I need to be educated about Rubies

[DahliaDante]

Hello everyone!

I am back! The woman that divorced a money-draining man and discovered that her own paycheck covered the bills …and can fund a very small jewelry habit.

My first purchase was to go with a custom ring setting for a beautiful emerald stone that my mother had sitting in a box. And now I’m hooked on colored stones!

Recently (last night), my wonderful boyfriend told me it is time to look at rings! He wants to know exactly what I want, and then he wants to propose down the road. Which sounds torturous to be honest. But I appreciate the romantic effort for it to be a surprise.

Anyways, I’m leaning towards asking for a Ruby ring. I like the “stop light” red color, as opposed to the dark blood color. And I much prefer the stone to look Crystal-y? Or liquid-y? Or have depth?(I’m not sure of the correct term) as opposed to a solid look that many ruby stones have.

I’ve recently started researching rubies and now I’m scared of paying top price for a low-quality stone. Mainly I’m afraid of glass filling, or other methods to turn a not-so-good stone into a beautiful piece that may not last a lifetime.

I understand I can find a vendor I trust, and ask if there are treatments. But how does the vendor know? And are there tests that can be done to ensure the stone is as it is presented?

Should I only consider GIA certified stones? Is that my only guarantee?

Thanks in advance!

 

[lovedogs]

yay, this is so exciting! Rubies are gorgeous, so makes sense that you are interested in them as a center stone. One thing to think about is whether you are ok with heat treatment. Heat is extremely common, and doesn't compromise the integrity of the stone. It lowers cost, since finding a unheated stone is more difficult. IMHO, heat is an acceptable treatment, but you have to make sure you're ok with it.

That said, the best way to be sure about treatments is to buy from a reputable seller (see our "trusted vendor" list), and make sure it comes with a lab report GIA, AGL, etc. For example, these rubies from gemfix come with a GIA report that is linked in the listing.

https://gemfix.com/gem-category/ruby

If you look at the first one on the list, you can click on the GIA report and see that the only treatment is heat.

We can probably help you look for a stone/ring if you tell us budget, preferred size, etc. Good luck!

 

[DahliaDante]

Thank you. I am ok with heat treatments. I went through the trusted vendor guide and clicked on every single vendor link. Many vendors carry a multitude of stones but not rubies? That seemed kind of weird. I looked at a few sapphire tabs to see if the rubies were mixed in, but nope.

Anyways, I identified two vendors that seem to have a nice selection. So I saved their links.

I'm going to slowly ease my boyfriend into the idea of a ruby, and the idea of buying a stone alone, and a setting separately.

My boyfriend is a fan of the chain jewelry stores, to him all jewelry looks the same. I think he will get easily overwhelmed with my method if I don't handle this right. He's expecting me to see and ask for an all-inclusive ring. But putting pieces together to create a one-of-a-kind seems like so much more fun!

So I'm doing some preliminary research now, to try and get my terminology and information right.

 

[Bron357]

You must buy from a reputable vendor.
“Heated” is to be expected as “unheated” carries a hefty premium. Add Burmese origin and you are talking huge $$$$.
Glass filled is to be avoided at all costs, mainly because the treatment is so unstable. Fortunately glass filled is relatively easy to detect.
Much harder to detect is Beryllium treatement, this requires specialized lab equipment so only a GIA, AGL or Swiss Lab report (there may be a few others) can exclude this treatment. It often accompanies heat treatment and is not an accepted treatment though it is stable.
The reason why you need to be sure is rubies are very expensive. Unheated, good colour rubies can be over $3,000 a carat. Many people will do whatever it takes to turn their $2 or $200 value Ruby into one that looks like it’s worth $3,000 a carat.
Man made rubies are a whole other issue. Chemically identical to natural it usually requires a qualified gemologist to identify. There is nothing “wrong” with lab created in so much as they are durable and beautiful but again, they are worth a few dollars each, made by the literal tons each year and most definately not worth $3,000 a carat.
Buying from a “mall jeweller” you are almost guaranteed to be buying lab created at best, at worst glass filled. Real rubies are rare that’s why they are expensive.
The easiest way to get your boyfriend on board is to google “Kay jewellers glass filled rubies”. There is also an “undercover” report on utube. Basically they were selling glass filled rubies as untreated and it was a huge scandal. Show him the photos of what happens to glass filled rubies if exposed to any acid - even lemon juice. They basically disintegrate.
Also, don’t be lulled into a false sense of security by looking at antique rings set with rubies. Lab created rubies have been around well over 100 years so even expensive looking antique rings can contain lab created rubies.
And finally read mm measurements rather than carat weight. Rubies are more dense than say diamonds so for the same carat weight a ruby is a smaller size. Rubies are most often oval shape and can have “fat bottoms” meaning carat weight is underneath so what you can “see” of the carat weight is less than you might expect.
The photo of two of mine, they look similiar size but the one on the left is 2.05 carats (with a fat bottom) whereas the right side one is only 1.70 carat as it is slim under the girdle.

