OEC - thoughts on stone and how to set

[jerseypeach]

Good morning!

I have stumbled upon what seems to be a great deal for an Old Euro diamond. However, I know virtually nothing about this cut (beyond the fact that I find it to be beautiful!) and was curious to know everyone’s thoughts around this stone. It is just under $6k.






Separately, assuming I move forward, does any one have any thoughts around a setting? I want something that feels a bit vintage but still delicate. Perhaps just a plain band? Six versus eight prongs? Also found this inspo shot:



Many thanks in advance for anyone willing to share their thoughts.

 

[dk168]

I am not an expert, however, I believe it is a good deal as I find the stone lovely.

As it is quite warm in colour, I would probably opt for yellow or rose gold instead of white metals.

I would bezel set everything if I could, so it should not be a surprise for me to suggest bezel setting it in a wide metal-only halo or in a Gypsy rub-over setting.

DK

 

[lulu_ma]

That's a pretty stone. I am not a 100% sure, but that looks like an EGL cert. EGL can be 1-2 color grades off of GIA so the stone might be a GIA N color. I only say this so that you can get some good comp pricing.

It's hard for me to get a true sense of the stone from the pics. But the table and depth look to be in good range. Do you have a profile pic?

 

[jerseypeach]

That's a pretty stone. I am not a 100% sure, but that looks like an EGL cert. EGL can be 1-2 color grades off of GIA so the stone might be a GIA N color. I only say this so that you can get some good comp pricing.

It's hard for me to get a true sense of the stone from the pics. But the table and depth look to be in good range. Do you have a profile pic?

It is EGL, and that’s helpful to know. I figured their grading might not be as strict.

Here is the only pic I got from the side (it’s also the most yellow angle for the stone IMO)

 

[luckygreen317]

In my personal experience, it depends if it’s EGL or EGL USA. My “EGL” graded stone which was H - VS2 came back from GIA as a J - SI2.

The stone looks to be lower that an “L” color, but I personally love warmth in OECs. I would play up the warmth and set in 18 kt rose gold or yellow gold. It also may face up smaller than a 2 carat based on the dimensions.

With all that said, the fantastic price outweighs all my previous comments. Great find!

 

[jerseypeach]

In my personal experience, it depends if it’s EGL or EGL USA. My “EGL” graded stone which was H - VS2 came back from GIA as a J - SI2.

The stone looks to be lower that an “L” color, but I personally love warmth in OECs. I would play up the warmth and set in 18 kt rose gold or yellow gold. It also may face up smaller than a 2 carat based on the dimensions.

With all that said, the fantastic price outweighs all my previous comments. Great find!

I honestly would prefer a larger and/or slightly less warm stone (a true K/L), but for this price I am thinking it's worth some concessions! I just stumbled upon it and it's close enough to my wish list.

 

[lulu_ma]

It is EGL, and that’s helpful to know. I figured their grading might not be as strict.

Here is the only pic I got from the side (it’s also the most yellow angle for the stone IMO)

The tint could be a reflection of the yellow gold. Don’t be afraid of white metal. The stone in my avatar pic is a HRD M color-so possibly NOP color. It is set in platinum.

It doesn’t hurt to cross check pricing with other vendors like Jewels by Whitney…

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[Cerulean]

Don’t buy just for a good deal. I personally am not crazy about the cut and think the facets under the table are messy. I prefer more symmetrical and flowery facets in an OEC for sure

I think the 1.81 stones in Whitney’s post are a nicer cut

Color is totally personal preference so if you like it visually I wouldn’t get hung up on grading

 

[jerseypeach]

Don’t buy just for a good deal. I personally am not crazy about the cut and think the facets under the table are messy. I prefer more symmetrical and flowery facets in an OEC for sure

I think the 1.81 stones in Whitney’s post are a nicer cut

Color is totally personal preference so if you like it visually I wouldn’t get hung up on grading

What does “messy facets” mean? Sorry, as I shared above I am learning about this type of stone for the first time.

 

[jerseypeach]

I am not an expert, however, I believe it is a good deal as I find the stone lovely.

As it is quite warm in colour, I would probably opt for yellow or rose gold instead of white metals.

