Hybrid Step Cuts

[tr401]

Hello,

I am recently engaged and my fiancé and I are looking together for the right ring. I am new to the world of diamonds and after trying on a variety of stones, I was most drawn the an emerald cut but was missing some sparkle.

After going down the rabbit hole of hybrid step cuts, I was able to see a few Ashokas in person and really loved them. Because these are a less common shape, I don’t feel educated enough on how to select the right stone. I thought it was beautiful but I only saw it under jewelers lights. Is it a obvious what an ASET should like like for this?

What has been your experience with branded cuts? Are these very prevalent on the second hand or wholesale market? Any advice would be appreciated!

(A few still images below taken from videos)

 

[kb1gra]

These hybrid step cuts are a little tricky under an ASET. They’re not ever going to be “ideal” in that sense.

that said, I think they’re becoming more common in unbranded form. I’ve seen a bunch of them in mmd format.

 

[mayaINaU]

I just saw this and had to share because, to me, it resembles an Ashoka. It’s a custom-cut, so Jonathan might be able to do it in earth-mined, though this example is a lab diamond. https://www.distinctivegem.com/products/your-custom-cut-weingarten-mixed-cut-lab-grown-diamond

 

[Rockdiamond]

You may find this sort of cut on the second hand market….they are less common…..but also less in demand so you might find a bargain that way. Also check “Crisscut”

 

[diamondhoarder]

Hello,

I am recently engaged and my fiancé and I are looking together for the right ring. I am new to the world of diamonds and after trying on a variety of stones, I was most drawn the an emerald cut but was missing some sparkle.

After going down the rabbit hole of hybrid step cuts, I was able to see a few Ashokas in person and really loved them. Because these are a less common shape, I don’t feel educated enough on how to select the right stone. I thought it was beautiful but I only saw it under jewelers lights. Is it a obvious what an ASET should like like for this?

What has been your experience with branded cuts? Are these very prevalent on the second hand or wholesale market? Any advice would be appreciated!

(A few still images below taken from videos)

I am a massive fan of hybrid step cuts and have owned several and seen many more in person during my search. Hopefully I can share some useful info based on my own experiences.

Firstly, in terms of light performance, I would say that hybrid step cuts can have amazing light performance, but, very much like other fancy shapes, there are some amazing ones and some less impressive, and inspection in person is very important.

With nice examples of these diamonds, you can expect a good amount of blue in the ASET (contrast) as well as red, although it should be distributed across the stone rather than all concentrated in one area. This makes for a bright stone with a lot of flash and distinctive facet pattern. Anything with too much red at the expense of blue may be either bright white or very dark depending on the viewing angle and you will not be able to enjoy the distinctive facet pattern.

Here is a link to my Princecut thread, which includes an ASET image and many photos and videos.

#JOTW - Finally, my PrinceCut (scissor cut) in its platinum art deco style french cut ruby and diamond halo ring

I have always been drawn to diamonds with more unusual facet pattern arrangements, and I especially love the "scissor cut" look that some of the branded diamonds that emerged in the last 20 years show. So I have been on the lookout for my perfect scissor cut syle diamond for a good few years...

www.pricescope.com

The Princecut has a similar look to an emerald Crisscut, and I have seen nice examples of both and not so nice ones. Princecuts are manufactured in Israel by Avi Paz and usually sold in finished jewellery although they can be purchased from dealers elsewhere in the world as loose diamonds.

Next is a link to my Tycoon cut thread, again including an ASET image and photos/ videos. This particular diamond is the best performing fancy cut diamond I have seen, and I would consider it to be ideal cut.

#JOTW - My antique jewellery shop find - tycoon and french cut diamond ring

Just when I thought my collection was complete, my interest was piqued by a gorgeous ring I saw by chance in an antique jewellery shop. I had long ago promised myself that having discovered the joys of buying well-priced loose diamonds online I would never pay a "retail" price for a ring in a...

www.pricescope.com

Tycoons are available on the secondary market but can also be purchased new from specific vendors in Australia. I have seen several tycoons in person and my general impression is that they tend to be very nicely cut but of course I'm sure there are exceptions.

