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Ideal Diamonds – What most jewelers don’t even know!

Texas Leaguer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
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Jul 27, 2009
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If you are in the market for a diamond these days you will likely hear terms like “ideal cut”, “hearts and arrows” and “triple excellent”. Even “Superideal”. What exactly is an ideal cut diamond and what do all these different superlatives mean? Read this short article if you want to know more on the subject than most people in the trade!

First, it should be understood that these terms really refer to only one of the diamond 4 C’s (albeit the most important one) – CUT. The color, clarity and the carat weight of a given diamond are assessed in roughly the same way today as they have been since the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) first began issuing diamond grading reports in the 1950’s. But the all-important cut grade has undergone an evolution in understanding and interest in the past 10 to 20 years.

Experts have long known that a well-cut diamond displays much greater fire and brilliance than a diamond of average cut quality. But until recently there was not enough understanding or appreciation in the broader market of the impact of cut quality on diamond performance. Therefore, there was not enough demand for very precisely cut diamonds to justify the extra expense in manufacturing them. With the advent of the internet, this information began to circulate widely and there is now a strong movement towards ideal cut diamonds.

What is an Ideal Cut Diamond?
The ideal cut diamond came to prominence in the US in large part through the efforts of the American Gem Society (AGS). One of the most influential developments in the ideal diamond movement was the establishment of the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL) in 1996. Their goal, in addition to their overall mission of consumer protection and education, was to research diamond cut quality and provide objective measurement of this crucial aspect of diamond quality. Their work, and particularly the AGS Ideal grade (AGS Triple 0) was quickly embraced by a market hungry for certified diamonds with the best light performance.

With AGSL leading the way and demonstrating the strong demand in the diamond market for much better reporting of cut quality, the GIA developed its own cut grading system which was launched in 2005. In the interim, AGSL continued to conduct advanced research into diamond light performance and at about the same time unveiled a revolutionary new light performance based cut grading system which represented a quantum leap in sophistication. In 2022 The GIA purchased the cut grading technology developed by AGS and brought the AGSL team of researchers onboard, a promising development for greatly expanding the reach of the world’s best light performance grading system.

Shortly after the acquisition took place, and as a first step in deploying the AGSL light performance system, the GIA began offering an AGS Ideal addendum report for qualifying diamonds submitted to the lab for grading.

The new GIA Ideal Cut Diamond?
Since its launch the GIA cut grading system for round diamonds has received criticism from diamond professionals who believe it is too broad and forgiving, including by some of the experts here on Pricescope. Because the system is parameter-based, basic measurements are compared to tables developed in observational studies and the grade is pegged against pre-graded diamond proportion sets. The Excellent grade has been singled out as including diamonds with demonstrable light leakages and other deficiencies. This leaves consumers with limited means of identifying the truly excellent diamonds in the category, although handy tools like the Holloway Cut Adviser (HCA) can quickly eliminate some of the outliers in the GIA Excellent range. And the IdealScope gives a visual readout of problems related to light leakage with many diamonds graded as Excellent by GIA. But with the introduction of the AGS Ideal addendum report based upon ray tracing light performance analysis, the GIA has taken a big step in addressing this problem. In a real sense GIA has now segmented their Excellent category and adopted what is essentially the new GIA Ideal Cut.

The term “Triple Excellent or Triple Ex” refers to the highest cut grade in the GIA system and “Triple Ideal “or “Triple Zero” and AGS Ideal refer to reports with the highest cut grade in the AGS system; a system which is far more strict. The combination of both in their reporting is a significant advancement in terms of providing consumers the information they need when shopping for diamonds of elite cut quality and light performance.

Round Ideal Diamond and Optical Symmetry

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In the late 1970’s and early 1980’s research was conducted in Japan culminating with the invention of the Firescope. This ushered in an era of intense interest in round brilliant diamonds cut with superior three dimensional symmetry. When observed with a simple reflector these diamonds exhibit a pattern of 8 arrows when viewed from the top and eight hearts when viewed from the bottom. Thus the term “hearts and arrows diamonds” was born. Using a hearts and arrows viewer to observe a diamond it is possible to make an assessment of its optical symmetry. When a diamond is properly proportioned and all of the facets are precisely aligned in three dimensions, it is perfectly tuned to optimize the facet design. Because of the extra time and expertise required to craft a diamond with this level of precision, Ideal diamonds with hearts and arrows patterning represent the top few percent of all diamonds on the market.

Using advanced ray tracing software, the AGS light performance system performs direct assessment of light behavior on a precise model of the diamond based upon a full three dimensional scan of every facet. It takse into account the contribution of all the facets in a comprehensive analysis of light output. It is not only the most accurate and critical cut evaluation performed by any gemological laboratory, the real beauty is that the foundational science supporting the system allows it to be applied to a variety of diamond shapes. Already the AGSL is able to provide light performance analysis on princess cuts, ovals, emerald cuts, Asscher, and a variety of specialty cuts. In contrast, the GIA cut grade system is presently limited to round brilliant diamonds.

It should be noted that even the AGS Ideal grade does not directly require perfect optical symmetry, as important as it is to the optimization of light performance. This leaves open the opportunity for an even more elite level of cut quality – the super ideal.

