Jeweler recommendations for setting paraiba in SF Bay Area? (Or who work through mail?)

[SillyMonkee]

I had a vision... and the vision is turning out way more expensive than initially planned, but I'm committed now...

I have an antique 18 ct setting and a paraiba that I want to set in it (bezeled). I've spoken to three local jewelers and gotten quotes that range from $300 - $650 to remove the current garnet, create a new bezel for the (included, with one chip on the girdle) paraiba and marry the two. But: none of these jewelers seems to have worked with paraiba before, they've commented on how soft tourmaline is, and generally just seem mildly scared of the project. So: am desperately hoping that maybe a friendly Pricescoper has set a paraiba locally and can recommend their jeweler... or has worked with a jeweler through mail at this rough price point?

I recognize that I'm making this difficult on myself by wanting a bezel rather than using prong set, given the chip on the girdle, but I'm hoping I can find someone who has worked with paraiba before and isn't so flummoxed by the material.

 

[LilAlex]

Does Lang do custom work? Or is their bench just for in-house stuff...?

 

[voce]

Even Cecile Raley Designs, who do a lot of work with paraiba, does not recommend bezeling paraiba. Unless you're willing to not hold the bench accountable if the paraiba breaks, I can think of no jeweler willing to take on the liability of setting an outside paraiba, especially considering you're also not doing a custom setting. It's too much liability for too little profit.

Is your 18k antique setting yellow gold? Only yellow gold is a soft enough metal to even considering bezeling a fragile stone like paraiba. Paraiba is really not the stone to force fit into any old setting.

If you must use your existing setting, I'd suggest you go with YAG paraiba color, as YAG has a Moh's hardness of 9.5 and will be much easier to set without breaking.

Keep in mind, setters who have worked in high jewelry houses have described setting paraiba like setting soap bubbles. They are the ones with plenty of experience in setting paraiba. I think it's a gamble to go with someone with no experience.

 

[minousbijoux]

Joe Escobar Diamonds in Campbell is a high end jeweler who specializes in colored stones and seems to set a good amount of Paraiba tourmalines. I don't know whether they would accept and outside stone and setting to be set, but its worth a shot. They are on the stickied vendors list, above.

 

[Mrs_Strizzle]

I had David Klass bezel my "Paraiba" (I know it isn't the most neon, but the GIA did call it that) in an antique platinum and diamond watch bracelet. I would reach out to them. They are in So Cal, and I'm in the south east so all done thru mail.

 

[JackTrick]

I worked with Mansoor Jewelers (specifically Chuck Nash) in Palo alto to flush bezel set a paraiba and a diamond. They did a lovely job, and the paraiba was quite included. Noting, this was a full custom job that also used gold and a diamond from a family piece.

 

[Sprinkles&Stones]

I worked with Mansoor Jewelers (specifically Chuck Nash) in Palo alto to flush bezel set a paraiba and a diamond. They did a lovely job.

Wow this is gorgeous! I love it!

 

[bludiva]

I would think you could get a bezel made w 22k which is really soft

 

[voce]

I would think you could get a bezel made w 22k which is really soft

I would think so, too, but it would probably not work well with the OP's 18k setting OP wants to modify to add the bezel. It's not easy to weld two types of metal together, and 18k gold would be a different type of metal imo from 22k gold.

 

[SillyMonkee]

Sorry for the late response but thank you all for your replies! It seemed like I had seen lots of bezeled paraiba examples, but perhaps I was only seeing what I wanted to see. @JackTrick oh my word your ring is gorgeous and @Mrs_Strizzle that bracelet is to die for. @voce, I really appreciate your experience and advice; really gives me a lot to think about (and yes, the setting is yellow gold).

 

[JewelledEscalators]

I worked with Mansoor Jewelers (specifically Chuck Nash) in Palo alto to flush bezel set a paraiba and a diamond. They did a lovely job, and the paraiba was quite included. Noting, this was a full custom job that also used gold and a diamond from a family piece.

OMG, that's the perfect swimming colour blue - gorgeous!!

 

[JewelledEscalators]

*swimming pool colour blue

 

[JewelledEscalators]

I had David Klass bezel my "Paraiba" (I know it isn't the most neon, but the GIA did call it that) in an antique platinum and diamond watch bracelet. I would reach out to them. They are in So Cal, and I'm in the south east so all done thru mail.

Very elegant design - really compliments the colour of the stone!

 

[Mrs_Strizzle]

Very elegant design - really compliments the colour of the stone!

Thank you! It really was fate, as I owned the tourmaline years and years when I won the auction on eBay for the broken watch that turned out to fit my smallish wrist too!

 

[JewelledEscalators]

Thank you! It really was fate, as I owned the tourmaline years and years when I won the auction on eBay for the broken watch that turned out to fit my smallish wrist too!

Wow, that's great - what a good idea!

 

[Ionysis]

Sorry I live in the Middle East so can’t help with a bench for you BUT I also have a Paraiba, with a chip in the girdle, and I had it bezelled. No issues.

 

[CSpan]

My gem stone journey started with the patient mentoring of Bill McConnell at the Kings Jewelers in walnut Creek. His child now own this 3rd or 4th gen. Business. They did exquisite work, were located in an office building so lower over head and had a great bench. I haven't been back in years but follow them online and they appear to be consistent to what I saw

 

[GemmaBella]

DanielM jewelers on Etsy bezel set my paraiba and did an awesome job. The metal he used was 18k yellow. I agree David Klass is another fine option. I have had plenty of work done by both and they are both very experienced.