6 prong solitaire setting design for OEC: Which should I choose?

[Aurora26]

During the past couple of months, I was searching for an OEC diamond for an engagement ring, and finally purchased one last week (details of the journey can be found here https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/looking-to-purchase-2-3ct-oec.262401/)

Now for the more fun part, I am in the process of figuring out what kind of setting to place the stone in. I gravitate towards classic styles, simplicity, clean lines, and I own and love many yellow gold rings so would like the shank to be yellow (I think, more on that below). I also want the stone to be secure as I am usually gentle with my jewelry but also have never worn a diamond ring before. For these reasons, I am considering 6 platinum prongs, cathedral style setting, 2mm - 2.2mm shank. I do not want pave, do not want a bezel, do not want 4 prongs or 4 double prongs. I want a flush fit so I can stack with a plain metal wedding band so no donut.

Design 1A: My initial thought is a design like this but without pave anywhere (platinum prongs, yellow gold rounded shank, no taper):

For this design, I like that the gallery rails are there to potentially prevent a prong from bending back too much if it is caught. I would want that arch of the shank directly below the stone to be a little thicker and rounded.

Design 1B: Here is another similar design, but no donut. I like the height of the gallery rails here as I don't want those to be visible when viewing the stone from head-on. I also like the angle of the cathedral shoulders:


Design 2: I also gravitate towards an even simpler design, such as below, perhaps prongs be a touch more daintier. But without cathedral or gallery rails, is this not as secure of a setting, and significantly so? There was a thread in Dec 2020 of a user's friend knocking off her 2-3ct solitaire head from the shank and then luckily finding it in the ice drawer - I'd rather not have an extended heart attack like that if easily preventable. I know however her setting was pave'd and thinner than 2mm. If I were to go with this design that does not have gallery rails, is there technically a way to add a cathedral? Or would the shoulders just have nowhere to attach to, since there are no prongs located at 9 and 3 o'clock.



My bottomline question is what are the most secure 6 prong setting designs?
1. Is cathedral much more secure than a non-cathedral setting?
2. Is platinum-only much more secure than two-tone?
3. Are gallery rails helpful for stone security, or is it that with a 6 prong design, prongs-only are sufficient?
4. Are donuts helpful for stone security? (I really don't like the look of these but would consider if needed)
Bonus: Does anyone have any other simple 6 prong setting inspiration designs? I would love to see photos of your 6 prong designs and also hear experiences of cathedral vs no cathedral, platinum vs two-tone!

I am likely going with David Klass for the custom setting and can definitely ask him his thoughts as well, as soon as we kick off the process. I have already heard back from him with an estimate for a two-tone design and am now just finalizing how to get the unset stone to him.


For reference, here are the specs of the stone:
2.72 ct
K, VS1
8.90 x 8.67 x 5.57
60% table, 63.3% depth

 

[Cerulean]

My personal vote is design #1 (without pave) - that 3rd design would especially make me nervous with a big diamond like yours and I think if hit just right, could be vulnerable.

I'd also get a 2.2. shank personally - I had a 2mm shank for a 8.1mm diamond and it spun like mad - it wasn't that it was too big, it was the weight of the diamond versus the dainty little shank.

 

[Aurora26]

My personal vote is design #1 (without pave) - that 3rd design would especially make me nervous with a big diamond like yours and I think if hit just right, could be vulnerable.

I'd also get a 2.2. shank personally - I had a 2mm shank for a 8.1mm diamond and it spun like mad - it wasn't that it was too big, it was the weight of the diamond versus the dainty little shank.

Yeah exactly, I don't want to feel nervous about accidentally hitting it somewhere and it's only connected at one point.

Hmm I didn't even consider that a thinner shank would not be able to prevent a stone from spinning. I thought it was just the tightness of the ring so was going with a tighter fit, which I prefer anyways. Thank you for pointing that out. A jeweler I went for a quote suggested I go with 2mm shank to highlight the size of the stone but I'll consider if the benefits of a 2.2mm shank outweighs the slight visual effect of a thinner shank.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Don’t know about security but IMHO the first one has the prettiest view from the side.

