Opinion/Advice/Considerations on Old European Cut (OEC) diamond

[S William]

A little over a year ago I began reeducating myself about diamonds for an engagement ring. Once I understood what an OEC diamond is and saw a couple in the wild, I knew for certain that is not only what I wanted, but also have nonchalantly confirmed she will love it as well. For the past several months I have been searching for an OEC or Transitional with the characteristics and personality that only a 1920's - 1930's era diamond display for the engagement ring.

After speaking with a few jewelers, I finally found an outstanding jeweler that is willing to work on finding an OEC diamond within my price range with the best cut (for that era), color and clarity. Other jewelers didn't seem interested in helping me or would tend to guide me away from the idea of an OEC.

It's been a few months that I have been searching and only this past month have I been working with this particular jeweler. Just yesterday they sent me this one for my consideration, but it's a considerable jump in price from what I have been looking at and I feel like it's overpriced at $9800. If you would, please take a look and share with me some thoughts, considerations, advice, guidance... I believe I know enough to understand but by no means would I consider myself "knowledgeable".

GIA Report / Viewer

 

[Joanne10]

I like the floral pattern, it’s pretty! Unfortunately, that’s where my feedback ends - the finer points of OEC performance are still a mystery for me… Maybe someone more versed will chime in?

 

[maryjane04]

I love the kozibe and the faceting is quite pretty. That said it does feel a little bit on the pricier side. I just did a comparison on Old World Diamonds for similar specs.

 

[YadaYadaYada]

Something to consider is this diamond has an extremely thin girdle so it would best be set into a setting that is protective. That factor alone would probably be enough that I would consider other options.

 

[lovedogs]

I love the kozibe and the faceting is quite pretty. That said it does feel a little bit on the pricier side. I just did a comparison on Old World Diamonds for similar specs.

OP, old world diamonds is one of the best, so I'd contact them. I think the stone you're considering is definitely overpriced.

 

[lovedogs]

Ps. I don't know what your color/clarity/size preferenxes are, but I wouldn't limit yourself to high colors because it will make your search almost impossible.

Some options I like (but would want video to be sure):

1.53ct OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMOND GIA CERTIFIED L VS2 LOOSE NATURAL VINTAGE ESTATE

Highlights:- GIA certified- Substantial 1.53ct size- Original vintage diamond- Beautiful old European cut- Charming very subtle warmth with L color- Excellent VS2 clarityAdditional Notes:The diamond is being sold loose, but it can be mounted upon request

ivyandrose.com

OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMOND GIA CERTIFIED 1.01ct I SI1 LOOSE VINTAGE NATURAL 1ct

Highlights:- Original vintage diamond- Great 1.01 carat size- GIA certified- Gorgeous old European cut.- Bright white face up with I color- 100% eye clean with SI1 clarity

ivyandrose.com

 

[lovedogs]

1.54ct Old European Cut Diamond, GIA M SI1

Chunky and super bright old European cut diamond with broad facets and super lively personality! The diamond faces up a nice creamy in most lighting conditions and super white in others! What a gorgeous piece of jewelry she would make. Diamond measures 7.29 - 7.40 x 4.56 m GIA Link Here

jewelsbygrace.com

1.29ct Old European Cut Diamond, GIA I VS1

The IDEAL make for a later-cut old European cut diamond - chunky facets, that flower pattern under the table, and the higher color/clarity combo is simply perfection! Just a total beaut all around. Diamond Measures: 6.86 - 7.06 x 4.37 mm GIA Report Here

jewelsbygrace.com

 

[Joanne10]

OP, does it have to be a loose stone? How would you feel about an original Art Deco ring?

Art Deco 1.19 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring - GIA J SI1

Delicate geometric hand piercing distinguishes this chic, sophisticated, and stunning original Art Deco engagement ring starring a sparkling 1.19 carat European-cut diamond. The scintillating stone beams brilliantly from within a bezel-setting and is modestly embellished on each shoulder with a...

www.langantiques.com

 

[S William]

OP, does it have to be a loose stone? How would you feel about an original Art Deco ring?