There is a natural diamond equivalent to the distinctivegem model which was linked by a previous poster - its called the Victorian Cut. I used to own one of these and it was a nice performer.




However, they are a bit of a mixed bag, here is the ASET to another one I viewed loose which was not very lively:



There is another type of hybrid step cut which is an unbranded round cornered elongated cushion. These can be bought as loose diamonds quite easily from vendors like James Allen. They have a similar look to the Ashoka. Again performance is variable between diamonds. Here are some ASETs of loose diamonds I was considering before I went with the PrinceCut I posted above:



The final ASET is for a diamond I saw in person. It was very bright but had a way of going very dark right across the diamond when the stone was tilted and that put me off it.

As far as Ashoka's are concerned I have seen some amazing ones and some with areas of noticeable leakage in the centre. How did you feel about the the one you viewed? In your second photo I think I see some leakage (where you can see the skin of the finger showing through the pavilion of the diamond).

Overall I would say that its a little more challenging finding the right hybrid step cut than a straightforward emerald cut, mainly because they are not so readily available. But a good one is incredibly rewarding and I much prefer mine over standard emerald cuts because of the additional scintillation and the intriguing facet pattern.

When it comes to searching for them online you will need to ignore the usual recommendations about table size, depth etc which apply to standard emerald cuts. Eg my tycoon has a 78% table according to GIA which would not be recommended at all for an emerald cut or a radiant cut, and yet it has amazing fire and white light return.

Loose diamond vendors may have these hybrid steps cuts listed as cushions, emerald cuts or occasionally as radiants. If looking on the secondary market many are listed just as emerald cuts so it does take a bit more effort doing the searching.
Anything that is correctly identified as a branded cut (Ashoka, Crisscut etc) is likely to carry a premium although the premium for Princecuts seems to be a little lower.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Lots of people are fans of Octavias.

 

[tr401]

I am a massive fan of hybrid step cuts and have owned several and seen many more in person during my search. Hopefully I can share some useful info based on my own experiences.

@diamondhoarder - this was such a helpful post! I have read a few of your posts on other threads, but it is fabulous to have all of that narrated in one post.

I hadn't considered a Tycoon until I saw yours posted - it is beautiful and such a fun story on your find. Many of the hybrid step cuts I have seen are a little wide for my taste as I find I like a ratio north of 1.5. I think this is why I was attracted to an Ashoka as I am told the Ashoka ratio is typically 1.58-1.63.

I did love the Ashoka I saw in person, but I think we are of similar minds in that I want a fabulous, unique diamond but I can't come to terms with the retail markups - I want a good deal! To find a unique, quality stone on the secondhand market seems like finding a needle in the haystack.

Anyway, the hunt continues for the perfect center stone! You have given me the confidence that maybe I can locate one independently. If you stumble across any beauties around the 2 ct mark, I would be so grateful to see. In the meantime, I will be searching the websites and sifting through photos. I will post any I find!

 

[diamondhoarder]

@diamondhoarder - this was such a helpful post! I have read a few of your posts on other threads, but it is fabulous to have all of that narrated in one post.

I hadn't considered a Tycoon until I saw yours posted - it is beautiful and such a fun story on your find. Many of the hybrid step cuts I have seen are a little wide for my taste as I find I like a ratio north of 1.5. I think this is why I was attracted to an Ashoka as I am told the Ashoka ratio is typically 1.58-1.63.

I did love the Ashoka I saw in person, but I think we are of similar minds in that I want a fabulous, unique diamond but I can't come to terms with the retail markups - I want a good deal! To find a unique, quality stone on the secondhand market seems like finding a needle in the haystack.

Anyway, the hunt continues for the perfect center stone! If you stumble across any beauties around the 2 ct mark, I would be so grateful to see. In the meantime, I will be searching the websites and sifting through photos. I will post any I find!

