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Sapphire inclusions — how to tell which ones are bad?

brightspark

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 19, 2019
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8
Hi all,

I’m new to sapphires and looking for some advice. I’ve been captivated by an estate piece that is heavily included. It’s a 5ct oval cut (native), WG setting & platinum band. I adore the colour and the ribbons moving through it. It’s like looking into the ocean.

After doing some reading in this forum, I’m now concerned about the risks associated with resetting. I had thought I might like to have it recut one day and wonder if these inclusions would render that possibility (and resetting) a non-starter.

I’ve attached some pics here, if folks wouldn’t mind taking a look. I don’t know how to tell which inclusions are problematic. Guesses as to the value of the stone would also be appreciated.

Warm thanks in advance =)2

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I guess I would call it dark teal. Why don’t you just get a new stone and remake the ring?
 
I guess I would call it dark teal. Why don’t you just get a new stone and remake the ring?

@whitewave It’s definitely got some inky-teal tones. In other light it looks more dark Royal/navy blue. Another reason I was drawn to it.

The setting isn’t that remarkable to me, I bought it for the stone. Based on your answer can I assume that it has no real value, and/or that resetting wouldn’t be possible?
 

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Presuming it’s natural, they would be veil inclusions. The colour dark blue/ green indicates to me that it’s probably an Australian sapphire.
Veil inclusions can cause problems when recutting, so a cutter would need to view the sapphire in person to confirm if it is or isn’t a contender for a recut.
why would you be wanting to recut? Recutting costs money and makes it smaller so unless there is some other benefit that outweighs the loss in size, you wouldn’t recut it.
In terms of the value of sapphires, it depends on a number of factors including colour, clarity, treatments, carat weight, quality of cutting and origin.
The value of this sapphire is impacted by it being very dark and having no vividness to offset , the green undertone is also considered unfavourable by some.
The sapphire is heavily included, appearing more translucent than transparent, that is a negative in terms of desirability/ $$.
Heated or not heated? You need a loupe and some knowledge to identify or a gemologist to look at it. Unheated is generally worth more. Identifying Treatments usually requires more sophisticated equipment ie a lab certificate.
I would say it’s not really a commercially valuable sapphire, while it has interesting inclusions and is a decent size, the colour, tone and clarity is low.
 
I'm so happy you found a stone that you love! I'm also a fan of some sapphire inclusions. They can create such wonderful character :)

As to your stone, it's a little tough to judge the inclusions, as the stone is darker. Resetting the stone as-is, would certainly have some risks associated with it (as all setting does), but I suspect a careful jeweler would be able to do it reasonably well. Perhaps just being careful of pressure, heat, and where specific prongs went.

As to recutting it, that would likely be riskier. And as someone said, you may want to have a lapidary evaluate it accordingly. If I may ask though, what would be your goal for recutting?
 
@Bron357 Thank you for these considerations, such a lot to keep in mind. It is a natural stone and the seller believes it has likely been heat treated. Though, as you say, further investigation would be necessary to know for sure.

It’s interestingthere seems to be more nuance with colored stones in the sense that aesthetic value and commercial value can be less cut and dry than diamonds.

@JackTrick This is all great to know, thank you. This is my first colored stone purchase so it’s all new! I feel like I’m weighing my appreciation against its appraised value so I keep second guessing myself, “overpaying” for something that doesn’t have “value” beyond the fact that I think it’s interesting. It’s a weird shift in mindset.

As for recutting, I’ve seen so many impressive before/afters of native cuts so I just wanted to keep my options open, more than anything. It does have a bit of a window but as the stone is so dark it isn’t that big a deal currently.
 
I do not think it is likely to be very valuable, but as long as you love it that's what matters.
 
@whitewave It’s definitely got some inky-teal tones. In other light it looks more dark Royal/navy blue. Another reason I was drawn to it.

The setting isn’t that remarkable to me, I bought it for the stone. Based on your answer can I assume that it has no real value, and/or that resetting wouldn’t be possible?

Oh, sorry, no I wasn’t commenting on value, as I honestly have no idea. It just seemed since its so included and a not trade ideal color that if you bought a new stone, you could find a less included stone and know what you have, etc.

But since I reread and see it’s this stone you fell in love with, idk what to tell you about recutting and resetting— you will definitely need to consult with someone about that.
 
@lovedogs and @whitewave and all, thank you for your advice and insight

I ended up returning it. I didn’t love it-love it, so much as I found it really interesting looking. And although the seller maintains it’s a natural stone, the more I looked at it, some of the inclusions make me wonder if wasn’t actually composite.

Feeling very grateful that my first lesson in buying coloured gemstones ended up not costing a pretty penny.

Happy new year, all! =)2
 
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