I need help from a jewelry designer

[MountainJuls]

Hi all,

I haven't been on here for quite a while, not that I really posted much before. I have always been more of a lurker! Anyway, I have a loverly 2.13ct F VS1 from Wink in 2020 when he was still at CBI. I hadn't worn any rings for the year or so prior because my original 90's mall set had damage and no longer fit after 25+ years. It has taken me a while to figure out what I like and didn't like and what fits my lifestyle. Then I found David Klass and started designs but realized that while he will make whatever I want, he is not the one to take my needs and wants and ideas and come up with an original cohesive design. I feel like I need someone who I can tell what I like and don't like and they can inject a dose of style and design and come up with the design and then I can go have David Klass make it. You know, like a what a designer can do for your home or kitchen, but for jewelry. Is this a profession, or do designers mostly just work for jewelry makers? I don't want to waste his time with starting the design process all over again until I have a clearer direction. TIA~Juls

 

[Rfisher]

Are you only open to DKJ doing the actual production work
or are you open to following through with the designer to the end?
I can’t say you won’t find someone to just do a design for you, ( I can think of one off hand but dont know if they are accepting any new clients) but I don’t think it’s typical?

Can you / would you show some pics that show the general ballpark inspo of the design style you wish to end up with?
that might help weed out suggestions that ultimately won’t be a good fit.

 

[vintageinjune]

If you are searching for a designer to execute a vision, I think it might be best to consider switching from DK to another from start to finish. I have yet to come across a service where you can pay a designer to make a CAD but have someone else make it (I'm sure it happens, but probably more often in a commercial capacity rather than a mom and pop shop).

I agree with Rfisher, would you be willing to post some photos of designs you like, and perhaps an explanation of what you may be searching for, so others can help you find the right designer for your needs?

 

[Resonance.Of.Life]

I don't know of any designers who would let you execute their design as it is their artwork with another bench. I mean, if they were, the costs would be astronomical as they are essentially giving away the rights to their intellectual property.

 

[denverappraiser]

Most designers I know are interested in selling the entire piece, not just the design service. The bench work is either done by them or someone who works for them. It maintains control over the process. To some extent it comes down to how they make money but if they design a piece and some jeweler outside of their wheelhouse does a bad job, it makes THEM look bad. I don't think I know any who would do what you're asking.

 

[MountainJuls]

Are you only open to DKJ doing the actual production work
or are you open to following through with the designer to the end?
I can’t say you won’t find someone to just do a design for you, ( I can think of one off hand) but I don’t think it’s typical?

Can you / would you show some pics that show the general ballpark inspo of the design style you wish to end up with?
that might help weed out suggestions that ultimately won’t be a good fit.

I'm not totally tied to using DKJ, but I do like the everlasting patience and CAD designs in order to know what I am getting. Especially because I like a variety of styles and may need to work through a variety of options. I also like the value aspect, but that is not the main driver, I just want to feel I am getting my money's worth.
Must haves: bezel around main stone, platinum, stacks well with other bands(gap ok!), lowish setting with donut or base to allow stacking
Likes/wants: something other than just plain bezel, minimum metal around diamonds, but not ethereal super thin setting, ok with 18K yellow gold on band but platinum only around diamonds, love elongated French cuts, channel set, bezels, three stone, side stones, I like some halos but not usually on round stones because they tend to look like target rings which isn't my thing. Simple, but not plain, detailed but not ornate, interesting basket detail(not just plain basket setting)
Dislikes/avoid: prongs and I don't get along because I have super fine hair and lots of it that always gets snagged, super fancy designs, micro pave, super modern designs, partial bezels, asymmetrical, angular or geometric shapes,
Inspo: I like the French cuts on the side but would prefer they be same width if multiple on band, also prefer cathedral setting that bows in on the shoulders, not out. Not sure if that is possible with elongated French cuts. Also, would prefer not just plain bezel around center stone.

I also like this three stone with only one angled French cut on the sides, but not sure how that would look with a MRB as the center stone.

Here is one that has a halo although I don't like the airline gap. It is octagonal although it seems a bit softer than some octagonal designs I have seen.
Mrs B's set is a great example of mixing gold and platinum in such a neat detailed way without being too fussy.

Another three stone I like for proportions, although I could never deal with all those prongs. I also like side stones smaller although I didn't find a pic yet.

 

[Rfisher]

Have you spoken directly to Amy at DKJ in regards of design assistance/cohesion you are looking for? If not - maybe that’s what is missing in your experience.

otherwise -
with your very first inspo pic, yeah I think the cathedral shoulders don’t have to be convex.

I don’t know how much it’s acceptable of where the line is drawn on how many options and iterations are ‘too much’ to trudge through with a designer active hands along on finding what design and it is you want to choose from to springboard off of.

I get it though!! Choosing is hard sometimes.

Seeing your inspos and zeroing (again) in on the first one you showed -
I’d be tempted to contact Maytal Hannah. @elrohwen
three stone from her is my reasoning. Outside of MH typical style - but she knocked it out of the park with that one. I bet she could execute something very very cohesive design wise with your inspo and wants.

