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round brilliant - help from experts please (ie Lorelei, Gary H - cut nut) as well as anyone with ins

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ctyc

Rough_Rock
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Hi all,

I just wanted to say that I have been reading a variety of different posts on this forum and have learned a lot about diamonds that I didn''t know before. I am looking at two round brilliants on Blue Nile. I can''t decide between the two and if anything, I am wondering why the larger of the two is so close in price to the smaller one when it is two color grades better. In any case, I am just wondering if these two diamonds are worth the price it is going for and if I should be suspicious about the larger of the two stones. I hope this isn''t all sounding too confusing.

Here are the specs for the two stones:

1.61 carat F/VS2 ($18,651)
depth % = 61.4%
table % = 57%
crown angle = 35%
pavilion = 40.6%

1.76 carat D/VS2 ($20,476)
depth % = 61.4%
table % = 56%
crown angle = 34.5%
pavilion = 40.8%

I have entered these specs in the Holloway cut adviser. They are both good. Blue Nile doesn''t provide any other test results that I have seen mentioned (Sarin, helium). Is it something that can be requested? Although, not that I even know how to read them. :) Bottom line, are these stones worth the price? They were signature ideal stones, which from what I have read adds to the price. I tried to skip the signature ideal vs ideal, etc and the stones with the best proportions still ended up being the signature ideal. Or rather, the ones that had a lower number on the Holloway cut adviser. I know there is a range for what is the best cut round brilliant, but what is the best within the range? Lower, higher, in the middle?

Thanks and I look forward to your thoughts.
 
Date: 1/2/2009 5:23:53 AM
Author:ctyc
Hi all,

I just wanted to say that I have been reading a variety of different posts on this forum and have learned a lot about diamonds that I didn't know before. I am looking at two round brilliants on Blue Nile. I can't decide between the two and if anything, I am wondering why the larger of the two is so close in price to the smaller one when it is two color grades better. In any case, I am just wondering if these two diamonds are worth the price it is going for and if I should be suspicious about the larger of the two stones. I hope this isn't all sounding too confusing.

Here are the specs for the two stones:

1.61 carat F/VS2 ($18,651)
depth % = 61.4%
table % = 57%
crown angle = 35%
pavilion = 40.6%

1.76 carat D/VS2 ($20,476)
depth % = 61.4%
table % = 56%
crown angle = 34.5%
pavilion = 40.8%

I have entered these specs in the Holloway cut adviser. They are both good. Blue Nile doesn't provide any other test results that I have seen mentioned (Sarin, helium). Is it something that can be requested? Although, not that I even know how to read them. :) Bottom line, are these stones worth the price? They were signature ideal stones, which from what I have read adds to the price. I tried to skip the signature ideal vs ideal, etc and the stones with the best proportions still ended up being the signature ideal. Or rather, the ones that had a lower number on the Holloway cut adviser. I know there is a range for what is the best cut round brilliant, but what is the best within the range? Lower, higher, in the middle?

Thanks and I look forward to your thoughts.
Welcome!

I am glad to help you if I can! Both of these are colourless stones, so the price jump from D to F will be less than D to G or H etc, however there is a considerable increase in size and a bit more info would be useful, do either of these diamonds have fluorescence? Are they both GIA graded and do you have the polish and symmetry, girdle thickness and diameter measurements for both please?

They both have excellent proportions and should be good performers from the info we have. BN don't offer tools such as Idealscope, Sarin etc unfortunately, so all we can go by are numbers. Within the HCA, it is used to eliminate lesser performers, the aim is to score 2 or below then evaluate from there, a lower score isn't considered better than a higher one etc. BN are a good vendor with a very reliable rep, plus they have a 30 day return policy so you can evaluate any diamond in person.
 
I just wanted to mention on reading your title that Garry is a renowned expert and I am just a consumer, but thank you sincerely for the compliment and I am delighted to be of help to you in any way I can!
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Thanks for the reply. And I do have the details.

