Help with gemstone choice for two stone studs

[JewelNewbie]

As you can see by my username, I’m newish to fine jewelry (only have branded pieces like Cartier and VCA) and hoping to get some help.

I’d like to get a pair of two stone studs (see picture inspiration below from Verstolo) with one diamond and one colored gemstone, about 4 tcw for the earrings (so each stone is about 0.5 ct).

While I know a little about diamonds, I know next to nothing about gemstones. I have been looking at Montana sapphires and green beryl, but I am overwhelmed with the options so looking to crowd source some guidance. What I know for the earrings is that:

• I’d like a green gemstone - my favorite color and my eye color. I’m more drawn to blue-green than yellow-green
• I’d like the gemstone to be eye clean
• Ideally the gemstone would be durable and easy to clean - I always get fingerprints on my earrings
• I’d ideally like to spend less than $3k on the earrings

So, I’d like help selecting the gemstone and navigating the logistics of a custom piece.

What gemstone do you recommend?

How should I go about getting these made? I have perused the forum and it seems like there are many places I could purchase unset stones, then have them shipped off to a jeweler to be made. Is that the recommended route?

Btw I’m in the US, but not near a major metropolitan city so it may be hard for me to see stones in person.

Thanks I’m advance for the help!

ETA: also open to help with Diamond choice but i realize this is the colored gemstone forum. Thanks!

 

[JewelNewbie]

A few screenshots of gems in the color realm of what im looking for (color only, not cut or size). The first is a green beryl I tried on at a local jeweler, then some random screenshots from online.

I love the saturated round Montana sapphires, but I also like the mixed color look (is there a word for this?).

 

[Grymera]

Welcome to Pricescope!

I immediately thought of tsavorites for your green stones. They generally have very high clarity naturally, an exceptional deep green color, and are relatively affordable in the size you'd like (these are a little bigger than what you're looking for- note, I've never bought from this seller). Yvonne Raley (CecileRaleyDesigns) on etsy has a couple smaller green emerald pairs and even a demantoid garnet pair if you don't like the color of tsavorites.

Since you're new to jewelry, I think you'll be better off asking a vendor to source your garnets and diamonds. I'd try David Klass or Yvonne. Yvonne is passionate about gemstones and would be able to source some tsavorites in the perfect size for your project. I'd also let the vendor select your diamonds (ID Jewelry in New York is wonderful). Since you'll likely need at least $300-$600 for your garnets, plus the cost of settings, it'll cut into how big your diamonds can be with your budget. A skilled vendor can help you navigate getting the right color/clarity with an excellent cut for them to still come out a good value.

If I were you, I'd submit a query to the vendors mentioned and see what they say.

 

[Grymera]

Ah, seeing your update, I'd try for a blue-green tourmaline instead of sapphires for a more budget friendly approach. Or, you could purchase those sapphires from Gemfix and then do lab diamonds to save on costs and be on budget. If you're looking for something bicolored and moody, a vendor might have a harder time matching you up with a stone versus looking for something more uniform.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I was going to suggest emeralds until I saw your second post! I was way off. lol Maybe stick with the Montana sapphires then? Also, I believe you are referring to "parti" or "bicolor" sapphires. Yes, for something like this, I think you'd definitely need to source the stones and then have the earrings custom made. What a fabulous idea! Good luck!!

 

[JSG2185]

I think Montana sapphires would look beautiful paired with diamonds

 

[JewelNewbie]

Thank you all for your input!!

@Grymera thank you for such a thoughtful response. I was thinking about getting the diamonds from IDJ if I was going to source my own stones. Do you think it’s reasonable to get the diamonds separately, then send them to one of the other vendors you mentioned (I’ll be sending off inquiries today!)?

@Autumn in New England thank you! out of curiosity, why would it be different for a vendor to source parti stones versus uniform color?

I would also value input on a reasonable price. I don’t have a ton of jewelry in my wardrobe and plan to keep it that way, so I would rather do this project right than compromise due to a strict budget.

