Ideas to help me learn about Rubies?

[RunningwithScissors]

Hello Fellow PSers!

I've recently purchased two, long saved for diamond pieces (an e-ring upgrade last summer and stud earrings this past month.)

Now I'm working to replenish my "sparkly fund." It will be some time before I'm ready to purchase again.

Perfect time to plan my next acquisition! This time I'm considering a colored gemstone. I love both rubies and sapphires.

Can you suggest ways I can get "up-to-speed" on rubies? I want to become a ruby connoisseur.

Any books on rubies you recommend? I've seen some on Amazon that are very expensive, but my husband works at a major university that specializes in earth sciences so I think I can get them on a library loan for free. Which ones are the best to ease me into rubies?

Where can I go to see multiple rubies at one time? I want to learn what I personally like in ruby color, cut, size and clarity. When I was teaching myself about diamonds, it was easy for me to go to many top-notch diamond stores to try on different cuts, see what my comfort range was for color, get a feel for how different sizes looked on my hand, etc. How can I do this for rubies? They seem so much more rare. Even the high end stores have only one or two at a time. Is there any place in either the US, Canada or the UK/Western Europe I could go to where I could sit down and have someone show me multiple rubies at one time? (I travel a lot for work so flying here or there is not an issue.) I'd prefer to see loose, but in settings would be okay. (And the place I see the rubies doesn't have to be the place I ultimately purchase them from.) Or must I just be resigned to look at one or two rubies at a time?

Any other advice for my ruby education would be appreciated.

 

[voce]

I've been told by trusted people Richard Hughes' book is the best one to educate. Also most expensive; I still need to order one for myself. The next best imo is Secrets of the Gem Trade by Richard Wise.

I think you must go to NYC to see lots and lots of rubies in person. I've educated myself online and learned more through Inken of Enhoerning Jewelry, who is very knowledgeable and generally has some rubies in stock. I would go to Natural Sapphire Company to see lots of commercial rubies and go to Inken for the special high end rubies.

 

[Rfisher]

Does Roger Dery (and the like) still do gem roundtables?

 

[T L]

I know it’s a very old book, and treatments change, but I like this book.

Ruby, Sapphire & Emerald Buying Guide: How to Identify, Evaluate & Select These Gems (Newman Gem & Jewelry) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0929975413/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BeOwEb91XSQ9W

Rubies are extremely expensive, often poorly colored, and highly treated. It is a minefield out there, even for wealthy connoisseurs.

I highly recommend the ruby collection at the Smithsonian Natural history museum in DC, to see a top quality ruby. While very few can afford top quality, I think viewing a top quality gem really helps a consumer understand how not to buy an extremely inferior gem,

Also beware of metaphors such as “pigeon blood” to describe stones. They’re all too commonly used, and abused.

I also highly recommend you read the sticky at the top of this forum for newbies to colored gems.

 

[Niffler75]

@RunningwithScissors I can second @voce recommendation for Secrets of the Gem Trade by Richard Wise. It is a beautiful book with lots of colour photos. IMHO it gives a good amount of information without being overwhelming.

 

[headlight]

Hello @RunningwithScissors - First off, I didn't know you ended up making a decision on the diamond studs! Is there a thread where you posted the details? I think I had previously mentioned to you that I am in the market this year for a pair of 2 ctw E color so I'm interested to see what you decided. (Of course, if we end up with a world-wide pandemic and subsequent global recession, that may definitely get sidelined for 2020!)
As for the ruby, I think you have to decide if you want natural ruby or treated. Natural ruby is very, very expensive, but I know your discerning taste and unwillingness to settle on anything less than the absolute best of the best so you have to think about how you feel regarding treatments. I believe natural, untreated ruby costs more per carat than diamond (with that said, not sure more per carat than YOUR diamond lol!).
It's funny, because you and I are sort of on the same shopping path... I have also been thinking about a ruby pendant and, for me, I would rather have something smaller and more rare but, even with that said, I still don't know if I could afford something small in a natural, untreated stone!
The other thing I want to say about ruby is with regard to the color... I think there's also the consideration for someone as to whether it is more important to get what is the "standard" of fine color, or a color of a stone that they find attractive to them (sometimes one and the same, but definitely not always).
I sort of have "ruby on the brain" right now because I just literally finished that unit of the GIA Colored Stones curriculum for my G.G. education!

 

[T L]

Hello @RunningwithScissors
I believe natural, untreated ruby costs more per carat than diamond (with that said, not sure more per carat than YOUR diamond lol!).

Yes, it does, and that price can go to seven figures per carat in stones above four carats. If the stone is Burmese, add a premium for origin as well. There are lovely African rubies that are a bit more affordable. If you are a collector and want an investment worthy stone (although I don’t recommend gems for investment), a top quality, 4+ carat, eye clean untreated ruby, with the prestigious lab report, is one of the most expensive things you can buy per weight. Only some extremely rare fancy colored diamonds cost more.