 

[Aurora26]

I found this similar design that DK did in the past. I would just want this to be 6 prong. Otherwise, everything looks spot on to what I initially gravitated towards including the roundness of all the metal. I think this has milgrain on the gallery rails though, so not sure I want that but maybe.

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[Yimmers]

A couple of questions -

• Do you expect your wedding band to have diamonds?
• If so, pave or something with protected edges like a channel set? Otherwise, your wedding band will eat into the prongs.
• Do you want your wedding band to be a flush fit?
• Are you willing to wear a spacer if you want a pave wedding band?
• Did you get sized just wearing the ring by itself or with wearing another band? Multiple bands will make a snugger fit, just so you know.
• Alternatively, to keep the width at 2mm, are you open to the idea of a Euro shank to prevent spinning?

I like the first one - I suspect without pave, the gallery rails will curve inwards so they don't stick out.

The DK IG photo is nice.

 

[Aurora26]

A couple of questions -

• Do you expect your wedding band to have diamonds?
• If so, pave or something with protected edges like a channel set? Otherwise, your wedding band will eat into the prongs.
• Do you want your wedding band to be a flush fit?
• Are you willing to wear a spacer if you want a pave wedding band?
• Did you get sized just wearing the ring by itself or with wearing another band? Multiple bands will make a snugger fit, just so you know.
• Alternatively, to keep the width at 2mm, are you open to the idea of a Euro shank to prevent spinning?

I like the first one - I suspect without pave, the gallery rails will curve inwards so they don't stick out.

The DK IG photo is nice.

I plan on a plain wedding band, likely to also be made by DK so the 18k gold matches the ER. I don't foresee wearing anything else beyond these two. I do want these to be flush fit.

Just googled Euro Shank and I don't love the look, especially the look of the corners. I love the look and feel of smooth, shiny yellow gold. I don't think I would mind a tight 2.2mm shank to get the look that I want. Actually, I have been wearing a size 3.5 ring sizer that's about 2.5mm for a couple days to get used to the feel

 

[carbonfan]

I am partial to the graceful flow of Option 1A. The basket is just gorgeous and creates such a gorgeous profile view. And I absolutely adore cathedral settings! I am always surprised what a difference the profile of a ring makes, as this is a view that is seen quite often! Good luck!

 

[Yimmers]

Ah, having him do both will allow him to make it flush fit then! You probably won't have a donut then. Woot!

 

[Polyhex]

Super exciting to be in this phase of your project. I also like #1 and the David Klass example the best.

My opinions on your questions...

1. Is cathedral much more secure than a non-cathedral setting?

I don't know if they are MUCH more secure, but they have to be more secure because they are increasing the # of connections between the shank and the pronged head, hence increasing the amount of force needed to break the head off the ring.

2. Is platinum-only much more secure than two-tone?

Again, I don't know if it's MUCH more secure, but all platinum would probably be somewhat more secure because of #1 platinum metal properties, and #2, the ring could be cast in one piece rather than cast in separate gold and platinum parts which need to be welded or soldered. There are however lots of gold + plat rings which have survived for over 100 years, and my own ring is platinum with a gold shank.

3. Are gallery rails helpful for stone security, or is it that with a 6 prong design, prongs-only are sufficient?

I believe gallery rails are helpful because they are increasing the # of connection points that each prong has, hence increasing the amount of force needed to break a prong off.

4. Are donuts helpful for stone security? (I really don't like the look of these but would consider if needed)

Probably but if you are going with a cathedral setting where the shank is connected to the prong structure in multiple places, I think you could forgo this since it's your least favorite design element.

 

[Aurora26]

Follow up question, will a channel set wedding band allow for a flush fit and not

Super exciting to be in this phase of your project. I also like #1 and the David Klass example the best.

My opinions on your questions...

