shape
carat
color
clarity

Princess Cut Diamonds - Help needed I'm so lost!

kfdean23

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 14, 2023
Messages
5
Good morning all,

To preface this, I am new to diamonds but have researched princess diamonds extensively (75+ hours) for the last two months, attempting to find a diamond that seemed "perfect" in my OCD mind. I have now spent way too much time on this and always end up back to square one again, so at this point, I just need to pull the trigger and buy a diamond.

Originally, I was looking exclusively at Blue Nile Astor Ideal Princess Diamonds because they had Gemex reports. I won't buy a diamond online until I see how the diamond responds to light. I found a few diamonds that met my parameters and were also off the chart on the Gemex report, only to realize though, it seems Gemex reports lack consistency and aren't the most reliable sources for gauging how well a diamond will look in person in the light. I then asked Blue Nile if I could have ASET and Ideal Scope images of these diamonds and was told that they don't do that. I then started scouring many other reputable diamond wholesalers, and have been continually told that they don't provide ASET and Ideal Scope images for GIA lab-certified diamonds, and will only do that at an additional cost after I already purchase the diamond.

Since then, I've been exclusively looking at AGS-certified Princess cut diamonds due to the ASET image on the report, but have had no luck. Princess cut diamonds with AGS reports are hard to find, and even the ones I have found, mostly on Whiteflash, don't meet the standard I want. I've now given up on AGS-certified princess cut diamonds since they're so limited and have gone back to looking at GIA ones. What I need help with is: How can I determine how well the diamond responds to light, therefore helping determine its potential fire, brilliance, and sparkle in person, without having an ASET or Ideal scope image? After narrowing down my searches to the specs I want, a lot of the diamonds look very similar in the HD picture and video and appear as if they'd all have the same amount of fire, brilliance, and sparkle in person, yet I know this can't be true. What am I doing wrong here? Can I really gauge how well a diamond will respond to light in person only through HD pictures and videos or should I make an ASET image mandatory in my search for a diamond? I appreciate any help!

Natural Diamond on Platinum setting: these are the specifications I've been using (I also play around with these values to see what else is available)
Carat: 0.7-0.8
Color: D-H
Clarity: FL-VS2
Symmetry: Excellent
Polish: Excellent
Fluorescence: Faint to none
Table: 63-69%
Depth: 69-76%
Price: up to $4,000
Cut: Very Good - Ideal (although I know princess cut ratings don't have an objective standard and vary from company to company)
 
Whiteflash are AGS000 Super Ideal Princess cut stones with ASETS and Idealscopes to prove they have good performance.
What about them does not meet your standard so we know how to help?

Edit....
How can I determine how well the diamond responds to light, therefore helping determine its potential fire, brilliance, and sparkle in person, without having an ASET or Ideal scope image?
You said, "in person", are you planning on seeing some in-person? You can buy an Idealscope and an ASET tool and use
them yourself.
 
Last edited:
Hi Ty, thanks for replying!

I looked at examples online of what a super ideal princess cut ASET image should look like, and the ones currently on white flash don't seem to meet the standard of those examples. There's a considerable amount of green on a lot of them, asymmetrical blue portions, and some have black light leakage. Again, I'm still a very novice eye when it comes to this so I may have completely misinterpreted the images.

Regarding my "in-person" wordage, what I meant was I just want specs to match what the diamond will look like in a natural environment (on her finger day to day)
 
It’s very easy to get in “analysis paralysis” when diamond shopping. Especially as a guy. We equate best as a direct comparison to the love we have for our ladies. I’m not sure they see it the same way but I’ve been there and felt the pain.

Can you post a picture of the ASET reference image you are using to negate WF’s ACA princess cuts? Also a link to one or two of the ones you feel aren’t meeting your expectations?

I will go first. Here is an ASET reference chart for princess cuts. They behave and look different than rounds. The ideal image looks onpar to a WF ACA princess cut ASET I randomly selected.


AFDD71E1-B59F-4F22-9077-8D0C58893B86.jpeg

D786C0A2-DF6E-49A0-AD0C-BDA8783D7A2B.jpeg
 
Another important element for princess cuts is to determine the number of chevrons your eye and your soon-to-be eye appreciates.

Fewer chevrons have larger chunkier facets and a look I prefer. As you increase the chevrons, the facets get smaller and looks (to me) a little like crushed ice.

There isn’t a right or wrong here. But it’s important to know as your preference may lean you a certain direction. For instance if you prefer 2 chevrons your eyes may say an excellent cut is “better” than an ideal cut 4 chevron. While the cut may not necessarily be better, your eyes find the chevron pattern and reflection of light more pleasing.

Make sense?

43B0B5A5-1540-4DC0-8901-F8D7BCDA6B56.jpeg
91128844-FA23-48E3-9945-7E57083AF01B.jpeg
71C45AE7-3FEE-4978-89FB-58308B101AAB.jpeg
 
I’m tossing a lot of info at you but will mention one more item. BGD has a unique cushion cut. Granted, not a princess with hard square corners. The difference is they are cut using a round style H&A pattern.

I’m not sure where I stand on these. The things I like about cushions aren’t there on this version but the things I like about MRB’s are present.

More to my point if you have an expectation of round in a squarish shape this may be a good compromise. In addition to cut quality, each shape will behave differently to light.

 
I really like the WF princess cut Sledge found above. The video looks awesome. As long as you can return it, get one in your home so you can also see it in various light situations.
 
Zero doubts that Bryan and his team at WF would take care of them. It is not uncommon for one or more stones to be shipped in loose for evaluation and then all sent back with a decision on which to keep and mount.

Also, if you have a few choices they can pull the stones, line them up and take additional photos and videos to help provide warm fuzzies on what you are buying.

They are a solid trustworthy company. But obviously you need to love the diamond. Should you go that route, also remember they have one of the best lifetime upgrade policies with no hassles or red tape.


 
I also suffer from this “analysis paralysis” and I’ve learned to ignore it and let Whiteflash do the work for me. I would totally trust them to find perfection for you. I like the idea above of having someone there pull a few for you, take some comparison pics/vids, and go from there. Once the cut is this good, it’s about finding a pattern you like.

I’ll also second the exchange and upgrade benefits listed above. I just got earrings from them and they made it so easy to exchange pairs after I saw them, as I wasn’t sure on color and size until they were actually in my ears. Takes the fear out of online buying. Good luck and have fun picking!
 
Grab that 0.997 H ACA and call it done...that proverbial easy button just needs to be pressed to make it happen.
 
Grab that 0.997 H ACA and call it done...that proverbial easy button just needs to be pressed to make it happen.

Yes! :cool2:

I might add…if there was ever a case where a stone was cut for max beauty and not weight, this is the prime example. It would have been so easy to cheat it and hit or just slightly cross that magic 1 carat price premium mark.

A few hearts will break when it’s gone. Lots of folks tend to search for this little unicorn.
 
GET 3 FREE HCA RESULTS JOIN THE FORUM. ASK FOR HELP
Top