Help me choose a gem Akoya strand from Takahashi please

[Bojambles]

Hello, I've tremendously enjoyed reading @yssie 's super informative posts on Gem quality akoya and also the mentions of how Takahashi stacks up against the US big vendors and Moline. Ironically I thought I was satisfied with akoyas, and came across this thread while searching for vendors for a tahitian diamond rondelle strand, so I guess I'm not satisfied yet!

I have an existing PSL hanadama 7.0-7.5 set (strand + earrings) acquired in Japan a few years ago, and the strand is lower grade than one of the US big 3 (the earrings are possibly at least equal or better though), but I paid less than half the price.

I've been toying with the idea of upgrading my akoya strand, or getting a bigger size, but am really particular about getting gem quality this time. I'm also very particular on value, as I just don't feel good if I feel like I could have done better, so learning about Takahashi was great!

They sent me several sizes: 7x7.5, 7.5x8.0, 8.0x8.5, 8.5x9.0 (pictures in posts below).

All are their top quality except the 7.5x8.0, but only certified till hanadama (not sure why they wouldn't do Tennyo if this is their highest grade?).

1. Could those of you who have gem from Takahashi opine on whether these are good strands for gem strands that you have from them?

2. Is there a noticeable difference in luster and quality between the sizes?

3. I really like iridescence and also that strong rosy glow in artificial light (is that luster or iridescence?). Is there a way / lighting to test for these?

4. I'm struggling to see the difference between second grade and first grade. If it's just minor surface texture and the luster & iridescence are the same, I will ask for second grade (and can go for a larger size too)

5. For the 8.0x8.5 and 8.5x9.0, do you see any noticeable differences between the multiple strands?

I'm tempted to ask for 9.0-10.0 and if Tennyo makes a difference for their grades, but it will likely be more expensive

I'm not US / UK based so pretty indifferent between say Pearl Paradise and Takahashi. But the prices I got from Takahashi's are not that much cheaper than PP - the difference is well within PP's normal sitewide discounts. But if Takahashi is also of higher quality then that settles the debate for me.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Bojambles]

7.0x7.5 strand, Top Grade, no PSL cert

 

[Bojambles]

7.5-8.0mm, Second grade

 

[Bojambles]

8.0x8.5mm, top grade, PSL Hanadama

 

[Bojambles]

8.5x9.0, top grade, PSL hanadama

 

[yssie]

Takahashi is first and foremost a supplier to other retailers.

Hanadama is recognized world-wide. Ten-nyo is a niche designation, not particularly well respected, and extra cost - for something most of their buyers (who are primarily trade) either don’t care about or would take care of themselves. I’m sure they could get you the report if you want it and are willing to pay transport costs and PSL fee though

 

[yssie]

If you want top quality then toss the #2 7.5-8 out. Easy first step.

The next most important question is what size you want. You’ve got quite a large range here - that size differential translates into non-trivial extra expense I’m sure!

All of these are pretty strongly pinked. No worries there. I personally like a more pink pearl too

Of the 8.5-9 - middle strand wins. Most contrasty which will translate into most “metallic” IRL.

Of the 8-8.5 - oust the innermost strand. Light reflection edges less sharp, black reflections less contrasty. Get more photos of the middle and outer.

Perhaps request a side by side of the middle 8.5-9, middle & outer 8-8.5, and 7-7.5.

 

[Bojambles]

If you want top quality then toss the #2 7.5-8 out. Easy first step.

The next most important question is what size you want. You’ve got quite a large range here - that size differential translates into non-trivial extra expense I’m sure!

All of these are pretty strongly pinked. No worries there. I personally like a more pink pearl too

Of the 8.5-9 - middle strand wins. Most contrasty which will translate into most “metallic” IRL.

Of the 8-8.5 - oust the innermost strand. Light reflection edges less sharp, black reflections less contrasty. Get more photos of the middle and outer.

Perhaps request a side by side of the middle 8.5-9, middle & outer 8-8.5, and 7-7.5.

Thanks @yssie , very insightful - especially on the Tennyo.

On size & expense, you are right. It's a barbell situation as I'm willing to pay for the 8.5-9 if I feel like the value is still there (understand that it's subjective).

I'm after gem grade for higher luster and iridescence but don't need perfect skins - probably better for me to ask Takahashi directly about the difference in their grades

If it is in bad taste to have asked for comparisons and vetting of these gem strands against PP / other member's Takahashi strands, apologies!

