How do you estimate how much things will cost to set?

[Sabrina31]

I keep seeing tons of gems that i think are gorgeous, but i'm afraid to buy them all and then have to have them sit for years before i can set them. CvB has beautiful stuff, but seems really pricey, especially since realistically i'm going to be buying less expensive gems to begin with. I've ordered a couple stones, one huge amethyst from dana at mastercut gems, and a garnet from Jeff Davies, but other than that i'm afraid to buy because i don't know how to figure out an estimated setting cost. Any ideas or help there? I'm still new to colored stones and the learning curve is steep

 

[YadaYadaYada]

I feel your pain, recently joined some groups on FB and there are so many pretty stones out there! I am working with Julia B on Etsy for my sapphire, she has some simple gold settings in the $800 range. What you could do is visit a local shop, preferably family owned not a chain store, and see what they have for settings and what they would charge. Just make sure you ask if they insure the stone while it's being set in case of damage.

 

[MissyBeaucoup]

If you are on Etsy, I highly recommend both JuliaB and IvyandRose Vintage for reasonably priced settings. It's common to pair colored stones with diamonds and that's where things get expensive fast, especially if you like halos. A lot of the people here who found bargains on settings worked with local jewelers who can acquire stock settings, from Stuller, for example. If you go to EBay, remember that cheaper settings may mean flimsy construction. Enjoy!

 

[Hivona]

I keep seeing tons of gems that i think are gorgeous, but i'm afraid to buy them all and then have to have them sit for years before i can set them. CvB has beautiful stuff, but seems really pricey, especially since realistically i'm going to be buying less expensive gems to begin with. I've ordered a couple stones, one huge amethyst from dana at mastercut gems, and a garnet from Jeff Davies, but other than that i'm afraid to buy because i don't know how to figure out an estimated setting cost. Any ideas or help there? I'm still new to colored stones and the learning curve is steep

Sabrina31, it sounds like you and me are in the same boat! I am new to colored gems and settings and pretty much the whole thing! Ive been lurking on PriceScope and Loupetroop.com and learning a lot, seeing pros and cons of different stones, cutting and settings. I have purchased 5 stones in the last 2-3 months ranging in price from $95-250. Of course I have MANY more that I want to purchase even beyond that price range. I found a local jeweler that is on the recommended vendors list and for a plain 14k solitaire setting (no side stones, no halo, nothing) it will set me back at least $500 before taxes!!! I love rings, not so much earrings or pendants and so right now I am trying to only purchase stones that I will actually set and wear. But it still seems I will be paying considerably more for settings than stones!

 

[Sabrina31]

Hivona, thats actually super helpful, I should get the garnet i ordered from jeff davies first, and have a local jeweler in mind, but its helpful to know what a simple solitaire setting would start at. It looks like we're at about the same point and budget. Sadly i have kinda champagne tastes and a box wine budget LOL

 

[MissyBeaucoup]

There are so many pretty colored stones, even garnets or precious stones that have inclusions, that can be found for a reasonable price. Somebody said here that if you can find a setting for under $800, it's a bargain. There is a thread on here for total rings costing under $1250 that we should bump up so you can get some ideas.

 

[chrono]

If looking for an off the shelf or non custom setting, which are cheaper than made to order, look for stones that are calibrated in size (4 x 6 oval or 5 x 7 pear or 6 x 8 emerald) and stones that are not too deep since coloured stones are usually cut differently. Avoid stones that are too flat topped and too bottom heavy.

 

[elle_71125]

I have a lot of gems just sitting in a box waiting for their forever homes. Settings are expensive and I very rarely buy calibrated stones (so I always end up going custom). I tend to work with one jeweler (David Klass) so I usually have a rough idea on pricing (though, sometimes, even I get a quote that makes me go ).

This is an interesting thread. I look forward to seeing what others have to say.

 

[chatoyancy]

Sabrina31, you could also ask Jeff and Dana directly if their stones would work in a calibrated setting and what size (if that's what you want). I'm sure they'd be happy to tell you.

 

[lilmosun]

If looking for an off the shelf or non custom setting, which are cheaper than made to order, look for stones that are calibrated in size (4 x 6 oval or 5 x 7 pear or 6 x 8 emerald) and stones that are not too deep since coloured stones are usually cut differently. Avoid stones that are too flat topped and too bottom heavy.

Agreed...a good bench can usually make a stones work that are within 2mm of the optmal size (depending on the setting).

If you aren't looking for a particular style of setting and are willing to be patient, the least expensive way is often to look for preloved settings. Of course, they are easier to find for smaller (5-6.5 mm) stones and if you have a good bench, there is more flexibility in getting stones/settings to fit. It was the only way I could afford to build my collection (so many stones out there I wanted). A good part of my collection is setting in preloved settings.

Even though I am now more comfortable in spending more on stones/settings, nothing excites me more than finding an inexpensive preloved setting that I can use.

 

[lilmosun]

Agreed...a good bench can usually make a stones work that are within 2mm of the optimal size (depending on the setting).