I think I’d like the diamonds to be emeralds, and for the gemstone (let’s stick with Montana sapphire for now) to be ovals. What specs should I be looking for? From the little I know about diamonds, I was planning to prioritize clarity for the emeralds (vvs1+) but also shoot for colorless (D-F). Does that sound reasonable? What should I be looking for with the sapphires in terms of grading?

 

[chrono]

See if you can see any Montana sapphires in person. Most tend to be moody and shift dramatically in colouration depending on the light source. Are you sure you are ok with that?

If you want the ECs to sparkle, it has nothing to do with colour nor clarity. It has everything to do with how well cut they are (table, depth, crown height, step pattern, etc).

 

[Grymera]

@chrono It'll be difficult for a vendor to source your sapphires for two reasons 1) they're non trade ideal, meaning that you're looking for specific qualities that usually, vendors try to avoid for most client stones (parti/bicolor, coloring that is blue green vs true blue or blue/violet) so it's unusual for them. There's not an easy rubric for what they should be prioritizing. 2) Because what you want is so specific and speaks to the personality of the stone, it's like asking a vendor to source your wedding dress. You can say you want it white, and long, with sleeves, but there's the risk that the vendor's going to spend time finding 3 dresses and you see them and think they're hideous/not right for you. (Versus if you wanted trade ideal, it's much easier to say, I want a Kate Middleton replica with silk and lace and everyone knows exactly what we're looking for).

Here's my .02 - don't buy your diamonds first. There are a bazillion emerald cut diamonds out there. Buy your sapphires, use up as much budget as you need to get them exactly right, and order them. Once they arrive, live with them for a while. Take them out, look at them, enjoy them, see them in all kinds of lighting, etc. Once your sapphires are perfect, order some loose CZs (Chris CZ diamond Co UK has all kinds of sizes and colors from colorless to warm). Use packing tape and arrange and compare. Live with it a while. Then decide on the size and quality of diamonds.

Working fast and working online for new jewelry buyers leads to mistakes. Order it, buy it, see it for a while, and live with them.

 

[JSG2185]

I could be wrong, and I know some people are very, very color sensitive to the smallest little tinges, but I think D-F for earring/studs may be overkill. I would drop to G or H and get the best cut possible within budget for emerald cuts (cut makes ALL the difference).

As for clarity, to me VVS1+ seems a little overkill, especially for earrings which are smaller and not worn on a finger. I would go to VS1 and be open to considering VS2 for emerald cuts as long as the inclusion is not right smack in the middle of the table.

Hope this helps!

Thank you all for your input!!

@Grymera thank you for such a thoughtful response. I was thinking about getting the diamonds from IDJ if I was going to source my own stones. Do you think it’s reasonable to get the diamonds separately, then send them to one of the other vendors you mentioned (I’ll be sending off inquiries today!)?

@Autumn in New England thank you! out of curiosity, why would it be different for a vendor to source parti stones versus uniform color?

I would also value input on a reasonable price. I don’t have a ton of jewelry in my wardrobe and plan to keep it that way, so I would rather do this project right than compromise due to a strict budget.

I think I’d like the diamonds to be emeralds, and for the gemstone (let’s stick with Montana sapphire for now) to be ovals. What specs should I be looking for? From the little I know about diamonds, I was planning to prioritize clarity for the emeralds (vvs1+) but also shoot for colorless (D-F). Does that sound reasonable? What should I be looking for with the sapphires in terms of grading?

 

[JewelNewbie]

See if you can see any Montana sapphires in person. Most tend to be moody and shift dramatically in colouration depending on the light source. Are you sure you are ok with that?

If you want the ECs to sparkle, it has nothing to do with colour nor clarity. It has everything to do with how well cut they are (table, depth, crown height, step pattern, etc).

Great point about the shift in color - I think I’m okay with that but I also think I may just need to live with it because it’ll be difficult for me to compare stones in person based on my location. Is it typical to ask vendors for videos in different lighting?