Art Deco 1.19 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring - GIA J SI1

Delicate geometric hand piercing distinguishes this chic, sophisticated, and stunning original Art Deco engagement ring starring a sparkling 1.19 carat European-cut diamond. The scintillating stone beams brilliantly from within a bezel-setting and is modestly embellished on each shoulder with a...

www.langantiques.com

I LOVE this setting, and the Art Deco flavor, however, she is partial to a tapered millgrain cathedral setting she came across in our travels.

Samples of what she likes... Setting Inspirations

 

[S William]

1.54ct Old European Cut Diamond, GIA M SI1

Chunky and super bright old European cut diamond with broad facets and super lively personality! The diamond faces up a nice creamy in most lighting conditions and super white in others! What a gorgeous piece of jewelry she would make. Diamond measures 7.29 - 7.40 x 4.56 m GIA Link Here

jewelsbygrace.com

1.29ct Old European Cut Diamond, GIA I VS1

The IDEAL make for a later-cut old European cut diamond - chunky facets, that flower pattern under the table, and the higher color/clarity combo is simply perfection! Just a total beaut all around. Diamond Measures: 6.86 - 7.06 x 4.37 mm GIA Report Here

jewelsbygrace.com

Thank you for these too! I was just going through JBG last evening. This is one site I keep a close eye on for changes or adds.

 

[S William]

Ps. I don't know what your color/clarity/size preferenxes are, but I wouldn't limit yourself to high colors because it will make your search almost impossible.

Some options I like (but would want video to be sure):

1.53ct OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMOND GIA CERTIFIED L VS2 LOOSE NATURAL VINTAGE ESTATE

Highlights:- GIA certified- Substantial 1.53ct size- Original vintage diamond- Beautiful old European cut- Charming very subtle warmth with L color- Excellent VS2 clarityAdditional Notes:The diamond is being sold loose, but it can be mounted upon request

ivyandrose.com

OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMOND GIA CERTIFIED 1.01ct I SI1 LOOSE VINTAGE NATURAL 1ct

Highlights:- Original vintage diamond- Great 1.01 carat size- GIA certified- Gorgeous old European cut.- Bright white face up with I color- 100% eye clean with SI1 clarity

ivyandrose.com

I have focused my searches mostly toward 1.0 - 1.4, G/H/I, VS1/2. I personally like the slight yellow of an OEC, but I for this I prefer a whiter color, and although I like the idea of a little fluorescence, none is ideal. I think I am going to have to expand my search to include a wider color range.

 

[S William]

Something to consider is this diamond has an extremely thin girdle so it would best be set into a setting that is protective. That factor alone would probably be enough that I would consider other options.

This is one of my major concerns... It seems like the girdles on OEC's tend to lean toward the thin side. Damage due to its years or inclusions that would contribute to chipping is my understanding of how a thin girdle could go wrong. Due to the setting we are wanting to go with, I would like the girdle to be more than "thin"

 

[lovedogs]

I have focused my searches mostly toward 1.0 - 1.4, G/H/I, VS1/2. I personally like the slight yellow of an OEC, but I for this I prefer a whiter color, and although I like the idea of a little fluorescence, none is ideal. I think I am going to have to expand my search to include a wider color range.

Yeah I think definitely a wider color range. Otherwise you'll have almost 0 choices.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Welcome tot he world of antiques which operates on a very different set of criteria than the modern diamond. A different market, different parameters for value. Different nearly everything.

Antique diamonds that survived until today are nearly always in the KLM color range, or even more tinted. I would advice you not to aim for a colorless stone in a true antique lest you hunt forever and also miss out on many amazing options.

Also, if you want to work with JBEG or OWD you should call them and tell them what you are after bc they have access to many gems that are not on their websites.

The stone your current jeweler offered is very nicely cut. You are paying a heavy premium for G color. You will not find many/any comps that are both colorless and well cut. If you like it call it in to see in person. Persons also call in some JLK stones and let your eyes choose. That is the best way with antiques.

 

[LightBright]

I LOVE this setting, and the Art Deco flavor, however, she is partial to a tapered millgrain cathedral setting she came across in our travels.

Samples of what she likes... Setting Inspirations

I wonder if your loved one might consider a different tapered setting.

The tapered miligrain she likes is modern. It’s reminiscent of antique settings so maybe she hasn’t seen enough antique settings to know they are wonderful.

