My custom setting and honest opinions please

[Boom]

I’ve wanted a split shank halo for some time now, ever since seeing a couple of gorgeous ones in the 2009 Tiffany Blue Book. I purchased a gemstone which I then sent to my custom jeweler. I actually wavered for a while about the setting, but eventually decided to stick with my dream setting.

I sent the jeweler a photo of Harriet’s gorgeous spinel ring, stating that I wanted smaller diamonds in the halo than hers.

I also sent him a pic of the Tiffany rings I fell in love with, specifying that I wanted the halo to center stone proportion to be similar to those rings.

After waiting for several weeks, he sent me this photo of the completed ring. It looks different from what I envisioned. I’d appreciate your honest opinion of how the setting turned out.

 

[D&T]

its a gorgeous ring, I do see a slight airline, and I can''t really see the split shank part. The diamonds around the halo, maybe that was his smallest size melees that he had? have you seen any other pictures of it? from the profile?

 

[chrono]

Boom,

I see several differences:
1. There appears to be an airline whereas the Tiff ring doesn’t.
2. I barely see the split shank
3. The proportion of the melees in relation to the stone is larger than the Tiff ring.

 

[T L]

Boom,
The airline looks very obvious to me, like he used a mold he already had that was close to the fit of your stone, instead of custom making it specifically to fit your exact stone. I would be accepting of something like that in a cheap piece, but not something that was costly.

 

[metromom]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:23:28 AM
Author: Chrono
Boom,

I see several differences:
1. There appears to be an airline whereas the Tiff ring doesn’t.
2. I barely see the split shank
3. The proportion of the melees in relation to the stone is larger than the Tiff ring.

Ditto to both posts above. Correct me if I am wrong, but the Tiff rings look like the halo is bezeled instead of prong set. I see a definite airline in your completed setting.

 

[Boom]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:29:30 AM
Author: tourmaline_lover
Boom,

The airline looks very obvious to me, like he used a mold he already had that was close to the fit of your stone, instead of custom making it specifically to fit your exact stone. I would be accepting of something like that in a cheap piece, but not something that was costly.

Thank you D&T, Chrono, TL and metromom for your honest opinions.

TL pretty much nailed how I am feeling. I paid for a custom setting that doesn''t look like it was custom fit for my stone. I have another photo of the ring at an angle and the airline is wide enough that I can see the metal ring that goes around the stone.

As chrono pointed out, the proportion is out and the split shank can''t be seen from the front, but thse I could live with. It''s the airline that really bothers me. I talked to the jeweler and he said the airline was there because my stone was not a perfect oval?? He also said I did not say I didn''t want an airline. I could live with a little airline, but this one is substantial enough to change the whole look of the ring...

D&T - I''m sure it is possible to source for smaller melee, and if he couldn''t, shouldn''t he have let me know?

metromom - the Tiffany rings are bezel set. I sent it to the jeweler to illustrate the proportion I wanted.

 

[T L]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:44:51 AM
Author: Boom



Thank you D&T, Chrono, TL and metromom for your honest opinions.

TL pretty much nailed how I am feeling. I paid for a custom setting that doesn't look like it was custom fit for my stone. I have another photo of the ring at an angle and the airline is wide enough that I can see the metal ring that goes around the stone.

As chrono pointed out, the proportion is out and the split shank can't be seen from the front, but thse I could live with. It's the airline that really bothers me. I talked to the jeweler and he said the airline was there because my stone was not a perfect oval?? He also said I did not say I didn't want an airline. I could live with a little airline, but this one is substantial enough to change the whole look of the ring...

D&T - I'm sure it is possible to source for smaller melee, and if he couldn't, shouldn't he have let me know?

metromom - the Tiffany rings are bezel set. I sent it to the jeweler to illustrate the proportion I wanted.

Boom, if this is a custom piece made to fit your stone, it should fit it, regardless of the fact that it's not a perfect oval. That is a lame excuse, and I hope you can get your stone back, and not pay for that setting. Also, as for the airline comment from the jeweler, I'm a bit apalled, and I think that is one of the most stupid things I ever heard on this forum. Who would want an airline? I would imagine that is something you didn't need to tell someone that is doing expensive custom work.

ETA: If the seller refuses to cooperate, you can lodge a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. Get your stone back and let him keep that setting.

 

[mochi]

It would have been a purfect setting if the stone fit. I with what other''s have voiced already.

 

[decodelighted]

It does seem to be the stone that's off-Oval. If you'd realized that following the *stone*'s outline would give you a wonky Oval halo ... would THAT have been cool with you? Or would you have returned the stone or changed the setting so as not to *accentuate* the stone's outline.

A case of wrong stone for that particular project maybe? Custom is so tricky. Its more than showing a picture & saying make "that" ... because there are so many different interpretations & variances of *that*. And people have individual approximations of things like "proper proportion" etc.