For the 1.60, it is GIA certified:
Fluorescence - none
polish - excellent
symmetry - excellent
girdle - medium (faceted)
measurements - 7.49 x 7.52 x 4.61mm
Here is the link to this stone in case looking at the inclusions on the stone is helpful.
http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-1-carat-signature-ideal-cut-f-color-vs2-clarity_LD01464749?filter_id=0


For the 1.76, it is also GIA certified:
Fluorescence - faint
polish - excellent
symmetry - excellent
girdle - medium (faceted)
measurements - 7.75 x 7.80 x 4.77mm
Again, here is the link to this stone in case looking at the inclusions on the stone is helpful.
http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-1-carat-signature-ideal-cut-d-color-vs2-clarity_LD01364240?filter_id=0

Thanks again. I can not emphasize enough how helpful this forum has been and how much I appreciate the knowledge that I have gained.
 
Thanks for the correction. In any case, you and Garry along with others have provided a great deal of insightful knowledge. Thanks.
 
Thanks! And thanks for your kind words! Some of us have been doing this a long time and take pride in trying to help the experts provide an excellent resource for the new diamond buyer, so it is much appreciated to have positive feedback - thank YOU!! It is because of great posters like yourself that I spend so much time here and will be having my 4th PS anniversary in the not too distant future.....
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Both the diamonds look great, as to which to pick do you have a preference? If the D is in budget and you like the idea of the extra size then you could choose that one, if you want to get an expert opinion ( which is always prudent with a purchase of this magnitude) then you could get an independant appraisal done within the return period. Here is a tool you can use to find an appraiser in your area.

http://www.pricescope.com/appr_list.aspx

ETA - as Garry mentioned, if you could cover both and get them sent to an appraiser that would be ideal, then return the loser to BN for a refund.
 

Both seem to have passed the rejection tests - can you cover both to be sent to an appraiser - since BN are obstinant and wont give us ideal-scope pics.


return the looser for refund

 
Actually both are price significantly lower than what GOG has in their inventory, which is the opposite if what is the usual practice.

There is nothing wrong that I can see from the numbers, except for the inclusion plot on the D VS2 stone, 3 feathers are clustered together near the edge of the girdle, might be a structural concern there and a cause of the low price? Best to get it independently appraised.
 
Date: 1/2/2009 6:35:37 AM
Author: Stone-cold11
Actually both are price significantly lower than what GOG has in their inventory, which is the opposite if what is the usual practice.

There is nothing wrong that I can see from the numbers, except for the inclusion plot on the D VS2 stone, 3 feathers are clustered together near the edge of the girdle, might be a structural concern there and a cause of the low price? Best to get it independently appraised.
I highly doubt it in GIA VS2.
 
Thanks Lorelei and Garry for replying. I'm so excited!!!

Lorelei- Do you think you can post the link for finding appraisers again? It may be my browser, but I don't see it in the window.

Garry- Thanks for replying. My main concerns initially were: Do these two round brilliants warrant the price tag that is attached? And is it a concern that the larger stone having a better color grade is similar in price to the smaller stone? Is there something I am missing with the larger stone? I will definitely see if I can work on getting an appraisal though.

Thanks again.
 
Thanks Stone-cold11. I was wondering about the feathers as well. Next new task to tackle, finding a trusty appraiser.

Also, forgot to ask, what would I be asking the appraiser?
 
Date: 1/2/2009 6:41:54 AM
Author: ctyc
Thanks Stone-cold11. I was wondering about the feathers as well. Next new task to tackle, finding a trusty appraiser.
The general concensus here from the experts is that GIA VS2 feathers are not normally a problem otherwise they would not be given the VS2 grade ( nor are feathers automatically a problem with SI grades either) so I wouldn't worry too much, a good appraiser can put your mind at ease. Also any diamond can chip or break, even flawless ones.

This thread has some expert opinions on VS2 feather durability which might be useful.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/are-feathers-near-the-edge-dangerous.44773/

Sure, lets try that again....

https://www.pricescope.com/appr_list.aspx

And here is a page which guides you through the appraisal process.

https://www.pricescope.com/appraiser.asp
 
Thanks for the two links Lorelei. I have some more homework I need to get done now.
 
Date: 1/2/2009 6:52:58 AM
Author: ctyc
Thanks for the two links Lorelei. I have some more homework I need to get done now.
You are most welcome, if you need any more help just ask and keep us posted as to how you get on!
 
