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Help with Asscher-cut diamond eternity ring discrepancy.

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Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
13
I would appreciate any advice on a custom eternity ring with size and carat discrepancies.
And is this common practice in the jewelry trade, or should I seek options to have this discrepancy amended?

The ring is beautiful but there are aspects I am dissatisfied with:
I am not happy about receiving a ring with less stones/carat weight than what I was quoted/invoiced for. I received 18 stones at 5.70 CTTW, but I paid a price quoted and invoice for 22 stones and 6.92 Total Carat Weight.
I also am not happy with the flattened U-prong feature inside the ring. As that bellied U-prong, that lifts the ring slightly off your finger, was a unique feature that I really love and motivated me chose this design.


The story: I had my anniversary eternity ring remade because I lost mine. We chose the same jeweler where we had found the first one, a few years back.
To match the lost ring the jeweler searched for similar stones and found Asscher-cuts, which I liked (the first one had square emerald-cut diamonds in U-prong setting).
I was quoted a price for and “Eternity band with 'U' setting. 22 Asscher cut diamonds 6.92 CTTW”
I also received an image of the stones with mention: “a picture of the diamonds we will use to make your band.”
Once fully paid, I received the ring. It was beautiful but with only 18 Asscher cut diamonds, too small, and a new invoice stating these new specs (18 diamonds at 5.70 CTTW).

I inquired about this discrepancy with the jeweler via email (they are in Florida; I am in California). The jeweler was responsive and explained that:

“There was a confusion about the total diamond weight. When I asked him to make another band, he did not have the stones yet. He found a layout of stones, but not knowing how many stones he would end up needing, they had to purchase the 22 diamonds.”
Once he was certain on the number of diamonds needed, he priced the ring to me, but did not change the description in his inventory to reflect the final number of diamonds.
Although, when he made the appraisal for the ring sent to me, he noticed that the description on the original invoice did not match the finished product, so he made the correction on my final invoice.”

As the ring was too small, he asked me to have band & finger size verified locally. I confirmed that the band was ½ size small.
He had the remaining 4 diamonds but would have his bench jeweler check if a diamond was needed.
I got the ring back, without contacting me to discuss preferences. He didn't add a stone because it would have increased by 2 sizes. But wearing it I noticed the inside, under the U-prongs, was flattened, like removing metal from inside. And that was a unique feature that I really liked, and one of the reasons I chose this same deign.

Diamonds used: 22 Asscher diamonds.jpg
Ring too small received:Recived too small.jpg View attachment 875325

Resized Flat: Resized Ring Flat.jpgResized ring-1.jpg (Note flattened inside)
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I have a question – were you not credited for the price difference since you paid for more diamonds than were actually used?

Also on the picture can you draw arrows or something to point to what is flattened? I confess I cannot really see what you are talking about.

I am so sorry you’re going through this very stressful situation!
 
I want to make sure I understand. You paid for a ring with 22 stones b/c he didn't know how many were needed. He only needed 18 but "forgot" to change it in his inventory. He adjusted it to your jeweler for the final invoice. But your jeweler didn't offer to refund you the difference? Is this correct? If so, since your jeweler said
"he noticed that the description on the original invoice did not match the finished product, so he made the correction on my final invoice.” you should get a partial refund. Have you asked your jeweler if he will send you a corrected invoice and refund the difference? Or are you so unhappy with the resizing (flattening) that you don't want the ring at all? I'm with @Mreader that I can't really see the flattening but that may be because the before and after photos are taken at different angles of the ring. I think the ring is very pretty.
 
The ring is very pretty..I do see the flattening you mentioned. The U prongs are flat on the bottom now instead of rounded. He did this to make it larger on the inside. He definitely should be giving you a partial refund if you decide to keep it.
 
It is not an small size difference. Assuming they could not make the math work on the quoted diamond sizes & specs, I would expects a credit back for the delta of thr diamonds not used.

And I am not sure what you’re referring to as having been flattened, but I see a stone that’s lower than the rest at the 11 o’clock position in the after photo that’s looking awkward… I had the same thing in an eternity years ago that was sized - a stone adjacent to where the band had been split and a small sizing bar removed - NEVER sat flush again.

How far off was the size?
 
I see the flattening, and I agree w you that it totally changes the aesthetic. It looks like they just "stretched" it into a larger size from the inside thus flattening the gorgeous U's. I'm sorry about this outcome - I too would be furious, and ask for a full refund, not a remake. This jeweler has proven to be untrustworthy, and I would not give them my business a second time.

