Looking for advice on ruby ring

[CircularBrilliant]

Hello, I have been on the hunt for a ruby ring, and am hoping to get advice on one I purchased -- it is returnable, and I am debating whether I want to keep it. It is a preloved piece from Carvin French (love their maker's mark!), and cost a bit over $16k before taxes. The ring itself is lovely, with very sparkly sidestones and good heft to it. The ruby has an old AGL prestige report (from 2014) stating that it is 2.24 cts, burmese, low heat only (I called AGL and they confirmed the report, but recommended sending the ring in for a new report if I keep it). The color is lovely and the stone really glows in sunlight, but it is more included than I had hoped and doesn't really sparkle. I'm new to rubies, so was hoping to get feedback from people with more expertise. I have a vintage lab ruby that I think is gorgeous, and this stone is less lively, but glows just as nicely and is a more saturated pure red (with a bit of blue, compared to the bit of pink of the lab ruby). It's a lot of money, and I'm just not sure. I understand rubies are very costly and a perfect natural ruby is not within my budget, so I'm wondering if this is sort of as good as it gets in this size range (I wouldn't want to spend more than $15k on a stone alone, and want either unheated or low heat only). I've included pictures in different lighting below (lab ruby on index finger, Carvin French on middle). Thank you!

 

[JewelledEscalators]

Hello, I have been on the hunt for a ruby ring, and am hoping to get advice on one I purchased -- it is returnable, and I am debating whether I want to keep it. It is a preloved piece from Carvin French (love their maker's mark!), and cost a bit over $16k before taxes. The ring itself is lovely, with very sparkly sidestones and good heft to it. The ruby has an old AGL prestige report (from 2014) stating that it is 2.24 cts, burmese, low heat only (I called AGL and they confirmed the report, but recommended sending the ring in for a new report if I keep it). The color is lovely and the stone really glows in sunlight, but it is more included than I had hoped and doesn't really sparkle. I'm new to rubies, so was hoping to get feedback from people with more expertise. I have a vintage lab ruby that I think is gorgeous, and this stone is less lively, but glows just as nicely and is a more saturated pure red (with a bit of blue, compared to the bit of pink of the lab ruby). It's a lot of money, and I'm just not sure. I understand rubies are very costly and a perfect natural ruby is not within my budget, so I'm wondering if this is sort of as good as it gets in this size range (I wouldn't want to spend more than $15k on a stone alone, and want either unheated or low heat only). I've included pictures in different lighting below (lab ruby on index finger, Carvin French on middle). Thank you!

Love both rings. Where was the lab ruby from? I think the natural ruby is reasonably clean for a ruby.

Generally, I don't associate rubies so much with sparkle, at least not the red ones, as they tend to be quite included compared to pink sapphires or spinels.

Not sure if 'low heat' is necessarily any better than any other heated rubies, but maybe someone else can weigh in on that.

I really like the colour of the 16k one. Gorgeous.

 

[MjK1]

I have no advice, but both are stunners! How old is that lab ruby? I love it! My labs are sparkle bombs, that is more subtle...truly lovely...

 

[CircularBrilliant]

Love both rings. Where was the lab ruby from? I think the natural ruby is reasonably clean for a ruby.

Generally, I don't associate rubies so much with sparkle, at least not the red ones, as they tend to be quite included compared to pink sapphires or spinels.

Not sure if 'low heat' is necessarily any better than any other heated rubies, but maybe someone else can weigh in on that.

I really like the colour of the 16k one. Gorgeous.

Thanks! The lab ruby was from an etsy seller, and was sold to me as being nearly 100 years old. I am amazed that they were making stones like this back then! The ring is lovely, but I had a mixed experience with the seller so wouldn't feel comfortable recommending them :-/

 

[CircularBrilliant]

I have no advice, but both are stunners! How old is that lab ruby? I love it! My labs are sparkle bombs, that is more subtle...truly lovely...

Thank you! Seller claimed the ring was made in 1932. I love the color too--it is much more of a red-red than the pinkish lab rubies I have seen more often

 

[Mrs_Strizzle]

I'm not a ruby expert, but I think that ring is TDF! If I had the $ to invest in a ruby, I would be in love with this one.

 

[CircularBrilliant]

I'm not a ruby expert, but I think that ring is TDF! If I had the $ to invest in a ruby, I would be in love with this one.

Thanks! I do find it lovely, but haven't had the opportunity to really play with fine rubies in person, so I don't have a good sense of whether it's a keeper/whether I can do better for my budget...