And thanks for the input on the diamonds - I guess I was thinking that because of the way emeralds are cut, it’s much easier to see inclusions with the naked eye. Color-wise, I just think my skin tone exaggerates any bit of yellow, but point taken on cut! Thank you.

Working fast and working online for new jewelry buyers leads to mistakes. Order it, buy it, see it for a while, and live with them.

I love your analogy to buying a wedding dress (I just got married!). Makes total sense.

I like your suggestion of working slow, and starting with the sapphires. When I reach out to vendors, besides describing the color and weight I’m looking to achieve, what else is important to specify? (E.g if I were sourcing diamonds, I’d also specify cut and clarity - are there similar gradings for gemstones, besides “sparkly and eye clean?”)

I could be wrong, and I know some people are very, very color sensitive to the smallest little tinges, but I think D-F for earring/studs may be overkill. I would drop to G or H and get the best cut possible within budget for emerald cuts (cut makes ALL the difference).

As for clarity, to me VVS1+ seems a little overkill, especially for earrings which are smaller and not worn on a finger. I would go to VS1 and be open to considering VS2 for emerald cuts as long as the inclusion is not right smack in the middle of the table.

Hope this helps!

Thank you so much for the input on the diamonds. Your points make sense to me - I guess I was erring on the side of caution re: clarity since I thought it would be easier to see inclusions with emeralds. I will prioritize cut! But to Grymera’s point I will probably do those second.

 

[CBianco]

Calebbquashen on IG has plenty of green/parti colored sapphires like your inspiration photos. Echoing others above, they can be very shifty so you'll have to keep that in mind.

Good luck with your search!

 

[LilAlex]

Cool idea!

On word of caution: parti-color half-ct sapphires on an ear will look pretty homogeneous. Unlike with a ring that you can really bring right up to your (or someone else's) eye, it's hard to get to see too much detail at the level of the individual stone in a stud earring, imo, unless you are doing several cts per stone. It's really more of a pop of color. And with that in mind, I would not make the color differential -- between the diamond and the colored stone -- too subtle since the stones are standing shoulder-to-shoulder already.

 

[JewelNewbie]

Okay, so I have been in contact with Yvonne (sent her the gem fix photo from above and the Verstolo 2 stone earring inspo) and have an update and a couple questions:

She said she can help source the stones, no problem. She suggested exploring Madagascar sapphires because Montana sapphires come at a premium due to US Labor costs. She also clarified the size I'm looking for based on mm dimensions (not carat weight) and suggested 6mm x 4mm.

Today, she also was able to find a (heated) pair from one of her vendors (rightmost pair in the photo below) for $300 for the total pair (She said she has no sourcing fee on top of the $300).

I don't think the color is very close to what I am shooting for, but she said she would check them out in person. I said I was looking for a blue-leaning green (like the gem fix photo from above) and she said the example I sent was more yellow-green.

So, given the above, I have several questions for the group:

• Does 6mm x 4mm seem about right for each stone if they are to be paired with a 0.5 ct emerald cut diamond? (I think so, based on my research but want to confirm)
• Does origin matter? Should I care about this (other than wanting the stones to be ethically sourced)?
• Is the low price a reflection of poor quality? I explained to her that I'm willing to splurge to find the perfect stone but she said she should be able to find some at a reasonable price (<$500).
• Is the stone being heated a dealbreaker (I realize this may be personal preference)? For example, is it akin to buying a lab diamond? I'd really prefer something totally natural but not sure I understand the nuances of gemstones
• Am I just misinterpreting the undertones in the example I sent? Those stones read more aqua green to me than olive green to my eye. I don't know if it matters a ton since it's just semantics, but I want to make sure she understands the color I'm trying to achieve. Are there any other example stones you suggest I send her?
• Is it typical for her not to have a sourcing fee? I guess I'm just confused about how she makes $ on this transaction (unless she is applying a premium on top of the amount the vendor is charging her for the stones).
• Finally, if I don't love the stones she sent based on the photo, should I just tell her not to even bother "looking at them" (does this mean having them shipped to her?) next week?

