Hunting for a Diamond. Some general questions…

[RingMeUp]

Hello everyone,

New to the forum and first time diamond-shopper. I’m really grateful for PriceScope and all the wonderful educational resources provided here (I’ve read through about every guide at this point I think).

For some background, I’m planning to propose sometime this winter, and just began my hunt for a diamond ring. I sat down with my girlfriend and went through rings on sites like Zales and Kay just to get a feel for what she likes, but she said she wants me to pick the actual ring myself and not tell her when I have it, so I’m on my own in that regard. That said, she did give me some useful hints, and I’ve narrowed my criteria down to the following:

Budget: $7500 (including setting)
Stone: Diamond (natural or lab)
Cut: Round
Color: F-H
Clarity: VVS2-VS2 (should I consider SI?)
Carat: 0.8-0.98
Style: Halo
Metal: Platinum
Addl Ring Info: Nothing too ornate with excessive accent diamonds or carvings running around the sides and bottom of the shank

So that’s what I’m working with right now. And that obviously leaves a lot of options open, giving me some analysis paralysis. If anyone has suggestions for a diamond that would fit my budget, fire away (I’ve used the search tool to browse around myself, but if anyone experienced could give me an idea of what would be a good buy for my budget, I’d appreciate that too). On top of that I have a handful of questions…

1. If I intend to buy online, should I still be going to local retailers to look at diamonds? Is it possible I could buy something there cheaper than I could get it online? Do local retailers have the same level of detailed paperwork that online sites like WhiteFlash have (e.g. H&A, AGS cert, etc.)
2. Should I buy just the loose diamond online and have it set at a local retailer? How could I verify they didn’t swap the diamond? Is this often a cheaper route or is getting a fully set ring from an online retailer generally cheaper?
3. How would #2 impact insurance? Do online retailers offer to insure their products? If I had the diamond set locally would I have to potentially have the diamond and setting insured separately?
4. Am I wrong to feel most comfortable buying a diamond with an AGS cert? I have a relative certified with GIA (a long time ago, no longer practices) and she swears by their reports. Are there reasons to look for one lab over another?
5. Despite the reports/certs being pretty detailed I can’t help but feel anxious spending so much on something so small over the internet. How does one build confidence before pulling the trigger? I know myself to be a hasty buyer sometimes but feel I need to really be slow and deliberate here…I just don’t know how slow and deliberate.

Thanks, folks!

 

[mwilliamanderson]

Hi @RingMeUp

Welcome, I’ll start by answering some of your questions. All graded diamonds are inscribed with a unique number on the girdle of the diamond. The same number appears on the grading certificate. You don’t need to worry about someone swapping your diamond for this reason.

If you buy a diamond online from a recommended vendor you will have a period of time to examine and return the diamond. Sellers insurance covers the diamond during shipping to you. If you are having someone else set the diamond you can purchase insurance once you receive the stone which will cover the diamond during the setting process. Or you can have the diamond sent directly to the person who is setting it and insure the ring when you receive it.

AGS and GIA are both great labs, however, if you’ve read the educational articles here you know that cut is king. AGS lab reports focus more on cut quality. Getting a well cut diamond is the least expensive way to improve the quality of the diamond you’re buying without going up the 4 C’s says John Pollard in this thread…https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/shallow-crown-angle-and-height.208638/

It is a big purchase and it pays to do the research up front so you can feel great about what you end up buying.

Does your SO want a round diamond with a round halo or a round diamond with a cushion shaped halo? Buying the diamond and setting from the same place can be less stressful unless you are going the custom route.

 

[RingMeUp]

Thanks for your reply, @mwilliamanderson.

So I take it that number would be visible under something like 10x magnification? I wouldn’t have to go hunting for it and it wouldn’t be something easily replicable? That’s good to know.

I figured there’s a return period and I’ll have to carefully look into return policies. I know some places give you 60 days, in which case I probably need to wait so that the return window doesn’t expire before I propose.

I definitely can buy into the idea that cut is king. There are more metrics to examine, it seems, than with clarity or color, lending itself to less subjectivity, which I am a fan of.

