High End Recs in NY or London - Diamond Setting

[jmill76]

Hi! Been a long time lurker but wanted to ask for help from this amazing community. I want to start buying more custom made jewellery for myself, mainly construct a pair of chandelier earrings as the immediate need. I would love to develop a relationship with someone that is known for creating high end custom settings& pieces that are on par with the the top luxury brands (Graff, Winston, etc).

Based between NY and London and would greatly appreciate the help. A friend of a friend did give me the name and number of someone that does this level of work in London (he used to work for Graff) but I have lost the piece of paper! I remember him mentioning he's not in Hatton Gardens but does exquisite jewellery.

I've gone through all the previous posts and love the work of some of the vendors mentioned here, but I'm not sure if it's at the same level I'm looking for as I'm assuming that they probably don't have a website and it's all word of mouth.

Can someone point in the right direction? Thank you!

 

[Rockdiamond]

HI Jmill!
First off...the title of your thread mentions "diamond setting"..there's so much more to it...it sounds like you're looking for a full service manufacturing jeweler, as opposed to "a setter"

I'm assuming that they probably don't have a website and it's all word of mouth.

For sure there are "cottage" industry jewelers- the work lends itself to small shops...but....
For most people looking...they're looking for things that are actually from the Hatton Gardens" sort of store- or look like they are.
From my perspective, "mainstream" jewelers of high repute are well known, for more than "word of mouth" I hope this helps!!

 

[TXwidow]

perhaps you could provide more info as to the 'style' you like? There are places like Leon M, that are more on the 'minimalist' side and then other that are more ornate/detailed.

 

[Travelgal]

Try Hancocks in London- Burlington arcade.

 

[LilAlex]

Some random thoughts in random order:

Do you have a very unique "ask" or style? Most of what can be bought at the places you mention will be one-offs and indistinguishable from a custom piece, imo.

Hoping to not offend but are you looking to: 1) save money; or 2) create something that no one in your circle will have ever seen before? Two very different solutions. For me, it's 1); I have poked around the occasional Graff but I can only window-shop there. I have never heard anyone say they want a custom ring that looks like a Harry Winston but isn't a Harry Winston unless they did not want to pay HW prices.

Creating something from scratch is hard and time-consuming. Imo, if you do not have an idea book or inspo screenshots, the relationship can fail. We have had a number of modestly-priced custom things made and have been extremely happy. You won't know how good "good" workmanship really is until you see it next to "not so good." And if there are 1,000 emails and sketches going back and forth and a hundred hours of invested time, you will be paying for that somehow even if it is not immediately apparent.

I am sure that you know that buying a vintage or antique piece is more cost-effective (and often way more cost-effective) than sourcing your own stones at retail (or retail+) prices and shopping for custom design work.

If I were in London, I would run to Berganza -- just to see what's there. I know nothing about their bench but I bet they can do great repairs (!). In NY, Inken at Enhoerning is an amazing resource for sourcing top-notch untreated colored stones. She also does lovely custom work and many here have had things made through her. She has a great eye and functions like a broker and makes the rounds at NY auctions and wholesalers. I probably missed my (financial) window to buy a nice Burma ruby or any Kashmir sapphire but I don't think I would consider either without having her vet it for me.

If you have a healthy budget, the world's your oyster. Like many of us, I thought the pandemic would create a buying opportunity -- and it did to some degree for the first half of 2020. But ever since, with the well-off stuck at home and portfolios inexplicably soaring, the "bargains" have disappeared...

 

[yssie]

Ditto previous posters.
1. What chandelier style are you looking for (do you have any “similar to this” or “elements of that” photos?) and
2. What’s your budget. And please just tell us, don’t be coy about it - we will make different recommendations based on what you come back with.

Many of us have relationships with multiple jewellers, who we take different projects to, as expert designers tend to specialize in specific areas and/or eras and/or methods of manufacture.

Not sure about UK but in the US in 2022 having some online presence - whether that’s website, Instagram, both - is the norm.