Thanks again for all the help with this (since clearly I am new)!

 

[JewelNewbie]

Cool idea!

On word of caution: parti-color half-ct sapphires on an ear will look pretty homogeneous. Unlike with a ring that you can really bring right up to your (or someone else's) eye, it's hard to get to see too much detail at the level of the individual stone in a stud earring, imo, unless you are doing several cts per stone. It's really more of a pop of color. And with that in mind, I would not make the color differential -- between the diamond and the colored stone -- too subtle since the stones are standing shoulder-to-shoulder already.

Sorry, I saw this and forgot to reply. This is such a great point. I decided based on your comment that I'd like a uniform, saturated stone for this project.

 

[Avondale]

To be honest, all of these stones (maybe with the exception of the right-most pair) seem gray to me. Just... plain old gray. And they black out. The left pair is also terribly windowed. The inspiration photos you showed at the start have beautiful saturation which I don't see with these ones.

At first while reading your post I was going to say that difference in screens can cause difference in perception of colour, but then I saw the photos and first two pairs have nothing in common with the teal and green colour you want.

If you're sure you don't care about the sapphires offered, definitely say so. Open and clear communication is key, the vendor doesn't have a way to guess what you're thinking, they go by what you say.

Does origin matter? Should I care about this (other than wanting the stones to be ethically sourced)?

No. Unless you want to care, of course. Some people do care. Matter of personal and subjective views. A beautiful stone will be beautiful regardless of which part of the earth it came from.

Is the stone being heated a dealbreaker (I realize this may be personal preference)? For example, is it akin to buying a lab diamond? I'd really prefer something totally natural but not sure I understand the nuances of gemstones

Yes, it's a personal preference. On one hand, it is treatment. The stone looked different when it was first mined and the extra heat applied changed it. On the other hand, it's a widely accepted treatment and it is thanks to it that there are enough sapphires on the market to satisfy demand.

I would say heating a sapphire is in a way akin to adding extra salt to a dish. The cook (nature) used salt (heat) in the making of the dish (sapphire) but the end result is a bit bland. So you add a bit more for that extra oomph. The heat used is in no way more than nature itself could provide. It's not like filling the stone with glass or diffusing it with another mineral which nature definitely wouldn't do - which treatments affect the value of the stone greatly.

I have one sapphire which is heated and one which is untreated. I wear both with equal joy. Some people insist their stones aren't treated in any way and for them it's a mind clean sort of thing. Only you can determine what's important to you.

 

[Timor]

Yay another green sapphire lover!
Second everything Avondale said. I myself don't mind heat treatment (especially as it saves money), but it should be the only treatment.
In most cases low price is for a reason (not saying there aren't steals to be found now and then), but I think for 0.5 carat stones the price should not be too high.
Also personally I think cut is going to make a lot of difference, especially for on an ear. I would have higher requirement on color saturation and bling because it needs to pop and and hold its own next to a diamond. As much as I love green sapphires, they are moodier and not as blingy as say tsavorites (only saying this as I imagine it next to a diamond its size), you might want to avoid the darker ones and look at it side by side with a diamond or mossanite for a better idea of the end result. Just my 2c.

 

[Grymera]

Yvonne is extremely reputable and well-regarded; you can do some searches of other threads to see other's experiences with her. Not having a sourcing fee isn't uncommon, as she'll charge a markup on the final stones (as does virtually every business).

For the size, IMO you MUST figure this out in person. Go to a jewelry store and try on some studs that size. Cut out pieces of paper and measure them. Order $2 CZs or lab gems loose to look at. Get a pair of cheapie CZ studs in that size from Amazon. You will make mistakes and will not be happy if you're not viewing sizes in real life.

Price wise, by going for a smaller size, it'll be less expensive. I wouldn't worry about that. But if you don't know your sizes for your stones, you'll be in trouble.