I’m thinking I’ll end up buying both the diamond and setting from the same place, as you mentioned, since it’ll be less stressful. I just don’t want to overlook local retailers if there is an advantage to be had using them.

My SO is looking to get a round halo.

 

[mwilliamanderson]

Thanks for your reply, @mwilliamanderson.

So I take it that number would be visible under something like 10x magnification? I wouldn’t have to go hunting for it and it wouldn’t be something easily replicable? That’s good to know.

I figured there’s a return period and I’ll have to carefully look into return policies. I know some places give you 60 days, in which case I probably need to wait so that the return window doesn’t expire before I propose.

I definitely can buy into the idea that cut is king. There are more metrics to examine, it seems, than with clarity or color, lending itself to less subjectivity, which I am a fan of.

I’m thinking I’ll end up buying both the diamond and setting from the same place, as you mentioned, since it’ll be less stressful. I just don’t want to overlook local retailers if there is an advantage to be had using them.

My SO is looking to get a round halo.

Only you can decide if there's an advantage to working with a local jeweler. I consider Wink and WolfCBI to be my jeweler. Others here have developed a relationship with Whiteflash or Brian Gavin Diamonds. These are the big players in the diamond world IMHO. They put all of their knowledge and experience out in the open so that you can be an educated shopper. I'm afraid that in the local B and M sales people may not have the same information at their disposal or worse they might provide incorrect information in order to sell the average stock they have in inventory. Obviously, there are exceptions. I'm just stating what I have seen and experienced and heard about.

I did some searching this morning and it looks like your diamond budget is going to be impacted by the setting you choose, so I would start with getting clear about that. I am posting some examples of settings and stones just to give you an idea of some ballpark prices. In my examples, if you chose the more expensive setting you would go over budget with the diamonds I am highlighting. These are just examples of course. I started with the super ideal vendors because that's my preference due to the availability of advanced images and the level of service and reputation these company's provide. If you prefer we can give you suggestions from vendors who make it a little more difficult to get to know the diamonds, such as James Allen or others.

Halo Settings:
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/Engagement-Rings/pave-and-side-stones/milgrain-halo-engagement-ring-5441

Tacori 49RD65 Sculpted Crescent Solitaire Engagement Ring | 3819

Solitaire Engagement Rings | A slim bloom of diamonds encircles a round center diamond for an elegant and modern solitaire, with a dainty modern crescent silhouette profile. The diamond's culet is just visible, kissing a sweetheart carriage for an elegantly modern and sophisticated look. | 3819

www.whiteflash.com

Diamonds:
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/0.808-g-vvs2-signature-round-bkags-104113602004

WolfCBI has nothing in the .8 range in your preferred color so I chose one below and one above size.

https://wolfcbi.com/diamonds/186

Wolf | CBI ™

wolfcbi.com

Diamond | 0.828 ct F SI1 A CUT ABOVE® Hearts and Arrows Super Ideal Round Cut Loose Diamond AGS Certified | 3876795

This Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE® super ideal cut hearts and arrows 0.828 carat F color SI1 clarity loose diamond is graded by the American Gem Society (AGS) Laboratories. | 3876795

www.whiteflash.com

 

[mwilliamanderson]

You can make note of the prices and more importantly the specs on the above diamonds and settings and then take a trip to a store near you and asked to see stones with similar specs. You seem to know enough about what you're looking for that you will be able to detect misinformation.

Pay attention to what lab has graded the diamonds as well. GIA and AGS are preferred. Seeing more diamonds is always useful and it will give you an idea of what you can find locally. Just remember that all diamonds can look good in jewelry store lighting. It's when they get away from the bright lights that you can observe differences in cut more keenly.

 

[mwilliamanderson]

You might enjoy reading this buyers halo journey.

Victor Canera 1.29 CAC G VVS2 Emilya

Victor Canera Emilya Ring 1.29 Antique Cushion G VVS2 AGS 0 Cut AGS 0 Light performance AGS 0 Polish Emilya Video Hopefully this works and you can see the images. First time. I recently worked with Victor Canera to make a ring for my wife on our 20th anniversary and wanted to create this...

www.pricescope.com

 

[DejaWiz]

Welcome to PriceScope, RingMeUp!