There are several very good vendors on PS that could execute this to perfection (DK, CvB, VC, etc)
 
“Once he was certain on the number of diamonds needed, he priced the ring to me”

This right here sounds like the jeweler believes the customer/OP was charged the correct total on the invoice. The item description is what was incorrect - and if that’s what the jeweler believes - there’s no refund to be asked for in regards to total carat weight.

As far as the sizing correction - I don’t think I’d be happy with the filing down of the ‘U’s as a fix. But that depends on if the sizing error was mine in giving an incorrect size, or theirs in not making to the correct size. But as seen here before - we know different brand sizers show differences.

I hope you get this resolved to your happiness, OP!
 
Hi all,

Thanks for your replies. I know it’s very confusing; I’m confused too :(
Yes I did communicate my size, early. It still fits too snug.

He still priced the ring to me by text, verbally, and written invoice. Emailed for 6.92 CT’s. And only fixed that once he shipped the ring.
The were months in the process. I can’t believe at one point he wouldn’t have noticed. It seems dishonest to me.

So Yes, I prepaid for the ring for a given invoice for 22 stones totaling 6.92 carats at a certain price.

Once I paid, the ring was made. But I received a ring with 18 stones total 5.70 carats. (For the same price paid for invoiced 6.92cts., 22 stones).

I did receive a new receipt stating 18 stones (5.70 ct), but for the same price previously paid.

Yes, his explanation was that he found the stones, not knowing how many he needed and bought (priced to me) the entire layout of 22 stones.
But only used 18 stones and forgot to tell me or change description until he shipped the ring.

The sequence of events shouldn’t matter IMO.

It seems to me I paid for 22 stones. I don’t understand how his explanation justifies it.

I still have 2 invoices both for the same price; but different total carat weights and stone #s.
I’ll talk to him again. My husband is so frustrated, he just wants to go the legal route. As we have 2 dated documents that prove the discrepancy.

Hopefully, we can resolve the matter amicably.

Thanks again!
 
It is not an small size difference. Assuming they could not make the math work on the quoted diamond sizes & specs, I would expects a credit back for the delta of thr diamonds not used.

And I am not sure what you’re referring to as having been flattened, but I see a stone that’s lower than the rest at the 11 o’clock position in the after photo that’s looking awkward… I had the same thing in an eternity years ago that was sized - a stone adjacent to where the band had been split and a small sizing bar removed - NEVER sat flush again.

How far off was the size?

It was 1/2 size too small.
 
I reread what he wrote to you and (I am still not totally sure) it seems that he is saying that the person your jeweler bought the stones from paid for 22 stones (not your jeweler, but the person the jeweler bought from) and then once the supplier became certain how many stones were needed, he invoiced your jeweler for the price of those stones but forgot to change the number of stones he had originally ordered. If that is the case, then the price is correct.

The problem is you have to trust that he is telling you the truth. And it doesn't negate the fact that you are unhappy with the final result. I would also try to just send the ring back, get a refund, and start over. Is that a possibility? Have you brought this up? Since you live in CA you are close to many, many favored vendors here on PS.
 
Not yet, I’ll cal again Tuesday and request the stones, credit. or a return and full refund. It’s become a bitter experience.

The way he explained it is that he (my jeweler) had to buy the complete layout of 22 stones from a vendor.

At one moment in time he enters this in his inventory and then quoted and me the invoice for all 22 stones.

Then took the stones to his (my jeweler’s ) shop/ bench jeweler. And his bench jeweler made the ring with only 18 stones (though wrong agreed size: 1/2 too small).

But, at some point he forgot to change it to 18 stones (After he invoiced me for a future project of 6.92 cts)

Like you said we just have to believe he’s telling the truth. It’s difficult to fully trust that the sequence of events is true. I only was informed once I called out the difference.

What is true thought, is that he told me at the beginning of the process that I was purchasing a ring to made of “6.92 carats 22 stones. He even wrote it in a text to me.

So it looks dishonest.
 
I reread what he wrote to you and (I am still not totally sure) it seems that he is saying that the person your jeweler bought the stones from paid for 22 stones (not your jeweler, but the person the jeweler bought from) and then once the supplier became certain how many stones were needed, he invoiced your jeweler for the price of those stones but forgot to change the number of stones he had originally ordered. If that is the case, then the price is correct.

The problem is you have to trust that he is telling you the truth. And it doesn't negate the fact that you are unhappy with the final result. I would also try to just send the ring back, get a refund, and start over. Is that a possibility? Have you brought this up? Since you live in CA you are close to many, many favored vendors here on PS.

Thank you. Where can I find some names of PS’s favored vendors in CA?
 
Thank you. Where can I find some names of PS’s favored vendors in CA?