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Not an expert either, just a lover!
Rubies are prized for their glow, rarity and color, less their sparkle. A spinel would get you the sparkle factor you're looking for- but a spinel isn't a ruby, therefore not as coveted and doesn't command the same prices.
I personally love spinel the best because of it's added sparkle!
That being said your ruby is a beautiful ring, relatively good clarity with amazing color and has that *glow*. The only thing I'd want to know about is if the inclusions effected stability in any way. As long as that's not a factor, inclusions are common. Hopefully someone knows more about pricing, but I wasn't shocked about what they're asking for it. Seems in line for the material.

 

[emeraldhummingbird]

I'm not familiar with ruby pricing but that is one beautiful ruby!!!

 

[CircularBrilliant]

Not an expert either, just a lover!
Rubies are prized for their glow, rarity and color, less their sparkle. A spinel would get you the sparkle factor you're looking for- but a spinel isn't a ruby, therefore not as coveted and doesn't command the same prices.
I personally love spinel the best because of it's added sparkle!
That being said your ruby is a beautiful ring, relatively good clarity with amazing color and has that *glow*. The only thing I'd want to know about is if the inclusions effected stability in any way. As long as that's not a factor, inclusions are common. Hopefully someone knows more about pricing, but I wasn't shocked about what they're asking for it. Seems in line for the material.

I'm not familiar with ruby pricing but that is one beautiful ruby!!!

Thank you both! It is beautiful, but at this price, it would have to be my only ruby purchase for a very long time (maybe ever), so I want to make sure I get it right...

 

[Bron357]

Rubies are expensive.
the price of top quality rubies will make your eyes water, badly.
Size aside, Rubies are sold mostly on their origin and colour.
Origin matters to most because Burmese rubies are revered for their colour and glow.
Like all things, origin alone isn’t a guarantee of top quality, many of the new source of Burmese rubies arent top quality and rubies from Madagascar can be superb yet people still fall to their knees and start worshipping once the word Burmese is mentioned.
Buy what you love, not the label. If resale value is important, yes origin will matter and so too will the colour label given by a well regarded lab. Ideally you would want unheated, however that combined with Burmese origin, top colour and over 2 carats - that is a whole other realm and price.
The other issue with rubies is availability. While you can find heaps of blue corundum (sapphire) red corundum (Ruby) is rare.
As you will have noticed, there isn’t 40 or more 2 carat Burmese rubies to browse, compare and consider.
Are the side stones diamonds?
If yes, Id say $16K was a fair price however $16K is too much to pay for a ring that doesn’t take your breath away.
Maybe you need to spend $40,000 to get the size, colour, glow and light return that captures your heart?
I’d give the ruby alone a value of around $13,000 (leave aside the setting and diamonds).
How much was the lab ruby (very nice one btw) ?
Do you think the $13k ruby is “X many times” more beautiful, more appealing to you than the lab one?
Will you get $16k worth of enjoyment out of it?

 

[CircularBrilliant]

Rubies are expensive.
the price of top quality rubies will make your eyes water, badly.
Size aside, Rubies are sold mostly on their origin and colour.
Origin matters to most because Burmese rubies are revered for their colour and glow.
Like all things, origin alone isn’t a guarantee of top quality, many of the new source of Burmese rubies arent top quality and rubies from Madagascar can be superb yet people still fall to their knees and start worshipping once the word Burmese is mentioned.
Buy what you love, not the label. If resale value is important, yes origin will matter and so too will the colour label given by a well regarded lab. Ideally you would want unheated, however that combined with Burmese origin, top colour and over 2 carats - that is a whole other realm and price.
The other issue with rubies is availability. While you can find heaps of blue corundum (sapphire) red corundum (Ruby) is rare.
As you will have noticed, there isn’t 40 or more 2 carat Burmese rubies to browse, compare and consider.
Are the side stones diamonds?
If yes, Id say $16K was a fair price however $16K is too much to pay for a ring that doesn’t take your breath away.
Maybe you need to spend $40,000 to get the size, colour, glow and light return that captures your heart?
I’d give the ruby alone a value of around $13,000 (leave aside the setting and diamonds).
How much was the lab ruby (very nice one btw) ?
Do you think the $13k ruby is “X many times” more beautiful, more appealing to you than the lab one?
Will you get $16k worth of enjoyment out of it?

Thank you, Bron! I always appreciate getting your expert take.

The sidestones are diamonds -- they're uncerted, but the seller said they were 0.64 and 0.63 cushions. They sparkle a ton, and looked good under my loupe and ASET scope.