I'm right in-line with the suggestions that mwilliamanderson provided: Whiteflash, WolfCBI, Brian Gavin, and Victor Canera are all super ideal cut diamond sellers with outstanding reputations for product quality, customer service, generous lifetime upgrade policies, and 100% money back guarantees.

Here are some great selections from Whiteflash, Bryan (Texas Leaguer) will take great care of you:

Diamond | 0.822 ct F VS1 A CUT ABOVE® Hearts and Arrows Super Ideal Round Cut Loose Diamond AGS Certified | 4402599

This Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE® super ideal cut hearts and arrows 0.822 carat F color VS1 clarity loose diamond is graded by the American Gem Society (AGS) Laboratories. | 4402599

www.whiteflash.com

Diamond | 0.812 ct F VS2 A CUT ABOVE® Hearts and Arrows Super Ideal Round Cut Loose Diamond AGS Certified | 4405759

This Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE® super ideal cut hearts and arrows 0.812 carat F color VS2 clarity loose diamond is graded by the American Gem Society (AGS) Laboratories. | 4405759

www.whiteflash.com

Diamond | 0.806 ct F VS1 A CUT ABOVE® Hearts and Arrows Super Ideal Round Cut Loose Diamond AGS Certified | 4383166

This Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE® super ideal cut hearts and arrows 0.806 carat F color VS1 clarity loose diamond is graded by the American Gem Society (AGS) Laboratories. | 4383166

www.whiteflash.com

Diamond | 0.800 ct F VS2 A CUT ABOVE® Hearts and Arrows Super Ideal Round Cut Loose Diamond AGS Certified | 4402598

This Whiteflash A CUT ABOVE® super ideal cut hearts and arrows 0.800 carat F color VS2 clarity loose diamond is graded by the American Gem Society (AGS) Laboratories. | 4402598

www.whiteflash.com

Here are a couple of platinum halo settings that they offer:

Ritani 1RZ1323 Halo Diamond Engagement Ring - Whi... | 3880

Elevate your style with the Ritani 1RZ1323 Halo Diamond Engagement Ring. Shop now at Whiteflash and let your love story unfold. | 3880

www.whiteflash.com

Ritani 1RZ1504 Diamond Halo Engagement Ring | 6290

Radiate timeless beauty with the Ritani 1RZ1504 Diamond Halo Engagement Ring. Discover it at Whiteflash and embark on a lifetime of love and brilliance. | 6290

www.whiteflash.com

Jon (Rhino ) at Distinctive Gem has a fair selection of vetted diamonds in stock (he also has a free concierge service to happily assist you with vetting diamonds from some of his own competitors), plus a huge selection of settings from mild to wild to all out custom.

diamond-search

www.distinctivegem.com

Diamond Concierge - Find Me A Diamond Form

Getting confused on what to search for? Have us find it for you! Enter the criteria below and we will respond back with options within 24 hours. Loading…

www.distinctivegem.com

Designs by Jonathan Weingarten

This collection will consist of personal designs I've created and worked on over the course of my time working with CAD design. These settings can generally be made to accommodate any shape diamond or finger size and can customize in almost any way. Of vital importance ... the prices reflected...

www.distinctivegem.com

David (Rockdiamond ) at Diamonds By Lauren also has a great selection (either in-house or call-in whatever you are looking for).

Loose Mined Diamonds

Natural fancy colored diamonds including yellow diamonds, blue diamonds, pink diamonds, orange diamonds, brown diamonds.

www.diamondsbylauren.com

Semi Mounts and Settings | Classic and Antique Style

semi mounts, halo settings, settings, micro settings, antique style, lucida style

www.diamondsbylauren.com

Victor Canera has a specific lineup named Canera Hearts & Arrows for his premium cut diamonds:
https://victorcanera.com/diamonds?shape=hearts-arrows-round

 

[RingMeUp]

Thank you all for your suggestions. When I get home today and can pull all of them up side by side I’ll be sure to come back with more questions.

