Help finding Emeralds

[Beautiful-disaster]

Hi Ps’ers,

Hoping for some guidance here.
The picture below is of what is left of my mother’s engagement ring. It used to have a big dark green emerald in the centre. It was given to my sister. The emerald broke after getting hit in things too many times (it sits high off the hand which always bothered my mother as she knew it would break).
After many years my sister’s partner who had never given her an ER decided to have the stone replaced.
I can’t remember what stone he said it was at the time but it presents black (although it’s very very dark green).
My sister was devastated. She hates it. On a personal level I’m unhappy that it wasn’t restored to its original beauty as my mother and father have passed away so it has large sentimental value.
I want to find her an emerald to put into the ring to replace whatever the black stone is.
All I have at the moment is this picture because she is in another city 800kms away with a closed boarder.
I have requested more pictures and measurements from her but she isn’t exactly forthcoming with them (not sure why - last time I spoke to her she offered to give it to me permanently and I said no because I got my sapphire from dads side and she got the ring from mums side ... it’s possible it now reminds her of her cheating partner that has moved on because of the stone and how he always got everything wrong this being a perfect example, I also think it may not fit her anymore (?))
Anyway I can spend up to $1000 maybe more if she decides to throw in for it when I find the right stone.
That’s Australian Dollars (which isn’t great). Also we have a new tax boarder thing happening now where if I purchase something over $1000 we have to pay tax.
Not concerned about clarity (to a point) - but want a really nice deep green with a good cut in the same size so the setting doesn’t have to be altered.

Am I best to source this stone online and then have a jeweller swap the stones - (my original intention) or better to find a jeweller tell them the budget and give them the ring (which I’m pretty sure is what her partner did and where it all went wrong as he insisted the stone presented green before it was set).

Lastly is this even possible within our budget? While not against a created stone obvious preference would be for a natural one.
Anywhere you suggest I start looking?

Will add more photos once I manage to get some.

 

[Bron357]

The cost of a big emerald will be a lot more than $1,000 unfortunately AND I wouldn’t put an emerald back in anyway.
Emeralds are brittle gems and to have only 4 corner prongs on a big gem with huge expanse of unprotected girdle it’s another broken / chipped emerald before you know it.
I would go for a quality lab created sapphire or Spinel. That way you get a good sturdy gemstone at a price point that won’t make you cry and you can get it cut to fit the setting.
For natural gemstones at a more affordable price point you could consider Amethyst, Prasiolite (green Amethyst), Citrine (shade of yellow) Garnet (red) Blue Topaz (always irradiated for colour but still pretty) or Smoky Quartz. Lab grown Sapphire and Spinel come in virtually all colours, some look very very beautiful too with great cutting.

 

[Bron357]

And re taxes into Australia. Yes GST is 10% and unfortunately it can now be applied to any overseas purchase from $1 upwards especially if you use eBay, Etsy, Amazon.
Other than that, purchases over $1,000 it is 10% GST plus import taxes as applicable. And processing fees (between $55 and ? Depending on who does the import clearance). Different products have different customs so can be an extra 5% or 10% On top of GST. There’s a schedule you can check, prepare to go cross eyed! And there are also free trade agreements that reduce on eliminate the Customs tax (never the GST) on certain items from certain countries. That’s a whole other rabbit warren to go down.

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

Unfortunately it has to be an emerald. Not only is it my sisters birthstone but I can’t see either of us bothering with the expense for it to be less of a ring.
I was under the impression that emeralds came in all classes and prices. So if we didn’t want something of high quality we would be able to get the size we needed.
We have the option of breaking apart the Carved emerald bracelet to see if any of the emeralds are suitable for a recut. Two of them aren’t actually carved so I’m assuming one of them. They have good colour and clarity.
I’m trying to stop this being the option.
But in having trouble finding somewhere that has the emeralds so I can prove them accordingly.
I mean I have found sellers but I don’t know if they are trustworthy or not.
As I said we can pay more - I just don’t want to. If the right stone was $2000-$3000 we would consider it seriously.
I have seen the stones available .... trying to stay away from oiled and created all together.

I was considering an emerald green Peridot but couldn’t find one in an appropriate emerald cut.

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

We are also hoping to have the gallery lowered so I guess changing the setting size for the stone may be an option as well.

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

I keep finding stones like this... and while it’s n out the cut I want - the colour isn’t bad and it says natural no treatments. Aussie dollar... what am I missing?
I really don’t want to throw my money away on crap.

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewellery, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

 

[LemonMoonLex]

I keep finding stones like this... and while it’s n out the cut I want - the colour isn’t bad and it says natural no treatments. Aussie dollar... what am I missing?
I really don’t want to throw my money away on crap.

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewellery, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

Unless you pay for a report from a credible lab which would be over half of the price of the gemstone you linked - with these vendors there's honestly no telling.

& When I mean "no telling", I don't mean that you may hit the lottery and one might just be oiled, no, I mean that it's highly likely that the emeralds are treated out the ying-yang, not just oiled & you ultimately have no idea what they're using.