I will definitely be back if I have more questions so keep an eye on this thread. :) And I will let you know the outcome. It may be that I won''t even have the choice to get both. That would depend on the guy (my bf) who''s going to buy it. I just got lucky enough to choose it after my bf was scared half to death (regarding all the things you need to know about a diamond) by my brother when he bought his engagement ring. :) From everything I have read so far, it seems that a color grade F and clarity grade VS2 was the best balance without as large a price tag, but yet still getting a decent sized great stone. Now this cut business is what''s making the whole process a bit more difficult.
 
Date: 1/2/2009 7:08:51 AM
Author: ctyc
I will definitely be back if I have more questions so keep an eye on this thread. :) And I will let you know the outcome. It may be that I won't even have the choice to get both. That would depend on the guy (my bf) who's going to buy it. I just got lucky enough to choose it after my bf was scared half to death (regarding all the things you need to know about a diamond) by my brother when he bought his engagement ring. :) From everything I have read so far, it seems that a color grade F and clarity grade VS2 was the best balance without as large a price tag, but yet still getting a decent sized great stone. Now this cut business is what's making the whole process a bit more difficult.
I will keep an eye out for sure! If your BF is concerned and feeling a bit overwhelmed, he can always post here too if that would help? F VS is a good balance certainly, F or G VS is a sweet spot for some, as to the cut, well it seems you have definitely done some homework and read up on how important cut quality is and come up with two great rocks so I am sure you will do just fine! The diamonds you selected have great proportions so you are definitely on the right track.
 
I found another stone and it has the lowest HCA score I have seen thus far. Is that indicative of anything? Or are they all the same as long as the score is lower than 1.3 (something around there)?

1.64 carat F/VVS1
symmetry - EX
polish - EX
depth% = 60.4%
table% = 56%
crown% = 34%
pavilion%= 40.6%

This one is obviously more expensive than the other two listed above. And I don't know how reliable a GCAL report is, but it has the least amount of black spots in the optical brilliance analysis compared to the GCAL report of a lot of other diamonds I have looked at.

P.S. I said I'd keep you posted Lorelei. This feels like a never ending process. If you search long and hard enough, something else always pops up. (EEKS!)
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Date: 1/3/2009 2:42:23 AM
Author: ctyc
I found another stone and it has the lowest HCA score I have seen thus far. Is that indicative of anything? Or are they all the same as long as the score is lower than 1.3 (something around there)?

1.64 carat F/VVS1
symmetry - EX
polish - EX
depth% = 60.4%
table% = 56%
crown% = 34%
pavilion%= 40.6%

This one is obviously more expensive than the other two listed above. And I don't know how reliable a GCAL report is, but it has the least amount of black spots in the optical brilliance analysis compared to the GCAL report of a lot of other diamonds I have looked at.

P.S. I said I'd keep you posted Lorelei. This feels like a never ending process. If you search long and hard enough, something else always pops up. (EEKS!)
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Good morning!

With the HCA, the aim is to score 2 or below then evaluate from there with Idealscope etc, basically a lower score isn't better than a higher one of 2 or under - more diamonds of 2 and below ' pass' pending further evaluation.

The above could be a lovely diamond, I would really like an Idealscope for this one but no can do from BN....GCAL is considered very reputable, I believe it is associated with a highly regarded NY appraiser, but I don't know how their cut grading compares with AGS for example....Do you have the link for the diamond? Also unless you would rather have VVS, VS will be eyeclean in the majority of cases and be cheaper usually.
 
Thanks for getting back so quickly Lorelei. I have to be honest, I am a bit of a perfectionist and before I started reading about imperfections, I didn't really mind them as much. But the more I read about it, the more I didn't know if I really wanted it present. I am the shopper who insists on getting a brand new item from the back that hasn't been man-handled by all the other shoppers. And I also check all the seams before I decide which one (of the same one item) to buy. That said, I am a bit anal. :) The idea of feathers being cracks in the diamond, while probably not much of an issue structurally, seem like something I'd rather not have present. The 1.60 carat diamond above (the first one listed on the original post) has a natural indent and it looks like it's on the top (don't know what the proper name would be) from the diagram. So that kind of worried me. Here is the link for the 3rd diamond I listed. I am assuming that even if I get only one diamond, I should still get it appraised before deciding to keep it. Is it not a good idea to decide whether a diamond is a keeper or not without an idealscope? Darn those BN people.