1. Is cathedral much more secure than a non-cathedral setting?

I don't know if they are MUCH more secure, but they have to be more secure because they are increasing the # of connections between the shank and the pronged head, hence increasing the amount of force needed to break the head off the ring.

2. Is platinum-only much more secure than two-tone?

Again, I don't know if it's MUCH more secure, but all platinum would probably be somewhat more secure because of #1 platinum metal properties, and #2, the ring could be cast in one piece rather than cast in separate gold and platinum parts which need to be welded or soldered. There are however lots of gold + plat rings which have survived for over 100 years, and my own ring is platinum with a gold shank.

3. Are gallery rails helpful for stone security, or is it that with a 6 prong design, prongs-only are sufficient?

I believe gallery rails are helpful because they are increasing the # of connection points that each prong has, hence increasing the amount of force needed to break a prong off.

4. Are donuts helpful for stone security? (I really don't like the look of these but would consider if needed)

Probably but if you are going with a cathedral setting where the shank is connected to the prong structure in multiple places, I think you could forgo this since it's your least favorite design element.

Super helpful per usual @Polyhex

What it sounds like to me is since I want A. as much stone security as possible (but aesthetically pleasing to me), and B. a two-tone design, I should absolutely go with cathedral. This will allow for 3 connection points between the platinum and 18k shank. If I wanted a non-cathedral design, I should definitely opt for platinum with a big fat connection point between the shank and the prongs. However, since I value the two-tone look more than non-cathedral, will go with the former. I also happen to not mind the cathedral at all. Looking at it makes me less anxious than looking at a large stone secured with only one connection.

Okay I think that settles it then, two-tone with cathedral, modeled after this DK design just updated to be 6 prong

 

[Polyhex]

Super helpful per usual @Polyhex

You are easy to help! Rational, beautiful taste, and you know what you want!

What it sounds like to me is since I want A. as much stone security as possible (but aesthetically pleasing to me), and B. a two-tone design, I should absolutely go with cathedral. This will allow for 3 connection points between the platinum and 18k shank. If I wanted a non-cathedral design, I should definitely opt for platinum with a big fat connection point between the shank and the prongs. However, since I value the two-tone look more than non-cathedral, will go with the former. I also happen to not mind the cathedral at all. Looking at it makes me less anxious than looking at a large stone secured with only one connection.

Okay I think that settles it then, wo-tone with cathedral, modeled after this DK design just updated to be 6 prong

I think this is a beautiful plan that takes into account the right balance between all your desires, and it's going to be so so gorgeous!

 

[Moonie]

It's a very classic design and looks very elegant! I'm so glad the exchange of diamonds is so simple, and look forward to seeing the completed piece!

 

[lulu_ma]

Can’t wait to see the finished setting! Your stone is so pretty!

 

[Aurora26]

You are easy to help! Rational, beautiful taste, and you know what you want!



I think this is a beautiful plan that takes into account the right balance between all your desires, and it's going to be so so gorgeous!

You are the sweetest to say that. At times I felt like such a negative Nancy shooting everything down lol.
DK said they will have an initial design drawn up to show me by this Wednesday. Then production will take 10 days or less once I approve the CAD. So I should get the final ring in person by the end of the month. So, so quick. I would have thought they would be much more busy prior to Valentine’s Day.

It's a very classic design and looks very elegant! I'm so glad the exchange of diamonds is so simple, and look forward to seeing the completed piece!

Thank you and agreed, glad you are still following along!

Can’t wait to see the finished setting! Your stone is so pretty!

Thank you so much! Shouldn’t be much longer now.

 

[LightBright]

This ring is going to be amazing! Love all of your choices, and that diamond rocks. I can’t wait to see this on your hand.