Sorry you're not pleased though.


ETA: TL, *lots* of people want an airline. Its a very popular vintage style. And even Harriet's picture seems to have a bit of an airline. Airline is different than, say, corner gaps. The problem with this is that the airline accentuates the difference between the stone's outline and the halo's outline. But would anyone really want a wonky HALO? Perhaps the tweaking of this stone to this setting was beyond the jeweler's skills. It would take more finesse than normal to get that "right".

 

[Boom]

TL, that''s exactly how I feel, but the jeweler said that if it was "so important to me, I should have specified no airline". I don''t know.

 

[cellentani]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:44:51 AM
Author: Boom

Thank you D&T, Chrono, TL and metromom for your honest opinions.

TL pretty much nailed how I am feeling. I paid for a custom setting that doesn''t look like it was custom fit for my stone. I have another photo of the ring at an angle and the airline is wide enough that I can see the metal ring that goes around the stone.

As chrono pointed out, the proportion is out and the split shank can''t be seen from the front, but thse I could live with. It''s the airline that really bothers me. I talked to the jeweler and he said the airline was there because my stone was not a perfect oval?? He also said I did not say I didn''t want an airline. I could live with a little airline, but this one is substantial enough to change the whole look of the ring...

D&T - I''m sure it is possible to source for smaller melee, and if he couldn''t, shouldn''t he have let me know?

metromom - the Tiffany rings are bezel set. I sent it to the jeweler to illustrate the proportion I wanted.

Your stone is a perfect oval, it''s just not a standard calibrated size. I can''t believe a jeweler would do a custom job without fitting it to your stone - after all, isn''t your stone the main point of a custom order? And it''s not just that there''s an airline, it''s that the airline is uneven - there''s more space above and below your stone than on the sides. If the airline were even all the way around, it would look more intentional, and less like a compromise. He DID do a fabulous job on the prongs, from what I can tell. It''s hard to find a jeweler who can do those well.

 

[T L]

Boom,
I have a wonky roval stone and I sent LOGR (yes LOGR - the cheapie of cheapies) the exact measurements of the stone, and they made it a perfect fit!!! Again, I''m a bit apalled at how large the airline is, and I highly suspect that he used an existing mold. I don''t know who your jeweler is, but I do hope you can get your stone back and skip this setting. I would not pay for custom work that was not done. Sorry, I''m being so vocal about this, but this jeweler sounds like an idiot. Again, sorry for my frankness.

 

[T L]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:56:52 AM
Author: Boom
TL, that's exactly how I feel, but the jeweler said that if it was 'so important to me, I should have specified no airline'. I don't know.

It sounds like he's blackmailing you into accepting the ring - DO NOT PUT UP WITH THAT

Is there a checklist that he has that states, "check here if you want no airline." Part of the work of a custom jeweler is to make it perfect for the CUSTOMER who doesn't know all the ins and outs of how to make fine jewelery.

Stand by your opinion and do not accept that, and lodge complaints if you have to. That is extremely UNACCEPTABLE!!

Good luck to you!

 

[Fly Girl]

I know it is a bit late now, but when doing custom work, be sure to check custom work done by that jeweler. I expect my local jeweler to do what my local jeweler does. I don''t expect him to do what Leon or Tiffany does. i use four different local jewelers, depending on the project. Everyone has his speciality.

 

[mochi]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:56:52 AM
Author: Boom
TL, that''s exactly how I feel, but the jeweler said that if it was ''so important to me, I should have specified no airline''. I don''t know.

OMG...that is the most bogus statement from a jeweler that I have ever heard! It''s like saying for a custom job ''I want my diamonds to be sparkly, not gray and dull''!

 

[T L]

Date: 9/23/2009 10:03:12 AM
Author: mochi

Date: 9/23/2009 9:56:52 AM
Author: Boom
TL, that''s exactly how I feel, but the jeweler said that if it was ''so important to me, I should have specified no airline''. I don''t know.

OMG...that is the most bogus statement from a jeweler that I have ever heard! It''s like saying for a custom job ''I want my diamonds to be sparkly, not gray and dull''!

Yeah, really!! Good point!

 

[Boom]

Cellatini, TL,

I asked for frank opinions and I''m glad I''m getting them. It makes me want to cry though because the jeweler insists the setting is beautiful (I will be seeing the actual ring in about 10 days). I am sure it is, but it doesn''t look like what I asked for...

 

[T L]

Date: 9/23/2009 10:06:17 AM
Author: Boom
Cellatini, TL,

I asked for frank opinions and I''m glad I''m getting them. It makes me want to cry though because the jeweler insists the setting is beautiful (I will be seeing the actual ring in about 10 days). I am sure it is, but it doesn''t look like what I asked for...