As @mwilliamanderson mentioned I know that the platinum ring is going to cut into my diamond budget. The reason I was leaning that way was because my little sister was recently married and my mom was telling me that the white gold engagement ring she has got dirty somewhat easily (I think it was 14k?), and therefore seemed to have higher maintenance requirements for the rhodium plating. Because of that anecdotal experience I thought platinum might be easier to maintain, and I know it to be slightly more durable based on some reading. My question is, am I correct in my assessment? How frequent does white gold need to be cleaned and replated vs cleaning platinum (assuming my SO will be wearing the ring every day).

 

[mwilliamanderson]

I can’t imagine white gold gets dirtier than platinum. However, the less white alloy showing itself through the worn away rhodium will make it appear dirty. How often it requires replating can depend on a person's body chemistry, I have read, and of course the treatment a ring receives. Some people use unplated white gold for their setting to avoid having to replate. It has a warmer look that some prefer and works better on some skin tones. Some choose platinum, and some replate annually or once every couple of years. It’s a good time to have the setting pave and prongs checked as well.

 

[Diamond_Enthusiast]

Here are two more G color diamond options from Brian Gavin for you to consider in case you want to maximize size and push the boundaries a bit to SI1 clarity:

0.972 G SI1 Signature Round

Buy diamonds online - AGS Graded 0.972 carat G SI1 super ideal cut Brian Gavin Hearts & Arrows Round Cut diamond. Lifetime Upgrade Policy!

www.briangavindiamonds.com

Or have a higher clarity VS1 with medium blue fluorescence (BGD checks each diamond to ensure the fluorescence doesn't negativity impact performance before including their 'Blue' range):

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/0.903-g-vs1-brian-gavin-blue-blags-104113110015

If you are a plain band with a halo around the center diamond, this version in 18K white gold with the G SI diamond would be at your budget mark:

Victoria

Half bezel engagement ring with french set halo and plain band. Features 0.18 ctw diamond melee. Ring can be made for any shape and/or size center stone. Any finish (bright, brushed, sandblast, "german finish", etc.) can be applied to any ring. Price is for setting only for diamonds up to 2...

www.briangavindiamonds.com

Pay by wire transfer for the lower price and use promo code "SET2515" to get $100 off. Alternatively, there is a link at the bottom left of the web page to "SAVE100" by signing up to their email and making first purchase. Although it is only 100 but why not get the saving if you can.

On the topic of certification you mentioned, AGS is obviously reputable and you an get more info on light return compared to GIA which of course is also reputable and widely trusted. If you want to compare or are interested in multiple certs, Wolf CBI that has already been suggested above uses triple certs for their diamonds - AGS, GIA and GCAL!

 

[Rockdiamond]

Thanks for the mention @DejaWiz ...I'll give my answers to the questions below in red

1. If I intend to buy online, should I still be going to local retailers to look at diamonds? Is it possible I could buy something there cheaper than I could get it online? Do local retailers have the same level of detailed paperwork that online sites like WhiteFlash have (e.g. H&A, AGS cert, etc.)

Very few Brick and Mortar retail stores offer the level of information most vendors online need to... of course there are exceptions. It would be great to see stones in person. I'd advise letting the readers know your general location, and maybe people can suggest B&M sellers close to you that will offer all the details. I would expect to pay a local retailer ( of any product) more than internet pricing. I willingly do this for things I like to buy ( guitars)

2. Should I buy just the loose diamond online and have it set at a local retailer? How could I verify they didn’t swap the diamond? Is this often a cheaper route or is getting a fully set ring from an online retailer generally cheaper?

My opinion on this one is colored heavily by my experience. It's far better to have one dealer to answer for the finished product. Again- this might not be the "cheapest" way....but cheap can be very expensive in the long run

3. How would #2 impact insurance? Do online retailers offer to insure their products? If I had the diamond set locally would I have to potentially have the diamond and setting insured separately?

See my answer above- if one dealer is responsible for the entire ring, they will be responsible for the entire ring. If you piecemeal it, there's a split in responsibility ( including insurance) that can adversely affect you, the buyer.

4. Am I wrong to feel most comfortable buying a diamond with an AGS cert? I have a relative certified with GIA (a long time ago, no longer practices) and she swears by their reports. Are there reasons to look for one lab over another?

A lot is written about this here....both GIA and AGSL have pluses and minuses...both are perfectly acceptable.