I would bezel set everything if I could, so it should not be a surprise for me to suggest bezel setting it in a wide metal-only halo or in a Gypsy rub-over setting.

DK

you might like the way this looks, then.

 

[Cerulean]

What does “messy facets” mean? Sorry, as I shared above I am learning about this type of stone for the first time.

This part of the stone doesn’t look very symmetrical- so facets appear disorganized instead of having a clear pattern like the 2 1.81 stones. I’d maybe look at a few more OECs before pulling the trigger, I’m not sure if this is for your engagement ring but 6k isn’t a meaningless amount of money

 

[jerseypeach]

Okay! Another contender in the mix. Would love to hear thoughts.

 

[Cerulean]

I like this new one less unfortunately. It looks very shallow/pancake-like. The first is livelier.

Wondering if you’re beholden to this vendor? What exactly are you looking for? You have to like it above all. I’m not sure what kind of advice you’re looking for, but folks here love to hunt if you need help

 

[jerseypeach]

I like this new one less unfortunately. It looks very shallow/pancake-like. The first is livelier.

Wondering if you’re beholden to this vendor? What exactly are you looking for? You have to like it above all. I’m not sure what kind of advice you’re looking for, but folks here love to hunt if you need help

I am somewhat beholden! Essentially, several years ago I purchased an emerald lab from them. They guaranteed the purchase price for the stone. I’m now trading it in for a similar stone that is about half the cost, which will leave me with a credit.

 

[Cerulean]

I am somewhat beholden! Essentially, several years ago I purchased an emerald lab from them. They guaranteed the purchase price for the stone. I’m now trading it in for a similar stone that is about half the cost, which will leave me with a credit.

Gotcha. Well, between the two the first is definitely nicer IMO. Some of us here are very persnickety with cut so take feedback with a grain of salt. YOU have to like it. Seeing them both on your hand - do either of them really speak to you?

 

[jerseypeach]

Here’s a video of the two stones - they are covered in my fingerprints so please excuse all the smudges!

OLD EUROS

 

[jerseypeach]

Gotcha. Well, between the two the first is definitely nicer IMO. Some of us here are very persnickety with cut so take feedback with a grain of salt. YOU have to like it. Seeing them both on your hand - do either of them really speak to you?

Honestly, they both speak to me. So do most diamonds. I find them all beautiful! That being said I don’t want to get blinded by sparkle and ignore if a diamond isn’t a good one.

 

[junebug17]

I think the first one does perform a bit better but you've had the chance to see both in person, which counts for a lot. No right or wrong here, go with the one that speaks to you the most!

 

[Cerulean]

Here’s a video of the two stones - they are covered in my fingerprints so please excuse all the smudges!

OLD EUROS

The video is helpful. There’s no contest to me - no. 1. But it’s totally up to you

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Out of the two, the first is a better option. It's a bit wonky, but you can love wonky.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Second one is poorly cut with an obvious fish eye (dead mushy zone encircling the center). It will not sparkle and flash as much a well cut stone across different lighting environments. I bet it also had a nail head when obstructed (dark dead center).

First is better but it still doesn’t wow me. I’d like to see it in different lighting environments or better close up photos of the faceting to really make a call. A profile shot would help.
Can you film a video standing next to a window but with your back to the window, so there is lots of diffuse/indirect natural light?

Also these are not “deals”, your jeweller knows how to price their goods, so remove that idea from your consideration. In some ways EGL exists to help dealers charge more for a diamond than they could get if it had a reliable GIA report, so keep that in mind when evaluating.

All diamonds look nice when you first see them, especially if you don’t have a lot of familiarity with a particular cut style. OP you can learn more about old cuts if you want by searching PS. You could start here with my old cut guide if you want.

OK, some people have said they would like me to make a thread with my thoughts on buying old cuts.

I was hikacking someone else's thread in the interest of trying to explain something to TGal, and instead of doing that I thought I would start this thread.

I am by NO means trying to suggest I am any type of real expert on old cuts. I am not trying to suggest I know anything more than any of the other old cut lovers here on PS. I simply want to share some of my own observations and things I have learned buying old cut diamonds on ebay.

