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Is there a way to minimize extinction in a setting?

Arkteia

Ideal_Rock
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Nov 3, 2009
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I think there is. My gut feeling is that the stone has to be set high and the lower part of the mounting has to be polished, sort of a mirror-way. I have noticed that while some jewelers just close the bezel, others leave a small opening in the back, I wonder if it helps or not. The stone that is least extinct in the set this way. I think it showed some (minimal) extinction before it was set. Now there is none.
Is it just my impression, or are asscher cuts less extinct? My modified stepcut ruby is not extinct at all but I wonder if it is the stone itself.

I think that sending my extinct stones to well-known jewelers to set could be a test but at least I may find one that would agree to remount my alexandrite. If I could, I'd lobotomize the cutter who did this to a beautiful stone. Using an iron pike. :evil:
 
There isn’t much one can do except to leave the stone as open as possible to allow maximum light to pass through. Extinction is mostly a factor of a poor cut coupled with a dark tone. The opening of the back of the bezel is merely to facilitate cleaning. It doesn’t help to allow more light in as the hand is covering the back of the bezel. Just as I’ve seen non extinct asscher cuts, I have also seen extinct asschers on PS due to the overly dark tone.
 
For extinction, no. Unfortunately. If a gem is going to black out in areas it's because of the cutting and no amount of getting the light to it is going to make it much better. Clearly, if you bezel set or close off natural light it may make the extinction worse but I don't know of any cunning tricks to make it appear lighter.
 
yes, enclosing the stone will make it worse. at least with an open pavilion you will get light which will allow some flashes of true color when the light is right.

mz
 
Thank you so much, Chrono, LD and MZ!

So... my bad luck because I like dark, saturated stones. Can I try to remount/mount the ones that are extinct by setting them high, using a basket and either leaving the back open or putting a small piece of highly polished metal at the bottom? That would serve like a mirror to return the light back. Do you think it could help?

Unfortunately, sometimes the countries that produce best stones also generate worst cuts, nothing against their cutters, probably lack of good technology+price-per-carat policy.

As I am typing these words I am looking at the alex in my kitchen incandescent light. Red-purple, no problem at all. Daytime is muddy in the inside with areas of bright-green (remember this antiseptic that you put on small wounds?) on the outside. Sorry to bother people, I am obsessed with this stone.
 
Crasru,
Do you like saturated stones or do you like dark toned saturated stones? I am asking because there is a difference between the two and it is possible to find well saturated stones that are not overly dark. Having a polished metal back will not improve the extinction of the set stone because the light cannot even go through the stone enough to reach the polished metal to be reflected back. As for alexandrites, many have excellent purple red colour but poor blue green colour.
 
Hang on ....... Crasru, are you talking about your Alex when you're talking about extinction? I don't recall it have much. If it is your Alex, you never seem to be very happy with it. Is it the setting or the stone or both? If you're not in love with it totally why don't you try to find another that does set your world alight and then perhaps set your current one into a pendant with an open basket/back?

If it's not your Alex then putting any gem (with or without extinction) set high with an open basket and back will get maximum light to the stone BUT if the facets aren't placed exactly right, you'll still get extinction.

You asked about putting a backing on the stone to reflect the light back? It might work but I doubt it. If your have a stone loose with extinction, get a piece of kitchen foil and place it around the bottom of the stone. That should give you an indication if it would work.
 
Thank you, Chrono and LD!

LD - I am super-happy with my alex in the evening. It is the daytime color that irritates me. Gubelin's certificate says, "strong color shift", and for sure it is strong, a 100% but not to the right tone. Maybe setting it higher could do the trick. Whatever it is... it looked better when I was buying it. The setting must have done something to it.

What irritates me most is that I never saw an alex that would have a good chrystal (this one does) and would switch from perfect raspberry-red to perfect green. The ones with potential were cut shallow and the ones that were cut thick had brown modifier in the evening light. Setting mine in a sledge-high setting and wearing as a pendant could do the trick. Holding it in my hand and spending all the time on a Florida beach would work best. But I am an indoor person.

I think trying the highest setting (within reason) could do the trick. I can always use this one for another stone.
 
over saturation is not necessarily the same as extinction.....

and re the alex: with enough $ one can find what you described....but its a lot of $!!!!!!


mz
 
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