable for the head to be fully pulled off. I am terrified of losing my center stone and or damaging it a lot, I had insurance coverage from the original jewelry store chain my husband bought the engagement ring from so he would lose it if the remake...
First, check the insurance coverage from the company your bought the stone from. I'd be surprised (shocked actually) if they would cover any damage or loss from a setting they did not make/source, set the stone into, and maintain (annual checks). Those policies also typically require you go to "their" diamond or setting source and not one of your choosing. So, you may not even have the coverage you think you do. That may be important for you to consider.

Relative to peg heads. Yes, a peg head is absolutely more risky than a non-peghead. That is not to say that all rings that lack a cathedral shoulder are risky. Hand-formed rings are stronger. You can also have the prongs attach to the shank from four/six individual points that provides more support. The less you want your band to fit flush, the more options you have to deal with structure and still get that look of a stone over a band. But, for a cast ring from an unknown overseas vendor, I'd have serious concerns of relying on a peghead.

This ring from Laruen B shows the wide-base foe the pegs I mentioned.

RS-63 Engagement Ring from Lauren B: a Crowd Favorite

Lauren B specializes in custom engagement ring design, loose diamonds, fine jewelry, moissanites and more. Browse online or in our New York store

www.laurenbjewelry.com

Lastly, I am considering adding a second row of pave to the side of the halo and am wondering if that would make the whole pave halo more vulnerable to losing diamonds or if it is basically just another row that could lose diamonds but doesn't make the top part of the halo more likely to lose any of the mini diamonds.
The fact that you have stones on the sides does make them more vulnerable to hits from that direction. Any ring, but especially pave, really stands or falls on the quality of the maker. Setting pave used to be a master skill which now many are doing on their own. Sometimes to wonderful outcome and sometimes its a total disaster.

Other
If you have wedding band, take that into considering on the height of the head. I generally want my rings as low as possible, but that is personal. Just make sure your wedding band will work with the CAD you end up going with.

Ebay reviews. Honestly, I find they mostly unreliable and fake for many overseas jewelry vendors -- who are often all the same company under many different names. It does not mean they are not good, but that you have to really do your homework. Check the specific vendor with folks here or on any of the many other boards that focus on rings.

I think this ring matches what you are describing.

14K White Gold Falling Edge Pavé Diamond Engagement Ring

SKU 49492 - The pavé falls over the edge of this smashing diamond halo ring, creating an impressive display of fireworks and light play. Set with the center diamond or gemstone of your choice, it is sure to be a sensation. *Please allow additional time for fancy shape diamonds and gemstones.*

www.jamesallen.com

Thanks so so much for your detailed reply! I have decided against the ebay seller- at the very least for the halo part. THat really does sound risky. The insurance I had definitely will be voided so I would have to get my own insurance if I wanted to. I did speak with a wholesale jeweler in Downtown LA and she had very good prices for a custom CAD setting and ring made for my diamond but also said she does not need the diamond in hand she will just place it in at the end when I am coming in to pick it up with me watching. This jeweler also would offer free cleaning and replacement of any of the pave diamonds falling out so I am considering her but just not sure how well she would be able to make the custom CAD mold fit my diamond later on. It would save me around $1000 and make replacements of small stones and cleaning soo easy for me but I may just go with Steven Kirsch. SInce getting the pave band from him as well would be out of my budget- do you have any thoughts of just getting a standard band from China or the local jewler and having Steven make the custom halo for that band?

 

[rockysalamander]

Thanks so so much for your detailed reply! I have decided against the ebay seller- at the very least for the halo part. THat really does sound risky. The insurance I had definitely will be voided so I would have to get my own insurance if I wanted to. I did speak with a wholesale jeweler in Downtown LA and she had very good prices for a custom CAD setting and ring made for my diamond but also said she does not need the diamond in hand she will just place it in at the end when I am coming in to pick it up with me watching. This jeweler also would offer free cleaning and replacement of any of the pave diamonds falling out so I am considering her but just not sure how well she would be able to make the custom CAD mold fit my diamond later on. It would save me around $1000 and make replacements of small stones and cleaning soo easy for me but I may just go with Steven Kirsch. SInce getting the pave band from him as well would be out of my budget- do you have any thoughts of just getting a standard band from China or the local jewler and having Steven make the custom halo for that band?