I'm trying to get comfortable in buying pearls online. Having those reference points checked makes me feel less nervous due to the strict no returns policy.

 

[yssie]

Oh I don’t have a problem with the request, at the heart of it comparisons are how we all choose where to buy. The issue is that it’s impossible to actually DO. Comparing nuances using photos taken at different times, in different lighting… What I can say, having bought lots of akoya from both Takahashi and other vendors including Pearl Paradise, is that my Takahashi akoya have been consistently nicer than my pre-certed Hanadama and pre-certed Ten-nyo.

Takahashi usually grades with numbers - 1 being best… I assume by “gem” they mean “1”? If top luster is most important to you then tell them that and they’ll make recommendations accordingly! (With the caveat that their top luster for pearls in these sizes isn’t on par with the best from Moline or Miki, in my personal experience).

Value for money is… A challenging thing. I do want to say this here.
For all that we can nitpick photos til the cows come home, it’s no guarantee. Every time I buy from Takahashi I buy with the understanding that I could be making a bad choice with no recourse. These pearls, nice as they look in these photos, absolutely COULD be lesser than Pearl Paradise’s current best. Probable? No. Possible? Definitely. There’s no way to know without a direct comparison, which is of course impossible. That’s the reality of buying with no return policy - you’re gambling and you might just lose. So if you’re not comfy with that (and most people won’t be for large sums of money) then don’t do it.

If you want tippy top pearls at an unbranded pricepoint that do come with reassurances my recommendation is Andrew Moline. More expensive but a much safer purchase.

 

[Bojambles]

Thanks again @yssie . I got more photos from them so just posting here for other members to reference in the future. Helpfully, they also provided a comparison between their #1 and #2 grades.

I previously asked them if #1 was gem and they simply replied that it's their best. I think they do occasionally use "gem" to describe akoya but not going to read much into that.

Pics below. Going to take the weekend (or more) to decide

 

[Bojambles]

Top strand #2, bottom strand #1

 

[Bojambles]

Selected #1 strands from 7.0x7.5mm to 8.5x9.0mm. The smallest strand looks the most lustrous to my untrained eye (albeit with slight hammering), but the bigger sizes are also holding their own against it?

 

[yssie]

Thank you for sharing these comparisons photos!! This will definitely be very helpful to others moving forward!

The quality difference between the #1 and #2 strands is clear. That luster and contrast differential would be very visible IRL I think.

Re. The comparison with four - I agree with your eyes. The smallest strand (innermost) is the most lustrous but also has the most hammered surfaces. The second-to-innermost - that's got less overtone than the other three and lower contrast. I'd get rid of that one. Second-to-outermost has strong pink overtone, but pink is the only overtone colour - the pearls are "off-white with pink overtone"; Outermost on the other hand looks to have a silver component to the overtone as well, not just pink - and it's smoother. I personally like akoya with a bit of silver to cool the warm pink down.

But all in all the smallest strand is clearly the standout. Do they have any larger strands with luster to match this 7-7.5?

 

[yssie]

Oh. One more thought. I think Takahashi took those pictures with a phone.

Phone cameras pretty much universally like to amp contrast up... When evaluating pearls this has the interesting side effect of exaggerating the real-world impact of minor surface blemishing that creates peaks and valleys (like a hammered texture would). So I'll wager the surface of the smallest is less objectionable to the eye than it is in those photos.

Here's an example. First pic with phone focused at red box. Second pic with camera also focused at red box. You can see how the texture of the ring rolls is highlighted in the phone pic... And the pearls look smoother in the second pic too... What I see with my eyes IRL is much closer to the camera photo than the phone.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

Oh. One more thought. I think Takahashi took those pictures with a phone.

Phone cameras pretty much universally like to amp contrast up... When evaluating pearls this has the interesting side effect of exaggerating the real-world impact of minor surface blemishing that creates peaks and valleys (like a hammered texture would). So I'll wager the surface of the smallest is less objectionable to the eye than it is in those photos.

Here's an example. First pic with phone focused at red box. Second pic with camera also focused at red box. You can see how the texture of the ring rolls is highlighted in the phone pic... And the pearls look smoother in the second pic too... What I see with my eyes IRL is much closer to the camera photo than the phone.

