New to this - antique engagement ring

[Dalbini]

Hi everyone -

My girlfriend and I are planning on getting engaged and we have decided on an antique ring for sustainability/character.

We have visited a few antique stores and she has found some diamond rings that she really likes.

What are the proper steps I should take whe buying an antique ring? Do I need to bring a professional in to verify that it's real? Do I trust the dealer?

Thanks for any input.

 

[Bron357]

Congratulations on your pending engagement.
As a lover and owner of antique/ vintage jewellery I can offer this advice.
Firstly any diamonds in an antique ring are not likely to be certified. This means that parameters such as carat weight, colour and clarity may be estimated. Estimations are just that. Depending on how much you are spending this can affect the true “value” of the diamonds.
Secondly but more important in my experience is the condition of both the setting and the diamond. Well loved rings can be worn thin. It is expensive to reshank a ring or rebuild prongs. Diamonds can be chipped on the girdle (edge of the diamond) or table (top) or facet edges. You must buy yourself a loupe, so you can examine under magnification the diamond for damage.
You can buy these on eBay.
You need to check the prongs by trying to “wiggle the diamond(s) in the setting. Any movement means loose prongs. Also check that all diamonds are sitting correctly in the setting. Not tilted or sunken.
I would advise not “rushing in” without having a good look around various vendors and learning more about diamonds. You can do this online. You need to have a general understanding of what is good value and what isn’t.
Most vendors can be trusted, it’s unlikely anyone will be selling you CZ in an antique ring but the difference in price determined by the quality of the diamond can vary enormously. That’s your real risk, not buying well.
Carat weight determines price but old cut diamonds with a high table look smaller in size for the same carat weight modern round brilliant.
Colour is nigh impossible to assess visually for most diamonds but the difference is price between say a H colour and an M colour is a lot.
Clarity you can check with your loupe. Expect to “see things” they are inclusions. More inclusions equal lower clarity equals lower price. What inclusions can you see just with your eye?
Have a look at the Vendor Ivy & Rose. They are recommended around here. Have a look at their loose old cut diamonds. See what prices they are charging, what dimensions equals carat weight so you can have some reference point while looking in person.
Finally, don’t buy a worn setting assuming you can easily and cheaply get it fixed. Many many years ago I bought a beautiful Victorian ruby and diamond ring. It was very worn, some diamonds were tilted / sunken, the shank was very very thin. I thought “how hard can it be to refurbish”? It ended up being a full remake of the ring, costly $$$$.

 

[Dalbini]

Congratulations on your pending engagement.
As a lover and owner of antique/ vintage jewellery I can offer this advice.
Firstly any diamonds in an antique ring are not likely to be certified. This means that parameters such as carat weight, colour and clarity may be estimated. Estimations are just that. Depending on how much you are spending this can affect the true “value” of the diamonds.
Secondly but more important in my experience is the condition of both the setting and the diamond. Well loved rings can be worn thin. It is expensive to reshank a ring or rebuild prongs. Diamonds can be chipped on the girdle (edge of the diamond) or table (top) or facet edges. You must buy yourself a loupe, so you can examine under magnification the diamond for damage.
You can buy these on eBay.
You need to check the prongs by trying to “wiggle the diamond(s) in the setting. Any movement means loose prongs. Also check that all diamonds are sitting correctly in the setting. Not tilted or sunken.
I would advise not “rushing in” without having a good look around various vendors and learning more about diamonds. You can do this online. You need to have a general understanding of what is good value and what isn’t.
Most vendors can be trusted, it’s unlikely anyone will be selling you CZ in an antique ring but the difference in price determined by the quality of the diamond can vary enormously. That’s your real risk, not buying well.
Carat weight determines price but old cut diamonds with a high table look smaller in size for the same carat weight modern round brilliant.
Colour is nigh impossible to assess visually for most diamonds but the difference is price between say a H colour and an M colour is a lot.
Clarity you can check with your loupe. Expect to “see things” they are inclusions. More inclusions equal lower clarity equals lower price. What inclusions can you see just with your eye?
Have a look at the Vendor Ivy & Rose. They are recommended around here. Have a look at their loose old cut diamonds. See what prices they are charging, what dimensions equals carat weight so you can have some reference point while looking in person.
Finally, don’t buy a worn setting assuming you can easily and cheaply get it fixed. Many many years ago I bought a beautiful Victorian ruby and diamond ring. It was very worn, some diamonds were tilted / sunken, the shank was very very thin. I thought “how hard can it be to refurbish”? It ended up being a full remake of the ring, costly $$$$.

Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for!