I'm so pleased my post was helpful. I could blather on for hours about these type of diamonds I will keep an eye out for any that I think might suit. In the meantime it could be worth contacting Alex Parks via his instagram to see if he expects to get any more of these in soon, he has certainly had them in the past so I expect he has a relationship with the cutter.

 

[diamondhoarder]

@diamondhoarder - this was such a helpful post! I have read a few of your posts on other threads, but it is fabulous to have all of that narrated in one post.

I hadn't considered a Tycoon until I saw yours posted - it is beautiful and such a fun story on your find. Many of the hybrid step cuts I have seen are a little wide for my taste as I find I like a ratio north of 1.5. I think this is why I was attracted to an Ashoka as I am told the Ashoka ratio is typically 1.58-1.63.

I did love the Ashoka I saw in person, but I think we are of similar minds in that I want a fabulous, unique diamond but I can't come to terms with the retail markups - I want a good deal! To find a unique, quality stone on the secondhand market seems like finding a needle in the haystack.

Anyway, the hunt continues for the perfect center stone! You have given me the confidence that maybe I can locate one independently. If you stumble across any beauties around the 2 ct mark, I would be so grateful to see. In the meantime, I will be searching the websites and sifting through photos. I will post any I find!

Have you seen these:

GIA Certified D Color 2.01 Carat L'amour Crisscut Diamond Platinum Ring For Sale at 1stDibs | crisscut diamond cost, crisscut diamond reviews, crisscut diamond prices

For Sale on 1stDibs - Spectacular diamond ring, prong set in center with GIA certified 2.01 L'amour Crisscut diamond, D color, SI1 clarity in platinum mounting with 22 full

www.1stdibs.com

Christopher Designs Crisscut Three-Stone Diamond Engagement Ring 3.25 Carat For Sale at 1stDibs | chris cut diamond, christopher designs engagement rings, chris cut ring

For Sale on 1stDibs - Christopher Designs Style: Three-Stone Diamond Engagement Ring Serial Number: GIA 15132949 Metal: 18k White Gold Size: 6.5 - sizable Total Carat Weight:

www.1stdibs.com

1.60ct "Prince Cut" Step Cut Diamond Solitaire, GIA G SI1

I just adore this stone! The diamond is a proprietary "Prince Cut" and defined as "a contemporary version of the classic emerald cut diamond, featuring innovative cropped corners and stepped sides. Prince Cut diamonds have 111 facets, compared to traditional emerald shaped diamonds which have 46...

www.jewelsbygrace.com

 

[tr401]

Have you seen these:

GIA Certified D Color 2.01 Carat L'amour Crisscut Diamond Platinum Ring For Sale at 1stDibs | crisscut diamond cost, crisscut diamond reviews, crisscut diamond prices

For Sale on 1stDibs - Spectacular diamond ring, prong set in center with GIA certified 2.01 L'amour Crisscut diamond, D color, SI1 clarity in platinum mounting with 22 full

www.1stdibs.com

Christopher Designs Crisscut Three-Stone Diamond Engagement Ring 3.25 Carat For Sale at 1stDibs | chris cut diamond, christopher designs engagement rings, chris cut ring

For Sale on 1stDibs - Christopher Designs Style: Three-Stone Diamond Engagement Ring Serial Number: GIA 15132949 Metal: 18k White Gold Size: 6.5 - sizable Total Carat Weight:

www.1stdibs.com

1.60ct "Prince Cut" Step Cut Diamond Solitaire, GIA G SI1

I just adore this stone! The diamond is a proprietary "Prince Cut" and defined as "a contemporary version of the classic emerald cut diamond, featuring innovative cropped corners and stepped sides. Prince Cut diamonds have 111 facets, compared to traditional emerald shaped diamonds which have 46...

www.jewelsbygrace.com

Thank you! I did see the 1stdibs rings, but I am not as attracted to the Crisscut - the scissoring seems a little too prominent to my eye. The Princecut is interesting! The grading report looks a little low and I don't see the center flashes I'd like in the video...

I can see how this search may become more of a part time job!

