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Need help finding diamonds for halo setting + setting ideas

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
Hello, everyone :) It's been a minute or three since I last posted; I've been dealing with surgeries & stuff, trying to put my back together since it was destroyed by a nurse (along with my hips and other things). This week marks the fourth year anniversary since she injured me, and I decided to make something good out of it. I want to reset a ring I have had for years that has a gorgeous blue stone in the center. I've never liked the setting - sterling silver with 2 CZ trapezoid side stones - but I LOVE the stone, which is why I bought the ring. I think it's a topaz, but it might be something else. I forget what the jeweler told me a couple years ago. I'll ask again. It isn't worth much, but it has the craziest blue sparkle and changes from blue to sea-green to dark blue depending on the light. It's pretty big, too - a 17x14mm oval.

I want to re-set it with a diamond halo, but I don't know where to start. I want rather large old mine/old European cut diamonds, maybe 4-5mm each, but I am worried that might be too large a size; so I'd love input on the halo size. (I could go with round-cut, but I'd prefer OEC or old mine cut diamonds.) I also want diamonds along part of the band, sort of a half-eternity style. Not sure about the gold colour, either. I'd either want 22k yellow gold or 18k rose gold. Feedback on all of this is welcome! I held some 22k necklaces next to the stone, and the yellow gold brings out the green; rose gold and white gold both bring out the blue. I don't know which to choose!!

I am going to meet with my jeweler next week to talk about this, but he is pretty expensive and I am hoping someone here can help me source diamonds at a competitive price. He is happy to use stones I bring him, so that isn't an issue. My budget is somewhere around 7k max for the whole project. Is this too low? I can go a little higher if necessary, but I'd really prefer not to as I also want to make some amethyst earrings to match a 19th century amethyst riviere necklace I have. (I am going to post about that separately.)

I'm willing to use lab diamonds if they are significantly cheaper. I know next to nothing about them - can you even get lab diamonds in old mine cut or OEC? Should I stick with natural diamonds?

I am attaching photos of the stone in its current setting, including one photo of it on my size 8 finger. (The ring as it is right now is about a 9.5.) I'm happy to take more photos if it will help. :)

The more feedback, the better! I'm eager to hear about what you all think of the style I have in mind, the gold colour, diamond size & cut, etc. Thank you so much in advance! I have missed you all SO MUCH!!BlueTopazOnFinger.jpgBlueTopazFront1.jpgBlueTopazFrontView2.jpgBlueTopazOnFinger.jpgBlueTopazBackView.jpg
 
Just a few comments...

I heard that 22k is too soft for a ring. I cant remember if it was @Karl_K that said that or another expert. I think especially a ring
that has a halo and a pave shank. Might want to check into that.

I think you are going to have a hard time finding that many matching oecs/omcs on your own. There is a cutter that cuts new old-stones I believe. You
might try contacting him. He does a lot of work for CVB.

Here he is on Instagram. He does lovely work

Here are some links to CVB jewelry with some small OECs.
 
Yea, 22k is not a good idea.
A setting in 22k needs to be designed for its softness and have a lot more metal than 18k leaving out most modern designs.
Dark 18k yellow alloy has the general look of 22k and the strength of 18k if you can find someone who works with it.
The common 18k alloys in the US are bright alloys.
 
Just a few comments...

I heard that 22k is too soft for a ring. I cant remember if it was @Karl_K that said that or another expert. I think especially a ring
that has a halo and a pave shank. Might want to check into that.

I think you are going to have a hard time finding that many matching oecs/omcs on your own. There is a cutter that cuts new old-stones I believe. You
might try contacting him. He does a lot of work for CVB.

Here he is on Instagram. He does lovely work

Here are some links to CVB jewelry with some small OECs.

Thank you for the input! That makes sense about the 22k with side stones. I have a 22k wedding band and it holds up pretty well to daily wear, so I guess I made some incorrect assumptions about how it would hold up to stones. Darn. I really love the look of high-karat gold! The poster below you mentioned that sometimes 18k can be a darker alloy; I'll look into that.

Thank you SO MUCH for mentioning the gentleman on Instagram! I'll take a look. I am really not a fan of round brilliant stones, to be honest, so I am really, REALLY hoping for OEC or OMC. :) I appreciate the help so much!
 
Yea, 22k is not a good idea.
A setting in 22k needs to be designed for its softness and have a lot more metal than 18k leaving out most modern designs.
Dark 18k yellow alloy has the general look of 22k and the strength of 18k if you can find someone who works with it.
The common 18k alloys in the US are bright alloys.