The two that come to mind right now are David Klass (DK) an Cassie (CVB). Cassie's price point is higher but her work is gorgeous. Lots of us on here are big fans of David for his work and his price points. Victor Canera is another popular one. I believe all of them are in LA. There is a preferred vendor's list somewhere, but I am not sure where to find it! I think someone will see this and link it.

Edit: Found the list: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/list-of-vendors-for-reference.208782/
 
It doesn’t make the situation better, and doesn’t make the ring fit you nor look as intended-

But if you could use a online jewelers create-a-ring feature with similar specs / total carat weight /ring size/ stone qty & width that was created for you
And compare the price
If its in the same ballpark
Would that ‘help’ relieve the feeling of being intentionally swindled on not receiving 4 stones @ 1.22cttw you paid for? Maybe it will point to the jeweler being honest and you truly didn’t pay for those 4 stones.

I don’t know if this is feasible logic or not?

Everyone makes mistakes, and it’s not fun to think we can’t trust jewelers, especially ones we’ve worked with before.
It’s also not fun to question jewelers on specifics what we are paying for, and they get defensive because we should have ‘trust’ :(
 
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If you were to return for refund and go with another vendor, I also recommend Mark Broumand (Los Angeles) -- he makes beautiful diamond bands -- this link is to asscher bands -- https://www.markbroumand.com/search/?q=asscher diamond band -- if you were to order one of the listed asscher bands in your size, it seems you would have a 7-day return period (I would confirm this with vendor prior to placing order).

Fyi, per Mark Broumand's FAQ page:
1645387662533.png

I am unclear on the sizing of your current asscher band -- did you tell the vendor the size, and he made it a half-size smaller? Like, you said ring size 7, and he delivered ring size 6.5? Or did you say ring size 7 and the ring delivered is purported by vendor to be ring size 7 but fits a half-size too small?

When the vendor re-sized the asscher band, did he describe the process he would use to enlarge the ring and did you approve it? Or did he flatten out the inner shank without your knowledge?

Most custom projects are final sale only, but by chance do you know if your vendor does offer a return policy in your situation? If not, how much time has passed since you paid for the asscher band? Perhaps you could go through your credit card company to reverse the charge based on misrepresented item?
 
Jewels by Grace, Hannah Maytal, Victor Canera, and David Klass are all in Cali.
 
I'm pretty confused and it sounds like others are too. Could we try sharing what's happening here in a slightly different format?


(A) What date did you contact your jeweller initially about this project?

(B1) When did you tell your jeweller what your ring size was?
(B2) What did you tell your jeweller your ring size was?

(C1) When did your jeweller send you the invoice stating 22 stones?
(C2) What was the amount on this invoice (your out of pocket)?

(D1) When did your jeweller send you the invoice stating 18 stones were actually used?
(D2) Can you verify that the price on this invoice matched the amount on the invoice stating 22 stones (C2)?
The question for me is whether the price you actually paid out of pocket was intended to be for 22 stones or for 18 stones. If the price you paid out of pocket was intended to be for 22 stones but you received only 18,
(D3) Do you want your jeweller to give you the extra four stones?
(D4) Or do you want a partial refund?

(E1) What size was the ring you received prior to the resizing?
(E2) How was this size verified? Ie. Did you just drop the ring onto a mandrel and look at what number it fell to?
Here's the issue with (E2) - this design has a lot of negative space. All that space in between the Us, where there's no metal. A ring that does not have this negative space will "fit" more tightly on the finger than the Uprong style, even though they fall to the same line on the mandrel. If you told your jeweller "I wear a size 6" and your ring falls to a size 5.5 on the mandrel, then it is very possible that your jeweller interpreted your ask as "I want my ring to fit like a size 6", and therefore made it a touch smaller to account for all that extra negative space that most rings don't have. But this is something that your jeweller should have discussed with you beforehand.
(E3) Did your jeweller explain how the ring would be sized up?
(E4) What size is the ring now, after resizing?
 
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Hi all,

I just realized that my update never sent, or I missed clicking « post reply.

It was resolved

The jeweler was understanding and interested in resolving the issue.

He recognized, per our detailed invoice, that the agreed upon and paid number of stones were missing. It appears that his bench jeweler made a mistake when making my ring, and left out stones, and then grinded the metal to resize it.

The jeweler mailed me 2 of the missing stones, and refunded me for the other 2, as they no longer had them.

But, I decided not to send the ring back to be re-made (per his suggestion to fix the grinded metal issue, and to add the missing stones).

Instead, I will probably have it re-done sometime by a house recommended here in the forum.

Thanks to all for the valued feedback and support!
 
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