I''m so sorry Boom, but do what you can to get your $$$ back. Let us know how it goes. In this day and age, with such a weak global economy, money is difficult to just throw away on work that is not perfect. Your beautiful stone only deserves the best.

 

[LaurenThePartier]

Boom, I agree with everyone else. A custom made piece should look as if it was made for your stone. I''m sure this was not an inexpensive piece, so I would insist that your jeweler make you happy.

 

[Boom]

This is the side view of the ring.

I think it''s pretty obvious who made the ring.
I''m sorry I photoshopped the background out in the first pic, but I really wanted to hear your honest opinions.

 

[LaurenThePartier]

Boom, without the background or with it - there is uneven ariline. I suspected who it was when you said he mentioned that you shiould have specified ''no airline''!
It''s a beautiful ring and stone regardless, but if the airline isn''t what you want, you shouldn''t HAVE to have it.

((((((hugs)))))))

 

[chrono]

Boom, I’m sorry about your ring. The workmanship is good but it bothers me that I can see the “basket” through the airline. I’m not sure what recourse you have. Is there a way to “return” the setting?

 

[Boom]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:55:09 AM
Author: decodelighted
It does seem to be the stone that''s off-Oval. If you''d realized that following the *stone*''s outline would give you a wonky Oval halo ... would THAT have been cool with you? Or would you have returned the stone or changed the setting so as not to *accentuate* the stone''s outline.

Sorry I missed your post deco,

You are right, I wouldn''t want a wonky halo. Where do you see the wonkiness? of my stone though? It''s not perfectly symmetrical, most coloured stones aren''t but I can''t see anything obvious?

I agree harriet''s lovely ring has an airline as well, but it is much smaller than mine. I don''t have anything against airlines, they do serve to adjust the shape of the stone, but how would a big airline help?

 

[Lovinggems]

Oh dear, I had my suspicions with the beautiful prongs, did the custom jeweller really use a ready made mold for Boom''s ring?

 

[Boom]

Date: 9/23/2009 10:17:18 AM
Author: LaurenThePartier
Boom, without the background or with it - there is uneven ariline. I suspected who it was when you said he mentioned that you shiould have specified ''no airline''!

It''s a beautiful ring and stone regardless, but if the airline isn''t what you want, you shouldn''t HAVE to have it.


((((((hugs)))))))

Lauren, I thought that comment might give it away.

He''s insisted the airline is not uneven.

Chrono - this was the first photo I received, and when I saw the basket through the airline, I got a lump in my throat. I don''t think I have any recourse at this point...

Here''s the unaltered version of the first photo I posted.

 

[arjunajane]

I can see the slight wonkiness in your oval - but I know that a proper custom piece should be able to accommodate for that.

I also agree that it *looks like* Harriet''s ring has an airline (apologies if it doesn''t), but yes not as distinct.

I would suggest waiting to see it in person - it may not be half as noticeable as you think.

Personally, I think it looks like a lovely ring (I though that since your first pic), but I''m not fond of airlines either so I sympathize.

 

[arjunajane]

whoa - that new pic really accentuates it.
Yeah, that is not acceptable - I don't know how he can even defend that.
The airline itself looks uneven - bigger at the top than the bottom.

My (pretty big leap) - re-using a mould of Harriet's when it's not suitable?
Or am I missing something here - you are saying LM did this ring?

If that's the case, I thought he was supposed to make everything from scratch?
When did LM start using moulds...? That is, If I have the right person, lol..

 

[mariedtiger]

Date: 9/23/2009 9:44:51 AM
Author: Boom


He also said I did not say I didn't want an airline.

I haven't read all of the posts, but I have to scoff at this comment a bit. With the two inspiration pictures, why in the world would you have to specifically state that you don't want an airline?! That doesn't make sense at all. Absolutely not your responsibility.

Edit. I agree with the others, the unevenness of the airline is unacceptable. I'm so sorry for you, your gem is stunning, and the ring would be so beautiful if it were flowing right.

 

[Boom]

Arunajane,

Yes, Leon did this ring. He does not use a mould, everything is handmade.
I went custom in order to have a setting that fit this stone. It may be a bit wonky but if anyone, he would have the skills to compensate for that. I''m not questioning the beauty of the setting, I am sure it is well made.

Date: 9/23/2009 10:37:04 AM
Author: arjunajane
whoa - that new pic really accentuates it.

Yeah, that is not acceptable - I don''t know how he can even defend that.

The airline itself looks uneven - bigger at the top than the bottom.


My (pretty big leap) - re-using a mould of Harriet''s when it''s not suitable?

Or am I missing something here - you are saying LM did this ring?


If that''s the case, I thought he was supposed to make everything from scratch?

When did LM start using moulds...? That is, If I have the right person, lol..

 

[Fly Girl]

Then you went with the best. I''d take a look at the ring and see how it looks in person. Here is a closer to lifesize photo.