Thank you for this information!! I had no idea that 18k could be any darker than the 18k I see here in the US. I will ask my jeweler if this is a possibility; if not, I guess "normal" 18k will suffice. :) I LOVE the look of 22k and 24k gold, it has a colour that is really hard to match with lower karats, but the ring must also be functional and hold stones in addition to being pretty. I should have thought of that, but I can be very illogical sometimes, hehe.

I love this site! I always learn something new :) Thank you so much for taking the time to post and offer advice. 22k simply will not work, and that is good to know.

Anybody like rose gold? Does anyone think rose gold would complement the stone? I can be really indecisive, so I ordered a rose gold-plated CZ ring from Amazon to see what I think of it. I don't own a single piece of rose gold jewelry, which probably says something; however, I keep thinking how pretty copper looks next to this shade of blue/sea green. My husband has a gorgeous all-copper flashlight that he keeps shiny and new-looking, and it is pretty compelling.

Yeah. Like I said, indecisive, lol.

18k yellow gold it probably shall be!
 
from a budgetary standpoint, I'd check into someone who cuts lab diamonds in an old cut style. I'm not sure Distinctive Gem will cut them at the size you want, but you can ask. One comment is that a halo of 5mm stones will be very substantial and your stone is already large. You might want to know ahead of time with a wax or plastic model before committing to something from only a CAD.
 
from a budgetary standpoint, I'd check into someone who cuts lab diamonds in an old cut style. I'm not sure Distinctive Gem will cut them at the size you want, but you can ask. One comment is that a halo of 5mm stones will be very substantial and your stone is already large. You might want to know ahead of time with a wax or plastic model before committing to something from only a CAD.

You make several excellent points. I was going to reach out to Distinctive Gem today. So you're saying that I wouldn't really be able to judge how substantial the ring is with just a CAD drawing, and I would need a physical model? Makes perfect sense, and I hadn't thought of that at all. How do I get a physical model made? Would it be part of the design process with my jeweler? Or something I'd have to pay extra for?

Thank you so much for taking the time to post! I now have yet more important things to consider. :) I'm starting to feel overwhelmed, and here I was thinking this was a relatively simple project, lol. I've never designed a ring from scratch before and I clearly have MUCH to learn! :)
 
Yea, 22k is not a good idea.
A setting in 22k needs to be designed for its softness and have a lot more metal than 18k leaving out most modern designs.
Dark 18k yellow alloy has the general look of 22k and the strength of 18k if you can find someone who works with it.
The common 18k alloys in the US are bright alloys.

I can't believe I didn't think of this when I read your reply, but I am more than just a little scatterbrained these days. I actually have two pieces from the Middle East which are 16k gold and look 24k. My jeweler was rather intrigued by them, as he had assured us prior to testing the metal (we all thought they were made of pot metal) not to get our hopes up. One item, a ring with a large Persian turquoise, turned out to be something like 16.5k gold, haha. The other, a necklace, was something like 15.5k gold. Both look as though they were made of solid gold, but knowing the provenance (not the region in which they were made, but the person they came from), I was pretty sure myself they were worthless. Go figure. Now I just have to track down the gentlemen in Iran who made these pieces and ask them how they made the gold so bright... ;)

I've read that copper can do it, but you run the risk of its looking like rose gold.
 
Have you thought of looking for a pre-loved ring or semi-mount? I just bought this one for $3000 and the stones are large. The quote is less than a thousand to build the mounting for my stone, add some diamonds and a gallery over the bottom. Just a thought! Amethysts were insanely poplar to Victorians, and expensive, but aren’t worth much now. Same with lab spinels. Gorgeous settings!
A7FECC9B-A872-4840-896F-4AD1D1E1D83C.jpeg
 

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A quick look on first dibs—I thought this would suit your stone!
4D803883-2B67-405A-A6B7-FB616E6EE073.png
 
My concern too would be that the halo - if too large - would make the ring too big for every day wear. I would definitely want to see some mock up of the ring before I purchased diamonds for the halo. The stone itself is rather large so you may very well want to pare down the halo.
 
How do I get a physical model made? Would it be part of the design process with my jeweler? Or something I'd have to pay extra for?
I guess it depends who makes your ring. I know DK will provide one, but don't know if it adds extra to the cost.
 
Have you thought of looking for a pre-loved ring or semi-mount? I just bought this one for $3000 and the stones are large. The quote is less than a thousand to build the mounting for my stone, add some diamonds and a gallery over the bottom. Just a thought! Amethysts were insanely poplar to Victorians, and expensive, but aren’t worth much now. Same with lab spinels. Gorgeous settings!
A7FECC9B-A872-4840-896F-4AD1D1E1D83C.jpeg

That is a GORGEOUS setting!!! What are you planning to put in that? :D

I thought of going pre-loved, but the stone is so large that I wasn't able to find anything that would fit it the way I wanted. Plus I am insanely picky about jewelry and I always found something to nitpick about. :)

Someone had recommended Cicada Jewelry Design on Instagram, and after looking at this ring from him: https://www.instagram.com/p/CcEQoDbD9EH/
I think I want my ring to echo that, with the raised center stone. And for that, I think I'll have no choice but to go custom.