 

[JewelNewbie]

What do you all think of these stones? I mocked up what I’d like them to look like and received these options from a different Etsy vendor (GranGem) this morning. It seems like these have potential but they might not be as bright and saturated as I’d like. What do you think? $895 for a two.

 

[JewelNewbie]

Yvonne is extremely reputable and well-regarded; you can do some searches of other threads to see other's experiences with her. Not having a sourcing fee isn't uncommon, as she'll charge a markup on the final stones (as does virtually every business).

For the size, IMO you MUST figure this out in person. Go to a jewelry store and try on some studs that size. Cut out pieces of paper and measure them. Order $2 CZs or lab gems loose to look at. Get a pair of cheapie CZ studs in that size from Amazon. You will make mistakes and will not be happy if you're not viewing sizes in real life.

Price wise, by going for a smaller size, it'll be less expensive. I wouldn't worry about that. But if you don't know your sizes for your stones, you'll be in trouble.

Thank you for this advice!! I’ve been researching stone size and I agree, seems like there are a ton of cheap options out there for me to verify. Will do that!

 

[JewelNewbie]

Here is a video (I think I did this right but let me know if not):

https://imgur.com/a/4cmbHI5

It seems a bit too transparent but the seller thinks it is the video quality and is willing to offer a return if I don’t like it in person. Thoughts?

 

[Starstruck8]

What do you all think of these stones? I mocked up what I’d like them to look like and received these options from a different Etsy vendor (GranGem) this morning. It seems like these have potential but they might not be as bright and saturated as I’d like. What do you think? $895 for a two.

I love your mockup. The pictured stones look too dark and not saturated enough to make it work. Remember, they will be sitting next to bright shiny diamonds.

Here is a video (I think I did this right but let me know if not):

The video works fine. The white balance seems off. See how the tweezers look blue? The stone only a bit bluer than the tweezers. So if you mentally correct the tweezers to silver/grey, the stone will be only slightly blue. Also, the contrast with the tan background makes everything else look bluer. Whether this is 'just what happened' or borderline dishonest of the vendor, I wouldn't like to say. But either way, it makes it hard to judge the stone. Maybe you can ask the vendor for a similar video with a grey/white background?

As others have said, nicely saturated teal sapphires do exist but are hard to find. I have seen some good ones from Madagascar. I think the colour you want will be easier to find in a tsavorite or tourmaline.

 

[JewelNewbie]

The video works fine. The white balance seems off. See how the tweezers look blue? The stone only a bit bluer than the tweezers. So if you mentally correct the tweezers to silver/grey, the stone will be only slightly blue. Also, the contrast with the tan background makes everything else look bluer. Whether this is 'just what happened' or borderline dishonest of the vendor, I wouldn't like to say. But either way, it makes it hard to judge the stone. Maybe you can ask the vendor for a similar video with a grey/white background?

As others have said, nicely saturated teal sapphires do exist but are hard to find. I have seen some good ones from Madagascar. I think the colour you want will be easier to find in a tsavorite or tourmaline.

Thank you so much for that input - totally makes sense. Aside from the shade of the stones, do you think they are too transparent? I think I am going to pass on these as the shade isn't perfect for what I'm looking for, but I'm curious if you are concerned about the transparency so I know what to look for when evaluating pics/videos in the future.

 

[Avondale]

Not sure what you mean by “too transparent”. We usually want stones to be as transparent as possible so that light can pass through them and reflect on the facets. It’s what makes them sparkle. What is it that you don’t like about this stone that makes you wish it was “less transparent”?

 

[JewelNewbie]

Not sure what you mean by “too transparent”. We usually want stones to be as transparent as possible so that light can pass through them and reflect on the facets. It’s what makes them sparkle. What is it that you don’t like about this stone that makes you wish it was “less transparent”?

Maybe I'm not using the right terminology and it is just a color thing. But, in the screenshot I grabbed below, the stone goes totally devoid of color and transparent (versus the other photo where it looks less transparent to me). Maybe that is normal for a gemstone from certain angles?