 

[Aurora26]

DK provided the CAD today There are some details I want to clarify with him, but wanted to see if there was anything additional I should note to him:

Things I will clarify with DK:
1. There is no donut
2. The shank is rounded, not squared or otherwise edged. Same with all the prongs, cathedral lines, and other metal pieces
3. The lines around the shank at 9 and 3 o'clock are insignificant. They will not show up in the actual ring. It will be a continuous rounded, yellow gold band
4. The stone shape is round, even though the CAD says "oval," as the diamond measures 8.9 x 8.67
5. Will the rounded shank ultimately end up as 2.3mm? On the phone, your team mentioned that in the process of making it round, it will get shaved down a little bit. What will the mm end up as? I am looking for 2.1-2.3mm

DK said the prongs would be small claws, as I wanted. And I did a search on some CAD threads on Pricescope - the 7.44mm height seems on par with a stone this size (the stone’s depth is 5.57mm, which equates to a metal height of 1.87mm). Please shout if there are any perceived issues here.

Questions for Pricescope:
1. Is the 1.8mm depth of the shank fine?
2. How should DK position the stone to be set? It is a small difference per the stone measurements, but would "longer" or "wider" look better? I originally wanted it "longer" rather than "wider" if that makes sense, e.g. position the 8.9 view from top to bottom.
3. Relating to above, after taking into account the "longer" vs "wider", should the prongs for an OEC be positioned in a certain way when it comes to facets? Similar to this thread: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/orientation-of-mrb-arrows-in-relation-to-prongs.261237/
4. Should I ask for very slightly curved gallery rails? Such as in this design, but not as flat per se, still rounded in thickness https://www.instagram.com/p/CGJPd03D0Dd/?igshid=1su9npet5s7xg
5. Anything else? I have also attached the original DK ring I am basing everything off of. I like this exactly, except to have 6 prongs

 

[Aurora26]

Update on the ring. It's here! I allowed myself to wear it for a little to confirm that it fits, and capture a couple photos. David (and potentially Amy since most comms was over email) was amazing to work with, gave very sage advice on metal proportions, and obviously the craftsmanship is absolutely gorgeous, in addition to EXACTLY what I requested. We are not officially engaged yet so more pics yet to come!

Here are the details of the stone, ring, and photos:

OEC diamond sourced by Mark Broumand in LA:
2.72 ct
K, VS1
8.90 x 8.67 x 5.57
60% table, 63.3% depth

6 prong solitaire setting crafted by David Klass in LA:
Platinum prongs with 18k yellow gold shank
Subtle milgrain on the top edge of the gallery rails
Ring size 3.5

Also, I was having the hardest time capturing good photos of the diamond’s facets on my iPhone, and it kept picking up the black of my phone case. Any tips are appreciated! I do not have a loupe (yet....)

 

[lulu_ma]

Looks gorgeous! Please post more pics when you officially get engaged!

 

[silkystarlight]

Oh WOW, your ring turned out incredible!! I love that subtle milgrain. Your diamond looks gorgeous on your hand, and I can't wait to see more photos when it's "official"! Congrats on getting a final product that you love!

 

[Aurora26]

@lulu_ma @silkystarlight Thank you both!!!

I may be in the small minority of PSers that are drawn to a larger table for OECs than the teeny tiny table. I LOVE the longer petals in my stone and how I can see them so so clearly even when the stone's not inches from my face.

Also, I am continuing to work with David on a platinum carre cut eternity band. It is going to be between 1.5-2ct and wouldn't sit flush with my main ring, so going to wear it alone when I don't feel comfortable with the flashier OEC. VERY excited for this as well.

 

[Yimmers]

Oh, that is absolutely gorgeous!!!! We will need many pictures when it is official! That also goes for that scrumptious sounding carre cut eternity band!!!!

 

[Aurora26]

Oh, that is absolutely gorgeous!!!! We will need many pictures when it is official! That also goes for that scrumptious sounding carre cut eternity band!!!!

Thank you! I shall definitely report back when the band is finished. I am slightly concerned that Pricescope has ruined me forever in regards to diamonds and jewelry craftsmanship lol.

 

[maita13]

WOW! As in WOW to both your gorgeous ring and your ring size!
I’m seriously jelly of both . Regardless, congrats on your engagement!