Jeweller for Tanzanite setting???

[JulieA]

I have the opportunity to purchase a high quaility tanzanite gem approx. 3 ct and want to put it in a ring. I have been told tanzanite is a bit trickier to set than a diamond. Any recommendations of custom jewelers? I can have it set by the guy I purchased from since he has expereince working with these stones, but I want to have some other options.

Thanks!

 

[chrono]

I would be very careful in having a Tanz in a ring. It''s a lot softer than sapphires and can get chipped easily. Either bezel it or don''t wear it as an everyday ring.

 

[JulieA]

Yes- this is what I have been told. I have a nice opal ring that I wear for special times. I guess the tanzanite will be the same. Any ideas for who to use for setting?

 

[chrono]

What is the shape and dimensions of the tanzanite? WG/PT?

For custom, I have used:
Quest and Wink
I've also bought from Pearlman's
I've heard good things about Knox, Good Old Gold, WhiteFlash, James Allen and Engagement Rings Direct.

 

[JulieA]

Going with cushin cut- about 3 ct. I have been doing research on PS for diamond settings and are familiar with the names you suggested, but i am wondering if I need to find someone who has specific experience with tanzanite? I read somewhere they are much more delicate to set do to heat sensitivity, etc. Via this website the only exaples I have seen are with richard Krementz and I don''t know if they set custom or only use their own stones.

 

[marcy]

Hi JulieA,

I don''t have any recommendations, I have good luck with a local jeweler. I am just anxious to see your finished product. A 3 ct. tanzanite, wow!

Marcy

 

[Richard M.]

Date: 6/25/2007 11:41:28 AM
Author: Chrono
I would be very careful in having a Tanz in a ring. It''s a lot softer than sapphires and can get chipped easily. Either bezel it or don''t wear it as an everyday ring.

I''m a goldsmith and I often hear it said that bezeling protects against stone chipping. Could you explain that concept to me? Certainly a bezel can protect a stone''s girdle -- if it doesn''t get damaged while hammering the bezel down. But how does bezeling protect a gem''s crown facets, which are the most vulnerable areas of a stone during wear as a ring?

Richard M.

 

[chrono]

Richard,
You are correct; I did not explain myself clearly. Bezeling will only protect the girdle (provided it makes it through the hammering process). It does nothing to protect the crown facets, hence the often heard recommendation to have tanzanite in a pendant where there is less risk of damage.

 

[twodoor2]

I agree, tanzanite should only be worn as a pendant or earrings, never in a bracelet or ring. Even if you are super careful, you will get lots of microchips around the facet edges. It''s not only softer than other popular colored gems, but it''s fragile gem. Some gems are just as soft, but can take wear better.

 

[JulieA]

Thanks for all the info. I have seen so many beautiful tanzanite rings, bummer. ARe certain tanzanite cuts less prone to damage? I found a link on PS to someone''s oval tanzanite ring and just loved it. wondering how her ring is holding up? She has not posted for a long time. Here is the picture.

 

[chrono]

Is that MustangFan's ring?

ETA
No, but they look similar. Whose is it? Is it an ER or RHR, I wonder?

 

[JulieA]

I found this on a tanzanite link- i believe it is a RHR for someone with screen name AGBF.

Also found link to jewelryexpert.com from PS and they have tons of beautiful work with tanzanite rings. I emailed them to ask opinion about settings, fragile, etc and waiting to hear back. If anyone knows AGBF- ask her how her ring is doing! I own a large opal birthstone ring that i have had since i was 16 and it seems fine. If I am safe with this- I should be ok with tanzanite ring, right???

 

[jstarfireb]

I have lots of tanzanite in rings, but I just don''t wear them every day. Mine aren''t the greatest stones, and they''re nowhere close to 3ct. In general, I''m not averse to putting tanzanite in a ring...jewelry is meant to be adored by the owner as well as others, and you don''t need a mirror to look at rings. BUT with such an amazing stone like the one you might get, I''d want to preserve it as much as possible. A pendant would be stunning.

What shape is it? Some of the Photoshop geniuses around here can probably design some fabulous settings for you...

 

[jstarfireb]

Date: 6/26/2007 10:55:50 AM
Author: JulieA
Are certain tanzanite cuts less prone to damage?

In general, any stone with a sharp corner, such as princess, pear, marquise, trillion, etc., runs the risk of having the corner chip off. I would think a round or oval tanzanite would be the safest, although all tanzanite stones will be prone to chipping of the facets, not just ones with corners.

 

[JulieA]

By the way- Richard- do you specialize with opals?? A guess from your screen pi. What do you think is best to clean my opal? It is in a yellow gold cathedral setting. 4 prongs and two tiny diamonds set much lower on either side. Now that I think about it- I can''t believe it is still alive. I am sure I banged the heck out of it when I was 16! I have used hagerty jewel cleaner that says it is safe for porous stones since no bleach, ammonia, etc. in it. Anyone recommend other??

 

[twodoor2]

Date: 6/26/2007 11:59:12 AM
Author: jstarfireb
I have lots of tanzanite in rings, but I just don''t wear them every day. Mine aren''t the greatest stones, and they''re nowhere close to 3ct. In general, I''m not averse to putting tanzanite in a ring...jewelry is meant to be adored by the owner as well as others, and you don''t need a mirror to look at rings. BUT with such an amazing stone like the one you might get, I''d want to preserve it as much as possible. A pendant would be stunning.