 

[diamondhoarder]

Thank you! I did see the 1stdibs rings, but I am not as attracted to the Crisscut - the scissoring seems a little too prominent to my eye. The Princecut is interesting! The grading report looks a little low and I don't see the center flashes I'd like in the video...

I can see how this search may become more of a part time job!

It may be worth contacting Jonathan at Distinctivegem. The lab diamond he has which is similar to the branded Victorian Cut can be custom cut in natural diamond. I did discuss this with him myself a couple of years ago. His prices are very reasonable (way lower than what you would pay for a branded cut) and you would probably be able to stipulate your preferred L/W ratio too. Plus he really understands light performance and will be able to provide you with a diamond that performs beautifully and will have ASET images and other information to share with you too.

Distinctive Gem Inc. on Instagram: "Brand spanking new cut for Distinctive Gem! This 2.21 carat H color vvs2 clarity features a step cut pavilion and a brillianteered crown BUT cut with optics that are unmatched. This particular diamond is a 1.43 t

141 likes, 9 comments - distinctivegem on April 20, 2021: "Brand spanking new cut for Distinctive Gem! This 2.21 carat H color vvs2 clarity features a step cut pavilion and a brillianteered crown BUT cut with optics that are unmatched. This particular diamond is a 1.43 to 1 ratio and also...

www.instagram.com

You could also try:

ℙ (@liloupaz) • Instagram photos and videos

www.instagram.com

I believe that she has a family connection with the creator of the PrinceCut, she features a number of them on her website. She's based in Israel but does ship internationally and often offers the Princecuts at very good prices. You could ask her if she can source a 2ct for you.

I cant wait to see what you can come up with! Your stone will be out there for you somewhere.......

 

[tr401]

I ordered in a stone! It is a generic cut - round cornered elongated cushion - but probably most similar to a Crisscut. I would like to get a few opinions on the optics as I am still new to this. At a few angles, I feel like I’m getting some prominent dark facets but overall I think it’s a beautiful stone. What do you think?

2ct/I/VS2.

Indirect natural light:

LED light

@diamondhoarder - would love your opinion!

 

[diamondhoarder]

I ordered in a stone! It is a generic cut - round cornered elongated cushion - but probably most similar to a Crisscut. I would like to get a few opinions on the optics as I am still new to this. At a few angles, I feel like I’m getting some prominent dark facets but overall I think it’s a beautiful stone. What do you think?

2ct/I/VS2.

Indirect natural light:

LED light

@diamondhoarder - would love your opinion!

Interesting stone! In the first video there seems to be 2 prominent dark areas of contrast either side of the culet although this is not apparent in the second video. Do you have the stone on hold? If so are you able to post the GIA cert? It would be interesting to assess the face-up size and dimensions for the carat weight, since this cut can face up larger than you might expect for the carat weight. Is there a possibility to get an ASET image for the diamond? And can you see it and evaluate it in person? It certainly has potential based on the videos, but I think that more info would be definitely be helpful before you commit.

 

[tr401]

Thank you for the quick response! Here is the GCAL:

Gem Certification & Assurance Lab

www.gcalusa.com

I have the stone in my possession but can take advantage of the 30 day return policy. I don’t have an ASET image but could order a handheld one online….The reading I’ve done on GCAL has said the colored symmetry image isn’t really an ASET although looks similar.

Thank you for your continued help!

 

[diamondhoarder]

Thank you for the quick response! Here is the GCAL:

Gem Certification & Assurance Lab

www.gcalusa.com

I have the stone in my possession but can take advantage of the 30 day return policy. I don’t have an ASET image but could order a handheld one online….The reading I’ve done on GCAL has said the colored symmetry image isn’t really an ASET although looks similar.

Thank you for your continued help!

I think that since you have the stone in your possession then your own observations of it will be the best indicator of whether its right for you. You could order a handheld ASET scope if you want to capture more imagery of it, but really the ASET images should just confirm what you can see with your own eyes.