Here is the link to the latest diamond:
http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-1-carat-signature-ideal-cut-f-color-vvs1-clarity_LD01277663?filter_id=0
 
Date: 1/3/2009 5:16:37 AM
Author: ctyc
Thanks for getting back so quickly Lorelei. I have to be honest, I am a bit of a perfectionist and before I started reading about imperfections, I didn't really mind them as much. But the more I read about it, the more I didn't know if I really wanted it present. I am the shopper who insists on getting a brand new item from the back that hasn't been man-handled by all the other shoppers. And I also check all the seams before I decide which one (of the same one item) to buy. That said, do I am a bit anal. :) The idea of feathers being cracks in the diamond, while probably not much of an issue structurally, seem like something I'd rather not have present. The 1.60 carat diamond above (the first one listed on the original post) has a natural indent and it looks like it's on the top (don't know what the proper name would be) from the diagram. So that kind of worried me. Here is the link for the 3rd diamond I listed. I am assuming that even if I get only one diamond, I should still get it appraised before deciding to keep it. Is it not a good idea to decide whether a diamond is a keeper or not without an idealscope? Darn those BN people.

Here is the link to the latest diamond:
http://www.bluenile.com/round-diamond-1-carat-signature-ideal-cut-f-color-vvs1-clarity_LD01277663?filter_id=0
You are most welcome!

Then in that case VVS might be a good fit for you, totally understandable if you would rather have very high clarity! The reason I mentioned an Idealscope for this diamond is that it is borderline shallow with the angles at 34/40.6, so an Idealscope would be useful in this case - however it could be perfectly fine and no issue or problem at all with the diamond! BN do have a 30 day return policy so you have plenty of time to inspect the diamond, plus an appraisal is always a good idea with a purchase of this magnitude, so that would give you an expert impartial opinion.

Here is an appraiser list so you can find one in your area.

https://www.pricescope.com/appr_list.aspx
 
What would be the difference between the optical brilliance test result shown in the GCAL report versus an idealscope? Also, I understand what you mean by the angles being a bit shallow. I am still trying to get a good grasp of what angles are the best to aim for. Do you think you can give me a rough range to aim for? Thanks a bunch.
 
Date: 1/3/2009 5:30:13 AM
Author: ctyc
What would be the difference between the optical brilliance test result shown in the GCAL report versus an idealscope? Also, I understand what you mean by the angles being a bit shallow. I am still trying to get a good grasp of what angles are the best to aim for. Do you think you can give me a rough range to aim for? Thanks a bunch.





I don't know much about how GCAL analyze cut, and I am not sure how to properly interpret their optical symmetry analysis, the photomicrograph used appears to be a magnified photograph which might be useful for showing inclusions but I doubt it has value for grading cut quality. I am used to Idealscope so I am not that familiar with how GCAL judge cut and their OSA, but I will try and find some more info.

Here you go - http://www.bluenile.com/gcal-diamond-report

As to a range of proportions - no problem, here are some you can use as a guide to find a well cut diamond. As you can see, the diamond above falls within the shallower end as you already know, hence the advice to get an IS which we can't in this case.

depth - 60 - 62% - although my personal preference is to allow up to 62.4%
table - 54- 57%
crown angle - 34- 35 degrees
pavilion angle - 40.6- 41 degrees
girdle - avoid extremes, look for thin to slightly thick, thin to medium etc
polish and symmetry - very good and above





note - with crown and pavilion angles at the shallower ends ( CA 34- PA 40.6) and steeper ( CA 35- PA 41) check to make sure these angles complement in that particular diamond - eyeballs, Idealscope, trusted vendor input - check as appropriate.

And from expert John Pollard.

"As the above implies, configurations depend on each other. A little give here can still work with a little take there.






With that said, here's a "Cliff's Notes" for staying near Tolkowsky/ideal angles with GIA reports (their numbers are rounded): A crown angle of 34.0, 34.5 or 35.0 is usually safe with a 40.8 pavilion angle. If pavilion angle = 40.6 lean toward a 34.5-35.0 crown. If pavilion angle = 41 lean toward a 34.0-34.5 crown.








