Help with bezel setting

[tripleX]

Hi All,

I am designing a bracelet and the one and only stone will be set in a bezel setting. It is a RBC and I am having difficulty deciding how the stone should sit in the bezel.

Should the stone be fully in the bezel or should the stone be slightly sticking out from the bezel? I can't work out what the standard is. My CAD guy suggests the bezel should be higher than the table (slightly). I guess the diamond will be protected? It is only a 0.23ct stone with 2.44mm depth, so it will not look obvious if this is the case. It is however an ideal cut stone so want to make sure it shines.

Any help will be appreciated!

The stone/setting is very similar to this as an example: https://ferkosfinejewelry.com/products/14k-gold-bezel-setting-diamond-solitaire-bracelet-0-05ctw

Thank you so much

 

[maryjane04]

I think this is a hard one. For a diamond that size you don't want it swimming in the bezel. I think it would be okay if the culet/pointy end of the diamond sticks out a little. You might feel it against your skin so I hope you're not too sensitive there.

 

[tripleX]

I think this is a hard one. For a diamond that size you don't want it swimming in the bezel. I think it would be okay if the culet/pointy end of the diamond sticks out a little. You might feel it against your skin so I hope you're not too sensitive there.

Thanks! I’ve ensured it’s deep enough so that the point isn’t poking through the end. But should the top of the bezel be flat with the table or where the pavilion/crown angles meet?

 

[maryjane04]

Thanks! I’ve ensured it’s deep enough so that the point isn’t poking through the end. But should the top of the bezel be flat with the table or where the pavilion/crown angles meet?

It should just cover the a teeny bit of the crown where the crown and pavilion meet. If you cover it all the way to the table then you're blocking out a lot of the diamond and not letting in any light.

 

[MollyMalone]

Hi, @tripleX -- is this CAD guy experienced with jewelry design?

The reason I'm asking is 'cause if he isn't capable of calculating the requisite mm height of the bezel wall -- before it's tamped/pressed down around the crown (not the table facet) of your particular round diamond -- that is not a question for you, the customer, but rather a question for the jewelsmith who will be bezel-setting the stone so as to ensure the desired rim.

 

[HWJ]

Hi All,

I am designing a bracelet and the one and only stone will be set in a bezel setting. It is a RBC and I am having difficulty deciding how the stone should sit in the bezel.

Should the stone be fully in the bezel or should the stone be slightly sticking out from the bezel? I can't work out what the standard is. My CAD guy suggests the bezel should be higher than the table (slightly). I guess the diamond will be protected? It is only a 0.23ct stone with 2.44mm depth, so it will not look obvious if this is the case. It is however an ideal cut stone so want to make sure it shines.

Any help will be appreciated!

The stone/setting is very similar to this as an example: https://ferkosfinejewelry.com/products/14k-gold-bezel-setting-diamond-solitaire-bracelet-0-05ctw

Thank you so much

For a bezel set 4 mm stone, if your bezel wall is between .5 mm and .8 mm above the stone's girdle, your setter should have plenty of metal to work with. You stone will be securely set, but without the bezel covering too much of the edge. IMO, having the wall higher than then table is unnecessary - actually, even halfway up should be fine.