Is there such a job as a pearl procurer ?
(That may or may not be a good choice of word)
Because you are amazing Yssie

 

[Ann]

Is there such a job as a pearl procurer ?
(That may or may not be a good choice of word)
Because you are amazing Yssie

Thinking the same thing! Amazing indeed.

 

[Bojambles]

Thank you for sharing these comparisons photos!! This will definitely be very helpful to others moving forward!

The quality difference between the #1 and #2 strands is clear. That luster and contrast differential would be very visible IRL I think.

Re. The comparison with four - I agree with your eyes. The smallest strand (innermost) is the most lustrous but also has the most hammered surfaces. The second-to-innermost - that's got less overtone than the other three and lower contrast. I'd get rid of that one. Second-to-outermost has strong pink overtone, but pink is the only overtone colour - the pearls are "off-white with pink overtone"; Outermost on the other hand looks to have a silver component to the overtone as well, not just pink - and it's smoother. I personally like akoya with a bit of silver to cool the warm pink down.

But all in all the smallest strand is clearly the standout. Do they have any larger strands with luster to match this 7-7.5?

Thanks again! Wow you pick up so much detail that I didn't notice. Now that you mention it, the second to outermost strand is indeed kind of off-white, and I do prefer silver to pink.

I will ask them about the luster for the larger sizes. Fingers crossed they have some.

 

[Bojambles]

So... an update. Over the weekend I decided on the largest (8.5mm to 9.0mm) size and as a choker. Sadly Takahashi doesn't have anything that I feel matches the 7.0mm to 7.5mm strands in terms of luster (I hope I didn't annoy them, but I think I might have as they replied that this was already their best).

They sent over more photos, but I just keep seeing the 7.0mm to 7.5mm strand calling out my name instead argh. I know that I wouldn't be satisfied with the luster of the 8.5mm to 9.0mm strand, because of the knowledge that this grade can do higher.

Trying to justify getting another 7.0mm to 7.5mm strand now ("I do like my current strand, but it's not a choker, etc...").

So difficult! I've asked them now if they have even larger (9.0mm to 9.5mm) in that luster, and if the price doesn't jump too much, might get that one instead. I started this search with the intent to look for larger pearls anyway, if the compromise in luster wasn't significant.

Anyway, uploading photos for future searchers... they're all very beautiful pearls, but I do have nitpicking tendencies.

 

[icy_jade]

The price will surely jump. Larger akoyas are very expensive, and those with fantastic luster even harder to find.

 

[yssie]

I’m sure you didn’t annoy them. That’s what they’re there for - to help you not buy the wrong strand!! I wouldn’t get the 7-7.5. You clearly want bigger pearls - if you get it you’ll still want bigger pearls. We all know how that goes

The question of how much compromise is too much, though… That’s so different for everyone. I agree that minimal-compromise gem-luster in 9-9.5 will be hellishly pricey. Just one price reference - my Moline gem 8-8.5mm was ~9k USD last year, I would expect a 9-9.5 to be at least 3x-4x that, if it’s even doable.

Forgive me if I’m being presumptuous here… But I feel like perhaps you aren’t 100% confident just how much your eyes are going to be willing to compromise on luster? There are a couple of ways to get a better idea of that before you shell out for a whole strand:
A) If you’ve got a Mikimoto boutique nearby that’s a great venue to go play lookieloo for an hour
B) Buy a range of qualities from vendors with generous return policies and see for yourself. When I do this I pay shipping since I know up front I’m not going to be keeping. The downside to this is that they most likely won’t have the top qualities.
C) I believe Andrew Moline has an akoya quality set that he’ll send out for viewing - to help answer exactly this question. Again - I’d pick up the shipping (he might already require that actually).
D) Buy a couple of pearls from Takahashi that match the luster of the strands you’re looking at. Perhaps a pair in a size you’ll wear that match that 7-7.5mm strand, and another for gifting that matches the lower luster of the larger strands? You’re still buying with no return policy but it’s much less pricey.

 

[Bojambles]

The price will surely jump. Larger akoyas are very expensive, and those with fantastic luster even harder to find.

you are right... it's almost 2x. Ouch.

