Is White Gold on the Way Out?

[Texas Leaguer]

(and if not, why not!)

Don’t look now but Platinum is having a moment. The exclusive, premium priced precious white metal favored by many for its exclusivity and cache has suddenly also become a budget friendly alternative! It has now been supplanted by white gold as the elite precious metal! At least pricewise. So is white gold on the way in or on the way out?

It’s hard to believe that we have arrived at a point where the spot price of gold is more than double that of platinum! And this has huge implications for jewelry. The differential in spot price has all but eliminated the price incentive to go with white gold as the more affordable white precious metal, which it has been for as long as most of us can remember. What happens now in the market? What is the consumer psychology at play?

Before the run-up in the price of gold, platinum involved a significant premium for those who chose it for its properties and cache. But today that premium has all but been eliminated. In fact, it has been inverted in many cases! Fine jewelry pieces in gold alloys may now cost more than the same pieces in platinum. Will consumers clamor for the relative affordability of platinum, or will the premium price of gold give it the exclusivity and cache that used to put platinum in a league of its own?

Though the spot price of gold is double that of platinum there are two reasons why the price of a finished piece of gold jewelry may still be comparable to the cost in platinum. First, platinum is used in almost pure form in jewelry (90-95% pure), whereas purity for gold alloys in fine jewelry are typically from a little over half (58% for 14K) to three quarters (75% for 18K). Secondly, because of the weight of platinum and the fact that it is used in almost pure form, the same piece made in platinum require more of the precious metal than one made in a gold alloy.

Using very round numbers we can see the cost dynamic:
At 1000/oz for platinum, a 6 gram piece (28 gr/oz) of Plat 950 jewelry contains over $200 dollars worth of platinum. At 2000/oz for gold, a 6 gram piece of 18K contains over $300 worth of gold.

Moderating this differential somewhat is the fact that platinum is denser and heavier than 18K gold alloys so the same piece of jewelry would be lighter (and therefore less costly) in gold. And the same piece made in 14K would be closer still to the price of the platinum piece. *At the time of this writing gold is actually trending upwards of $2500 per ounce.

Superior Properties – Another Reason for Platinum to Shine
In addition to the exclusivity and cache of platinum, making it the longstanding luxury among luxuries for many jewelry shoppers, the properties of the metal are also demonstrably superior to those of white gold alloys. First, platinum is a naturally white metal that does not require rhodium plating to achieve a bright white luster. White gold alloys are “off white” because of the high percentage of yellow gold they contain, even when mixed with white metals like nickel, silver, and palladium . In order to match the natural luster of platinum, white gold alloys must be rhodium plated (rhodium is a platinum group metal). But that plating can eventually wear off revealing the off-white color of the alloy, requiring it to be replated. Secondly, platinum is a “sticky” metal, meaning that it does not wear away. When platinum is scratched a small amount of metal is pushed leaving a very small groove, but the metal from the groove is still part of the piece and can be polished back into place with negligible loss. When a gold alloy is polished a small amount a metal is lost. Prongs on a gold alloy wear over time and eventually need to be re-tipped or rebuilt entirely. Platinum items can be damaged by wear and tear, but the metal it is made from remains intact.

So, with everything platinum has going for it, why are consumers seemingly stuck on white gold? Is it just a case of ‘old habits die hard’ or is there something else going on?

Yellow Gold is Rockin’!
Possibly adding credence to the theory that the high price of gold is making people want it more, yellow gold jewelry seems to be taking off. We are seeing a major increase in the number of pieces sold in yellow gold this year vs last year to date. This could also just be a reflection of fashion trends in terms of color choice, but there also might be a connection between the “richness” of yellow gold in terms of color and its richness in price, making it the new elite and exclusive choice in precious metal. And there is no mistaking yellow gold for the "cheaper" metal platinum! (LOL)

Is Low Karat Gold in Our Future?
In the past, and in some markets today, lower karat gold jewelry has been very popular. In the US 10 karat gold has for decades been considered the lowest purity appropriate for fine jewelry, owing largely to an FTC ruling that prohibited sellers from promoting any item as “gold” that did not contain at least 41.7% pure gold (10K). And it was a popular standard in the American market historically until the emergence of 14k as the most popular gold alloy in more recent times. Even lower karat purities are considered appropriate for fine jewelry in other countries. The minimum standard in the UK is 9K.