The lab ruby ring was about $500, and I do love it, but it feels like fun jewelry to me. That being said, the $16k ring does not take my breath away nor can I imagine getting 26x the joy out of it, and now I wonder if you're right that it might take multiples of my budget to find a ruby that does that :-/ On the other hand, the scarcity you mentioned is what I've found in my search, so I am also battling FOMO on this one -- like what if I send it back, and will never have the budget to get any better?

 

[qubitasaurus]

Yes that's a good price. Alone the daimonds, setting and lab report probably cant be replicated for less than 3.5 k. That makes the ruby quite well priced. If you want comparisons go flick through gemfix.

I'd just take a uv pen light and check it was flourescent. And also take a look through a loupe at the inclusions (note you need a loupe with a light in it. Or alternatively a small flashlight to use at the same time. Otherwise you wont see too far in a stone that included). The advice to send it back to the lab is pretty sound -- prestige reports arent cheap though so this will add a little.

 

[peacechick]

Rubies are typically included. A ruby with high clarity is rare, and a 2 ct ruby with high clarity is even rarer. I haven’t seen anyone with a ruby ring like that here so I have no idea what kind of tier we’re talking about here.

I think your ruby looks very good. It glows like an ember in the sun I’m sure. I’m sure having a Burmese origin enhances its value. All that being said, you do have to love it. Maybe a ruby isn’t really what makes your heart sing and you would be happier with a very well cut sparkling rubellite tourmaline? I’d suggest red spinel but those are often pretty included too.

 

[CircularBrilliant]

Yes that's a good price. Alone the daimonds, setting and lab report probably cant be replicated for less than 3.5 k. That makes the ruby quite well priced. If you want comparisons go flick through gemfix.

I'd just take a uv pen light and check it was flourescent. And also take a look through a loupe at the inclusions (note you need a loupe with a light in it. Or alternatively a small flashlight to use at the same time. Otherwise you wont see too far in a stone that included). The advice to send it back to the lab is pretty sound -- prestige reports arent cheap though so this will add a little.

Thanks! Both rings fluoresce nicely, which I assume is responsible for the nice glow:


My loupe is just a basic 10x with no light, but it seems like it's pretty easy to see through the stone. What I see IRL is consistent with the most zoomed in picture from my original post.

 

[CircularBrilliant]

Rubies are typically included. A ruby with high clarity is rare, and a 2 ct ruby with high clarity is even rarer. I haven’t seen anyone with a ruby ring like that here so I have no idea what kind of tier we’re talking about here.

I think your ruby looks very good. It glows like an ember in the sun I’m sure. I’m sure having a Burmese origin enhances its value. All that being said, you do have to love it. Maybe a ruby isn’t really what makes your heart sing and you would be happier with a very well cut sparkling rubellite tourmaline? I’d suggest red spinel but those are often pretty included too.

Thanks! Haha I am sure there are rubies that would make my heart sing, but my bank account would never tolerate me owning one :-p

 

[icy_jade]

That being said, the $16k ring does not take my breath away

I think a $16k ring needs to make your heart sing. It looks lovely from your pics and everything but if it doesn’t make your heart sing when you see/wear it, then is it really worth it even if it’s a good value buy?

 

[CircularBrilliant]

I think a $16k ring needs to make your heart sing. It looks lovely from your pics and everything but if it doesn’t make your heart sing when you see/wear it, then is it really worth it even if it’s a good value buy?

Thanks -- I appreciate the advice and I know you're right. I'm so conflicted, because it is beautiful, but my lab ruby is too and it's so much more money I'm going to sleep on it and see how I feel tomorrow.

 

[Mreader]

I can’t offer expertise but just chiming in to say it’s beautiful and I love those big diamonds on each side!

 

[Laurainthesky]

I thought the ring was beautiful also, but you have to love it for 16K. Maybe better to start with a loose stone to fall in love with first? Many of these vendors will help you look if you say what you are looking for.

 

[Tayberry]

I'm really into the ruby's colour, shape and side stone proportions. You have lovely hands, is the ring for your middle finger? It's large, is it comfortable?

 

[CircularBrilliant]

I thought the ring was beautiful also, but you have to love it for 16K. Maybe better to start with a loose stone to fall in love with first? Many of these vendors will help you look if you say what you are looking for.

Thanks! I would definitely sacrifice the sidestones for ruby quality, but it seems like if my budget is 15k for the stone, I might not be able to do appreciably better (or at least not to the point of being truly wowed by the stone) :-/

 

[CircularBrilliant]

I'm really into the ruby's colour, shape and side stone proportions. You have lovely hands, is the ring for your middle finger? It's large, is it comfortable?