 

[AV_]

This is where I started - www (early version), www (current); then, seeing is believing [who can set up a lesson in ruby! I'd ask when/where/if who calls it ruby/sapphire www].

I do not quite know what is published about the development of the GRS 'Pidgeon Blood' standard, that line of thinking is worth knowing [on my to do list].

 

[Bron357]

Yes, Richard Hughes book is THE book. I have done most my research online. Lotus Gemology has some fascinating articles and a wonderful collection of photos of ruby inclusions in different treatments and from different origins.
Seeing rubies in person is much harder. They are usually set into rings etc in jewellery shops and most of those are probably highly treated and without certification. I often go to jewellery auctions if there’s a ruby piece but invariably it’s a disappointing gem.

 

[T L]

This is where I started - www (early version), www (current); then, seeing is believing [who can set up a lesson in ruby! I'd ask when/where/if who calls it ruby/sapphire www].

I do not quite know what is published about the development of the GRS 'Pidgeon Blood' standard, that line of thinking is worth knowing [on my to do list].

Fun fact! I recently found out what pigeon blood refers to! It’s not the actual blood of a pigeon, but the sclera of their eyes. Considering all the species of pigeons, this varies widely in those pigeons where it’s actually reddish. This makes it a very poor metaphor to describe top ruby color.

 

[prs]

Your saving up time would be much shorter if you went with sapphires rather than rubies! The best place to see lots of sapphires and rubies is at previews for Heritage and Bonhams jewelry auctions. Heritage hold previews in a number of cities during the month or so preceding an auction. Bonhams auctions are primarily held in LA with previews every day for the five or so days ahead of the auction.

Bonhams, Christie's and Sotheby's have NY auctions but the jewelry at those auctions is usually priced beyond the reach of this mere mortal. The benefit of auction previews is the price estimates for the stones are usually a pretty good refection of their quality. Also be sure to seek out one of the auction house's jewelry specialists and they will be delighted to tell you the pros and cons of each stone, and maybe show them to you side by side.

One of the lessons we learned for both sapphires and rubies is that until you've seen the very best in person, you just don't know the quality of any stone you might be considering.

 

[PieAreSquared]

Fun fact! I recently found out what pigeon blood refers to! It’s not the actual blood of a pigeon, but the sclera of their eyes. Considering all the species of pigeons, this varies widely in those pigeons where it’s actually reddish. This makes it a very poor metaphor to describe top ruby color.

Interesting! I always wondered about that, given I've never actually come across a bloody pigeon. But...that photo is going to give me nightmares!

 

[RunningwithScissors]

Hello @RunningwithScissors - First off, I didn't know you ended up making a decision on the diamond studs! Is there a thread where you posted the details? I think I had previously mentioned to you that I am in the market this year for a pair of 2 ctw E color so I'm interested to see what you decided. (Of course, if we end up with a world-wide pandemic and subsequent global recession, that may definitely get sidelined for 2020!)
As for the ruby, I think you have to decide if you want natural ruby or treated. Natural ruby is very, very expensive, but I know your discerning taste and unwillingness to settle on anything less than the absolute best of the best so you have to think about how you feel regarding treatments. I believe natural, untreated ruby costs more per carat than diamond (with that said, not sure more per carat than YOUR diamond lol!).
It's funny, because you and I are sort of on the same shopping path... I have also been thinking about a ruby pendant and, for me, I would rather have something smaller and more rare but, even with that said, I still don't know if I could afford something small in a natural, untreated stone!
The other thing I want to say about ruby is with regard to the color... I think there's also the consideration for someone as to whether it is more important to get what is the "standard" of fine color, or a color of a stone that they find attractive to them (sometimes one and the same, but definitely not always).
I sort of have "ruby on the brain" right now because I just literally finished that unit of the GIA Colored Stones curriculum for my G.G. education!

Hi @headlight ! Sorry for my delay in responding, life's been super busy this past week.

You raised some good points to think about. I don't have the answers for what my requirements are yet but here are my thoughts so far:

Color: In general, I don't really care what the world thinks is a beautiful color, I want to learn what color I like. I need to see many in person and hold many against my skin to be able to understand both what I find attractive and also what works with my coloring.

Treatments: I'm not sure how I feel. I know I don't want a heavily-treated stone. And I know I don't want a lab grown one. Whether I'm going to be decide I'm a purist (no treatments) or decide heating is okay, I'm not sure. I need to be around rubies more, and do more reading to determine my comfort level.

Size: Like you, I'd much rather trade down in size to get exactly what color/treatment I decide I want (assuming what I decide I like happens to be expensive.). If money were no object, I still don't want a HUGE stone, because that's just not me. I'm little and I like understated. I don't want something flashy.