The blue stone in your avatar is TO DIE FOR. What is it?? Do you still have it?? That blue! *swoon*
 
A quick look on first dibs—I thought this would suit your stone!
4D803883-2B67-405A-A6B7-FB616E6EE073.png

This is pretty much identical in style to the ring in my avatar, which is probably my most cherished possession. :) Even down to the 18k yellow gold with platinum settings for the diamonds. Mine still has the French marks for 18k gold and platinum on the back outside of the band, which means I cannot get it resized ever. I guess I could, but I would feel awful destroying that bit of history. So I refuse to resize it, even though I've put on weight what with being stuck in bed. (Growl.)

I am SO tempted to buy the Burma ruby ring! (Assuming it's still available! :)) But I must stick to my goals. I need to go ahead and post my amethyst necklace and see if the kind people here will help me figure out how to design earrings to go with it.

Thank you for thinking of my project and posting this! I think instead of stones going all around the band as I'd mentioned, this is probably the way to go - two complementary smaller stones on either side of the setting. It just looks so elegant to me. You've helped me figure out an important design component - thank you so much!!! :)
 
My concern too would be that the halo - if too large - would make the ring too big for every day wear. I would definitely want to see some mock up of the ring before I purchased diamonds for the halo. The stone itself is rather large so you may very well want to pare down the halo.

That is excellent advice. I was all set to purchase stones first. I need to cool my jets and see if the mock-up is something I would actually wear. I do like large rings, but you're right - if it turns out the 4mm stones I would like make the ring cover up the adjoining fingers to a degree, that would be ridiculous and I'd probably never wear it. So I guess I'll still keep researching stones, but ask my jeweler to make a mock-up before I buy them. I can't thank you enough! I know this probably seems like the obvious, common-sense thing to do, but I honestly hadn't considered that I should wait to buy stones. I feel so naive and silly right now.
 
I guess it depends who makes your ring. I know DK will provide one, but don't know if it adds extra to the cost.

Ah, I see. Who is DK, by the way? :)
 
Has anyone personally worked with Cicada Jewelry Design? I might just ask him to make the ring. I will still meet with my jeweler, but I haven't really been completely happy with custom work from him in the past. For example, I had a pair of teardrop sterling silver earrings pretty much the same as these, but with a slightly
different curve, etc.: 1665805239077.jpeg I lost one, so I asked him to make an identical pair in 18k gold using the remaining silver earring as a model. When I went to pick them up, one of the finished earrings had a dent in the teardrop portion (front-facing, so impossible to hide) and within two wearings, the same earring snapped in half where the earwire had been soldered to the teardrop section. The jeweler said later it shouldn't have been soldered that way, but then said he'd just solder the broken section back on. That confused the hell out of me... shouldn't it be re-cast or something?

Anyway... This made me a little gunshy with having him do custom work for me, but he is the only jeweler in the area I trust not to steal diamonds I bring to him or anything like that. Lest you think I'm being paranoid or a jerk, my mother had a ring with several 5mm diamonds which needed one diamond replaced at some point. She brought it to a jeweler and he said he put a new diamond in there. My mother never bothered verifying it was a diamond; after she died, I inherited the ring. Well, guess what - the replaced "diamond" is CZ. :x2

The jewelers here on PS are beyond reproach, but as far as I know none of them are in my area. So I might wind up asking Cicada to do this, but I want to make sure he really is good. This project means a LOT to me; the stone has sentimental value, plus it's something I have wanted to do for TEN YEARS but never had the funds until now. I want to make sure it turns out nicely. :kiss2:
 
Just a few comments...

I heard that 22k is too soft for a ring. I cant remember if it was @Karl_K that said that or another expert. I think especially a ring
that has a halo and a pave shank. Might want to check into that.

I think you are going to have a hard time finding that many matching oecs/omcs on your own. There is a cutter that cuts new old-stones I believe. You
might try contacting him. He does a lot of work for CVB.

Here he is on Instagram. He does lovely work

Here are some links to CVB jewelry with some small OECs.

Thank you again for recommending Cicada Jewelry Design! His work is GORGEOUS! I seriously am considering asking him to do this - have you personally worked with him, or do you know someone who has? As I posted above, I am a little uncertain about trusting my local jeweler to do this for me.
 
DK is David Klass.



If you go to the SMTB forum and search for David Klass or DK, you’ll get a ton of results.
 
DK is David Klass.



If you go to the SMTB forum and search for David Klass or DK, you’ll get a ton of results.