Sadly, for an ok emerald with the color you want, in a size that would fit that setting it's going to cost much more than a few thousand. I also have to agree with Bron In that this setting, while beautiful & so meaningful to you both, just isn't suited for a natural emerald to be worn. Emeralds can last a lifetime but they must be set in very protective settings & worn cautiously. Your mother was incredibly smart for being frustrated with the setting as it ultimately caused the untimely demise of her emerald.

I would really consider replacing the dark green gem with something else & custom creating your own emerald ring inspired by this one. With much more protection & with an emerald that's a bit smaller but killer! I know we all would love to help you find one!

I'm sorry if this isn't what you want to hear but I promise that we all just really want everyone to be happy with their jewelry & get a gorgeous gemstone!

**Also note that it took me years of searching for my perfect emerald to find it, & emeralds can be a different breed altogether.**

Whatever you do I hope you end up with a solution that makes both you & your family happy ♥

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

Unfortunately it has to be an emerald. Not only is it my sisters birthstone but I can’t see either of us bothering with the expense for it to be less of a ring.
I was under the impression that emeralds came in all classes and prices. So if we didn’t want something of high quality we would be able to get the size we needed.
We have the option of breaking apart the Carved emerald bracelet to see if any of the emeralds are suitable for a recut. Two of them aren’t actually carved so I’m assuming one of them. They have good colour and clarity.
I’m trying to stop this being the option.
But in having trouble finding somewhere that has the emeralds so I can prove them accordingly.
I mean I have found sellers but I don’t know if they are trustworthy or not.
As I said we can pay more - I just don’t want to. If the right stone was $2000-$3000 we would consider it seriously.
I have seen the stones available .... trying to stay away from oiled and created all together.

I was considering an emerald green Peridot but couldn’t find one in an appropriate emerald cut.

Nooooooooooooo
Not THE carved emerald braclete?

Would an oiled enerald be so bad ?

 

[LemonMoonLex]

Nooooooooooooo
Not THE carved emerald braclete?

Would an oiled enerald be so bad ?

Oiled is completely fine in my opinion Daisy! (:

What I was referencing to were treatments that use other methods to where you're basically not even buying an emerald anymore.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

I was considering an emerald green Peridot but couldn’t find one in an appropriate emerald cut.

Could you possibly get a peridot cut to order ?

 

[dk168]

Has anyone mentioned a lab Emerald? That will be within budget for that size. Try Gray at Finewater Gems to see if he has any roughs available.

As for the setting, I would ditch it and have a new one made myself, with better protection for the centre stone, regardless whether the OP chooses natural or lab Emerald.

DK

 

[Beautiful-disaster]

I would consider lab created or oiled if that was the best option.
Hadn’t considered having a peridot cut specifically .. not sure how I would go about it (?) but do know they aren’t super common in the emerald green shade.
I have also considered rolling the dice and buying a ring through auction that looks right - to harness the stone - but haven’t been brave enough up until now.

I don’t think the *inspired by* works when you have very large sentimental attachment to what the ring used to be.
I am for lowering the whole setting (and adding double prongs of ness. But want the ring to keep its antique feel and style.
I’m wondering what the actual stone that is in there is worth (or what it could be)....... any best guesses at what it is?

 

[dk168]

Can't guess without photos as prices vary significantly between shades and clarity, sorry!

Have a look at the offerings at Embassy Emeralds for comparison.

DK

 

[Skyjems]

It looks like it's around 5cts, if you do enough shopping and bargain hunting you can find a natural emerald.

All emeralds are oiled and have been for at least 2000 years, please don't put a synthetic stone in, it's a beautiful mount and there is no need to unless you specifically want a stone that looks like it's a $250k+ gem

My advice: it's been a while since the ring lost it's original emerald, take your time and find the best you can for the money.

Good luck!

 

[motownmama]

What are the dimensions you need? I looked on Africa Gems and GemsNY last night. If you’re willing to really go down in quality you may find something. Is that black looking stone a VERY dark emerald? Is it a ring you’d only wear for special occasions? Emeralds do break, as you know from experience with this ring.
Lab grown? (Chatham emerald)
Tsavorite?

 

[whitewave]

I agree putting an emerald there would lead to disaster again. That setting is not a setting for an emerald.

Maybe a tsavoritte? Lab emerald?

 

[whitewave]

Btw, you aren’t going to find an unoiled emerald.

Even wildfishgems.com which sells unheated stones, carries oiled emeralds because they found there is no such thing as an unoiled emerald.

 

[dk168]

Btw, you aren’t going to find an unoiled emerald.

Except for lab stones I believe - the lab Emerald that Jeff W cut for me is not oiled, and I believe the ones on offer at Gary's in the past was the same.

DK

 

[chrono]

Tsav isn't going to do any better in that setting.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@Beautiful-disaster I love how in your family there is a tradition of passing down jewelry for loved ones to enjoy. I think it’s wonderful.