Super ideal vs Ideal cut diamond vs Excellent cut
In the late 1970’s and early 1980’s research was conducted in Japan culminating with the invention of the Firescope. This ushered in an era of intense interest in round brilliant diamonds cut with superior three dimensional symmetry. When observed with a simple reflector these diamonds exhibit a pattern of 8 arrows when viewed from the top and eight hearts when viewed from the bottom. Thus the term “hearts and arrows diamonds” was born. Using a hearts and arrows viewer to observe a diamond it is possible to make an assessment of its optical symmetry. When a diamond is properly proportioned and all of the facets are precisely aligned in three dimensions, it is perfectly tuned to optimize the facet design. Because of the extra time and expertise required to craft a diamond with this level of precision, Ideal diamonds with hearts and arrows patterning represent the top few percent of all diamonds on the market.

Using advanced ray tracing software, the AGS light performance system performs direct assessment of light behavior on a precise model of the diamond based upon a full three dimensional scan of every facet. It takse into account the contribution of all the facets in a comprehensive analysis of light output. It is not only the most accurate and critical cut evaluation performed by any gemological laboratory, the real beauty is that the foundational science supporting the system allows it to be applied to a variety of diamond shapes. Already the AGSL is able to provide light performance analysis on princess cuts, ovals, emerald cuts, Asscher, and a variety of specialty cuts. In contrast, the GIA cut grade system is presently limited to round brilliant diamonds.

It should be noted that even the AGS Ideal grade does not directly require perfect optical symmetry, as important as it is to the optimization of light performance. This leaves open the opportunity for an even more elite level of cut quality – the super ideal.

Super ideal vs Ideal cut diamond vs Excellent cut
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When optical precision is taken into account (also known as optical symmetry or 3D symmetry), there are really three levels of Excellent. The first is the broad GIA designation, with the AGS Ideal grade sitting inside as a higher level. A diamond that has the AGS Ideal grade and also possesses a top level of optical precision, such as is demonstrated by a true pattern of hearts and arrows, constitutes the ultimate level in what is accurately referred to as a “super ideal”. Claims of super ideal therefore need to be documented with evidence of 3D symmetry in the form of advanced light performance imaging such as hearts and arrows scope or ASET light maps. It should be noted that a significant number of merchants use the term without providing that evidence, so those claims should be viewed with an abundance skepticism!
Modern understanding of the extreme importance of diamond cut quality has created demand for ultra precise diamond craftsmanship culminating in the availability of “super ideal diamonds”. These diamonds are capable of drawing light from even the dimmest lighting environments and returning maximum light to the eye in sparkles of flash and fire scintillation.
When it comes to diamond cut quality many shoppers are more than happy with a diamond that bears the GIA designation of Excellent. But those who are prioritizing cut quality and light performance are demanding more than a broad grade that includes diamonds that are sub-par. The collaboration between GIA and AGS, and the new AGS Ideal addendum report from GIA, now provides a way for shoppers to identify the truly exceptional performers in the Excellent grade. For shoppers looking for the best-of-the best there are super ideals that are all that and more; Excellent, Ideal, and possessing top levels of optical symmetry.
 
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All these terms have been hijacked by marketers who know nothing about diamonds.
There are many large sites calling meh stones super ideal.
Without proof these terms are useless and used with deception.
If some one claims super ideal ask for proof.
1. top cut grade from a major lab.
2. Ideal-scope or IS image.
3. hearts image.
4 optional arrow image.
5. Spin videos

Anything less is just marketing garbage and discredited.

Edit to add spin videos to the list these days.
 
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All these terms have been hijacked by marketers who know nothing about diamonds.
There are many large sites calling meh stones super ideal.
Without proof these terms are useless and used with deception.
If some claims super ideal ask for proof.
1. top cut grade from a major lab.
2. Ideal-scope or IS image.
3. hearts image.
4 optional arrow image.

Anything less is just marketing garbage and discredited.

100%!
 
I saw a stone on ebay the other day advertised as triple excellent triple ex and 3ex with a garbage report I have never heard of and isn't on google.

My point is be careful out there....
 
Thanks @Texas Leaguer, for your detailed and informative post regarding diamond cut. It can be very helpful for newbies here not understanding why a GIA 3Ex may not be as excellent as the grade implies. I can certainly understand the huge undertaking of GIA to create a cut grading system. As noted, they had to take into consideration the thousands of diamonds already on the market. Unfortunately, from a consumer point of view, it did not serve as well as it could have for the diamond buying public. I can surely appreciate the AGS addendum that provides another level of assurance regarding ‘ideal’ cut. I guess as I read through all of this, it does seem fairly certain that their rounding will continue. It is hard to interrupt the journey mid course and start a new system that could and probably would contradict many former certifications.

This is why, in large part, I recommend super ideal cut vendors without reservation. Having the ability to speak with a vendor who has the diamond in hand, who also does their own level of assessment, and can give a buyer straightforward answers is invaluable in making a diamond purchase. While everyone is looking for the most bang for the buck, the devil is most often in the small details that these vendors can provide.
 
I saw a stone on ebay the other day advertised as triple excellent triple ex and 3ex with a garbage report I have never heard of and isn't on google.

My point is be careful out there....

How about the 'super ideal' fancies? Now that's a total "tell" for marketing spin!
 
I spend a lot of time educating people I know about all this.

I honestly tell them they can do one of two things:
1. Just buy an ACA from Whiteflash.
2. Get educated for weeks and weeks, learn learn learn, shop shop shop, compare compare compare.

Then if you did step 2 well, you'll probably end up just buying an ACA anyway.

I tell them I can get $100 fro WF if you tell them Kenny sent ya, but please don't mention my name.
I want people who I advise to know there's no money in it for me.
IMO that inspires trust in what I say.

Honest.
 
This is really informative thank you. I actually bought my wife an ACA super ideal from Whiteflash which she loves.
 
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