 

[DahliaDante]

Thank you for this information! Your description off people paying premium for junk is my fear. I do feel reassured that glass filled rubies can be detected. And that if I get a certified stone, I am getting the real deal. I have read about heat treatments and it does not bother me.

I've been looking at online PS vendors- and the prices of heated Rubies seems to be almost as high as diamonds? I really thought diamonds were the most expensive gemstone, and mainstream color gemstones are significantly less. But when I compare the size of rubies and diamonds, and the prices are almost comparable. There is no real bang for your buck by switching to a ruby.

And now you tell me that Rubies are denser, so the same carat size will be smaller than a diamond.
oiy-veh. But I'm still leaning towards a ruby.
Thank you for the information!

 

[lovedogs]

Yeah, you are totally right that high quality rubies are very expensive (Even heated). They are close to diamond in price sometimes, especially if you are talking about premium color, etc. I think if your budget allows for a ruby or diamond and you want a ruby, then go for it! But certainly don't choose it as a "budget" alternative haha.

I have no clue what your budget is, but there are places who have the "entire ring" and are reputable--they are just usually expensive. Ivy New York https://ivynewyork.com is super pricey, but their rings come with certs for rubies, so you wouldn't need to be concerned at all about getting "junk". But it comes at a premium because of the brand, etc.

 

[DahliaDante]

Thank you for that help! I just looked at Ivynewyork and I have saved the link. I don't completely know what my budget is either, but I'm guessing $3500 is tops for the stone. And I'd like to get over 1.2 carats. I know I need to look at mm. But my brain is so wired for carat size that I have not yet learned to visualize mm.
Half of me is thinking I'll pitch in and help with the cost. It seems very one sided to expect him to pay so much, for something that I know he does not understand or care much about.
Thank you for the help about kays jewlers fraud, I'll be bringing that up. Because as much as he wants a simple visit to the mall jewelry store- I know he does not want to put out so much money for an inferior product. A product he already doesn't think is really worth all the hype to begin with.

Too bad. He fell in love with a jewelry addict. And I don't like costume jewelry.

 

[Bron357]

This is a 1 carat (1.07) ruby on my daughters size 6 fingers. She has long slim fingers (lucky her). The other photo is an Ivy and Rose setting ($515 I think) that would suit a ruby this size.
Now, does your boyfriend grab a coffee everyday? Well, if he does that’s $1,000 a year. Over 20 years of marriage, that’s $20,000 on a cup of coffee that takes 5 minutes or less to drink with nothing to show for it afterwards!
A well bought gem and setting will always be worth around what you paid for it.
A mall jeweller bought rings cost will include shop rent, insurances, staff wages etc whereas an on line vendor can be as good but a lot cheaper simply because they don’t have to add these expenses into the cost of items they sell. So buying separately and online is a cost saving.
And explain to him that a beautiful engagement ring is always worth the money because you will gaze down on it with great joy and delight more than a hundred tomes a day.
An engagement ring is a ring, it is THE ring!

 

[lovedogs]

perfectly said @Bron357 !

 

[qubitasaurus]

Rubies are if anything more expensive than daimonds.

Actually I think the current price charts here show the comparison (I believe these charts show current market prices)

http://www.preciousgemstones.com/pricelists.html

To look at what you are actually likely to pay I would skim through gemfix, pearlmans and cushiongem. Due to their larger inventories, and tendency to list prices. Afterwards I'd look at Ivy new york's red spinel page (as spinel is comparitively more affordable than rubies and more likely to have the spot light red colour you are looking for).