 

[Bojambles]

Thanks @yssie , you are spot on again - I really do want bigger pearls. But luster gets me equally and is a bigger bugbear

I went to my local miki counter to play with their 8.5m and 9.5mms yesterday, so I think I can pull it off in choker form. The SA said they changed their grading locally again - it's three grades ("normal, "premium", "best of the best" - these may just be her own names for it), and I already felt like their "normal" no longer cuts it for me

Thanks for sharing your price datapoints as well. I don't think I can go for Andrew's goods at the moment as I just bought today another piece of jewelry (non pearl - separate reveal when it arrives!)

I'm in Asia so the shipping to and fro starts to really add up, plus I'm paranoid when I send out valuable items.

I really like your suggestion of getting test pearls. One of my cousins wants (her first pair) of studs, and I was already thinking about ordering some for her.

Have redefined my options on facing reality to:

1. Biting the bullet on the size / luster trade off and getting the 8.5-9.0mm strand anyway, turning it into a shorter length and using the spare pearls for a floating necklace

2. Getting the 7.0-7.5mm strand which is a lower risk in terms of sunk cost and do the same alterations. This still gives me 2 necklaces of wearable styles (my current strand ends a bit weirdly vs. the necklines I wear)
+ a pair of earrings of the same luster as the 8.5-9.0mm strand to test the waters - perhaps my eyes won't even notice it IRL!

 

[Bojambles]

Also, this is my existing strand in artificial indoor light. It's a matched pair (ignore the WSSP pair that wandered into the picture...). I wasn't confident of picking so I went round the Tokyo gem district squinting at every set that met my budget for hours, going back into shops 2 to 3 times.

This strand wasn't the most beautiful (fair bit of hammering) but the earrings were perfect, and the strand seemed to have the most orient. I actually went through the store's hanadama certs to look at that xray photo and this was the most colourful, so it seemed to confirm my choice.

Years later I realise that part of the real life colour could be bad colour matching lol, but still love it.





Even the dark PSL photo seems to show colour variation, which I mistook for orient at that time

 

[yssie]

Oh. Girl. Those are nice pearls. No, sure, not perfectly matched in the strand, but they've clearly got sharp luster.
So you're gonna have to go good 'cause if you go "mediocre" they might not stack up against what you've already got!

And I missed that you were in Asia - in that case buying from US-based vendors definitely wouldn't make sense for you. The US-based vendors are buying from East Asia anyway!

You could also put in a request and have a vendor keep an eye out for you... Even if nothing's available right now at the pricepoint you want - you might have more options after next harvest (in winter in Japan).

 

[icy_jade]

Which part of Asia are you in? Singapore? HK and some other locations still have jewelry and gem shows now and then.

 

[icy_jade]

I do prefer silver to pink

I have a lot of pearls and one reason why I don’t have akoyas (apart from size) is because only natural white akoyas look fantastic on me. The pinked ones not at all. So… good to have fabulous luster and all, but if your skin tone suits white instead of pink, that’s something to consider.

 

[Bojambles]

Which part of Asia are you in? Singapore? HK and some other locations still have jewelry and gem shows now and then.

Yes I'm in Singapore - I see there's an upcoming SIJE for 7-10 October. Not sure if it's good for pearls but will try to go unless I have to work that weekend.

Dyou have any recommendations for which fairs are better? Heard HK is better but not keen on quarantining. TIA!

 

[Bojambles]

So you're gonna have to go good 'cause if you go "mediocre" they might not stack up against what you've already got!

yes that is what I'm afraid of if I get the larger strand

You could also put in a request and have a vendor keep an eye out for you... Even if nothing's available right now at the pricepoint you want - you might have more options after next harvest (in winter in Japan).

True that. I think I can wait another half year to see the next harvest! Fingers crossed all this environmental damage won't wreck it; oysters don't seem to be very hardy

 

[icy_jade]

Yes I'm in Singapore - I see there's an upcoming SIJE for 7-10 October. Not sure if it's good for pearls but will try to go unless I have to work that weekend.

Dyou have any recommendations for which fairs are better? Heard HK is better but not keen on quarantining. TIA!

Only worth going if overseas vendors will be there - am a bit doubtful they will travel here tbh. Heard the recent HK show was super small.

HK fair is good, and I heard the Tokyo one as well (for pearls).

 

[icy_jade]

You saw this ya:

Login • Instagram

Welcome back to Instagram. Sign in to check out what your friends, family & interests have been capturing & sharing around the world.

www.instagram.com