Correction - I meant .2 mm give or take

 

[elliefire99]

I have a lot of gems just sitting in a box waiting for their forever homes. Settings are expensive and I very rarely buy calibrated stones (so I always end up going custom). I tend to work with one jeweler (David Klass) so I usually have a rough idea on pricing (though, sometimes, even I get a quote that makes me go ).

This is an interesting thread. I look forward to seeing what others have to say.

@elle_71125 Would you mind sharing some of the "rough ideas" of pricing with David Klass? I am in LA and have been considering reaching out to him. I know it's better for him to speak for himself on the quote front, but I don't want to waste his time if it's completely out of my budget range...

Thank you

 

[Bron357]

If you buy standard sized calibrated gems ie 8mm round or 7 x 5 you can buy sterling silver semi mounts off eBay or JammingGems or Fire Mountain for between $10 and $40. These rings have pre notched claws and using gem setting pliers you bend the prong tips over your gems.
There are also 10kt and 14kt gold settings available but these are quite a bit more expensive.
Choices include rings, earrings and pendant mounts.
You are restricted of course by the limited available styles to suit your gem size but it’s a very cost effective method to set gems and enjoy them until you save up for a better setting.
There are also a number of PS recommended vendors for better quality semi mounts on eBay including diamondmounts from China. These mounts are do require a jeweller to set the gems (the prongs aren’t pre notched) and you have to allow for that cost ($50-$100 or so).

 

[dk168]

I go down the custom route all the time as I have specific design elements.

I would bezel-set everything if I could, with plain wide shank at least 4mm at the top, and for the stones to be set as low as possible.

I use an eBay vendor, diamondmounts, based in China since 2014/5, started with a setting that was the new forever home of my EC diamond. It was well-made and I am very happy with it.

With hindsight, the setting could have been made more substantial in that I noticed the band is now showing a slight oval shape at the bottom (see pic below). However it was what I could afford at the time, and I wear this ring a lot and am heavy on my hands.

With the second ring, it was for a cheapo Aqua that I bought from JD for under 40 USD, and I did not wish to spend too much on the setting. The setting was fine for the price I paid, however, it does feel kind of flimsy, and I wish I knew 0.9mm melees do not offer much sparkles unless there were lots of them.

I mentioned the issues to my contact, and from then onwards, the rings etc. had been made more substantially. The third and subsequent rings were all fine.

Yes the settings could have been made more substantial in that the shanks towards the top of the rings could be made solid rather than hollow, however that would bump up the price due to increase in weight of precious metal.

I have continued to use the same vendor for rings and other projects such as a bracelet in platinum using existing diamonds that I had, and paved diamond interchangeable earring drops.

I met the young gentleman who is my main contact last time I went to Hong Kong to visit my folks in 2015, and the vendor already has a number of CSs that I plan to set in hand. They were either sent to them in the post, or handed to my contact in person.

There are risks involved for certain, however, on balance, the quality of the products and services are what I am prepared to accept and pay.

I fully support the sentiment that you get what you paid for, however I cannot justify spending lots of money on settings for stones that cost way less. Something has to give as I too have expensive taste earning beer money salary!

Here are pics of my EC ring showing the well-worn oval shaped shank/band, and the underside of the shank showing it is hollow and not solid:


Here are a couple of pics comparing the EC ring in platinum and the second ring with the cheapo Aqua, showing the band of the Aqua ring at the bottom (Aqua on the left) is thinner:


My usual budget for a ring setting is around 400 to 500 USD in 14K White Gold.

The EC ring cost more as it is platinum, and another cost over 1.2K USD as it is heavy in gold with more melees.

I was able to split the cost and pay by up to 3 consecutive mouthly instalments for the more substantial pieces nowadays, however, that is a privilege and not the norm, as I would like to believe they know me well enough to trust me by now.

DK

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Yeah using eBay vendors from China is usually my go to for benchmarking what the lower end of setting costs will be. I’ve also worked with the same local jeweler for almost 10 years and have gotten a sense of her prices. She is often higher in cost due to labor and custom work but is more reasonable than some of the PS vendors. I go to her for custom work and stones I feel nervous about sending overseas for setting with Hearts of Water who is probably my favorite Custom setting maker ever.

 

[elliefire99]

Yeah using eBay vendors from China is usually my go to for benchmarking what the lower end of setting costs will be. I’ve also worked with the same local jeweler for almost 10 years and have gotten a sense of her prices. She is often higher in cost due to labor and custom work but is more reasonable than some of the PS vendors. I go to her for custom work and stones I feel nervous about sending overseas for setting with Hearts of Water who is probably my favorite Custom setting maker ever.

I have been eyeing Heart of Water's custom work for awhile now... So beautiful! She mentions on her commissions page that she can make open settings for gems with accurate measurements. Have you ever done this with her? Seems like a good way to get the wonderful craftsmenship without the shipping risk.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

I have and it worked out fine!
Unfortunately for me I tend to prefer bezel settings which are harder to do this way. Not to mention I trust her bench more to do the actual bezelling. Whereas prongs I would trust with most established jewelers.