But in a recent ruling in 2018 the FTC removed the prohibition against selling lower purity gold alloys as “gold”, though they require prominent disclosure of the actual percent of gold in the piece. This favorable ruling resulted in the emergence of gold jewelry products as low as 1K – one karat gold – 1/24th pure (about 4%)!

It would not be surprising, considering the high price of gold today combined with the economic anxiety of a lot of young consumers, if lower karat gold products once again dominate the commercial markets in the US. New technologies have created new alloys that have better properties for durability, malleability and even color.

So many questions - What do YOU all think?

 

[Karl_K]

A huge percentage of the Platinum market was industrial and automotive. They lost those markets by being too expensive.
It became cheaper to do the r&d on replacements.

The same is happening with gold(r&d to reduce or replace) but since gold prices are mostly speculation with little basis in reality it will be interesting to see what happens with pricing.

 

[Tonks]

I love white metals so the idea that either platinum or white gold might come back in style is all very exciting. We’ve had yellow gold everywhere for ages!

I have noticed that many vendors still charge more for platinum. My recollection is that the reasoning is platinum being more difficult to work with. Would love to know more about this and why platinum is more difficult.

As to why you might choose white gold over platinum if platinum is currently trading for less….the aforementioned vendor markup on platinum might mean platinum still costs more. Weight. Platinum can be very heavy, and for something like earrings, white gold can be lighter. Patina. Depending on the platinum alloy, platinum can develop a patina (my understanding is that 90/10 platinum/iridium patinas more than 95/5 platinum ruthenium but please correct if needed). Not everyone likes this and some prefer the super shiny rhodium finish you get on white gold. (Note: I like both). Finally, durability. Especially with regard to bracelets, we have had vendors recommend white gold over platinum. Something to do with white gold being better able to absorb frequent knocks? Tagging @Wink here because I think he was the one who explained it.

 

[OboeGal]

I love white metals so the idea that either platinum or white gold might come back in style is all very exciting. We’ve had yellow gold everywhere for ages!

I have noticed that many vendors still charge more for platinum. My recollection is that the reasoning is platinum being more difficult to work with. Would love to know more about this and why platinum is more difficult.

As to why you might choose white gold over platinum if platinum is currently trading for less….the aforementioned vendor markup on platinum might mean platinum still costs more. Weight. Platinum can be very heavy, and for something like earrings, white gold can be lighter. Patina. Depending on the platinum alloy, platinum can develop a patina (my understanding is that 90/10 platinum/iridium patinas more than 95/5 platinum ruthenium but please correct if needed). Not everyone likes this and some prefer the super shiny rhodium finish you get on white gold. (Note: I like both). Finally, durability. Especially with regard to bracelets, we have had vendors recommend white gold over platinum. Something to do with white gold being better able to absorb frequent knocks? Tagging @Wink here because I think he was the one who explained it.

This is what I've seen as well. Whenever I've considered doing a piece (or just prongs) in white metal, I would prefer platinum for it's various properties and to avoid the constant "redipping," but as recently as last week, I didn't see any vendors who weren't still charging more for it - sometimes quite a bit more. If I were in a different position financially, I would still go for it as I'm someone that can't stand to have to fuss too much with maintaining my pieces any more than is absolutely necessary, but I'm not, so I can't, and I know that I'm not alone there. I did replace the white gold prongs in my original engagement ring with platinum despite the cost, after nearly losing the stone due to so much wear of the original prongs, and am seriously happy that I did. That was eight years ago, and the prongs still look white and have held up well. So for me, I'm still doing mostly white gold, but not due to any preferences other than hard economics.

The same applies to 10k instead of 14k and 18k. I've now bought some pieces in 10k yellow and rose gold to "test the waters," and I just don't see enough difference between them and 14k to spend money I can't really spare on 14k, and I don't care for how bright yellow 18k yellow is. (I do like the softness of 18k rose gold as opposed to the slightly more "coppery" tones of 10k and 14k, but it's not enough of a preference to spend 18k money.) I've not had any kinds of adverse skin reactions to the 10k, and the durability has been fine, so I will continue to go with 10k whenever possible, and that just might influence my choice of vendor. Again, in the current economic climate, I know I'm not alone there, so I really wish that mid-level and higher-end vendors would be willing to consider making it easy to choose settings in 10k beyond just stock Stuller settings, such as by making that a choice on the order page on the website, right next to the 14k, 18k, and platinum options.