The one from Langs has miligrain around the diamond. Some have miligrain shanks. The benefit of getting a complete antique ring (check with Langs if this is a complete antique) is that the settings are often one of a kind and matched to the specific diamond.

It’s cost effective to buy both together, and you are buying a piece of history that is one of a kind.

I think the Langs complete ring is worth considering and I think the diamond has potential.

I encourage buying complete antique rings because also what you see is what you get versus hoping you will find a jeweler to execute your vision perfectly. It’s also usually more cost effective to buy an antique setting versus hoping to execute one with a modern jeweler as old world craftsmanship and materials are costly.

Beyond the Lang’s ring I think connecting with Adam of Old World Diamonds who sells both antique and well executed modern settings plus authentic antique diamonds, Alex of Parks Fine Group who sells loose stones and WILL do your perfect setting custom (he is an exceptional setting craftsman), or looking at Etsy and in particular Ebay for nice diamonds in antique settings is your best bet.

I would not work with a vendor who can’t find multiple antique stones easily. Again, I would go to one directly that specializes in antique diamonds or modern old cuts or go search for a complete antique ring on EBay.

 

[LightBright]

OP have you visited our Somebodies Gotta Buy this Piece thread here on the Antiques forum and posted what you are looking for? Sometimes people see good things and can refer them to you. RealReal is another place to buy antique stones right now. I’ve seen some great antique rings and even bought several from RealReal. For antique diamonds in settings Ebay and RealReal are good places to look right now for better deals.

For example this Ebay find claims to be an .95 E color and I love the antique setting. I like the diamond although I’d need to see a video or other photos. Clarity might be an issue but I always forgive some inclusions if the cut and color is good.

Platinum 0.94 Carat Old European Cut Diamond Engagement Ring | eBay

<p>We are obsessed with this dainty beauty!!</p><p>SHe features a stunning diamond along with a classic design.</p><p>Diamond Details: </p><p>Cut: Old European</p><p>Weight: 0.94 Carat</p><p>Color: E</p><p>Clarity:Si2</p><p>Dimensions: 5.86mm X 5.84mm X 4.17mm</p><p>EGL: USA...

www.ebay.com

Other eyes can find you things but it’s a quick example.

 

[LightBright]

For example - Here’s a modern setting (I love it and it makes the diamond look bigger) from a popular designer with an antique stone from RealReal. Certified GIA G color 1.06 carat VS

Old European Cut Diamond Edie Engagement Ring

950 Platinum & 18K Yellow Gold. Includes Jewelry Pouch.

www.therealreal.com

 

[S William]

I wonder if your loved one might consider a different tapered setting.

The tapered miligrain she likes is modern. It’s reminiscent of antique settings so maybe she hasn’t seen enough antique settings to know they are wonderful.

The one from Langs has miligrain around the diamond. Some have miligrain shanks. The benefit of getting a complete antique ring (check with Langs if this is a complete antique) is that the settings are often one of a kind and matched to the specific diamond.

It’s cost effective to buy both together, and you are buying a piece of history that is one of a kind.

I think the Langs complete ring is worth considering and I think the diamond has potential.

I encourage buying complete antique rings because also what you see is what you get versus hoping you will find a jeweler to execute your vision perfectly. It’s also usually more cost effective to buy an antique setting versus hoping to execute one with a modern jeweler as old world craftsmanship and materials are costly.

Beyond the Lang’s ring I think connecting with Adam of Old World Diamonds who sells both antique and well executed modern settings plus authentic antique diamonds, Alex of Parks Fine Group who sells loose stones and WILL do your perfect setting custom (he is an exceptional setting craftsman), or looking at Etsy and in particular Ebay for nice diamonds in antique settings is your best bet.

I would not work with a vendor who can’t find multiple antique stones easily. Again, I would go to one directly that specializes in antique diamonds or modern old cuts or go search for a complete antique ring on EBay.

Thank you very much for the guidance and advice on considering settings. I now have a new angle to research that I didn't consider previously. I was was not aware of Langs until now.

 

[S William]

OP have you visited our Somebodies Gotta Buy this Piece thread here on the Antiques forum and posted what you are looking for? Sometimes people see good things and can refer them to you. RealReal is another place to buy antique stones right now. I’ve seen some great antique rings and even bought several from RealReal. For antique diamonds in settings Ebay and RealReal are good places to look right now for better deals.