Thanks! :) I checked out his Instagram - stunning stuff. DROOLING over those tennis bracelets. *sigh*
 
To the mods here - what forum should I post about designing earrings to match an amethyst necklace? No diamonds will be involved, just gold and amethyst. Thank you! :)
 
To the mods here - what forum should I post about designing earrings to match an amethyst necklace? No diamonds will be involved, just gold and amethyst. Thank you! :)

Edit: Just to be clear...I'm not a mod.
 

Edit: Just to be clear...I'm not a mod.

Mod or no, thank you very much :)
 
That is a GORGEOUS setting!!! What are you planning to put in that? :D

I thought of going pre-loved, but the stone is so large that I wasn't able to find anything that would fit it the way I wanted. Plus I am insanely picky about jewelry and I always found something to nitpick about. :)

Someone had recommended Cicada Jewelry Design on Instagram, and after looking at this ring from him: https://www.instagram.com/p/CcEQoDbD9EH/
I think I want my ring to echo that, with the raised center stone. And for that, I think I'll have no choice but to go custom.

The blue stone in your avatar is TO DIE FOR. What is it?? Do you still have it?? That blue! *swoon*

Oh yes, of course I do! There is a thread. It is a Kashmir and I was so nervous about buying it. It was the first thread I posted and I got so much help.

I am putting a Padparadscha in it. The setting was too high. Next is the inspiration and then the pad 875D6C86-84D1-49F9-BD6A-99D0C3F9DE5A.png
 

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Just in case you need it, this is one source for 18k dark casting alloy. There are a few casting companies in the US who offer it if they survived covid.

Thank you! That is incredibly helpful. :) I found a ring on Etsy crafted from 22k, supposedly from the Victorian period: https://www.etsy.com/listing/129350...ck_sum=4cdb09a6&ref=shop_home_active_44&frs=1
I tried to save a picture, but it would only save as a Web page. I still have a shred of hope that 22k is possible, but I am going forward with research on darker-alloyed 18k, as that is probably what will wind up being the gold used. :)
 
Thank you again for recommending Cicada Jewelry Design! His work is GORGEOUS! I seriously am considering asking him to do this - have you personally worked with him, or do you know someone who has? As I posted above, I am a little uncertain about trusting my local jeweler to do this for me.

I have not but I know there are a few people here on PS that have. I think he comes highly recommended. I would suggest
you work with someone who is used to doing the kind of style you're trying to do. I think Sako would be a good fit. His
work is very good and he appears to be very meticulous.

Found these...


Converted to a ring


This is a really good thread



Anyway, If you do a search on Sako in the Show Me the Bling forum you'll get several pages of links to his work.
 
Oh yes, of course I do! There is a thread. It is a Kashmir and I was so nervous about buying it. It was the first thread I posted and I got so much help.

I am putting a Padparadscha in it. The setting was too high. Next is the inspiration and then the pad 875D6C86-84D1-49F9-BD6A-99D0C3F9DE5A.png

Oooh, a Padparadscha! Those are STUNNING. They're on my jewelry bucket list. I'm not sure what you mean by "then the pad"? Are you saying that you might be making changes to the setting and sketching them out on a pad? Please forgive me; I'm a little confused, lol. Do you already have the sapphire? Is there a thread about it? I'd love to see it!!!
 
I have not but I know there are a few people here on PS that have. I think he comes highly recommended. I would suggest
you work with someone who is used to doing the kind of style you're trying to do. I think Sako would be a good fit. His
work is very good and he appears to be very meticulous.

Found these...


Converted to a ring


This is a really good thread



Anyway, If you do a search on Sako in the Show Me the Bling forum you'll get several pages of links to his work.

Thank you so much, I am so excited to dive into these threads!!! I had a feeling that Sako would be a good match for this, and it's so good to see that confirmed. My jeweler specialises in contemporary styles, most of which are NOT to my taste, and I have a feeling he's going to be pretty resistant to my ideas when I meet with him next week. Would it be worth getting him to make a physical wax/plastic model of what I want to do, or is it considered best to just stick with the person who would be making the ring? I honestly have no idea. I feel so clueless! :(
 
Oooh, a Padparadscha! Those are STUNNING. They're on my jewelry bucket list. I'm not sure what you mean by "then the pad"? Are you saying that you might be making changes to the setting and sketching them out on a pad? Please forgive me; I'm a little confused, lol. Do you already have the sapphire? Is there a thread about it? I'd love to see it!!!

Yes, I have the pad. It is the third picture. I was being lazy because I’m typing prop-Ed up on one arm in bed. There is a thread about my pad journey…this being the third times a charm one!
Here it is again.6346615B-117B-4FBD-B4B8-60D231623200.jpeg
 
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