 

[glitterata]

I've always disliked the color and feel of white gold. If I didn't want to pay for platinum, I used silver, which has a storied past as THE precious white metal. Now that white gold costs more than platinum, all the more reason for me to avoid it.

 

[MissGotRocks]

So funny - for all the years I have been on PS, there were always rumblings of yellow gold making a comeback. We saw few engagement rings, however, made in yellow gold. In the last couple of years, yellow gold has finally seemed to arrive! For some of us, the love of yellow gold may be generational. We have seen folks get new diamonds or resets that switched from yellow gold to white or platinum. Seemed more on trend and maybe they were ready for a change. I love the richness of yellow gold and always have - particularly the contrast of a beautiful white diamond set in yellow gold. Platinum for prongs is a must and I had my studs set in platinum to avoid any allergic reaction. Weight was not an issue for me in a simple four prong stud. I prefer the look of white gold to platinum as I don’t care for the platinum patina. Platinum can also add weight and to say a bracelet, and that might be a deciding factor to go with white gold. Platinum probably has the same feel of forever as does yellow gold.
Bottom line for me I guess is that it depends on the piece of jewelry!

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

I think it’s the Indian in me, but I just can’t fathom jewelry in any other metal other than 18kt gold (22kt if we’re talking traditional jewelry!), whatever the colour - white, pink or yellow. I’ve never been a platinum fan - I don’t like the greyish colour.

The wild upswing in gold prices is upsetting of course, but it doesn’t entice me towards platinum either. I just think twice or thrice before I go ahead and get something made

 

[Dreamer_D]

I would like a cheaper option than any of these typical metals! The price of settings is killing me. Someone make 10k gold popular. Or make a less expensive platinum alloy.

 

[dk168]

I only wear white metals.

For my nicer pieces with diamonds, I had them made in Platinum.

For my nicer CSs, I used 14K WG.

For the lesser CSs and lab CSs, I would use Rhodium-plated silver to keep the cost down.

DK

 

[Mreader]

I love the weight of platinum and the color and how it develops patina.

 

[HollyC]

Interesting topic. I read this recently.

 

[Lookinagain]

I actually prefer 14k yellow on my skin tone. But I have 18k yellow, 14k and 18k white and platinum pieces, as well as 14k rose. I have only ever used platinum for rings though. Not earrings or necklaces. Not sure why. I've also never really had an issue with needing to replate white gold. Perhaps b/c DK has made most of my pieces and his white gold doesn't seem to need replating. It is interesting to me, though, that now platinum is cheaper, but that we may not see that in jewelry prices. I'm not sure how that will affect my choices, if at all, as I didn't realize that was happening until reading @Texas Leaguer's post.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

I would rather have WG in pieces with smooth metal because I am not a fan of platinum patina. Engraved pieces don’t matter so much. A jeweler recently told me that platinum is more durable, so there might be a few upcoming pieces where durability matters so I might go with platinum.

For me, in YG, 10k vs 14k vs 18k is a matter of aesthetics; but in rhodium plated WG, the only difference is the weight so unless I want a heavy feel, for WG I almost always go for the 10k option.

I would be more likely to buy more stones sooner if there were 10k and silver setting options.

 

[Tonks]

Aha! Found the thread I was thinking about. Worth a read.

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...num-for-earring-and-bracelet-settings.261373/

 

[WillyDiamond]

Brian, I think you hit the nail on the head!
Is WF going to change their price structure and now make WG/YG the higher cost vs. plat? Looking at a WF setting, says add $300 for plat.

 

[Bron357]

Love white metal but never been a fan of platinum. I don’t like the grayish colour. I have 18ct white gold that is rhodium plated. Sure it needs re plating each year but I love the whiteness of it.
In yellow gold I like 9ct or 14ct. I find higher carat yellow gold too yellow.
I also love 9ct rose gold, especially antique pieces.

 

[Pomelo]

Very interesting discussion, thank you @Texas Leaguer for starting it!

With the drop in platinum price, I was also thinking whether the jewellery houses will start using it more? We’re used to seeing the likes of Cartier, VCA etc charging a bit more for WG than YG, and only using platinum in HJ.

After all, if they can make bigger profit margins with a switch to platinum, then it might be worth considering…

 

[pancake]

For me the question or 18K WG vs platinum, now the price is so similar, is a no-brainer - platinum please! The only reason I have 18K WG pieces is a) vintage/secondhand and was already that way; b) pieces I had made several years ago when plat was significantly more expensive, or C) earrings (weight).

