Help with setting for Emerald cut diamond! Prongs? Metal?

[Mjay]

I told myself I wasn’t going to post until I had the diamond in my hand but I’m just so excited and confident that I’m going to love it so I’m already planning on how I want to set it. It’s a 3.67 ct emerald cut (arriving Tuesday!) I’m thinking simple solitaire in white gold or platinum.

Things I need help with so far:

1- prongs. I’ve never had an emerald cut before. Are the corners a major weak point? I love the look of a minimal dainty claw prong but should I do double claw prongs for safety? Or even tab prongs? Thoughts?

2- platinum or white gold? My local jeweler said never do platinum unless you have side stones, pave, engraving, etc. He said it scratches and dents so easily that it will look terrible on a plain band. Thoughts on this? (I don’t usually do white metals so it’s new territory for me).

- Also might go rogue from my original plan and do an 18k yellow gold bezel but trying to fight that urge. If anyone has a larger bezel emerald cut please share!

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

Can’t wait to see the finished ring! 3.67 is a wow size!!

I personally prefer WG to platinum, I don’t like how heavy platinum is and I don’t like the greyish patina. My skin is protective of rhodium so I almost never have to re-plate. Maybe once in a few years, tops.

The corners of an emerald cut are delicate, so I would be hesitant to do a single claw prong. I think double claws or tabs are better. I’d ask the jeweler what they recommend.

 

[foxinsox]

I told myself I wasn’t going to post until I had the diamond in my hand but I’m just so excited and confident that I’m going to love it so I’m already planning on how I want to set it. It’s a 3.67 ct emerald cut (arriving Tuesday!) I’m thinking simple solitaire in white gold or platinum.

Things I need help with so far:

1- prongs. I’ve never had an emerald cut before. Are the corners a major weak point? I love the look of a minimal dainty claw prong but should I do double claw prongs for safety? Or even tab prongs? Thoughts?

2- platinum or white gold? My local jeweler said never do platinum unless you have side stones, pave, engraving, etc. He said it scratches and dents so easily that it will look terrible on a plain band. Thoughts on this? (I don’t usually do white metals so it’s new territory for me).

- Also might go rogue from my original plan and do an 18k yellow gold bezel but trying to fight that urge. If anyone has a larger bezel emerald cut please share!

Don’t fight the urge - look at these lovely bezelled step cuts!
EC sapphire https://www.victorbarbone.com/products/4-carat-sapphire-engagement-ring?_pos=62&_sid=f15548fb4&_ss=r
Bezelled asscher https://www.victorbarbone.com/produ...ring-baguettes-1?_pos=72&_sid=f15548fb4&_ss=r
Ps 3.67ct is a fantastic size! Congratulations

 

[Mjay]

Can’t wait to see the finished ring! 3.67 is a wow size!!

I personally prefer WG to platinum, I don’t like how heavy platinum is and I don’t like the greyish patina. My skin is protective of rhodium so I almost never have to re-plate. Maybe once in a few years, tops.

The corners of an emerald cut are delicate, so I would be hesitant to do a single claw prong. I think double claws or tabs are better. I’d ask the jeweler what they recommend.

Thank you! This is helpful

 

[Mjay]

Don’t fight the urge - look at these lovely bezelled step cuts!
EC sapphire https://www.victorbarbone.com/products/4-carat-sapphire-engagement-ring?_pos=62&_sid=f15548fb4&_ss=r
Bezelled asscher https://www.victorbarbone.com/produ...ring-baguettes-1?_pos=72&_sid=f15548fb4&_ss=r
Ps 3.67ct is a fantastic size! Congratulations

Soooo pretty! I have this one saved in my phone
I’m obsessed my stone is a 1.47 ratio and much whiter though so it would look very different but man I’m loving this. I really want something that looks good stacked with different bands and I’m feeling simple 4 prong solitaire is the way to go. I’ll have to look at bezels paired with bands and see how I feel. I haven’t seen many larger stones bezeled

 

[MillieLou]

I massively prefer platinum to plated white gold for rings. The weight feels luxurious and solid. Plus since I watched this video on how to polish (burnish) platinum at home, I've realised I can keep it as shiny as I like without losing any metal!

My own EC is in a 14K plated WG temp setting that I will shortly be replacing with a platinum plain metal solitaire. I don't like its lightness and psychologically I just don't like plated metal. That may just be me.

Unplated white gold is lovely if you like this colour though (I do). Though make sure you don't have nickel allergies, or make sure a non-nickel alloy is used. (It's possible to develop nickel allergies over time, which is another reason I prefer platinum).

I love the look of double prongs, but on reading up on them, it seems they are harder to do well than single claw prongs. If you have a jeweller who is experienced with them and can show you good examples they have done, I'd be inclined to go double. I have gone for single claw prongs because that's the specialty of the jeweller I'm using, and I know they can do them well. Plus my stone is smaller than yours (2ct) so a single prong provides decent corner coverage.

I really love the YG bezel! I thought of similar for mine, but I know that I am fickle in my tastes, and decided the plainer and more classic I went, the less likely I am to get fed up with it

 

[Diamond Girl 21]

I personally don't like the patina that platinum gets, so I typically use 18kt white gold for diamonds. Platinum is the go to classic, but it's not for me. Decisions about diamond color, clarity, and metal color are very personal. I would ask your jeweler, or friends and family if you can take a look at their settings, especially older ones. See what you like and don't like about the each option.

