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Help tweaking a custom setting (B&M jeweler)

sempredolce

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 28, 2023
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We have a local jeweler setting these stones for a 10yr anniversary ring.

Rose gold one is the CAD so far. Apparently the slight seams/bumps are a CAD software peculiarity, will not be in the final.
Yellow gold pic is a variation I found which I really like.

Priorities are - 1. plain half-round wedding band (about 2.3mmx2.3mm high) must sit flush
2. Final will be 14k rose with the double prongs on the center stone. The pears have a corner prong at the tip and two regular prongs.
2. pears should be as low as can be without preventing the wedding band from sitting flush. Center stone should sit higher - want more of a solitaire-with-decorated-band look, not "3 stone" all in one level
3. Secure and not fussy, overall a low setting (as low as can be while maintaining that height differential)

Any reason to favor one of these ideas over another? Will the YG version have a harder time letting the wedding band sit flush without being overall a higher setting? Would the YG having more metal overall under the center stone let less light in/through? (Not sure if that even is a thing). Center stone is an elongated cushion so it's got some quirks/character, not a super ideal gcal8x (see I read my PS threads lol)
alternate.pngScreenshot 2023-10-25 at 10.10.55 PM.png
Center stone video here which also shows the wedding band.
Here's a (not great quality) photo of all 3 stones to give you an idea:
IMG_9002.jpg

Thank you all for your experience & assistance!
 
Ask whoever is making it to make waxes of both so you can see which one you like the best.

Will the YG version have a harder time letting the wedding band sit flush without being overall a higher setting?
We need to see more views (sides) of the CADs to see if one sticks out further than the other. I imagine they are both
the same and will allow a wedding band to sit flush. Ask whoever is creating the setting.

Would the YG having more metal overall under the center stone let less light in/through?

There is no more metal in the yellow gold version than the rose gold version. Please point out what you are seeing because
I'm not seeing it.

One issue is that in the rose gold version, the pears are at more of a tilt. Sometimes fancy cuts "window out" when
set at a tilt. They could window out in even the shallow tilt that the yellow gold has. That's why you need wax versions
that you can pop the stones in and see how the pears look.
 
Ask whoever is making it to make waxes of both so you can see which one you like the best.

Will the YG version have a harder time letting the wedding band sit flush without being overall a higher setting?
We need to see more views (sides) of the CADs to see if one sticks out further than the other. I imagine they are both
the same and will allow a wedding band to sit flush. Ask whoever is creating the setting.

Would the YG having more metal overall under the center stone let less light in/through?

There is no more metal in the yellow gold version than the rose gold version. Please point out what you are seeing because
I'm not seeing it.

One issue is that in the rose gold version, the pears are at more of a tilt. Sometimes fancy cuts "window out" when
set at a tilt. They could window out in even the shallow tilt that the yellow gold has. That's why you need wax versions
that you can pop the stones in and see how the pears look.

Thanks! Re the YG one I was thinking of the branches coming in from the sides that end in the prongs for the pears, but I guess they don't really go under the center stone, just beside it.

I didn't think about the windowing with the pears, that is a good point and something I'll look into.
 
This is just my opinion, but I prefer how the prongs for the pears originate from the shank in the yellow gold version, leaving the head for the center stone on its own. Otherwise, since the pears will be in the middle of the long sides or your cushion, where are the prongs for the rounded end of the pear coming from?
 
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