Steven Kirsch is an excellent maker and has a solid reputation. You might also look at David Klass in LA and Distinctive Gems (@Rhino) on the east coast US to get a price on each ring.

If you feel you are happy to buy overseas for either ring, go for it. Again, I'm only willing to risk enough money that I can lose if I don't like the thing I bought (or its terrible, wrong color, wrong size, etc.).

If you buy a pave band now, then a maker would make a future halo e-ring that fits with that ring. That is one of the benefits of custom. You can make sure that the two rings fit. If you buy an halo e-ring now and a band later. The band would just need to fit under the halo. The maker of the e-ring and the two rings does not need to be the same maker, although it is can be convenient. A number of PS member have diamond bands from WF, WolfCBI or Brian Gavin that was bought before, after or in addition to another ring. If you can't afford two rings right now (welcome to the club), then which one is more important to you? You can always wear an E-ring with a plain solid wedding band. That solid band can become a stacker if you upgrade in the future. You could also put your oval diamond into a simple solitaire setting for now, and focus on the band.

I think that it is important that the melee cut/quality are similar between your two rings.

You seem hesitant to hand over your diamond, which I can understand. But, I will say a number of us have mailed diamonds nd valuable colored stones (some PS members have 4+ carat diamonds) accross the country to Steven Kirsch, David Klass or any number of other makers. I did so and made sure I had Jeweler's Mutual coverage for my stone and its travels.

You might also look at LoupeTroop and DiamondBistro. Many PS member use those locations to sell their rings. Diamond bands come up at some frequency.. Just be mindful of your finger size and the ring size. PS members usually post items for sale here and often at a PS member discount (or first dibs).
https://www.pricescope.com/community/forums/preloved-ps-jewels.92/

 

[tyty333]

- do you have any thoughts of just getting a standard band from China or the local jewler and having Steven make the custom halo for that band?

What do you mean by have Steven make the custom halo for the band? Are you talking a separate wedding band or are you talking about the shank (band) the halo goes on?

Anywho, David Klass does excellent work at a pretty decent price. You can get a mailing label from him so your stone is insured while in the mail.

What is your budget for this project? I haven't had Dk do a halo for me or I would give you a ball park price.

 

[Regenbogen]

What do you mean by have Steven make the custom halo for the band? Are you talking a separate wedding band or are you talking about the shank (band) the halo goes on?

Anywho, David Klass does excellent work at a pretty decent price. You can get a mailing label from him so your stone is insured while in the mail.

What is your budget for this project? I haven't had Dk do a halo for me or I would give you a ball park price.

The overall budget is $1500 so really not much for a custom design but the only way my fiancé is letting me add it on right now haha. I have reached out to David Klass which would be great because I‘d save shipping costs (I live close to LA) and I heard great things about his work. Also in case a pave diamond falls out I could get it repaired by him. And yes I was considering having Steven just add halo and have the shank for that engagement ring be done in China without a setting on top/ simple setting that Steven can take off and add new setting plus halo. I would definitely ship my diamond to Steven as well.

 

[tyty333]

Ok, I think DK would be a good match for you. I think you should stick with a single halo around your stone (no stones on the side of
the halo). I'm not sure if he can fit it in your $1500 price range. We'll have to wait for the quote. (fingers crossed)

Have you seen DKs IG pages?

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BTW...Steven Kirsch is a master. I'm sure you'd be looking at $4k+ for this setting. I'm almost positive that he would not do
just the halo so you could add it to some other band. That would be an unusual request for any designer/master and I dont
think I would be going out on a limb to say that the answer would be a resoundingly "no".