5. Despite the reports/certs being pretty detailed I can’t help but feel anxious spending so much on something so small over the internet. How does one build confidence before pulling the trigger? I know myself to be a hasty buyer sometimes but feel I need to really be slow and deliberate here…I just don’t know how slow and deliberate.

In this, Google is your friend.
I would never tell someone "trust me"- instead I advise people to do what I do ...research the seller. It's impossible to hide bad reviews ( although fake positives are a potential misleading factor)

One additional note....not all stones that with GIA reports are laser engraved. Many stones with lab reports are not necessarily laser engraved.

 

[RingMeUp]

Sorry for the late reply folks. I did some additional hunting on my own. I was able to narrow it down to a few settings that I think my SO would like:

Victoria

Half bezel engagement ring with french set halo and plain band. Features 0.18 ctw diamond melee. Ring can be made for any shape and/or size center stone. Any finish (bright, brushed, sandblast, "german finish", etc.) can be applied to any ring. Price is for setting only for diamonds up to 2...

www.briangavindiamonds.com

Danhov LE104 Per Lei Single Shank Halo Solitaire ... | 4724

Capture hearts with the Danhov LE104 Per Lei Single Shank Halo Solitaire Engagement Ring from Whiteflash. Shop now and embark on a lifetime of love and devotion. | 4724

www.whiteflash.com

Simon G. TR523 Passion Diamond Engagement Ring | 3420

Make a statement with the Simon G. TR523 Passion Diamond Engagement Ring. Shop with Whiteflash and let your love story unfold. | 3420

www.whiteflash.com

I get the impression that the reason a full platinum band is more expensive than the bands with accent diamonds on the shank is because those little diamonds are of lesser value and displace the cost of the more expensive platinum. Nevertheless, I think she wants a more plain band, so I'm leaning toward one of the first two.

Per @Rockdiamond 's comment, I think it'd be a burden lifted for me to get both the setting and the diamond through the same company. So that would unfortunately preclude diamond sellers like WolfCBI. I also don't know if she'd like the old charm of a circular brilliant or old european cut, which seems to be most of DiamondsByLauren's stock (in the range that I'm looking at), and while I saw some round brilliants, they were all outside of one of my criteria ranges. DistinctiveGem also didn't have anything that quite tickled my fancy. I cross-checked some of the diamonds that you kind folks had suggested with those on BlueNile and JamesAllen and didn't see much of a price difference (nor did I find any that were a more compelling buy), so I'm inclined to stick with WhiteFlash or BrianGavin.

I think my last question for the time being (now that I have a general feel for how much the diamond should cost) is how quickly do diamonds sell? I still need to sneak a ring from my SO to gauge her ring size, so I won't be able to buy immediately. And it'll probably be another few weeks to a month before I can do that due to travel. If these diamonds are going to sell in that time, I suppose there's no sense in getting attached to one. I've seen 24hr reservation policies, but I have a feeling some of these diamonds will be gone before I can get to them. Will a diamond seller hold a diamond (or an entire ring order) pending the ring size?

Thanks again, everyone!

 

[Diamond_Enthusiast]

Sorry for the late reply folks. I did some additional hunting on my own. I was able to narrow it down to a few settings that I think my SO would like:

Victoria

Half bezel engagement ring with french set halo and plain band. Features 0.18 ctw diamond melee. Ring can be made for any shape and/or size center stone. Any finish (bright, brushed, sandblast, "german finish", etc.) can be applied to any ring. Price is for setting only for diamonds up to 2...

www.briangavindiamonds.com

Danhov LE104 Per Lei Single Shank Halo Solitaire ... | 4724

Capture hearts with the Danhov LE104 Per Lei Single Shank Halo Solitaire Engagement Ring from Whiteflash. Shop now and embark on a lifetime of love and devotion. | 4724

www.whiteflash.com

Simon G. TR523 Passion Diamond Engagement Ring | 3420

Make a statement with the Simon G. TR523 Passion Diamond Engagement Ring. Shop with Whiteflash and let your love story unfold. | 3420

www.whiteflash.com

I get the impression that the reason a full platinum band is more expensive than the bands with accent diamonds on the shank is because those little diamonds are of lesser value and displace the cost of the more expensive platinum. Nevertheless, I think she wants a more plain band, so I'm leaning toward one of the first two.