I would, however, like to see argentium silver more widely available as an alternative, particularly now that I'm having pieces made with LGD - seems a bit silly to have a party piece made where the stone costs peanuts compared to the metal... (Not that it's stopped me so far though haha!)

 

[Mreader]

As somebody mentioned above, platinum still tends to cost more and I was always told because it was more difficult to work with, and I’m curious about that and what you guys think. @Texas Leaguer @Karl_K @Rockdiamond

 

[AprilBaby]

Yellow gold is my go to, especially 18 kt. White gold and platinum make my skin tone look green. People say yg is in right now but I still have a hard time buying as most places only carry white. Look for example at online sites, many bracelets and eternities give only a white gold option. I have to special ask for yg. Platinum to me is my worst choice for my skin tone.

 

[Karl_K]

As somebody mentioned above, platinum still tends to cost more and I was always told because it was more difficult to work with, and I’m curious about that and what you guys think. @Texas Leaguer @Karl_K @Rockdiamond

Yes and no.
Casting 950ru takes very expensive filtration systems and is often outsourced to a casting company.
Many gold alloys can be cast anywhere.

I have heard the story of plat being harder to work with for decades but from conversations with people who do the actual work many prefer working with plat.
White gold has its own issues that can make it a pain compared to yellow gold.

The biggest thing about plat is its a bit of a different skill set than gold. This plays a part in its reputation as someone used to working with gold only for 20 years will grumble about the learning curve.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

Yes and no.
Casting 950ru takes very expensive filtration systems and is often outsourced to a casting company.
Many gold alloys can be cast anywhere.

I have heard the story of plat being harder to work with for decades but from conversations with people who do the actual work many prefer working with plat.
White gold has its own issues that can make it a pain compared to yellow gold.

The biggest thing about plat is its a bit of a different skill set than gold. This plays a part in its reputation as someone used to working with gold only for 20 years will grumble about the learning curve.

There's a lot of truth in this post!

 

[Texas Leaguer]

As somebody mentioned above, platinum still tends to cost more and I was always told because it was more difficult to work with, and I’m curious about that and what you guys think. @Texas Leaguer @Karl_K @Rockdiamond

Our jewelers very much like to work in platinum. When we have issues with the metal itself, it is usually with a gold alloy, such as porosity in rose gold. @Karl_K made good points about the skillset required for working in platinum which is somewhat different than gold alloys. But we have traditionally sold a lot of platinum pieces and our jewelers have been with us a long time. Our head jeweler passed 15 years at Whiteflash some time back.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

Brian, I think you hit the nail on the head!
Is WF going to change their price structure and now make WG/YG the higher cost vs. plat? Looking at a WF setting, says add $300 for plat.

It really depends on the piece. A lot of what we offer are designer brand pieces and the pricing is set by the designer. In some cases the price in platinum is less than in 18k gold, such as this plain wedding band.

 

[Lisa Loves Shiny]

Platinum is my favorite followed by white gold. I think it's because my heart always speeds up when I see gorgeous art deco pieces that were largely created in white metal.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

Platinum is my favorite followed by white gold. I think it's because my heart always speeds up when I see gorgeous art deco pieces that were largely created in white metal.

Platinum has what seem to be conflicting properties; it is very durable yet not very hard (compared to gold alloys). Most people find that puzzling, including me. But when you look at antique pieces made in platinum, many of which feature intricate design work, and you see how intact the pieces are after many, many decades, it starts to make sense. Platinum does not wear out the same way gold alloys tend to do over long time horizons.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

I would like a cheaper option than any of these typical metals! The price of settings is killing me. Someone make 10k gold popular. Or make a less expensive platinum alloy.

It does seem to me that present conditions would favor innovation in lower karat gold alloys.
Especially for fashion jewely, considering the popularity of lab grown diamonds and their affordability.

 

[Karl_K]

I would like to see one of the plat/silver alloys take off.
The problem is what to call them at under 50% Plat and in some alloys 25% calling them Plat has legal issues and calling them silver makes it hard to charge enough to be profitable.

edit.. not talking about Platinum Sterling Silver

 

[Dreamer_D]

Are there 10k white gold alloys that don’t need plating?

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

My local jeweler doesn't work with platimum, he says it's a very toxic metal.
My first diamond ring is a platinum anniversary ring, and a friend remarked, "They don't put junk in platinum." Very reassuring to a novice.