GIA "EX" in cut is great at its heart, but it ranges a bit wider than some people prefer, particularly in deep combinations (pavilion > 41 with crown > 35)."

 
Date: 1/3/2009 5:47:03 AM
Author: Lorelei
Date: 1/3/2009 5:30:13 AM

Author: ctyc

What would be the difference between the optical brilliance test result shown in the GCAL report versus an idealscope? Also, I understand what you mean by the angles being a bit shallow. I am still trying to get a good grasp of what angles are the best to aim for. Do you think you can give me a rough range to aim for? Thanks a bunch.




I don't know much about how GCAL analyze cut, except that the photomicrograph used appears to be a magnified photograph which might be useful for showing inclusions but I don't know if it has value for grading cut quality, I am used to Idealscope so don't know what else GCAL base their grading on, I will try and find some more info.


As to a range of proportions - no problem, here are some you can use as a guide to find a well cut diamond. As you can see, the diamond above falls within the shallower end as you already know, hence the advice to get an IS which we can't in this case.


depth - 60 - 62% - although my personal preference is to allow up to 62.4%

table - 54- 57%

crown angle - 34- 35 degrees

pavilion angle - 40.6- 41 degrees

girdle - avoid extremes, look for thin to slightly thick, thin to medium etc

polish and symmetry - very good and above



note - with crown and pavilion angles at the shallower ends ( CA 34- PA 40.6) and steeper ( CA 35- PA 41) check to make sure these angles complement in that particular diamond - eyeballs, Idealscope, trusted vendor input - check as appropriate.


And from expert John Pollard.


'As the above implies, configurations depend on each other. A little give here can still work with a little take there.




With that said, here's a 'Cliff's Notes' for staying near Tolkowsky/ideal angles with GIA reports (their numbers are rounded): A crown angle of 34.0, 34.5 or 35.0 is usually safe with a 40.8 pavilion angle. If pavilion angle = 40.6 lean toward a 34.5-35.0 crown. If pavilion angle = 41 lean toward a 34.0-34.5 crown.






GIA 'EX' in cut is great at its heart, but it ranges a bit wider than some people prefer, particularly in deep combinations (pavilion > 41 with crown > 35).'




Wow!!! Thanks a ton!!! That was extremely helpful. I have to be honest, as interesting as learning about diamonds has been, it is kind of stressful. There really is truth to the saying, "Ignorance is bliss." *sigh*

I hope you don't mind, but I just have a couple more questions for you (for the moment). :) Until I come up with more of course, and it does seem never ending. :) I read the link for what to ask the appraiser. And the one question I had was "defining value" with the appraiser at the beginning. How would one do that? I am having a hard time trying to come up with a definition. Second, I am looking at random diamonds on Whiteflash, since they have the idealscope image and I don't know what I am looking for in an idealscope image. Of course, when I get the appraisal, I will definitely post the idealscope image. In the meantime, just out of curiosity, other than not wanting to see lots of white, what are we looking for? Again, thanks for your endless patience and help. You're awesome!!!
 
Date: 1/3/2009 6:02:35 AM
Author: ctyc









Date: 1/3/2009 5:47:03 AM
Author: Lorelei











Wow!!! Thanks a ton!!! That was extremely helpful. I have to be honest, as interesting as learning about diamonds has been, it is kind of stressful. There really is truth to the saying, 'Ignorance is bliss.' *sigh*

I hope you don't mind, but I just have a couple more questions for you (for the moment). :) Until I come up with more of course, and it does seem never ending. :) I read the link for what to ask the appraiser. And the one question I had was 'defining value' with the appraiser at the beginning. How would one do that? I am having a hard time trying to come up with a definition. Second, I am looking at random diamonds on Whiteflash, since they have the idealscope image and I don't know what I am looking for in an idealscope image. Of course, when I get the appraisal, I will definitely post the idealscope image. In the meantime, just out of curiosity, other than not wanting to see lots of white, what are we looking for? Again, thanks for you endless patience and help. You're awesome!!!
You are too kind and I am so glad to be of help!!