Per @Rockdiamond 's comment, I think it'd be a burden lifted for me to get both the setting and the diamond through the same company. So that would unfortunately preclude diamond sellers like WolfCBI. I also don't know if she'd like the old charm of a circular brilliant or old european cut, which seems to be most of DiamondsByLauren's stock (in the range that I'm looking at), and while I saw some round brilliants, they were all outside of one of my criteria ranges. DistinctiveGem also didn't have anything that quite tickled my fancy. I cross-checked some of the diamonds that you kind folks had suggested with those on BlueNile and JamesAllen and didn't see much of a price difference (nor did I find any that were a more compelling buy), so I'm inclined to stick with WhiteFlash or BrianGavin.

I think my last question for the time being (now that I have a general feel for how much the diamond should cost) is how quickly do diamonds sell? I still need to sneak a ring from my SO to gauge her ring size, so I won't be able to buy immediately. And it'll probably be another few weeks to a month before I can do that due to travel. If these diamonds are going to sell in that time, I suppose there's no sense in getting attached to one. I've seen 24hr reservation policies, but I have a feeling some of these diamonds will be gone before I can get to them. Will a diamond seller hold a diamond (or an entire ring order) pending the ring size?

Thanks again, everyone!

If you are ready to decide on the diamond, perhaps put it on hold and explain your situation to the vendor and see what they can do. If you are able to and willing, perhaps you can even offer to pay for the diamond first (or even with the setting too) or if vendor allows, a deposit to lock it in. I'd imagine they would be happy to do that and hold-off on making the ring until you have the size ready.

In terms of how quickly they sell, I've had diamond that I've saved to my wish list that I've been thinking about and the better stone that are well priced ones do seem to sell pretty fast. So if there is one that you particularly like, I would contact the vendor and see what they can do.

 

[Rockdiamond]

is how quickly do diamonds sell

This is a great question. The answer isn’t anything at all definitive. Sometimes they sell quickly and sometimes it takes a long tine. Trying to look at the sites to see when stones are sold may lead to false conclusions due to the fact that a lot of sites list diamonds they do not possess.. My advice is not to shop for specific stones till you’re ready to pull the trigger. If you do find “the one” but you’re not ready- it could spoil your perception later on if that “one” is gone.

 

[Diamond_Enthusiast]

This is a great question. The answer isn’t anything at all definitive. Sometimes they sell quickly and sometimes it takes a long tine. Trying to look at the sites to see when stones are sold may lead to false conclusions due to the fact that a lot of sites list diamonds they do not possess.. My advice is not to shop for specific stones till you’re ready to pull the trigger. If you do find “the one” but you’re not ready- it could spoil your perception later on if that “one” is gone.

This a really good point actually since both Blue Niles and James Allen does drop ship diamonds.

If the OP is going to buy from Brian Gavin's Signature lines or Whiteflash's ACAs though, I think those are held by the vendors?

 

[rockysalamander]

I get the impression that the reason a full platinum band is more expensive than the bands with accent diamonds on the shank is because those little diamonds are of lesser value and displace the cost of the more expensive platinum. Nevertheless, I think she wants a more plain band, so I'm leaning toward one of the first two.

A solid platinum band weighs more than a pave band, but is far less workmanship. A pave band ends up being less weight of metal, but far more workmanship. The cost of the general melee add to the pave band. Better melee will cost a bit more.

I'm not clear where you are on a diamond choice, but most vendors we talk about here have relationships with a number of setting makers. So, even if they can't get the specific one you posted, they probably either make one or can obtain a similar one. So, like others may have said...find the diamond first. Once you find the diamond, then you can see if they have or can source the setting or you want to find another avenue for a setting.

For stones at WF or BGD, they will often hold as stone while you decide.

 

[mwilliamanderson]

Just so you don’t rule out an incredible CBI, Wolf Diamonds is the bench for WolfCBI and they will have access to all the same stock settings from various designers such as the Scholdt you posted and also provide custom options. You can see some of their work here. I know there are some examples of Halo rings among the posts.

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