Edited to add that I like double prongs on an emerald cut. Good luck!

 

[Cerulean]

Oh, see I LOVE the patina that platinum gets! You mentioned in another post that you liked the brushed/satin finish, that’s basically what happens to platinum over time.

Here’s a quick comparison- the top is a platinum ring I’ve worn everyday for a few weeks. You can see it’s already getting marked up.

The bottom is a platinum ring I’ve worn everyday for a year. I think platinum gets better and better with age! All of those marks meld into a soft, subtle glow over time. I think it’s gorgeous.



I’d pick it over WG hands down unless you like unplated white gold. I personally don’t want to cover up the metals natural color, but that’s me.

 

[Mjay]

Thank you everyone for your responses so far. If I do end up with white gold I plan to do 18k palladium white gold so no plating.

I massively prefer platinum to plated white gold for rings. The weight feels luxurious and solid. Plus since I watched this video on how to polish (burnish) platinum at home, I've realised I can keep it as shiny as I like without losing any metal!

My own EC is in a 14K plated WG temp setting that I will shortly be replacing with a platinum plain metal solitaire. I don't like its lightness and psychologically I just don't like plated metal. That may just be me.

Unplated white gold is lovely if you like this colour though (I do). Though make sure you don't have nickel allergies, or make sure a non-nickel alloy is used. (It's possible to develop nickel allergies over time, which is another reason I prefer platinum).

I love the look of double prongs, but on reading up on them, it seems they are harder to do well than single claw prongs. If you have a jeweller who is experienced with them and can show you good examples they have done, I'd be inclined to go double. I have gone for single claw prongs because that's the specialty of the jeweller I'm using, and I know they can do them well. Plus my stone is smaller than yours (2ct) so a single prong provides decent corner coverage.

I really love the YG bezel! I thought of similar for mine, but I know that I am fickle in my tastes, and decided the plainer and more classic I went, the less likely I am to get fed up with it

thank you! This is very helpful. Unfortunately and surprisingly I don’t know anyone with platinum rings. My first engagement ring (failed engagement about 12 years ago) was platinum. I remember it had a deep scratch after about a week that drove me nuts but I didn’t have it long enough to get a good feel for the metal. I did love the weight though. If I do white gold it will most likely be Unplated 14k or 18k palladium white gold Unplated. Good tip about checking to see how my jeweler does with double prongs. They’ve done amazing single claws for me in the past but never double.

 

[Mjay]

Oh, see I LOVE the patina that platinum gets! You mentioned in another post that you liked the brushed/satin finish, that’s basically what happens to platinum over time.

Here’s a quick comparison- the top is a platinum ring I’ve worn everyday for a few weeks. You can see it’s already getting marked up.

The bottom is a platinum ring I’ve worn everyday for a year. I think platinum gets better and better with age! All of those marks meld into a soft, subtle glow over time. I think it’s gorgeous.



I’d pick it over WG hands down unless you like unplated white gold. I personally don’t want to cover up the metals natural color, but that’s me.

Thank you! I do love a good matte finish.

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

Setting in platinum, band in white gold

 

[Mjay]

I have a few more questions for everyone. I hope to finalize my choices ASAP so that my jeweler can get started on a CAD. Anyways I have decided to go with platinum and 95% sure on double baby claw prongs. I’m currently torn between cathedral or a traditional shank. Is there any risk of the shoulders reflecting weirdly into my diamond with a cathedral setting (because it’s an emerald cut)? Also does anyone have any links to a good resource describing different types of band shapes for solitaires? Ie- flat side, comfort fit. I’m pretty sure I’m wanting more of a comfort fit but I want more info to make sure I know what I’m talking about when communicating with my jeweler.

 

[Mjay]

I decided to go with DK for this project instead of the jeweler I was originally planning on working with. I received my 1st CAD from Amy today. What do you guys think? I’m going with platinum.

 

[ecf8503]

Looks great!

 

[Mjay]

Looks great!

thank you! I think it’s perfect but wanted a second opinion in case I’m missing something.

 

[dmack]

I decided to go with DK for this project instead of the jeweler I was originally planning on working with. I received my 1st CAD from Amy today. What do you guys think? I’m going with platinum.

Lovely! I saw you asked about shank design above - are you happy with this version?

ETA Oops, hit return too quickly!
I like this shank profile a lot! It’s what I got from DK as well. It’s comfort fit on the inside and feels like butter.

 

[Mjay]

Lovely! I saw you asked about shank design above - are you happy with this version?

ETA Oops, hit return too quickly!
I like this shank profile a lot! It’s what I got from DK as well. It’s comfort fit on the inside and feels like butter.

I honestly was so torn as to whether or not to do a cathedral setting or not. I find that I’m so ridiculously indecisive that I just have to make a decision and go for it. I saw an inspiration ring on Instagram and I absolutely loved how simple it was so I sent it to him. I LOVE comfort fit.

 

[dmack]

I honestly was so torn as to whether or not to do a cathedral setting or not. I find that I’m so ridiculously indecisive that I just have to make a decision and go for it. I saw an inspiration ring on Instagram and I absolutely loved how simple it was so I sent it to him. I LOVE comfort fit.

I am usually a cathedral person but with an emerald cut of this size (honker!) I think the current design is better. Can’t wait to see it!