With the appraisal, what you are basically looking for most likely, is that you are paying a reasonable price for the diamond according to the selling price of comparable diamonds, an appraiser can tell you whether the price is fair. The appraiser can verify the report is the correct one for that particular diamond, and also whether he or she agrees that the colour and clarity are as stated on the report. Also you could ask the appraiser to give you a value for insurance purposes. Some appraisals which are included with the purchase ( don't know if this is the case with BN) can be inflated due to what is called the ' feelgood' factor. This doesn't always reflect the true value of the diamond, and should you pay out premiums on this value you probably wouldn't get this back should you have to claim for loss etc. So an appraiser can give you a realistic amount to insure for. Also they can give you a very detailed report on your diamond should you wish, so should you ever have to claim, you can prove that you had a diamond of excellent cut quality and wish to replace it with a diamond of similarly excellent cut.

Idealscope, here are two good pages which will help there! https://www.pricescope.com/idealscope_indx.asp

http://www.ideal-scope.com/using_reference_chart.asp

Basically as you can see from the IS images, we are looking for light leakage which means that the diamond isn't returning all the available light running through it back to our eyes as ' sparkle.' You can see leakage as paler patches on the images. Now some diamonds have controlled leakage which you can see around the edges as little white areas, you see this frequently with some of WF's diamonds. This isn't to be confused with detrimental leakage as controlled leakage can aid contrast and increase the desirable visual properties of a diamond in some cases. But the images are easy to read for the most part, and you will soon see how to tell a good IS image from a bad one. However there are times when you might see a small amount of leakage on an IS, which might not be visible to the human eye and therefore is not an issue. Then if you are working with a trusted vendor, he or she will let you know whether the diamond is worth consideration and if the leakage on the IS has any negative effect on the diamond or not.
 
Thanks a bunch Lorelei!!! Again, I can''t tell you how much I appreciate all this. And as I said before, keep an eye out and I''ll definitely keep you posted. :)
 
Date: 1/3/2009 6:23:41 AM
Author: ctyc
Thanks a bunch Lorelei!!! Again, I can''t tell you how much I appreciate all this. And as I said before, keep an eye out and I''ll definitely keep you posted. :)
You are most welcome and I will continue to keep an eye out for you!
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I will stay out of the discussion of these particular stones, since Lorelei the great has that covered, but I wanted to suggest that if you are looking at a particular stone you should have the vendor put it on hold prior to posting it here. We''ve seen quite a bit of "diamond poaching" at some pointx - someone will post a diamond they are looking at and next thing they know it is gone.

Good luck with your search!
 
Date: 1/3/2009 12:42:21 PM
Author: EricaR
I will stay out of the discussion of these particular stones, since Lorelei the great has that covered, but I wanted to suggest that if you are looking at a particular stone you should have the vendor put it on hold prior to posting it here. We've seen quite a bit of 'diamond poaching' at some pointx - someone will post a diamond they are looking at and next thing they know it is gone.


Good luck with your search!


Thanks for the tip Erica. Would the vendor hold multiple diamonds though? And I actually just found a fourth, but I am still trying to decide if it's worth looking further into. :) And what a bummer this "diamond poaching" business.

Please feel free to jump in any time. I appreciate any input that anyone has to offer. Lorelei has just been kind enough to let me continuously bother her. And being the wealth of knowledge that she is, I couldn't help myself.
 
Date: 1/3/2009 4:02:28 PM
Author: ctyc

Date: 1/3/2009 12:42:21 PM
Author: EricaR
I will stay out of the discussion of these particular stones, since Lorelei the great has that covered, but I wanted to suggest that if you are looking at a particular stone you should have the vendor put it on hold prior to posting it here. We''ve seen quite a bit of ''diamond poaching'' at some pointx - someone will post a diamond they are looking at and next thing they know it is gone.


Good luck with your search!


Thanks for the tip Erica. Please feel free to jump in any time. I appreciate any input that anyone has to offer. Lorelei has just been kind enough to let me continuously bother her.
LOL! No worries and Miss Erica you are more than welcome to chime in m'' dear!!!
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So I''ve read a bunch about crystals and feathers and needles and indented naturals. All of those are different types of inclusions. Here is the thing though, which is worse to have? I don''t know if it is worse to have a few feathers on the edges of your diamond or to have a crystal and a cloud within. I know that the feathers won''t affect the diamond structurally, but I don''t know if it''s worse to have essentially fissures in your diamond or a crystal within. Hope this doesn''t sound silly.
 
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