In terms of buying Roger Dery has a few nice stones at the moment. And finewatergems and gemfix have some red spinels. There is a nice one by jeff white listed on the somebody's got to buy that stone thread. And the gemtrader has one listed in budget

https://thegemtrader.squarespace.com/gems-ruby-sapphire/101-ct-unheated-mozambique-ruby

But I think the price is low because it is silky. And actually I am surprised this one hasnt sold yet

https://www.etsy.com/sg-en/listing/...eated-red-ruby-cushion?ref=shop_home_active_8

Otherwise, a red spinel may have more of the qualities you are looking for at a better price point.

 

[DahliaDante]

Oh you guys know just where to look and just what I like! I like both stones listed in the above link- I would get the first if I was doing the trigger pulling!
I’m gonna save these vendors and revisit them the next time he brings up the ring discussion.
And I appreciate the rally cries supporting me to purchase from online vendors!

 

[Arcadian]

Jeff White had a ruby I don't know if its still available.

Frankly If I were looking for a ruby it would be that one
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...a-buy-this-stone.177156/page-120#post-4375928

 

[Sunstorm]

If you can afford it buy an untreated stone. Not necessarily because gems are to be considered as investment but for a bit more money and in some cases not much more you can get quite a stone. Untreated rubies have been scarce in nice qualities and going up in price steadily, I bet they will become even rarer later on. It´s just that they are really special and worthy of an engagement ring. I saw some gorgeous examples on vendor sites the nice ladies here recommended. Really curious to see what you will end up getting. Like you I also do not mind contributing to the cost and getting a nicer stone at the end. At the end of the day I want to wear what I really love and makes my heart sing and you will be sharing expenses once married anyhow.

 

[LilAlex]

Maybe just get a spinel. Not quite as hard but your $ goes a lot further -- especially if you're looking for a slightly lighter tone. Affordable untreated rubies are not very impressive to look at. But you could get a gorgeous Mahenge spinel, imo.

 

[DahliaDante]

Ok guys, I think I’ve identified the ring design I’d like, and I told the boyfriend.

I think I’m going with an east/west emerald cut ruby with a plain smooth white gold band.

I’ve got a similar ring from my mothers collection and I’ve included a picture of that ring. I put on that ring today just while running errands and it was so much less cumbersome than my large 2 ct emerald- that I think I want my engagement ring to be simple and appropriate for every day wear.

Plus, I’ll need a smaller stone to ensure it is flush with the band width. So more affordable.

Plus, I’ve got the ring in my jewelry box- boyfriend simply needs to pull it out, bring it to a jeweler and ask for the same design with a ruby and plain band.

So today, I cleaned the ring, called boyfriend over to me, and said “I think I’d like this same design for my ring. A .75 carrot ruby angles east/west in a plain band. Do you like it?” He said yes. Then I said “ok, I do too. So a .75 ct ruby sideways in a plain band.” So I think I laid it out to him VERY CLEARLY.

Now the call is in his court. Hopefully I’ll be posting pictures of it maybe by next year!

 

[peacechick]

Ok guys, I think I’ve identified the ring design I’d like, and I told the boyfriend.

I think I’m going with an east/west emerald cut ruby with a plain smooth white gold band.

I’ve got a similar ring from my mothers collection and I’ve included a picture of that ring. I put on that ring today just while running errands and it was so much less cumbersome than my large 2 ct emerald- that I think I want my engagement ring to be simple and appropriate for every day wear.

Plus, I’ll need a smaller stone to ensure it is flush with the band width. So more affordable.

Plus, I’ve got the ring in my jewelry box- boyfriend simply needs to pull it out, bring it to a jeweler and ask for the same design with a ruby and plain band.

So today, I cleaned the ring, called boyfriend over to me, and said “I think I’d like this same design for my ring. A .75 carrot ruby angles east/west in a plain band. Do you like it?” He said yes. Then I said “ok, I do too. So a .75 ct ruby sideways in a plain band.” So I think I laid it out to him VERY CLEARLY.

Now the call is in his court. Hopefully I’ll be posting pictures of it maybe by next year!

I’m sure your boyfriend appreciates how fuss-free you are making this for him! Does he know about ruby treatments? How can you prevent him from buying a flux healed ruby from the mall jewellers or are you sending him to your trusted vendors only to shop for it?

 

[Bron357]

Very stylish. Simple and elegant.
You could (later) do two (one each side) small diamond bands as a “frame”.
This is my 1. 1 carat Ruby (it’s more Blood red than stop light red) on my “fat” finger.