For example this Ebay find claims to be an .95 E color and I love the antique setting. I like the diamond although I’d need to see a video or other photos. Clarity might be an issue but I always forgive some inclusions if the cut and color is good.

Platinum 0.94 Carat Old European Cut Diamond Engagement Ring | eBay

<p>We are obsessed with this dainty beauty!!</p><p>SHe features a stunning diamond along with a classic design.</p><p>Diamond Details: </p><p>Cut: Old European</p><p>Weight: 0.94 Carat</p><p>Color: E</p><p>Clarity:Si2</p><p>Dimensions: 5.86mm X 5.84mm X 4.17mm</p><p>EGL: USA...

www.ebay.com

Other eyes can find you things but it’s a quick example.

I am brand new to the PS forums. I appreciate the forum recommendation and links. Just when I thought I've run out of options...

 

[LightBright]

Thank you very much for the guidance and advice on considering settings. I now have a new angle to research that I didn't consider previously. I was was not aware of Langs until now.

One caveat about Ebay is that despite numerous options - many times vendors pop a suboptimal diamond into an antique setting.

Pricescope people can help you assess potential from photos before you purchase/see in person.

RealReal seems to do this less for their antique rings (eg pop in a replacement diamond). Just ask PS for opinions AS A CAVEAT

Another tip - the GIA Report is often secondary to what the diamond looks like by eye. So not always necessary for a vendor to provide at all. Some PSers can tell you instantly whether a stone is worth seeing in person, and even assess color accurately from a few photos. Just to let you know.

 

[LightBright]

I am brand new to the PS forums. I appreciate the forum recommendation and links. Just when I thought I've run out of options...

Oh my goodness no you have not run out of options. Any time I lose out on a special antique ring to another customer I just remind myself that people are buying and selling antique rings and always will. I just bought a 200 plus year old Georgian ring!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I’m not sure I would suggest eBay for someone new to antique diamond buying as there is literally zero customer service and guidance. Photos and videos are usually poor.

There are a handful of sellers on IG who I would buy from. Gilded Lane is one bc I knew the owner on PS so long ago and she has a good track record. Down side is her offerings disappear in 30 mins and so you really need to know what you are going for.

For a buyer like you I would counsel calling Adam and OWD or Grace at JBG. If I want cheap and unwilling to pay retail, they are the vendors I would trust.

And no you are not out of options! If you loosen your search parameters your pool of choices will literally increase 200 fold and I bet we could find you many options in a matter of days. If you widen your search to more vendors you will also have better luck but you will likely still need to be patient and ask multiple sellers to hunt for what you need.

 

[LightBright]

keep visiting Somebody’s Gotta Buy This Piece on this Forum. There are several nice complete rings right now from PawnAmerica. Good Luck!

 

[S William]

I’m not sure I would suggest eBay for someone new to antique diamond buying as there is literally zero customer service and guidance. Photos and videos are usually poor.

There are a handful of sellers on IG who I would buy from. Gilded Lane is one bc I knew the owner on PS so long ago and she has a good track record. Down side is her offerings disappear in 30 mins and so you really need to know what you are going for.

For a buyer like you I would counsel calling Adam and OWD or Grace at JBG. If I want cheap and unwilling to pay retail, they are the vendors I would trust.

And no you are not out of options! If you loosen your search parameters your pool of choices will literally increase 200 fold and I bet we could find you many options in a matter of days. If you widen your search to more vendors you will also have better luck but you will likely still need to be patient and ask multiple sellers to hunt for what you need.

Thank you very much! I am in awe at what Gilded Lane has offered up.

 

[Dreamer_D]

If I want cheap and unwilling to pay retail, they are the vendors I would trust.

I

I just want to correct this type, the sentence should say “If I wasn’t cheap and unwilling to pay retail…” Both of those vendors are retailers.

 

[lovedogs]

Thank you very much! I am in awe at what Gilded Lane has offered up.

She's great. And always happy to chat, so maybe DM her and ask what she has or might have soon

 

[LightBright]

I’m enjoying MavenLane on Instagram. I love everything she posts. For example SO gorgeous and one of a kind and French made turn of the Century. This is not OEC it’s an -extremely- rare elongated old mine cushion.

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