Bezel Three Stone RHR - Montana Sapphire and OECs - from MH

I’m so excited to share my new RHR! The center stone is a 0.87ct Montana sapphire from Gemfix. The side stones are 0.84tcw OECs that I got about 5 years ago from Old World Diamonds as earrings (I took the opportunity to upgrade my studs in order to use these). I think the slightly chunky cut...

www.pricescope.com

I don’t know her opinions of CAD grazing tho. That’s a hard one to find other than DKJ.

 

[MountainJuls]

Thanks all! I do understand how designers would want to maintain creative control over production. That makes sense. I am kind of tapped out creatively from making decisions for building our home so that is how I came to wonder if the same kind of design process for interiors was a thing for jewelry. I have only emailed DKJ back and forth, so if I pursue then I need to call and ask for Amy? In regards to Maytal Hannah, I have seen some of her work on here and it is beautiful. I guess I had thought of her work as having a typical style that wasn't what I was looking for. I will check into her a bit more.
I will say, this has been one downside of choosing diamonds and jewelers separately online that I haven't seen discussed. Probably depends on the person, but I never had quality jewels until I jumped in headfirst. Perhaps I got in a bit over my head with wanting the perfect setting for my diamond that suited me exactly. I have read about so many ladies changing their settings and I really wanted to avoid that by getting the one and being done. When it seems, to some extent, that it takes actually wearing styles in order to figure out what is the one and done. Kissing the frog so to speak! If I had chosen a setting when I first got my diamond, I would have done tiny claw prongs because I love the look. Now that I have realized some things about myself, I know that would have been a mistake.
Apologies for the neurosis, I think analysis paralysis is getting to me.

 

[yssie]

It doesn’t sound like you actually want “patience with CADs” though. My read - what you’re really asking for is someone who will understand your desired aesthetic and take your wishlist and create a piece that you’ll love. And if they can accomplish that in one CAD that’s much better than you yourself sorting through multiple rounds of CAD, right?

 

[MountainJuls]

It doesn’t sound like you actually want “patience with CADs” though. My read - what you’re really asking for is someone who will understand your desired aesthetic and take your wishlist and create a piece that you’ll love. And if they can accomplish that in one CAD that’s much better than you yourself sorting through multiple rounds of CAD, right?

Yes! I guess I just assumed I would need to work through a variety of CAD's since I have aspects I like on several different styles. But you're right-if someone can somehow translate my list into an actual ring, then I am all for it to happen especially if it is on the first try.
It looks like you had suggested Caysie Van Bebber, but now I don't see that. I have read some good and bad things on this forum. While I don't want to open any can of worms, did you mean to remove the recommend?

 

[yssie]

I did suggest Caysie, but yeah I removed cause I wanted to double check that I understood what you wanted before making a vendor rec.

Caysie - you can give her a wishlist, a set of ideas, and a photo board, and she’ll be able to create something that’s both beautiful and sturdy. She’s an artist by schooling and she’s one of the best at translating vision into form and function.

But she doesn’t work quickly, and you won’t get daily or even weekly updates. And whilst she will welcome your input and veto on her design ideas, she won’t be looking for you to dictate every last detail. So your success working with her will depend on alignment of expectations…

I’d say take a look at her Insta. @cvb.inspired.design. If you like the look and feel of her pieces, text or WhatsApp her at the number in her IG profile.

 

[BoulderGal]

I'm not totally tied to using DKJ, but I do like the everlasting patience and CAD designs in order to know what I am getting. Especially because I like a variety of styles and may need to work through a variety of options. I also like the value aspect, but that is not the main driver, I just want to feel I am getting my money's worth.
Must haves: bezel around main stone, platinum, stacks well with other bands(gap ok!), lowish setting with donut or base to allow stacking
Likes/wants: something other than just plain bezel, minimum metal around diamonds, but not ethereal super thin setting, ok with 18K yellow gold on band but platinum only around diamonds, love elongated French cuts, channel set, bezels, three stone, side stones, I like some halos but not usually on round stones because they tend to look like target rings which isn't my thing. Simple, but not plain, detailed but not ornate, interesting basket detail(not just plain basket setting)
Dislikes/avoid: prongs and I don't get along because I have super fine hair and lots of it that always gets snagged, super fancy designs, micro pave, super modern designs, partial bezels, asymmetrical, angular or geometric shapes,
Inspo: I like the French cuts on the side but would prefer they be same width if multiple on band, also prefer cathedral setting that bows in on the shoulders, not out. Not sure if that is possible with elongated French cuts. Also, would prefer not just plain bezel around center stone.

I also like this three stone with only one angled French cut on the sides, but not sure how that would look with a MRB as the center stone.

Here is one that has a halo although I don't like the airline gap. It is octagonal although it seems a bit softer than some octagonal designs I have seen.
Mrs B's set is a great example of mixing gold and platinum in such a neat detailed way without being too fussy.

Another three stone I like for proportions, although I could never deal with all those prongs. I also like side stones smaller although I didn't find a pic yet.

@MountainJuls did you ever decide on a design? Many of your likes/dislikes are similar to mine, so I was curious to see how it's going.