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

This vendor uses a lot of Montana sapphire. They may be able to help.

Natural Gems | Stag & Finch

www.stagandfinch.com

 

[JewelNewbie]

This vendor uses a lot of Montana sapphire. They may be able to help.

Natural Gems | Stag & Finch

www.stagandfinch.com

Thanks! I just reached out to them! I'll provide an update if they can find something.

 

[Avondale]

Maybe I'm not using the right terminology

That’s why I asked for a clarification.

Okay, about the first picture - this is showing the stone from the bottom side. Yes, the colour would appear different looking at the gem upside down.

When a gem is faceted, you have the top part, the one that you see when the gem is mounted - that’s called a crown. And the bottom part which is called a pavilion. The idea is that light enters through the crown, bounces around inside the stone, reflecting on the pavilion facets, and exits again through the crown to your eyes. If you’re looking at the stone from the bottom side, the light would just be passing through the body, it wouldn’t be bouncing back to your eyes. That’s why you see it as transparent and devoid of colour.

Now, when you’re looking at the gem from the proper side, you might see a similar phenomenon if there’s a window. Look at the left-most pair of those three sapphires you posted before. They’re windowed. The middle part shows no colour, no facets, like looking straight through glass.

Since you mentioned angles - there’s such a thing as a tilt window, meaning the stone will show some window from a certain angle. This is expected and shouldn’t concern you too much.

Now, this last sapphire doesn’t seem to have a window but I have to agree with Starstruck, it leaves some to be desired in terms of saturation. And even through the colour is a pastel shade of blue, it still has some significant dark areas.

To be fully honest, none of the options presented to you so far look similar to what you were initially looking for. Especially when you take into account vendors make sure their gems look their best in photos and often the stone colour isn’t as saturated and the dark areas are even darker. I’d keep searching. It’s better to give the project some more time but to be fully satisfied with the end result.

 

[JewelNewbie]

That’s why I asked for a clarification.

Okay, about the first picture - this is showing the stone from the bottom side. Yes, the colour would appear different looking at the gem upside down.

When a gem is faceted, you have the top part, the one that you see when the gem is mounted - that’s called a crown. And the bottom part which is called a pavilion. The idea is that light enters through the crown, bounces around inside the stone, reflecting on the pavilion facets, and exits again through the crown to your eyes. If you’re looking at the stone from the bottom side, the light would just be passing through the body, it wouldn’t be bouncing back to your eyes. That’s why you see it as transparent and devoid of colour.

Now, when you’re looking at the gem from the proper side, you might see a similar phenomenon if there’s a window. Look at the left-most pair of those three sapphires you posted before. They’re windowed. The middle part shows no colour, no facets, like looking straight through glass.

Since you mentioned angles - there’s such a thing as a tilt window, meaning the stone will show some window from a certain angle. This is expected and shouldn’t concern you too much.

Now, this last sapphire doesn’t seem to have a window but I have to agree with Starstruck, it leaves some to be desired in terms of saturation. And even through the colour is a pastel shade of blue, it still has some significant dark areas.

To be fully honest, none of the options presented to you so far look similar to what you were initially looking for. Especially when you take into account vendors make sure their gems look their best in photos and often the stone colour isn’t as saturated and the dark areas are even darker. I’d keep searching. It’s better to give the project some more time but to be fully satisfied with the end result.

Ah - I see what you mean! I guess I have never looked at loose stones before, so I've never contemplated the light reflection from the bottom potentially affecting the color.

Good to know re: tilt window.

And great point about vendors making sure they present their gems favorably. I will keep searching. I sincerely appreciate all the explanation and education!

 

[GranGem]

Hello Pricescope!
Since a private conversation was made public here I would like to add the information that was not included. These are not my photos and videos they are from a supplier, I'm not trying to deceive anyone and they are not either. Time stamps are all there. OP I genuinely hope you find the perfect stones for your project.
-Mike