I will likely just copy some of my posts from other threads here, or update this from time to time. I am not really interested in approaching this systematically. That seems too much like work And frankly, I post on PS to avoid work.

So, in no particular order, here are some thoughts. Feel free to ask questions if you like, or add your own two cents, but perhaps if someone wants to open debate about a particular issue they can start another thread so that this one is easy to read for those people who specifically were interested in my ideas. However off base they may be

 

[jerseypeach]

Second one is poorly cut with an obvious fish eye (dead mushy zone encircling the center). It will not sparkle and flash as much a well cut stone across different lighting environments. I bet it also had a nail head when obstructed (dark dead center).

First is better but it still doesn’t wow me. I’d like to see it in different lighting environments or better close up photos of the faceting to really make a call. A profile shot would help.
Can you film a video standing next to a window but with your back to the window, so there is lots of diffuse/indirect natural light?

Also these are not “deals”, your jeweller knows how to price their goods, so remove that idea from your consideration. In some ways EGL exists to help dealers charge more for a diamond than they could get if it had a reliable GIA report, so keep that in mind when evaluating.

All diamonds look nice when you first see them, especially if you don’t have a lot of familiarity with a particular cut style. OP you can learn more about old cuts if you want by searching PS. You could start here with my old cut guide if you want.

This is a very helpful reply - thank you! And thanks for the guide.

I don’t have a video with exactly what you requested, but two that might assist:

Indoor side view
Outdoor view

 

[Dreamer_D]

I like the taller crown and very small table on the smaller stone. It seems like it has a nice brightness across the whole face of the stone. I can’t tell much more from those videos, but the smaller one has promise for sure. If you can take a nice clear photo looking directly into the face of the stones that would help.

I know the bigger one is, well, bigger! But these new videos don’t change my mind about its cut. Can you see the difference in liveliness and overall brightness between the stones in person? You might see it as the smaller one looking whiter and the larger looking darker or more tinted.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Can you link the IG post about the smaller diamond so I can look at it?

 

[jerseypeach]

Can you link the IG post about the smaller diamond so I can look at it?

Here are some pics!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I think the smaller one looks quite nice in the images. Classic OEC proportions in my book.

None of the lighting environments these photos are from are ideal for OECs so if it looks nice in these conditions it might be a winner.

Can you see the fish eye in the bigger one in that image you just posted of the two stones together?

 

[jerseypeach]

I think the smaller one looks quite nice in the images. Classic OEC proportions in my book.

None of the lighting environments these photos are from are ideal for OECs so if it looks nice in these conditions it might be a winner.

Can you see the fish eye in the bigger one in that image you just posted of the two stones together?

Yes, I do see exactly what you’re talking about. Honestly, it validates a lot of what I was feeling about it - I thought the size/spread was quite nice, but in addition to the fish eye (glad to know the name!) it felt a bit flat. If I had went with it, I was thinking it would probably be best in a bezel.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I think a bezel would make the situation worse!

Glad you have a name for what you were seeing. I too have been called by the siren song of large but poorly cut diamonds and I have never regretted resisting and instead going for a little smaller but better cut.

 

[jerseypeach]

I think a bezel would make the situation worse!

Glad you have a name for what you were seeing. I too have been called by the siren song of large but poorly cut diamonds and I have never regretted resisting and instead going for a little smaller but better cut.

I appreciate all of your advice! It gives me a lot of peace knowing that you think the smaller stone is a solid choice. My plan as of right now is to set it in a white gold/platinum with sapphires flanking it. I’ll be sure to post pictures when it is complete.

 

[Dreamer_D]

It looks like a lively make. True there might be another out there somewhere with a bit more symmetry in the faceting on the pavilion, and that could theoretically brighten the area under the table, but my experience with old cuts of this flavour — this classic, slightly later European cut with a table and crown more similar to an MRB and pavilion faceting more similar to an old miner — is that most of them have a little bit of laziness under the table. Just part of the beast!

For setting, the only thing to consider is whether you prefer the stone bezelled or not. It will change the facet patterning and light play and you may find you have a preference.