Thank you! The ring itself is great--it is well-made, fits nicely on my finger, and feels hefty in a good way. And although this is not a quality factor, as a cat lover, I appreciate the little cat that Carvin French uses for their mark--it is so cute

 

[Laurainthesky]

Do you absolutely need a natural ruby ring? Is it an emergency? I don't understand buying something you only tolerate.

 

[Laurainthesky]

I went through something a little similar with alexandrite. For my budget, I would not be able to get a ring I would love wearing. I bought two color change garnets, a very special bicolor sapphire, a color change sapphire, and an emerald vintage ring with that money.

 

[CircularBrilliant]

Do you absolutely need a natural ruby ring? Is it an emergency? I don't understand buying something you only tolerate.

I went through something a little similar with alexandrite. For my budget, I would not be able to get a ring I would love wearing. I bought two color change garnets, a very special bicolor sapphire, a color change sapphire, and an emerald vintage ring with that money.

Thank you for sharing your experience! I wouldn't say I only tolerate it, but I am just not sure I love it enough. Ruby is the next thing on my wishlist, so I thought I would indulge in a nice ring. When I started looking, I knew I couldn't afford something crazy, but thought I still had a healthy budget. I didn't realize how quickly rubies escalate in price, but I recognize now that the "modest" piece I had in mind is not so modest. I may simply move away from the idea like you did. Are you happier having bought the other pieces rather than keep hunting for an alexandrite/saving for a bigger budget for one? Any lingering regrets?

 

[voce]

Thanks! I do find it lovely, but haven't had the opportunity to really play with fine rubies in person, so I don't have a good sense of whether it's a keeper/whether I can do better for my budget...

Considering that is not just the heated Burmese ruby, but also a pair of diamonds you're getting, this is indeed a very good price. I personally love the ring, but wholeheartedly agree that if you've not comfortable spending 16k, or of the ring doesn't make your heart sing and you don't plan on taking the ring apart, then it's not for you.

 

[CircularBrilliant]

Considering that is not just the heated Burmese ruby, but also a pair of diamonds you're getting, this is indeed a very good price. I personally love the ring, but wholeheartedly agree that if you've not comfortable spending 16k, or of the ring doesn't make your heart sing and you don't plan on taking the ring apart, then it's not for you.

Thanks, voce! I think strangely enough my hesitation is actually being caused by my lab piece. Having already found a pretty perfect lab piece for a tiny fraction of the cost makes me wonder if this is really how I want to spend so much money. On the other hand, I do feel like natural rubies are different kind of special, and this one is really beautiful.

 

[VividRed]

Nice rings! If I may add my two cents...

The color is pretty good and while it isn’t perfect, you will hardly find a better deal with this budget, even if the stone is heated.

Is it “as good as it gets”? No, you’d be looking at a completely different price range. In today’s market a fine, 2ct unheated Burmese ruby with AGL report and color 2.5-3/75, lightly/moderately included will easily retail at 30-35k+ per carat, if you can find one. Add 30-40% if you buy from a premium jewelry brand.

Say yours is a 4.0/80 and moderately (heavily? Hard to tell) included. That might be worth 10-12k per carat unheated. remove 30% for heat treatment. You get to 7-9k per carat or 14-18k for the ruby alone. My opinion: at 16k incl. ring and diamonds it’s a online retail price, but still a lot of money so you better love it before you buy it

have fun!

 

[Laurainthesky]

Thank you for sharing your experience! I wouldn't say I only tolerate it, but I am just not sure I love it enough. Ruby is the next thing on my wishlist, so I thought I would indulge in a nice ring. When I started looking, I knew I couldn't afford something crazy, but thought I still had a healthy budget. I didn't realize how quickly rubies escalate in price, but I recognize now that the "modest" piece I had in mind is not so modest. I may simply move away from the idea like you did. Are you happier having bought the other pieces rather than keep hunting for an alexandrite/saving for a bigger budget for one? Any lingering regrets?

I don't regret it. I also learned more about color changing gems that many only look good in very specific circumstances versus loving them in most lights. The garnets allow me to enjoy the same science phenomenon at a nice price point. I haven't received the emerald ring yet. It is going back if I don't absolutely love it. It is 3 carats in platinum and hundreds less than 0.50 ct alexandrite in a stock 14K setting that I would need sized and looks lifeless except in special light.
I don't need an alexandrite for the purpose just to have one. I love wearing rings and I do actively admire them throughout the day. If I don't lovingly stare at that emerald all day, it goes back.
I would stare lovingly at your ruby ring, although I think the diamonds take away from it. I think you may have an unrealistic ideation for a ruby. Their charm is color and glow. Perfect lab rubies don't have personality in my opinion just like white diamonds do not either (probably unpopular opinion).