What shape is it? Some of the Photoshop geniuses around here can probably design some fabulous settings for you...

I have a tanzanite ring, and I was super careful with it, and so happy I didn''t chip it, however, when I took a loupe to it, I saw tons of microchips along the facet edges. Although many people may swear they have never chipped their tanzanite, it is prone to microchips, and I''ve heard this from gemologists before. It''s just something to take pause at. If you have an inexpensive tanzanite, I say put it in a ring if you want. However, with a fine colored one, I would never ever put it in a ring. Although no one could see the microchips with the naked eye, but it was very disturbing to see that with a loupe and even more disturbing if it were a very expensive stone. I have not purchased a tanzanite since that because I like rings, I''m not a pendant or earring person. If I were, I may consider one.

 

[Richard M.]

Date: 6/26/2007 12:11:40 PM
Author: JulieA
By the way- Richard- do you specialize with opals?? A guess from your screen pi. What do you think is best to clean my opal?

I love opals and have been cutting/selling them along with many other types of gems for many years. There''s no real trick to cleaning opals. There are three major things I know of that will damage quality Australian and Brazilian stones: hard knocks, ultrasonic cleaning machines and oily substances, including glycerine.

Body oils and oils from lotions and other cosmetics are the chief problem with keeping all gems shiny and at their best. I give opal jewelry and my wife''s other favorite jewelry a nightly soak in a solution of filtered water (distilled is best) with a couple of drops of liquid laundry -- not dish! -- detergent mixed in. A good rinse in the morning under warm (not super-hot) water, a wipe with a soft low-lint cloth, and they look great. Dish detergent leaves a film on stones and hard water can leave spots if not dried.

If you have built-up "stuff" on the bottom of stones in your jewelry, have it professionally cleaned. Then do as above and there won''t be any future problem.

Richard M.

 

[JulieA]

Thanks Richard for opal tips.

Ok- I need some more opinions of settings and prices. I went to a very well respected local jeweler who does a lot of custom pieces so I could actually try some stuff on. The work is very nice, but not sure if it is way more expensive, or similar to going to a LM or MM. I am attaching a bunch of their pics and we decided a combo of all of these rings would be great. (They actually have an amazing $25000 cushion sapphire set in the same way so I know it looks great and NOT engangement.

Here are the pics- I would be taking one part of each ring and putting them together. Also want to see if there quoted price seems reasonable or high. here goes...

For some reason I can only send one pic at a time so here is the first one. I would set the tanzanite like the pink stone at the top of the picture and would put shileds or traps on sides- something like they have shown. BUt now for more...

 

[JulieA]

Ok- next pic... Instead of just leaving it as a 3 stone ring, but not going as big as a huge five stone- next to the side stone they would put a very delicate diamond like the one seen in this pic. remember- I am not going with a halo like they show on this second ring, just copying that little side detail and that little metal detail on a very delicate band. but then there is more...

 

[JulieA]

ok- now for the final part... on the band instead of just leaving it metal like the one you see in this second pic- they could do a micro pave all the way around the top of the band. This is a picute of a pave band they do, but not exactly alike becuase the band they showed me had very delicate tiny tiny diamonds that almost look like they sit not on the full width of band, but just in a very narrow section in the middle of the band where it looks like on the second picture band there is a center ridge arounnd the band. I hope this all makes sense!

 

[JulieA]

Soooo- like I said, I saw this exact same setting on a sapphire and it was very classy and delicate for a larger stone and did not look anything like an engagment ring. What do you guys think and what type of price do you think I should pay for the work? I will say the micro pave look amazing and, of course, they said if any stone came out they would replace it immediately at no charge. They do tons of micro pave so I know it is one of their speciaties. AND I said originally I did not want pave! Another thing with the price- they said they could get me the side stone traps, shields, or half moons- whatever I decided. BUT, they said that I should probably get those two stones on my own because I would be able to get a better price on a good internet site or in the jewelry district. So they would do the setting and all the other tiny diamonds. WHAT should something like this cost??? 2k? 4k? 6K? Any ideas what lm or MM 3 stones settings cost with workmanship, etc? Are their setting prices including the side stones- or is this always cost $$ in addition to just the design and workmanship for the setting?

 

[twodoor2]

This setting cost me around $1100, I found it at my local B&M store already made to fit a 5mm stone. Your stone shouldn't be too hard to find a premade setting for, I don't think it should cost more than $2000 unless you went to a place that really marked up. My ring has 84 points in diamonds and is 18K white gold.

 

[twodoor2]

A front to side view

 

[JulieA]

The detail of your ring is beautiful. I thought 5 grand seemed like too much. In fact- I contacted Leon Mege and he can do an amazing custom setting with pave on band for under 3,000 so clearly no reason to spend 5k. Glad I asked! Thanks. This is the pic of what Leon could do for 1/2 price of my local place...

 

[JulieA]

AMazing setting with beautiful work for 1/2 price.

 

[twodoor2]

How many diamonds and how big? You could probably get a Tacori setting for $3000. However, now we''re entering the realm of diamonds and jewelry, not sure if we can discuss in colored gemstones. That still seems a bit steep, but I''m just really into bargain hunting. When I saw that ring for $1100, and the quality, engraving and detail was so much better than Tacori (the store also sells Tacori so I could compare), I grabbed it.