I do however have to echo the former posters. For a stone of that size (and I’m guessing by the photo alone, without actual dimensions), you would need a “sizable” emerald of a few carats. Unless you have $20-30k (and upwards! Sky’s the limit for unoiled emeralds) to spend, you likely won’t get an unoiled emerald of good quality. $1000-$3000 for an emerald of few carats is doable but would require compromises (lighter colors, oiling, more included, less ideal cut, perhaps not Muzo/Columbian origin, etc). My honest answer is that for an emerald of that eye catching size, you may not be pleased with an “inferior” emerald in the end. (Albeit “inferior” is in the eye of the beholder and here on PS we could talk about and compare emeralds until the cows come home lol!)

But mostly, the setting, while beautiful, spells disaster for more fragile stones. Just like with most things in life, we must learn from history or history may repeat itself.

In summary, I think there’s no ideal outcome unfortunately. If you put a more expensive natural emerald in that setting you may damage the emerald, and if you put a more inferior quality natural emerald in that setting (aka an emerald more cost effective to replace later), you may not get as much enjoyment from it.

I actually vote for a lab emerald. True they do not have the sheen/glow of real emeralds, but in terms of color they come as close as one would hope (more than peridots or tsavorites), and your budget of a few thousand would allow you to purchase a lovely AND sizable lab emerald (whereas the same budget would not allow you to likely purchase a lovely AND sizable natural oiled emerald, or at least not without a long wait and much, much looking). Also, lab emeralds may be more cost effective to replace later, given the setting.

Just my two wee humble cents. But in the end you gotta do what makes your heart sing! I think most of us really simply mean well, but I have to say that I haven’t always taken the advice of others! Your only goal really in the end is to end up with a ring YOU will love and treasure, never mind the rest of us

 

[Ionysis]

Purely for reference this is my latest emerald purchase. Its super clean, Zambian. Cost me USD $5k.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@Beautiful-disaster

I saw this ring today and it reminded me a little of your sister’s! (Although yours IMHO is more subtle/refined in the setting with the baguette diamonds rather than rounds.).

Diamond + Emerald Art Deco Engagement Ring | Deco Shop

This breathtaking diamond and emerald art deco engagement ring is a beautiful vintage-inspired piece, a classic emerald cut flanked by glittering diamonds.

www.decoweddings.com

Disclaimer, I’ve never used or heard of this vendor before, just saw the photo of the ring and thought it might be of interest in “imagining” how yours may look with a more emerald looking gem in the center than the current stone in place.

 

[motownmama]

My suggestion is to buy a Chatham emerald. In the size you’re looking for it’s about your budget without your sister chipping in. They offer a lifetime guarantee if it chips or breaks - don’t hold me to that, but I recall seeing that and just googled that I didn’t imagine it. Not sure the exact in’s & out’s, but that way you could wear it and enjoy it. I think that’s what I’d do. Good luck!!!!!

 

[motownmama]

Will you come back and let us know what you decided?

 

[Polyhex]

Why not an emerald impregnated with a polymer like "ExCel"? My understanding is that in addition to being much cheaper, they improve the durability of the emerald. Someone just sold a pretty large pear-cut ExCel treated emerald in a ring on LoupeTroop for $300.

It would not be a good idea to take apart the Mughal bracelet, because those emeralds are backed in green foil. It will be really hard or impossible to know what color they are until it's already been destroyed.

 

[Eclectic]

@Beautiful-disaster
Did you ever get anymore pics? Any update on the ring? I also want to know what happened to the original emerald that was broken, since there is a possibility it could be recut.

 

[voce]

What are the dimensions you need? I looked on Africa Gems and GemsNY last night. If you’re willing to really go down in quality you may find something. Is that black looking stone a VERY dark emerald? Is it a ring you’d only wear for special occasions? Emeralds do break, as you know from experience with this ring.
Lab grown? (Chatham emerald)
Tsavorite?

In non-melee sizes tsavorites are no substitute for emerald. They are in fact MORE expensive than emeralds in sizes above a carat and face up smaller for the same carat weight, due to higher density. Yes, they can be better clarity than some emeralds, but the notion that they are a more economical alternative must be abandoned because it has been quite a few years now that new governmental policies in Africa have prevented large scale mining, reducing supply and driving prices up.

Even had there been no restriction on mining tsavorites, it is exponentially rarer to find a natural tsavorite at the 5ct mark than to find a 5ct natural emerald. Both a fine quality natural 5ct tsav and a 5ct five quality natural emerald would command 5 figures, and depending on the inclusions and treatment of the emerald, it is not clear which would be the more expensive.

FWIW, I also agree that lab emerald seems the only option to move forward with this project.

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

I wonder whether it would be feasible to bezel set an emerald in this setting? If the head has to be replaced, for example. That might protect the stone better, if yes.

Also, I echo the suggestion to go for a lab emerald as the most cost effective option. Or perhaps check out one of the south/south East Asian vendors - I don’t know any, but I’m sure people here could recommend someone. They tend to have much lower margins than the western vendors. You won’t get a certed super high quality stone in your price point though.

 

[kimberlyqkim]

Purely for reference this is my latest emerald purchase. Its super clean, Zambian. Cost me USD $5k.

This is exactly the type of emerald I am looking for, would you mind sharing where you purchased it? I have a 6K budget and want something small, transparent and certified. @Ionysis