Cut: Being well cut is a high priority, but I'm open to many different shapes.

Budget/Timing: I hear you about putting off all major purchases until we know how this pandemic is going to play out. I'm very worried about about everyone's health (which obviously is way more important than jewelry!) and also the world's economy. Basically I'm saving my pennies now and when we all get through these stressful times and out the other side, then we'll see if I've saved enough to purchase. (I'm guessing this will be 1-3 years down the road depending on what happens in the world, how it affects my family, and how expensive a stone I decide I like.)

Sapphire/Ruby/Other colored gem: I am considering ruby, sapphire and colored diamonds. (My favorite colored diamonds are orange-brown, very "autumn" colored ones.) I may even look into emeralds. But my heart beats fastest around rubies.

Setting: I'd like to have a "larger" (not huge - not more than 10mm, probably more like 8mm) colored gemstone set with a smaller colorless diamond in a simple, minimalist pendent setting in platinum.

Thanks for indulging me! This is the first time I've made a "wish list" and it was very helpful to formulate my thoughts.

Now tell me exactly what you are shooting for! I'd love to hear.

 

[RunningwithScissors]

@headlight Sorry, I forgot to answer you about my earrings. Yes! I bought the 2ctw D VS1's from CBI. I absolutely adore them! They are my all-time dream studs! I haven't had a chance to post about them yet. Wink and John Pollard where awesome to work with. I almost bought a pair of 1.6 ctw E VS1 ACAs. They were stunningly gorgeous too. But the CBI/HPD folks made me an offer I couldn't refuse, so I stretched and went with the 2ctw CBIs. And the D color matches my e-ring, so its fun having a true "set."

 

[RunningwithScissors]

Your saving up time would be much shorter if you went with sapphires rather than rubies! The best place to see lots of sapphires and rubies is at previews for Heritage and Bonhams jewelry auctions. Heritage hold previews in a number of cities during the month or so preceding an auction. Bonhams auctions are primarily held in LA with previews every day for the five or so days ahead of the auction.

Bonhams, Christie's and Sotheby's have NY auctions but the jewelry at those auctions is usually priced beyond the reach of this mere mortal. The benefit of auction previews is the price estimates for the stones are usually a pretty good refection of their quality. Also be sure to seek out one of the auction house's jewelry specialists and they will be delighted to tell you the pros and cons of each stone, and maybe show them to you side by side.

One of the lessons we learned for both sapphires and rubies is that until you've seen the very best in person, you just don't know the quality of any stone you might be considering.

Thanks PRS! Good idea regarding Heritage and Bonham's.

Yes, I am definitely considering sapphires. I love them too. Part of the fun is researching! k

I agree 100% with what you said about until you've seen the best unperson, you don't know the quality of any stone you are considering. I would also add, until a person has seen lots of stones, we don't know exactly what we really love either.

 

[RunningwithScissors]

Thanks for all the good ideas everyone! I'll keep you posted and continue to ask many questions. Thanks for being my "Brain Trust!"

 

[Lilith112]

After seeing the best of the best at high-end auction houses, it might be worth it to fly to Hong Kong/Singapore/Thailand once it becomes safer to see some sapphires/rubies, Based on my experience living in China, I believe Asia-based vendors tend to offer lower prices for untreated gemstones than their U.S./Europe counterparts. Definitely not now, but might be an idea for the future

 

[RunningwithScissors]

After seeing the best of the best at high-end auction houses, it might be worth it to fly to Hong Kong/Singapore/Thailand once it becomes safer to see some sapphires/rubies, Based on my experience living in China, I believe Asia-based vendors tend to offer lower prices for untreated gemstones than their U.S./Europe counterparts. Definitely not now, but might be an idea for the future

Wouldn't that be an incredible trip! Something to look forward to when we are all on the other side of this health crisis.

 

[Arcadian]

I learned by the seat of my pants. not the best way to learn...lol

Also, be careful because what some may call a ruby others may call a sapphire. this is usually a cause of having a independent lab report in hand if you want to ensure you have in fact a ruby.

 

[AV_]

Sapphire/Ruby/Other colored gem: My favorite colored diamonds are orange-brown, very "autumn" colored ones.

Many are priced less than rubies - who knows why!

 

[T L]

Many are priced less than rubies - who knows why!

Typically any gem with brown in it, even diamond, is lower cost.

 

[T L]

I learned by the seat of my pants. not the best way to learn...lol

Also, be careful because what some may call a ruby others may call a sapphire. this is usually a cause of having a independent lab report in hand if you want to ensure you have in fact a ruby.

I would only go with a major European or American gem lab for rubies. Some of the Asian labs are too liberal with what they consider a ruby.

 

[MsShnooks]

In terms of shops with rubies, Faberge has some lovely ones to look at.