Edit...Your budget is low for what you want. I think you're either going to have to let something go on your design or wait
and save up more funds for this project. (we all have to deal with our wants not matching our budget...it can be frustrating).

 

[rockysalamander]

The overall budget is $1500 so really not much for a custom design but the only way my fiancé is letting me add it on right now haha. I have reached out to David Klass which would be great because I‘d save shipping costs (I live close to LA) and I heard great things about his work. Also in case a pave diamond falls out I could get it repaired by him. And yes I was considering having Steven just add halo and have the shank for that engagement ring be done in China without a setting on top/ simple setting that Steven can take off and add new setting plus halo. I would definitely ship my diamond to Steven as well.

You can't have a halo added to a shank made elsewhere. They would dismantle the shank, credit you some amount for the metal, and need to rebuild the entire ring.

 

[Regenbogen]

Ok, I think DK would be a good match for you. I think you should stick with a single halo around your stone (no stones on the side of
the halo). I'm not sure if he can fit it in your $1500 price range. We'll have to wait for the quote. (fingers crossed)

Have you seen DKs IG pages?

Login • Instagram

Welcome back to Instagram. Sign in to check out what your friends, family & interests have been capturing & sharing around the world.

www.instagram.com

BTW...Steven Kirsch is a master. I'm sure you'd be looking at $4k+ for this setting. I'm almost positive that he would not do
just the halo so you could add it to some other band. That would be an unusual request for any designer/master and I dont
think I would be going out on a limb to say that the answer would be a resoundingly "no".

Edit...Your budget is low for what you want. I think you're either going to have to let something go on your design or wait
and save up more funds for this project. (we all have to deal with our wants not matching our budget...it can be frustrating).

Thanks for all the information! Yes, I do notice that the more research I do. I am debating between going the cheap route of just CAD mold and save a lot of money but I think the other two options (David Klass vs Steven Kirsch) are a better fit because I am more particular than your average person and I just would hate to waste another $750 for something that won't fit well. Can you speak to the difference between David Klass and Steven Kirsch's work on halos specifically or just in general? How similar will the end result be?

 

[tyty333]

What is your budget again?

 

[Cerulean]

I’d also get a quote from Maytal Hannah

she is very competitively priced compared to other vendors that do hand forged work and she does spectacular halos and is as sweet as pie

 

[Regenbogen]

I was hoping to stay at $1500. I could pay more but realistically I don't know if I do value the pave on the second-row halo or pave under the halo on the setting (not sure what that is called) as much since it is a re-do anyway and my fiance already spent a lot of money on it.

 

[Regenbogen]

Is David's work hand forged as well? Does he do the halos with less metal showing similar to Steven Kirsch?

 

[Cerulean]

Is David's work hand forged as well? Does he do the halos with less metal showing similar to Steven Kirsch?

That “less metal” look truly is hand forged work. The best pave I’ve seen is hand forged

I do not think David does hand forged, but you can ask

he works with great benches, you’d have to ask for his “uber” bench to get the best work

 

[tyty333]

I've mentioned this before but I need to touch on it again. You do not have the budget for a designer setting. $1500 is probably not enough for David Klass.

Perhaps you should get quotes from Steven Kirsh, Maytal Hannah, and Victor Canera. If they fit in your budget then we can go into detail over who would be better for this design.

 

[Regenbogen]

That “less metal” look truly is hand forged work. The best pave I’ve seen is hand forged

I do not think David does hand forged, but you can ask

he works with great benches, you’d have to ask for his “uber” bench to get the best work

Yes you are right! I am reconsidering my budget and depending on the value I get would be willing to spend more if I know I just won't be as happy with other results that I also spend money on and just end up wanting it to be re-done.

 

[tyty333]

Great... Then you should get some quotes and see if your budget will stretch. If so, there are lots of examples of the different masters/vendors on PS and I'm sure we (PSers) can help you figure out which one would be your best fit. Lots of PSers have used the different designers.