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Need help with this square H&A ideal radiant/ princess of hearts ASET

diamondhoarder

Brilliant_Rock
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Apr 5, 2012
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Hi all

I have been searching for a fancy cut with optimum light performance for quite a while as the centre piece for a RHR. I am drawn to octagonal shapes (plus squarish cushions) and, after flirting with the idea of an asscher for some time, and then a step cut square cushion, I realised that I need more sparkle than a step cut is going to provide. After a few false starts with diamonds that have disappointed for one reason or another I have found what I think is a Princess of Hearts or square H&A radiant diamond. According to GIA it does not have a brand name lasered onto the girdle so I'm unsure if it's a branded diamond being sold on the secondary market or just a generic cut based on the H&A cut design in a square radiant cut diamond.

It measures around 6 x 6mm, and has a 57% table and 71% depth. According to the "official" criteria for radiants it's too deep, with too small a table and too thick a girdle (Sthk - Xthk) so didn't show up on any vendors websites as being a recommended great cut although I have read that these are the criteria needed to make POH style radiants perform as they do.

Here is the photo from the vendor:

RAD 1.17 G VVS2 REAL.JPG

Idealscope:

RAD 1.17 G VVS2 IDEAL.JPG

And ASET:

RAD 1.17 G VVS2 ASET.JPG

I compared the ASET to one which was posted a while ago for a POH diamond:

pohaset.jpg

Clearly the cut pattern is the same but the ASET/ idealscope and photo for my stone shows less consistency to the contrast "arrows" and possibly more leakage under the table.

I am wondering if the photo and ASET images were taken with the diamond ever so slightly tilted, accounting for the lack of consistency in the arrows pattern across the diamond. I've asked the vendor to check and re-take the images with the diamond completely straight to see if they are more consistent with the last POH ASET I posted above, but this will take another couple of days. In the meantime I was hoping that anyone with experience of POH/ square H&A diamonds could weigh in. Does my diamond look like a POH? If it is a POH then is that a guarantee of excellent light performance? What do people think of my ASET/ idealscope images so far?

Can any POH/ square H&A owners tell me how their diamonds perform in real life? Is there much leakage under the table? How is the fire and white light return? Do these diamonds give a really symmetrical light return when viewed face-on? Are they overly dark because of so much contrast from the large "arrows"? What kind of settings do these work well in? Are they a great choice for fancy with great light performance? Any drawbacks?
 
I never like princess cuts, but love this one! I am no expert And have never seen this design before, but I think it's gorgeous
 
What kind of report does it have (GIA, AGS)?

The Asets look the same to me.
 
I never like princess cuts, but love this one! I am no expert And have never seen this design before, but I think it's gorgeous

I'm glad you like it. I feel like the name "Princess of Hearts" is a little misleading as its really nothing like a princess cut, its not even the same shape. I feel like the facets are broader than the small splintery ones you see in a traditional princess cut.
 
What kind of report does it have (GIA, AGS)?

The Asets look the same to me.

Do you think so? I guess that ASETs taken by different vendors could look a little different anyway, but I did think they looked pretty similar. Although I thought the one of my stone looked a little less impressive than the other one I posted.

My stone has a GIA report.
 
D47BA279-286D-4A30-AB45-B3B87B5CC284.jpeg AE6D065B-715F-40C0-8E21-67EE013CBFC5.jpeg Here’s at least one I found on James Allen. I have s bluenile sig ideal cushion cut. (Hearts and arrows) I love it!
 
D47BA279-286D-4A30-AB45-B3B87B5CC284.jpeg AE6D065B-715F-40C0-8E21-67EE013CBFC5.jpeg Here’s at least one I found on James Allen. I have s bluenile sig ideal cushion cut. (Hearts and arrows) I love it!

Yes, I did see those ones on JA. I think the second one is a different facet design to the first one though, with a step cut top.

I would love to see a photo of your bluenile stone.
 
3FBE02F3-470B-43FB-B77F-20E17541D99A.jpeg 6BD4F6BF-C888-48D9-9C10-064573A4BAF6.jpeg .90 G vvs1 Hard to see the arrows but they are there!5F5EA673-2374-4F34-BBD2-4E5DDFDADC27.jpeg672AE420-CC4C-49FF-B50D-6167C73FB61F.jpeg
 
That ASET looks excellent for that type of stone, imo
 
That ASET looks excellent for that type of stone, imo

Thanks. The vendor took a couple more images for me and they all came out very similar. I'm thinking it's a pretty good ASET too.
 
E8A380B6-C20B-4E17-9C00-E41E18F06F13.jpeg C13812BB-C9EB-460F-B9C6-48619E2D3665.jpeg Thank you! Here it is: might be hard to see: 5.58 x 5.53x4.00, table 55%. Depth 72.3%
 
E8A380B6-C20B-4E17-9C00-E41E18F06F13.jpeg C13812BB-C9EB-460F-B9C6-48619E2D3665.jpeg Thank you! Here it is: might be hard to see: 5.58 x 5.53x4.00, table 55%. Depth 72.3%

Interesting how the table is small and depth a little larger than the usual "recommendations" for many cushions. My H&A radiant is also outside of the recommended parameters for radiants: table 57, depth 71. It just goes to show you cant judge some of these fancies on the numbers!
 
No you can’t. I found this under bluenile “good” cut. I recognized that this was one of the signature ideal cuts that was no longer being offered; as they now have the Astor ideal cut, which I didn’t like as much. It wasn’t advertised as hearts and arrows. I’ve had it got about 5 months.
 
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Thanks. The vendor took a couple more images for me and they all came out very similar. I'm thinking it's a pretty good ASET too.

Big News - I decided to order the diamond and it arrived today! :dance:

Here is the ASET image I took with my ASET viewer and phone camera:

20190911_101130.jpg

The diamond itself absolutely knocked my socks off: :love:

20190911_131344.jpg 20190911_123136.jpg

Now I just need to work on ideas for setting it :D
 

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It's amazing!!!!!
 
Thanks! :D

Here's another couple of pics. I'm loving how the 8 pointed star under the table lights up with so many different colours. I have never seen this much fire in a fancy cut diamond :love:

20190911_102633.jpg 20190911_103142.jpg20190911_102236.jpg

You picked a beauty! Congratulations =)2
 
Jeez that's nice!! good find :clap:
 
Jeez that's nice!! good find :clap:

Thanks. It did take some searching out. But in the end I got lucky and snagged this for a great price, probably because there is no brand name listed on the GIA cert, and based on the specific proportions necessary to create this hearts and arrows cut (smaller table and bigger depth) it was not listed among the supposedly higher performing diamonds.

The first vendor I contacted about it actually tried to persuade me against it. :eh: According to them it would have poor light performance because it was outside of their suggested parameters for a radiant. They didn't bother to consider any further information other than the table, depth and girdle thickness. They even went so far as to say that if I ordered it from them it would be non-returnable because they didn't want to be saddled with a poor performing diamond in their inventory that would be difficult to sell on!!! :snooty:
 
Couldn't resist one more pic :D

20190913_102310.jpg
 
I am no expert but the center facets do not look symmetrical to me -just a tad off.
 
I am no expert but the center facets do not look symmetrical to me -just a tad off.

I think it might just the angles in my photography. I was paying more attention to trying to capture all the coloured fire than the pattern.

Here is the vendor's photo, - do you see symmetry issues in this one?

9219555.jpg
 
It looks fantastic!
 
What a little treasure! How do you think you'll set it?
 
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