One of the most telling lighting conditions is in low indoor lighting, away from spotlights. Eg under a table or maybe in incandescent lighting in a shadow. This is where you will notice if there are any distinct areas with loss of brightness, and this often shows up leakage issues under the diamonds table if there are any.

If you can do it safely I would suggest taking it outside too, in full sun and shade, and then if you take it under a tree on a sunny day you would hope to see an even distribution of rainbow colours reflected throughout the stone as you tilt it back and forth.

If you have any other diamonds to compare it against then that can help guage how happy you are with the light performance of your stone. I always compare fancies with my round brilliant, since my round brilliant has excellent light return right across the stone. Fancies will usually have less brilliance than a well cut round brilliant and more leakage and for me when looking at the 2 together if my fancy can hold its own fairly well next to my RB then I know I'm onto a winner. Of course you have to offset the benefits of shape and a more unusual facet pattern against the uniformity of brilliant cut light return and its always a personal call as what appeals to you the most.

As far as colour is concered, how happy are you with I colour? My general understanding of lab grown diamonds is that the lower colours graded by GCAL and IGI can show a little more tint than natural GIA graded diamonds so if you have an opportunity to compare yours with a I graded natural diamonds then even better. These hybrid step cuts can reflect back large amounts of white light across the belly of the diamond when they are well cut and this may counter any apparent tint face-on, although it may be more noticeable at the ends of the diamond.

The other aspect to consider with lab grow diamonds is how crisp the scintillation looks. Some lab grown diamonds have noticeable strain (imperfections in the crystal structure which occur during growth) which cause a sort of fuzzy, reduced light performance. I came across this issue when I ordered a lab grown asscher some time ago, and I couldn't understand which it seemed so "quiet" despite being very nicely cut. There's a thread on it here in which the CEO of ADA diamonds explains the issues with strain and what to look out for:

My search for the perfectly cut asscher has led me to a lab grown stone

I got really fed up of looking for a decent asscher in the size I wanted with the right specs and a really great cut, without breaking the bank. :wall: And with all the financial uncertainty around COVID as well, I have been cautious about a big purchase. Ive been looking for just the right...

www.pricescope.com

Ultimately, you need to ask yourself, does the stone "wow" you? How did you feel when you first laid eyes on it? I have found that unless a diamond captures my imagination in those first few seconds of seeing it and makes my heart skip a beat then it will not grow on me, regardless of how many different lighting conditions I view it in. But if it packs a visual punch on first sight then its off to a strong start and I just need to make sure its not going to disappoint me in other lighting.

 

[tyty333]

I hate to be debbie downer but that aset doesn't look all that appealing. I like to see some more red and blue or at least green
and blue for scintillation but it looks mostly just gray (mushy) like it only has minimal good light return. The good news is that you have
it in hand and you can see for yourself if it has nice facets flashing on/off. Also, in the first video, you posted those 2 black facets
up the center look pretty prevalent. They don't look like they are flashing on/off...they just look like they are staying black. If that's
truly the case it would be a no for me.

 

[diamondhoarder]

I hate to be debbie downer but that aset doesn't look all that appealing. I like to see some more red and blue or at least green
and blue for scintillation but it looks mostly just gray (mushy) like it only has minimal good light return. The good news is that you have
it in hand and you can see for yourself if it has nice facets flashing on/off. Also, in the first video, you posted those 2 black facets
up the center look pretty prevalent. They don't look like they are flashing on/off...they just look like they are staying black. If that's
truly the case it would be a no for me.

I think part of the problem with evaluating this stone is that the coloured image provided by GCAL on the report is not a traditional ASET image, so it cant be interpreted in quite the same way. They call it optical symmetry analysis, and the colours do not seem to mean the same things as we have come to understand them when viewing ASET images.

As an example of how they compare, here is a GCAL report for an asscher I ended up returning side by side against a true ASET image:



I do agree about the contrasty areas in the first video but only you ( @tr401 ) can see how that effect plays out in real life in different lighting conditions.

 

[tyty333]

I see the big difference @diamondhoarder

@tr401 Please ignore my comments on the aset image...(because its not really an aset and my comments probably do not apply)